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      02-09-2010, 07:59 AM   #1
pacz
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Problems on a new car :/

Hey guys

This is a repost, i posted it in the international section aswell but i just want to get some feedback from you local guys as you are familiar with our climate and petrol etc..

This was posted by someone else a while ago and I had a similar problem:

"Hey, I was wondering if anyone else has experienced going into limp mode or a stutter whenever you redline.
It's not done intentionally but has happened a couple times where I was shifting at around 6000rpm and "accidentally" ended up at the redline in second and when I shifted to third, it would feel not only underpowered but also it would have a stutter or vibration that felt like I was riding over jagged rocks even though I was on a smooth road (Highway surface)
I have to turn off the vehicle, then on, in order to correct the problem.
I wanna guess it retards the cylinders but.. I don't know much about engines and whatnot."

And this happened to me:

This also just happened to me today, is this just a safety feature or is it a bad thing? I thought it might be due to hot weather since it is 30 degrees celcius today..? Just to add, I was at WOT but not redline in 3rd gear and I felt a little stutter at about 5000rpm, so I backed off, then same symptoms as the first poster in all gears till I restarted my car...
I have already had my boost pipes by the turbo replaced and my car only has 3200km on it, so im just a little worried...

Thanks
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      02-10-2010, 12:33 PM   #2
gmza
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Rev limiter will kick in, however, you should not go into limp mode unless you drop a gear or do something that pushes the revs way too high too quickly.

The stutter you're getting at ~5000rpm sounds like detonation (knock), which is a bad situation. This usually results from a bad air-fuel mixture and the engine management should retard timing to try and prevent it. If the knock sensor detects detonation, your engine may go into limp mode.

The most common cause for this on a turbocharged car is either a boost leak (hence replacing the hoses) or a lousy 'chip' (after-market tuning). If you take the car in to a stealer, they can read the fault codes. You'll probably see stuff relating to the VANOS system.

Simply replacing hoses is not the way to deal with a boost leak. Trust me - I've owned an 11-year-old Audi RS2 where the plastic hoses were tired through years of hot SA summers taking their toll on plastic and 1.4 bar of boost. (The 135i, by comparison, has less than half of that.) There are usually many hoses and many places that pressure can leak. Air can also be sucked in on the cold (intake) side which is even more difficult to detect as the car will still boost strong, just with a bit more lag.

It is also possible that you're experiencing the first signs of HPFP failure. Sadly, this is commonplace on the N54 engine (135i/335i). Look out for the other tell-tale sign, like long cranking (taking more than a couple of seconds for the engine to start from cold).

Also, check the obvious: where are you filling up with fuel? Try use the same petrol station and make sure it is reliable. You'd be surprised how much bad fuel is being sold ( under all brands) so it's more important to stick to a trusted filling station.

The problem here is that you don't have a whole lot to work with, so, if you can replicate the problem, replicate it and drive straight to a dealer and make them pull the fault code history for you and print it out. At least then you know where to start.

If there is anything relating to the high pressure fuel system, get the HPFP replaced. If you're getting boost pressure or air-fuel mixture fault codes, then you need to look for boost pressure leaks.

For boost, drive at about 3/4 throttle with the windows down and listen for whistling. Note, a certain amount of air has to be let out the wastegate, but this shouldn't produce a high-pitched whistle like a leak. Also, check if you're experiencing bad turbo lag. Go into 4th gear at relatively low speed and then floor the throttle. Does it feel asthmatic or does is pick up revs like it should?

What is your average fuel consumption like?

If there is a boost issue (which you need to diagnose first scientifically), don't even bother with the dealer. With my RS2 I tried four different Audi dealers and spent thousands of rands for them to talk bull before a friend located it for me using the simple trick of holding a cigarette above the various hoses and watching which way the smoke blew...
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      02-10-2010, 12:38 PM   #3
gmza
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Actually, the more I read this, and given that it is such a new car, the more I'm convinced it's the High Pressure Fuel Pump. If you've got fault codes 29F2 and/or 29DC, get the HPFP replaced immediately.
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      02-10-2010, 03:15 PM   #4
pacz
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Thank you for you response! Ok i've got my own bt cable so I ran some tests and got this:

29CE:
29CE misfirings, cylinder 2
Error will cause a warning light
Error is not currently present

Event 1
Odometer 3264km 2028miles
engine temperature 99.75 degrees celsius
load value for misfiring detection 98.05%
Engine speed 3328rpm
Lambda integrator group 1 33.59%

So it wasn't as high as 5000rpm, oops Went past bmw today and they told me it sounds like bad petrol, and come to think about it, it could be, that tank was the first that was not filled up at one of my regular filling stations... Also I was on reserve tank , don't know if that makes a difference..? The 135i is the only car I have ever had problems with regarding fuel (if that is the problem). I have done about 100km since then and it all seems fine.. I hope it all holds together!

I'm running stock at the moment and have a jb3 ready and waiting to be installed but these issues have been postponing that! Anyone have experience with it here in jhb?

Oh and my fuel consumption is terrible, between 14 and 16 for city driving and drops to about 12.5 on the highway, sometimes I only get 260-280km on a tank which is quite ridiculous, is this normal? and no its not my right foot as I have been monitoring the consumption lately so have been easy on the right pedal....

Last edited by pacz; 02-10-2010 at 03:21 PM.
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      02-11-2010, 01:25 AM   #5
ghusheshe
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Thanks for the feedback. Where did you get your BT cable? I would love some of those. As for the fuel, I am now very specific about what I put in, and make sure its 95 unleaded. As for the consumption, your car is still new, around 10K you should see that drop. Im doing around 10.8 – 11.5 combined on mine and already on 42k after 2 and half years. Enjoy
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      02-11-2010, 06:29 PM   #6
gmza
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These cars are very sensitive to fuel (the HPFP in particular), but so are many others on the market. Similar issues (although not as common) with Mercs. Also, with the trend towards petrol direct injection engines, fuel quality is more critical then it ever was. BMW delayed the non-turbo direct-injection engines from the local 1- and 3-series line-up for quite some time as a result of fuel quality concerns, giving us the old engines while europe got the new ones. VW/Audi were probably first with DI in SA, but even they delayed the FSI models in SA versus Europe.

I had terrible fuel consumption issues with my 135i until I changed my regular filling station. Initially, crappy fuel and low mileage was causing me to burn around 18l to 20l per 100km. Okay, aggressive driving played a part, but my driving style hasn't really changed and I'm now getting ~12.5l on a mix of city freeway driving.

Your consumption is 100% normal (actually, I think it is pretty good) for the car's mileage and will improve significantly from around 5k to 10k. But keep to your trusted filling station!

I'd also be interested in finding out where you got the cable and software? Very useful indeed. It still boggles my mind that these cars don't let you view the codes through the trip computer (or iDrive).
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      02-12-2010, 02:48 AM   #7
aacabriolet
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Hey gmza

where do you fill up?

I fill up at shell with 95 only..

But my consumption is crap..yeah I drive it aggressively but daaaammmn...15.4l/100 on a 120i convertible....

Maybe I should try BP or Sasol or somewhere?
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      02-12-2010, 06:35 PM   #8
Shifty
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I'm only stick to BP, and 90% of the time it is one near my house. The busier the station, the better!

I'm currently on 14.4, not bad since I have a very heavy foot! It doesnt feel right if its not WOT!
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      02-12-2010, 07:12 PM   #9
aacabriolet
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Well if you (3.0l) driving WOT the whole time like me (2.0l), and you're getting better consumption than me, then somethings up...P

Lemme try BP out..
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      02-13-2010, 05:08 AM   #10
pacz
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I got my cable from www.burgertuning.com, it came bundled with my chip. I bought it when I was in the States on holiday so I didn't have to pay high shipping costs.. I only fill up with shell or sasol 95 unleaded, always have.
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      02-14-2010, 07:04 AM   #11
gmza
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I mostly fill up at the Caltex next the MTN Morningside although with the 135i's thirst and tiny tank, I sometimes refuel wherever is closest to the range computer reading "---". ;-)

I don't believe it is the brand. There is one Shell filling station I won't go near again (it used to be my regular filling station when I had issues) and another Shell less than 1km away from it which I've had no problems with.
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