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      01-17-2013, 06:14 AM   #23
flinchy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sparoz View Post
Hence Beric's car have extra cooling. And it still goes limp - but the radiator was block to be fair.
radiator? not oil cooler?

i'm guessing it's a 6AT? i've never heard of a 6MT having coolant issues, only oil temps.
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      01-17-2013, 06:30 AM   #24
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Heat is a killer in these cars. 3 x hot laps on a 25C day is more than enough.

Coasting down the straight at 130kmph in 6th gear fixes this issue. I've had about 20-30 laps back to back - all the fun is in the twisties!
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      01-17-2013, 06:32 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flinchy View Post
radiator? not oil cooler?

i'm guessing it's a 6AT? i've never heard of a 6MT having coolant issues, only oil temps.
Flinchy, Beric Lynton has the only 1M race car in the world.

Tongue in cheek comment (hence the ), the oil cooler has nothing to do with the limp, as the radiator was blocked by the dirt during the race, and water temps put it into limp.
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      01-17-2013, 06:35 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alik01 View Post
Heat is a killer in these cars. 3 x hot laps on a 25C day is more than enough.

Coasting down the straight at 130kmph in 6th gear fixes this issue. I've had about 20-30 laps back to back - all the fun is in the twisties!
I will see how I go with the stock cooler. Thanks for the tip re the straight. The 1M race car got to 150 in Warrick. I know the guy in Germany I deal with already have a better oil cooler in their 1M track car so if it is an issue, might go to them. Otherwise, will just have to use what Beric uses.
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      01-17-2013, 06:51 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sparoz View Post
I will see how I go with the stock cooler. Thanks for the tip re the straight. The 1M race car got to 150 in Warrick. I know the guy in Germany I deal with already have a better oil cooler in their 1M track car so if it is an issue, might go to them. Otherwise, will just have to use what Beric uses.
Don't know what the solution is. I think Peter at Advan has a brilliant idea and I was keen on pursuing it through the R&D stage before. However, I definitely solved my cooling issue!
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      01-17-2013, 06:57 AM   #28
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To fit Beric's cooling set up you will have to do some plastic surgery modifications behind the front bumper in the duct areas where the standard coolers are as well as remove the air con. You will also have to alter the front wheel inner guards in order to fit larger mesh screens. It goes on and on. I was looking at getting some extra cooling but when I saw how much work is involved I quickly changed my mind. It's just not practical and is it really needed?

Personally I feel that the car has plenty of power and I have yet to have a limp mode happen on a track, but then I have always, well nearly always, been relatively gentle on my engines.

Good on those who like to extract more ponies, Beric's race mechanic said that the engine is up for it but they do not like to be over revved and of course the longevity is affected.

It's the suspension that needs work for the non German roads we have here in Oz.
A well sorted chassis with a standard engine is as quick if not quicker than a hi-po car with an unsorted chassis, and a lot more fun to drive.
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      01-17-2013, 07:06 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gazz View Post
To fit Beric's cooling set up you will have to do some plastic surgery modifications behind the front bumper in the duct areas where the standard coolers are as well as remove the air con. You will also have to alter the front wheel inner guards in order to fit larger mesh screens. It goes on and on. I was looking at getting some extra cooling but when I saw how much work is involved I quickly changed my mind. It's just not practical and is it really needed?

Personally I feel that the car has plenty of power and I have yet to have a limp mode happen on a track, but then I have always, well nearly always, been relatively gentle on my engines.

Good on those who like to extract more ponies, Beric's race mechanic said that the engine is up for it but they do not like to be over revved and of course the longevity is affected.

It's the suspension that needs work for the non German roads we have here in Oz.
A well sorted chassis with a standard engine is as quick if not quicker than a hi-po car with an unsorted chassis, and a lot more fun to drive.
I c - definitely not Beric's option then. Anyway, suspension would be next and I guess the temporary solution if it becomes an issue is to turn the tune down.
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      01-17-2013, 07:24 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by gazz View Post
It's just not practical and is it really needed?
I like the 1M, but if it was a real track ready "Motorsport" car, it would have one MAJOR difference over the pov pack N54, i.e. a dry sump oil system............it doesnt.
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      01-17-2013, 08:42 AM   #31
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Mine was always stock tune. Only 'mod' was E92 M3 18" Wheels & Yoko A050. Oh yes, and some very fancy wheel bolts, brake pad and fluid.

Plenty of fun! Definitely no GT3 though.
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      01-17-2013, 03:24 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by alik01 View Post
Mine was always stock tune. Only 'mod' was E92 M3 18" Wheels & Yoko A050. Oh yes, and some very fancy wheel bolts, brake pad and fluid.

Plenty of fun! Definitely no GT3 though.
You are in Darwin though .
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      01-17-2013, 04:02 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by sparoz View Post
You are in Darwin though .
True! That always comes into play!

The issue was still prevalent in the colder dry season months where ambient was about 22C though. I think I got 5 x hot laps or so.
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      01-17-2013, 04:47 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alik01 View Post
True! That always comes into play!

The issue was still prevalent in the colder dry season months where ambient was about 22C though. I think I got 5 x hot laps or so.
Let's race to limp mode the lesser hot laps the winner .
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Last edited by sparoz; 01-17-2013 at 05:42 PM..
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      01-17-2013, 05:00 PM   #35
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i've learnt and been told by people with alot more skill then me, with the N54 you gotta use the torque and not zing the engine, change up at about 5k and take alot of speed into corners. i let a friend of mine who is a professional driver drive my car at EC and he was in a higher gear then me the whole time and did a much faster lap time, as expected. i wish i had that kind of skill level.
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      01-17-2013, 05:23 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beemer View Post
i've learnt and been told by people with alot more skill then me, with the N54 you gotta use the torque and not zing the engine, change up at about 5k and take alot of speed into corners. i let a friend of mine who is a professional driver drive my car at EC and he was in a higher gear then me the whole time and did a much faster lap time, as expected. i wish i had that kind of skill level.
a bit of practice doesn't hurt either
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      01-17-2013, 08:15 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beemer View Post
i've learnt and been told by people with alot more skill then me, with the N54 you gotta use the torque and not zing the engine, change up at about 5k and take alot of speed into corners. i let a friend of mine who is a professional driver drive my car at EC and he was in a higher gear then me the whole time and did a much faster lap time, as expected. i wish i had that kind of skill level.
Ditto that. How many times has anyone down changed to 2nd gear for a corner only to find themselves upchanging just after the exit?

Hard for me sometimes, coming from a history of low torque high rev engines. "Don't let it ping or you'll hole a piston". Plus I'm a heel and toe junkie.
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      01-18-2013, 12:36 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sparoz View Post
Flinchy, Beric Lynton has the only 1M race car in the world.

Tongue in cheek comment (hence the ), the oil cooler has nothing to do with the limp, as the radiator was blocked by the dirt during the race, and water temps put it into limp.
Ah i didn't know you were talking about a single specific instance lol

Fair enough!

I shall google him haha

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Originally Posted by DR-JEKL View Post
I thought the ohlins was an equivalent to KW V3's?

Well that's the ohlins I had looked at anyway the R&T's for around $2.5K?
ohlins should be MUCH better than KW's. especially for the price, they're good value.

Last edited by flinchy; 01-18-2013 at 02:56 AM..
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      02-04-2013, 03:42 AM   #39
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Originally Posted by sparoz View Post
For the people who deals with them, putting money aside, how do Proflex compare to Ohlins? Just realised that we have a local suspension expert on the Sunny Coast and I don't have to deal with people overseas.
Any advance on your research Steve?
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      02-04-2013, 04:40 AM   #40
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Quote:
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Any advance on your research Steve?
Haven't got time to look more into it yet, and honestly with new projects as work this hasn't been my priority. Out of all the mods, this is the most complex to understand, that's probably why suspension tuning is called the dark arts. MCA is the renowned expert in the area with championship winning cars in timeattacks and rally but Ohlins is supposed to have the silkiest ride and more track orientated then Profex/MCA. One advantage is MCA is local and there is no one here to setup the Ohlins.

The best option for me is still Ohlins but setup by MCA. I was thinking about contacting the Bowdens to see if anyone is available to do a setup. Anyway, my first step is to drive down to MCA and have a chat with Murray and Josh.
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