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07-22-2009, 09:21 AM | #23 |
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I just hope bmw never goes that route, they feel too smooth
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You only need two tools in life - WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
Driving e82, e72, e85, R53 Gone but not forgotten.. 1974 2002, many various 3s. |
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07-22-2009, 09:57 AM | #24 |
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Drives: '08 135i, '88 325is
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Denver, CO
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I've noticed lots of ex-S2000 owners along with ex-STi/WRX and ex-Evo owners. We're definitely a group of enthusiasts.
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07-22-2009, 10:00 AM | #25 |
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bunch of ex lotus drivers too
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You only need two tools in life - WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
Driving e82, e72, e85, R53 Gone but not forgotten.. 1974 2002, many various 3s. |
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07-22-2009, 10:03 AM | #27 |
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I drove a 2004 Acura RSX-Type S which the Si replaced. It was a great little car, but the 135i is rear wheel drive, has a hundred more hp, and waaaaayyyyy more torque. The shifts are different but I am really happy to be back in a Bimmer. It shifts fine in comparison, although the Hondas do have short throw as standard....I love my Bimmer...
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07-22-2009, 10:34 AM | #28 | |
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Quote:
You touched on a good point here. The lower torque levels of the Honda engines are one of the reasons they're able to design such smooth transmissions. There's a lot more mass involved when you start beefing up the driveline to withstand higher torque levels. The higher RPM levels the Honda transmissions have to deal with presents a challenge as well, but it doesn't result in heavy components that effect the feel. |
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07-22-2009, 12:29 PM | #29 |
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Hey Jeremy, back in the day Miller's FWD Indy cars had the diff in front of the two speed tranny - so the torque multiplication from the final drive of the in-line supercharged eight was ahead of the gearbox. Fortunately it was only shifted to get out of the pits (lo-hi). ; -)
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07-22-2009, 08:33 PM | #30 | |
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Quote:
You'll have to try a number of times, but try to get a feel for where in the pedal travel the clutch actually disengages. You can try this on a small hill, with NO traffic. While in gear, pedal in, start releasing the pedal and note when the clutch actually engages/grabs. Also, go the other way too, as the car is moving slowly in 1st gear, slowly depress the clutch pedal and note at what point the clutch is disengaged, you'll know as the car won't be pulled by the engine anymore. You'll feel and know what I mean when you try it. The thing that sucks though, is that when accelerating fast you'll still have a tendency to push the pedal in as far as it will go. That's why I'm working on a "clutch stop" for my 1. I made one for my 325i, but it was MUCH easier to make one as it had a stock piece that was threaded. So, it was easy to find a bolt that would bit it, and by using 2 nuts and a rubber end, like the kind you find on a cane, you can make one very easily. The 1 doesn't have this. I'm looking for a clamp that will fit around the clutch pedal lever, from that point I attach a small bolt or rod of some kind to a rubber stopper. I want to make it adjustable so that I can find the friction point. The other concern, as on the 3 series, is the clutch/starter activator. I'll have to check my 1. One the 3 there was a "kill/start" switch that activates at the point of friction to allow the engine to start with the clutch disengaged. You have to find that point along with the actual friction point to set the stopper. I've experimented with the friction point and I think there is about an inch that can be shortened, maybe a bit more. It DOES make a difference. The added benefit is that you can also sit a bit farther back, if you have shorter legs like I do. I have to put my seat a bit farther up than I want so that when I push the clutch all the way in I'm not hyper-extending my leg. Yes, most of you don't have this, but my 30-31" inseam with a 6'1" height SUCKS for long clutch engagement. In my 3 it made a difference in the speed of the overall shift, as there was less pedal travel. Even though all the mechanicals are still the same, it made a difference in overall "feel" of the shifts that was very nice. When I figure it out, I'll post how I made it. If someone gets there first, PLEASE post how you made one. |
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07-22-2009, 08:38 PM | #31 |
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No doubt about it my 06 Si shifted better than my 135i and my NSX blows them all away. So when I want great shift feel I drive the NSX but I lose all the damn torque that the 135i offers. To be honest, the NSX sits alot these days, who needs great shift action when you have over 400lb of torque........ thanks BMW & Steve Dinan !!
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