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      03-22-2010, 09:17 PM   #23
Cuz5150
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I have a question regarding the N54 oil filter. When replacing it, does it matter what way the filter sits in the housing? Part #'s facing down(towards the engine) or Part# facing up(under the screw cover)?
I'll be doing my first oil change soon............

Thanks
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      03-23-2010, 08:46 PM   #24
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      04-01-2010, 06:19 PM   #25
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I thought I would post this here... bc if JimD's wonderfull DIY oil change. When I first started searching for a DIY oil change... JimD's was the only one I found. So I am posting my 135i DIY oil change pics here. I hope you don't mind JimD.

I don't think I need to write much... I will just post the pics with some helpfull hints.

under the hood of a 135i...


Once the car is jacked up safely and you placed your saftey jack stands... open the access pannel with a flat blade screw driver. You turn the screw 180' to open it.




135i oil drain plug/bolt. The oil will shoot out towards the passenger side of the car.


I used a 17mm 1/2 drive ratchet to remove the drain plug. It should take too much to crack it open. When reinstalling the drain bolt I don't go nuts. 30Nm should be fine. The last thing you want is to strip the drain pan threads.


Watch out! Hot oil is shooting out!


Always replace the coper o-ring on the drain bolt. Make sure the old one doesn't stick onto the oil pan!




Remove the old cartridge filter element - after the oil has drained.


I let the olf oil filter sit like this for a few minutes to let the excess oil drain away - before I remove the cartridge.




Always replace the small and large O-rings on the filter housing. You can use a pick tool to remove the O-rings, but ALWAYS install new O-rings by hand. So as not to damage the new O-rings. Put some oil on the the O-rings too! So they do not bind going back on.


I like to suck out any left over oil inside of the oil filter housing. Before.


And... after!


New filter going on...


I use some Brake kleen to wash away any spilt old oil from around the filter housing area.


Add seven quarts of your favorite motor oil(as long as its BMW LL1 (long Life 1) specs) and you are done!


Hope you enhoyed my photos.

bye,
David

Last edited by Dackelone; 04-02-2010 at 04:44 AM.
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      04-01-2010, 09:40 PM   #26
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Really excellent shots David! I did this myself last weekend. As another poster suggested, I stuck the access plate up in the hole in the underbody pan to shunt the oil down into the pan. Unfortunately, I was too retarded to stick rags on either side of it, so the oil still ran into the pan and made a mess; it dripped off the bottom for a couple of days. I will clean it when I pull the pan off to do the CDV in a couple weeks and the car is on a lift. For now I'll deal with the drips.

I too only added 6 quarts when refilling and the electrodipstick is showing it to be filled to the max. No doubt the extra quart is stuck in the cooler and lines, or didn't drain because of the angle the car was sitting at due to being jacked up.

One thing I would add is that after fitting the O-rings onto the filter element housing, I would smear them with oil to make sure they don't get pinched when you are torquing the cap down.

All in all an unpleasant experience, but it needed done...

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      04-02-2010, 04:51 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ianc View Post
Really excellent shots David! I did this myself last weekend. As another poster suggested, I stuck the access plate up in the hole in the underbody pan to shunt the oil down into the pan. Unfortunately, I was too retarded to stick rags on either side of it, so the oil still ran into the pan and made a mess; it dripped off the bottom for a couple of days. I will clean it when I pull the pan off to do the CDV in a couple weeks and the car is on a lift. For now I'll deal with the drips. ianc
Well... to be honest in my quest to document this oil change... I ended up making quite a mess too! :P

I think next time I will use more rags jammed up in the belly pan area.

Good point on putting some oil on the new O-rings. I put that into my post, just now. I always do that too - its just I forgot to write that in my post.

Also... I would suggest to get the biggest oil catch pan you can buy. Those small 12 inch dia pans will do.... but the oil almost overflows that catch pan. I will buy one of those 18inch dia oil catch pans soon.

bye,
David
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      04-05-2010, 11:36 AM   #28
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Is there any advantage / disadvantage to using BMW oil vs. Mobil 1 / etc during break-in? I am planning on changing my oil and sending off for to Blackstone for analysis at around 1200 miles, but not sure what to fill her back up with.
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      04-05-2010, 02:15 PM   #29
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As an update on the amount of oil added:

I checked and rechecked the oil level using the electrodipstick and found that it always registered full after adding 6 quarts. I would do this on my way to and from my carpool pickup point which is about 8 miles away. The weather here has been on the coolish side.

Last Fri I drove in to work (~60 miles) and checked it again. On the way home, it was showing half a quart low; the indicated level was in between the two marks displayed. I added half a quart but have not taken it for a long enough drive to note it again.

My theory is that the car was quite warm when I drained the oil, hence the cooler thermostat was open, so the oil drained out of it. By the time I added the oil back in, the thermostat had cooled off again and closed, so none of the fresh oil I added made it back to the cooler. 6 quarts made it read full therefore.

When making a long enough drive to actually open the cooler's thermostat again, a half quart flowed into the cooler, and the reading was now low. Adding the extra half quart should fill it again. We shall see.

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      04-05-2010, 02:21 PM   #30
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Dackelone,

I think you pictures are great! I especially liked the pictures showing the drain plug and the way the oil comes out. My 2006 Grand Vitara (Suzuki SUV) has the same sort of sideways drain plug. I made such a mess the first time I changed my oil, I changed to a different style drain plug. This one is a quarter turn ball valve with a pipe nipple on it I put a piece of clear tubing on so I can direct it right down to the pan. No tools required for the drain plug plus no mess. The recess of the drain plug in the 135 might be a problem but the supplier sells and extension base to help.
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      04-05-2010, 02:32 PM   #31
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Hi Guys,

JimD thanks for the pics. Yes, I know about these types of valves. I guess I am old school... I prefer just the OE bolt and copper washer. But use what suits you & your car best.

Ianc, not to beat an old horse dead... but... BMW says the car needs seven quarts so thats what I put back in. When I drian the oil... I always measure how much comes out. On both of my oil changes, seven quarts came out. So... seven quarts went back in!

My Electro-dipstick always reads the same. Full. Even after several hours of driving at Warp speeds on the autobahn.

take care,
David
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      04-07-2010, 07:39 AM   #32
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Another idea for those of you with N53s with sideways drain plugs, you could cut an L-shaped piece out of a used oil bottle and pop rivet it to the undertray where it would deflect oil back out from under the engine. The plastic should be flimsy enough to just deflect if the undertray was pushed up by a bump or something. This could represent a semi-permanent solution for next to no money.

Jim
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      04-07-2010, 09:56 AM   #33
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Great idea Jim! I'm definitely going to look at something like that (possibly attached, but probably removable) when I next have the pan down...

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      04-07-2010, 11:23 AM   #34
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You'll notice the OEM filter is made by MANN filters... available from them in the after market for less then the BMW boxed product. PN HU816X. Looks identical!
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      04-15-2010, 04:14 AM   #35
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I bought some of this oil the other day... however, no where does it say "Long life" etc on it... is this oil suitable? I have a 2010 model...

Thanks.



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      04-15-2010, 12:22 PM   #36
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Yes. That oil is what is recommended. All the manual says is BMW High Performance Synthetic Oil but the attached specifies that part number - assuming you do not have a M car.
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      04-17-2010, 10:38 AM   #37
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I thought I would post which oil I used for my oil change in my 135i.

This is the ONLY OIL made by Mobil-1 that has BMW's LL1 approval.

Mobil-1 0w40



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      04-17-2010, 12:40 PM   #38
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I did my second oil change today at about 5500 miles. I am only driving my 128i a few days a week. I get a break on insurance for staying under 7500 miles a year which is easily possible since I have a perfectly good SUV (which is admittedly not as nice as the bimmer but better suited to some things).

Anyway, I get my 128i level this time and allowed it to drain for a really long time. I put in 6 quarts of BMW oil I got in a kit from Tischer and then just took it for a short drive around the neighborhood to see if it was full. It registers at the "Max" indicator. I will check it a few more times soon but it seems like mine really does not want 7 quarts. I thought maybe it was the fact I raised only the front last time but it does not seem to have made any difference.

A few other things I noted. First, to jack up all 4 corners, I jack at the rear jacking point on the passengers side, then put a stand under the front jacking point on the passengers side (jacking the rear raises the front too). Then I jack in the middle in the front (a little tight getting the jack in there without raising a corner, it's a harbor freight model and fairly low but not real low) and put the drivers front on stands. Then this time I jacked in the middle in the back to get all 4 corners on stands. Actually I put the stands under the back jacking points but just left the jack under it. If the jack failed I was safe but I thought it would save a little time. The release on the HF jack stuck, however, so it may have made it take longer. I just jack at the center both front and rear to remove the stands. It's a little tight in the front but the car sits slightly taller when it comes down that it does normally so I can get the jack out.

The cap of the oil filter housing says it needs 25 Nm torque. That did not cause the green dots to lineup this time but I torqued it to this value. That is the same torque as for the drain plug. It is higher than I would normally torque a drain plug but I am pretty sure this is what BMW calls for. 25Nm is 18.44 ft. lbs. My 3/8 torque wrench works well. My drain plug seemed a little tight on the first oil change which I attributed to paint but I now think it is just the BMW drain plug is tighter than I am used to.

I find it easiest to get to the drain plug from the front. That may not be true for a 135 due to the different front end.

I am going to make some short ramps out of 2x4s or 2x6s and see if that raises it enough I don't have to jack. Getting it in the air takes the most time. It will at least let me get to the center jacking point in the front. I can put a drain pan under it without anything raising it but it seems a bit tight to get the drain plug out with the drain pan in place. My stands put it much higher in the air than I need to change the oil. I could also get some floor mats to go under my ramps and use them (they slide with nothing under them).

Jim
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      04-29-2010, 06:10 AM   #39
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While I was at my local German dealer last week... I noticed they now sell the BMW oil in a different bottle. Upon a closer look... it says "BMW Long Life 4"

I believe this is the part number for the oil above: 83 21 0 398 504

I found the part number here on this website: look at #10
http://bmwfans.info/accessories/prod...les/motor_oil/
The above website is a great place to find BMW fluids, glues, ect...



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      04-29-2010, 07:13 AM   #40
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LL-04 according to BMW is only for use in countries that have low-sulphur petrol. Otherwise LL-01 oils should be used.
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      04-29-2010, 04:02 PM   #41
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LL-04 according to BMW is only for use in countries that have low-sulphur petrol. Otherwise LL-01 oils should be used.
Interesting. Where did you find this out?

I thought LL4 just superceeded LL1 ? Just as in their MT trans fluids. ???
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      04-30-2010, 01:07 AM   #42
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From TIS info about oil specs for each engine in BMW Group:
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      04-30-2010, 02:11 AM   #43
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Quote:
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From TIS info about oil specs for each engine in BMW Group:
good info
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      04-30-2010, 03:03 AM   #44
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Please note that this info is from 12/2008, so BMW may have updated recommendations based on changes in fuel quality regs in some countries.

I know M-B has the same guides about their oil specs for their Diesel cars.

The new oils are designed to help emission regs, but can break down too early if exposed to poor fuel.
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