[ISSAE90]

I'm a total newbie when it comes to car stuff so bear with me as I am not mechanically inclined whatsoever lol. So I have a 2008 e90 335i that has been sitting for about a year or so, it used to be my daily driver but I let it sit cause I ended up getting another car. After trying to start it after all this time it wouldn't start/crank and all the lights were dead etc so I assumed that the battery was dead and all it needed was a jump. I connected the jump box and all the lights turned on and when I pushed the ignition it would just crank and wouldn't start. I ended up checking the battery and noticed that the whole battery tray had water in it and was about halfway up the battery, so I took the battery out and drained the water, cleaned it all out, and let it dry overnight while keep the battery on a charger. Next day I checked the battery and noticed that it didn't charge at all so I brought the battery to oreillys and luckily it was still under warranty and they swapped it out. Dropped that battery back in and plugged terminals back and all the lights turned on etc, tried starting the car again and same thing, cranks but won't start. Checked to see if the fuel pump kicks on and don't hear anything after taking off the back seat and the plate that covers the fuel pump so I'm assuming the fuel pump is dead and I should go about replacing that or are there other options before I dish out money and buy another fuel pump? Thank you in advance!

[ptpending]

there is a IBS sensor which is attached to negative battery connector
if it was water damaged, then you need to replace it to correct charge the battery by car
for the temporary start, you need simply disconnect blue connector (BSD bus) from it

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by ISSAE90

I'm a total newbie... 2008 e90 335i that has been sitting for about a year... checking the battery and noticed that the whole battery tray had water in it and was about halfway up the battery... [NEW] battery back in and plugged terminals back and all the lights turned on etc, tried starting the car again and same thing, cranks but won't start. Checked to see if the fuel pump kicks on and don't hear anything after taking off the back seat and the plate that covers the fuel pump [If you have the tank OPEN, put cover back ON. Fuel Vapor is EXPLOSIVE and any spark in car can DETONATE & BURN YOU] ...

Welcome to the Forum!
We ALL had to start SOMEWHERE, so IF you want to learn/ get help on HOW to diagnose an issue, this Forum can HELP. Minimum Tool Requirement, $7 Multimeter (HFT) or ~ $10 Amazon:
https://www.harborfreight.com/electr...ter-59434.html

If you could borrow a Scan Tool from a friend, to Read Fault Codes, that would be helpful & speed the process. If you want to get a "P-code Reader" that will read Engine Module Fault Codes on ANY car sold in US since 1996, here is a $30 Example:
https://www.amazon.com/Autel-AutoLin...zcF9hdGY&psc=1

First thing to test is whether or not the DME Main Relay is being activated when Ignition is ON & Instrument Cluster lights up (Press START button w/o pressing Brake/Clutch). We can show you HOW to do that test if you have either Multimeter or Scan Tool (easier).

A Scan Tool will NOT tell you exactly WHAT to fix or replace, but it offers CLUES that someone with experience (Other Forum Members ;-) can suggest what to test NEXT & HOW.

When you post back, please answer the following:
1) Last-7 Characters of vehicle VIN;
2) IF you have Multimeter (Minimum Requirement);
3) Make/Model of any Scan Tool or Diagnostic Software (INPA/ISTA) available; NOT Mandatory, but helpful;
4) Fault Codes in DME (Engine Control Module) Fault Memory.
George

[noidex]

For the error codes I'd recommend MHD with a cheap cable, just what I'd get.