If you had $1,500....

[jester17]

Hello All!

So I need some opinions: I've got about $1,500 to spend on my 2011 135i. I'd love to amp up the power.... but am not interested in turning it into a super-burner; I don't have any real interest in anything cosmetic, and love the idea of keeping the car as a sleeper. I have (probably pointless/not required) anxiety about voiding the warranty, especially as I barely know the difference between a flathead and a Philips. Would you:

-- Get the BMW PPK 1?
-- Save the cash until you had another $1,500, and get the BMW PPK 2?
-- Something entirely different with that money right now?
-- Save the cash until you had $x,xxx, and do something completely different?

Thanks for all the past posts and support!

[themellly]

Well if you wanted an ultimate sleeper then a tune, dp's, and DCI would pretty much be your answer.. Im not a fan of cosmetics either :/ But if not the I would just say get the PPK 1. Gives the car a decent amount of power since ur saying you don't want too much.

[giOsaurus rEx]

$250 for springs
$600 for dampers
$500 for JB4 Stage 2, set it to Map 1. It's not difficult to install/uninstall for dealership visits.
Rest would go to labor for the suspension.

[Everfly]

$400 for Jb4 with flex fuel used
$350 for DP
$200 for the CP
$50 for K&N drop in
$480 for the IC
$20 fill up with E85

[tracer bullet]

Cobb tune and a FMIC to help handle it.

[Eyeman]

Tough choice. From what you said, I really think you should just wait until you get more mileage on your car so maybe you'll worry less about the warranty.

Stock you car is fairly quick. BMW factory modded, it's just a tad quicker, still much slower than aftermarket modded. So still not really a sleeper. If you get up the courage for a tune, you should probably get a flash type like a GIAC tune or find a shop that will install a Cobb tune for you.

If you ever do start doing cosmetic stuff, just think about mods that mimic factory stuff like the M type stuff.

[135imichael]

I would do a tune, dps, and DCI like many others said. I have it and I love it.

[alexmtl_135i]

For 1500$ you can get:
- Option 1: PPK1, full warranty and limited extra power
- Option 2: JB4, downpipe and chargepipe: Maximum power, but hard to install
- Option 3: Cobb, and maybe FMIC. Cobb installs really easily, and with FMIC you can run stage 1 aggressive which gives really nice gains.

It all depends on how much extra power you want and how much you want to get your hands dirty

[hyphy1]

LSD - limited slip differential!

[BEAR-AvHistory]

JB4/ISO + FMIC & pocket the change.

[jester17]

Man, you folks are great -- thanks so much for the input and info!

Just so I get this straight: The BMW PPK 2 is, essentially, their PPK 1 with an FMIC, no?

One last question: The Dinan intercooler description mentions power gains... but will it create this by itself, or are they just referring to power gains with an FMIC in combination with a power kit?

All best!

[MightyMouseTech]

Originally Posted by jester17

Just so I get this straight: The BMW PPK 2 is, essentially, their PPK 1 with an FMIC, no?

No. The PPK2 adds a more powerful rad fan (same as 1M) and an additional small rad that runs off the main rad that gets installed in the front bumper. About the size of an oil cooler.

[Dackelone]

I would say get the PPK if your itching for more power. IF not a PE(Performance Exhaust) is a great mod. Both mods are more about feel and attitude than shear power. Maybe get a SSK if your car is a manual trans?

[SAM135iAM]

Talk to your service adviser in person about what sort of modifications he would be "cool" with. Tell him your ideas and what you're goal is with the car. Do not let him talk you into PPK or Dinan though. Not that there is anything wrong with them. It's just Dinan and PPK come with the price they do for the piece of mind that you won't have warranty issues(which is super important for a lot of people). I understand completely where you're at with modding. I've been in the same boat. I suggest you continue to save for a few months, continue doing research on modding, and figure out what will best suit you. There is no harm in having money saved up. The last thing you want to do is drop $1500 on something that ends up not being what you really want.

With that said...

JB4 Stage 2 and FMIC.

Through a few subtle exterior mods here and there to satiety your mod bug every once in a while too. Maybe that would just be a starting place for you since you're wanting to do some mods. My first mods were AE's then smoked side markers while I tried to figure out what performance mods I wanted to do.

[Everfly]

Originally Posted by hyphy1

LSD - limited slip differential!

Where can i get LSD for $1500 can u show in? Thanks

[Freon]

Get a tune for now, but save the rest for wheels and tires.

BMW PPK is the least cost effective solution to more power. You can spend half and get triple the gains from a JB or Cobb AP tune.

[PrematureApex]

JB4, shocks, and keep an eye out for a set of stock 17" wheels. You said sleeper right?

[jester17]

GREAT advice, folks -- especially the issue with waiting until I have more miles/warranty expires. I think what I'll end up doing is getting the PPK 1 for now, save the remaining $400 or so until next year when the warranty's up, and then explore some JB4, COBB and/or Helix stuff. Regardless, thanks again for pitching in... if you're ever in the 17022, beer's on me!

[PrematureApex]

The BMW PPK's are a horrible value. IMHO, if you aren't willing to remove the JB4/etc. when brining the car in for service, hold off on the ECU work for now. Put the $1500 into curing the honestly horrible handing of the car. And when you're to the point your willing to add an aftermarket tune, do so.

[BrewRifle]

Why not get a Cobb V2 for ~500? It is extremely easy to install and remove and the gains over the ppk are that much better for a fraction of the cost.

[jester17]

RE: COBB -- I guess I'm afraid of applying too much juice to an engine that might not be able to handle it... no?

RE: Waiting -- Still an option I'm considering...

[135Pats]

Originally Posted by jester17

RE: COBB -- I guess I'm afraid of applying too much juice to an engine that might not be able to handle it... no?

RE: Waiting -- Still an option I'm considering...

I’ll buy you the tune if you can find an example of a Cobb OTS map causing outright failure on an N54 or 55. It just doesn’t happen. The N55 on paper isn’t quite as robust as the N54, but it’s a damn good motor. There is absolutely no way it’s going to grenade on you using a Stage 1 OTS Cobb Map, bottom line. Please do not waste your money on PPK, it’s laughably over-priced for the gains. Cobb is as safe as it gets tuning wise; it’s a flash so your DME isn’t being blindfolded with boost multipliers. It’s fully free to retard timing or do whatever is necessary to prevent a serious tuning related issue. We’re all concerned about blowing up our cars, but in all seriousness Stg 1 tunes are a walk in the park.

IMO Get a Cobb and FMIC. Run the Stg1+ maps and you’ll have a punchy setup that will very likely run happier than your car currently is.