BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

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      05-06-2011, 03:49 PM   #23
Dan Parker
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The internet foolishness perpetuated by technically illiterate people is very dangerous.
It appears you are talking about me here since I'm the one who didn't praise the owners manual and live by it's every word. It's almost sounding religious isn't it? But seriously, statements like yours discount an open conversation about the subject. To each his own but there's no need to make such blanket statements as if comments made on the internet (that don't adhere to your beliefs) are made by foolish, technically illiterate people. It doesn't solidify your belief, quite the opposite.

To be perfectly clear, I wasn't saying you should go wide open throttle, bounce off the rev limiter, lift, and repeat. I merely said it was good to put some load on the engine and let the engine rev down on it's own accord. Hopping in a new car and cruising for hundreds of miles, from what I've been told (in person), isn't good for the engine in the very early miles.

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Last edited by Dan Parker; 05-06-2011 at 04:28 PM.
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      05-06-2011, 04:23 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Dan Parker View Post
Yes, follow it exactly. Then when our engines are fully broken in mine will probably make more power and last just as long, if not longer. I'm not questioning what the engineers know, just the attorneys that sign off on the OM.
Not to mention less blow-by and carbon depositing on the intake valves over the long haul.
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      05-06-2011, 04:33 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by torquedemon View Post
I know its been debated, sorry for the overkill

-but I was intending to get 1M specific information
It has the same old N54 engine under the hood as most of all the 135i's out on the road today already...nothing new is going to apply.
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      05-06-2011, 04:42 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Papethova View Post
oh my god...not this link. race engines and bike engines are a whole 'nother story.
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      05-06-2011, 06:32 PM   #27
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I try not to pay much attention to any so-called experts that use double punctuation for emphasis. Know what i mean ??!!
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      05-06-2011, 06:56 PM   #28
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It has the same old N54 engine under the hood as most of all the 135i's out on the road today already...nothing new is going to apply.
There is more to it that just the engine. The transmission and differential are different. I would bet that the mandatory 2000 km service has something to do with the diff.
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      05-06-2011, 06:57 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by l888apex View Post
oh my god...not this link. race engines and bike engines are a whole 'nother story.
Cylinder, ring, piston pretty basic to me.
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      05-06-2011, 06:59 PM   #30
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not really man. different tolerances, expected life/longevity, and sizes/loads/rpm/piston speeds. follow the break in of the people who built your engine, no one else.
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      05-06-2011, 07:16 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by l888apex View Post
not really man. different tolerances, expected life/longevity, and sizes/loads/rpm/piston speeds. follow the break in of the people who built your engine, no one else.
Variations exist from vehicle to vehicle and application to application, but the idea behind the need to have it seat properly is common.

Car companies are governed by numerous departments, each one has a say and a reason for that say and that ultimately makes a difference in the product you get at the showroom, the information given regarding that product, and the way its serviced.

BMW tells you not to change your oil until the car indicates that. If I followed that I would have had one oil change in 3 years (car still hasnt indicated an oil change, Im just assuming it would have). I cant imagine the sludge building up in the lines if I didnt change the oil periodically. I also opted to change the oil at 500 miles, I could see the sparkle in the oil from the metal (it was like glitter), those that followed what the engine builders said had those metal bits circulating in their engine for atleast a year until their car told them to take it in for an oil change. I cant imagine thats so great for the internals, but it sure works well for BMWs bottom line when the oil changes are on their dime the first 4 years.


I wasnt arguing one side of the coin or the other here, just providing information for the OP to make a determination on his own. I would never tell anyone how to break in their engine. He asked, I shared.
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      05-06-2011, 07:26 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by DarthColin View Post
There is more to it that just the engine. The transmission and differential are different. I would bet that the mandatory 2000 km service has something to do with the diff.
All M cars get the 1200 mile service which does include the transmission and rear diff oil being changed and I'm sure this one is no different. There may be legitimate reasons for changing the oil in the diff when LSD's are involved...break in oil that needs to be removed or something to that effect. Non-LSD diffs I can't see any good reason to do waste the money or effort.
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      05-07-2011, 11:13 AM   #33
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Manual advice

Sorry guys for the delay I had a busy friday evening there it is.
Attached Images
File Type: pdf numérisation0001.pdf (650.8 KB, 222 views)
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      05-07-2011, 12:32 PM   #34
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Sorry guys for the delay I had a busy friday evening there it is.
Thanks for the scan
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      05-07-2011, 03:51 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by BimmerMat135 View Post
Sorry guys for the delay I had a busy friday evening there it is.
Thanks-- That's what I thought.

It doesn't mean I must drive it like the Granny I am but I plan to vary speed-be patient and change the fluids at 1,200 miles. Can't hurt.
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      05-08-2011, 10:24 PM   #36
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I wish they had the manuals up on the BMWUSA website. I've been looking for this myself. Does anyone have an electronic/pdf copy they could post please? Not trying to jack the thread either...
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      05-08-2011, 10:55 PM   #37
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I wish they had the manuals up on the BMWUSA website. I've been looking for this myself. Does anyone have an electronic/pdf copy they could post please? Not trying to jack the thread either...
The manual supplied with my 1m is the standard 1 Coupe/ Convertible Manual with a 44 page Supplementary Manual. I haven't seen the Supplementary Manual online or in PDF format.
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      05-08-2011, 11:44 PM   #38
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I have run all my new cars & motorcycles hard from the showroom floor. No one really knows the answer to this break-in question.

I have never had any issues (although I never really keep the vehicle past 50,000kms). I can say that my Honda Fireblade bike was faster than others identical to it. I broke it in hard. Oil change after first 100 kms.

My 135i, went for oil change at 250kms, dealer thought I was crazy :-)

With modern machining tolerances etc I don't think it makes a difference with the engine. Brakes etc do require break-in periods though.
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      05-09-2011, 10:02 AM   #39
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The manual supplied with my 1m is the standard 1 Coupe/ Convertible Manual with a 44 page Supplementary Manual. I haven't seen the Supplementary Manual online or in PDF format.
Less to scan????
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      05-09-2011, 10:37 AM   #40
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Maybe this isn't directly related to break-in period but since we're talking about manufacturers' recommendations, I'll throw in my 2 cents on oil change intervals. BMW has been recommending 15K oil change intervals for a number of years now. I was brought up believing that 3K oil changes were the best bet for maximizing engine life and practiced that until I bought an '03 E46 M3. Since I wasn't convinced that 15K was a safe distance to run an engine, even with synthetics, I had my factory Castrol synthetic oil tested at 7,500 miles by sending a sample to Blackstone Laboratories. http://www.blackstone-labs.com/standard-analysis.php

I didn't track the car so my miles were probably a typical mix of commuting and occasional hard accelerations. The report I received said that, based on my usage, the additive levels in the oil were good for about 10,000 miles and then I should change the oil. Based on that, I paid for the interim changes every 7,500 miles in between the changes paid for by BMW. I repeated the test with my '08 135i and got basically the same
report back saying I shouldn't go more than about 10,000 miles based on wear rates.

Since I rarely keep my cars beyond 50,000 miles, the reduced wear on engine parts is mainly a benefit to the 2nd and 3rd owners but for those of you who keep cars through the life of the vehicle, I'd recommend paying $25 and having your oil checked about half way through the recommended oil change interval and then make up your own mind about how often to change oil.

Manufacturer marketing departments, BMW included, may well dictate the longer oil change intervals rather than sound engineering practices.
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