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      02-26-2017, 04:45 AM   #199
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doublevanosrc View Post
Just finished changing out the spark plugs and the now the car is running lumpy. The SES light just came on, sounds like a misfire.

Just got error code P305 on the obdII scanner indicating a misfire on #5. I bet a million bucks its a bad coil, whos with me?
Move that coil pack and see IF the code moves to that cylinder.

Also make sure you have the correct spark plugs. Its common to get the wrong ones. N55 vs N54 plugs. Also check the flip top coil connector - it's easy to install the electrical connector wrong. Remove the connector and reinsert it.

good luck
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      02-26-2017, 10:27 PM   #200
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Coil#5 was not plugged in, gave it a nudge and its all good now. Old plugs looked in good shape for 50k miles.
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      02-27-2017, 05:15 PM   #201
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Is there directions or video in how to change the Cabin Microfilter inside the box glove?
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      02-27-2017, 05:26 PM   #202
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WP1 View Post
Is there directions or video in how to change the Cabin Microfilter inside the box glove?
Well, it might take you a LONG time to change it through the glove box.

When you open the hood, it is sitting on top of the cowl panel.
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      02-27-2017, 05:53 PM   #203
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Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech View Post
Well, it might take you a LONG time to change it through the glove box.

When you open the hood, it is sitting on top of the cowl panel.

Oh, this is the long rectangular filter in that panel. So, there is no "air filter" inside the glove box to replace?
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      02-27-2017, 07:23 PM   #204
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      02-27-2017, 08:13 PM   #205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WP1 View Post
Is there directions or video in how to change the Cabin Microfilter inside the box glove?
First hit/return on YT...

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      02-28-2017, 09:36 AM   #206
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mighty mouse doesn't know about the secret mini micro filter for the elves that live in the glove box...
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      02-28-2017, 09:44 AM   #207
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WP1 View Post
Oh, this is the long rectangular filter in that panel. So, there is no "air filter" inside the glove box to replace?
No.
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      02-28-2017, 02:41 PM   #208
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Thanks,

WOW, so easy to change! and the dealer wanted around $180 to change it (including the $75 filter). I will do that and the engine filter this weekend.

Now, tell me why that Micro filter has to be changed with the brake fluid change? the dealer was telling me that both need to be done at the same time.
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      02-28-2017, 02:52 PM   #209
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WP1 View Post
Thanks,

WOW, so easy to change! and the dealer wanted around $180 to change it (including the $75 filter). I will do that and the engine filter this weekend.

Now, tell me why that Micro filter has to be changed with the brake fluid change? the dealer was telling me that both need to be done at the same time.
They are not connected(to each other) other than both should be changed every two years. Brake fluid absorbs water(humidity) in the air over time... the microfilter filters out the pollen in the air. IF you lived in a high pollen area - you could even need to change the filter every year. Also wiper blades as well.
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      03-29-2017, 08:54 PM   #210
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
IF you are going to change the spark plugs... you might also want to change the pollen filter too - while your in there. You have to remove the pollen filter tray to get the plastic (fake - outer) valve cover off to get at the coil packs/plugs.

Don't use any anti seize on spark plug threads. Change the plugs on a cold engine. Use a torque wrench with a low scale calibration: 23Nm

Before starting work... double check that you have the correct part number spark plugs. Quite a few people have gotten N54 plugs for a N55 motor. They are not interchangeable! Double check.

Also... you might want to have a new spare coil pack on hand... incase one of your old coils breaks when removing. I used a six inch 1/2" extension inside the coil's "loop" pull tab as I slowly pulled up on the coil. Go slow... some of those coils are really stuck into those "holes".

You can also use some dielectric grease(just a smidge) on the top of the plug where it snaps onto the coil pack. But I did not use any.

Also having some 6mm allens or 6mm hex 1/4 sockets or bits might help in removing that one rear hex bolt that holds the fake valve cover on. Also have one of those telescoping magnetic tools for finding anything you drop down into the belly pan.


And lastly... IF you can change your own oil... you can change your spark plugs. Its not hard.


Btw... its almost time for me to change my plugs again too. I just bought a set of six coil packs from Oembimmerparts.com for $176 for the set of six coils. Just FYI. I didn't get any kickbacks... I just thought it was a good price on OEM factory coils. Now I just need a warm day to go work on my car in the garage.

https://www.oembimmerparts.com/1-Ser...rts-s/2196.htm


Good Luck,
Dackel
I am going to change my plugs in next few days and bought the same $176 coil pack. Great deal! But do I really need to change my coils at 50,000 miles? Should I wait until my next plug change?

Thank you!

Peace... Mack
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      03-30-2017, 04:02 PM   #211
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mackeroni View Post
I am going to change my plugs in next few days and bought the same $176 coil pack. Great deal! But do I really need to change my coils at 50,000 miles? Should I wait until my next plug change?

Thank you!

Peace... Mack
No, your coils should be still ok at 50K. But you will see... if any of the coils break(apart) when you remove them or IF you see any arch tracing from a leaking coil pack - then replace them. Since you already have them... I would just throw them in. Save your old coils... incase you need a spare in the future.

I normally park my car inside of a garage... but on a few winter days... when I parked outside... on cold starts... I noticed a miss fire or two, only on cold start and ONLY for the first few seconds after starting. No stored ecu codes though. So I am not sure IF it was the old plugs/coils(85K miles) or carbon buildup. Since then no problems... so when I change my plugs(in the near future) and coils(soon) I will see what the culprit is.

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      08-06-2017, 06:01 PM   #212
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BMW quoted me $1000 to change coil packs and spark plugs for all 6.

Ordered the parts and the tools on Amazon for ~$300.
Took one hour and 20 minutes my first time doing this, and that includes also emptying the Burger Motorsports Oil Catch-can (which is hard as shit to unscrew - that right there probably took 15 minutes).

I'm not mechanically inclined and this was easy to do. I would urge anyone who is having problems with this and knows it to be their spark/plugs and coils to watch a few videos on YouTube, get it down in your brain, and just do it. It's not hard, and you will appreciate the work you've done.

The problems I was experiencing are now completely gone. Rough idle is now smooth. High idle of about 1000RPM is back down to about 600RPM. Hesitation on acceleration is gone and it feels like a new car again.

This post, write-up, and plethora of videos as greatly instrumental in me saving $700~$800.
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      08-07-2017, 04:33 PM   #213
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I recently replaced my spark plugs and coil packs on my 135i. I took this time to also replace the pollen filter and run some AC Klima cleaner down the evaporator. I forgot to take pics of that... but it was very simple... I just ran some Klima spray down the interior fan drum - on the passenger side. Once the pollen filter has been removed - the fan is exposed... I just ran the plastic hose down to the fan and ran the fan on HIGH.

Replace the spark plugs is fairly easy. I would suggest you get the special spark plug socket.

I went with a Mahle pollen filter and BMW-Bosch spark plugs bought at a local BMW dealer. I ordered my new coil packs from OEM Bimmerparts. I went with the Eldor coil packs since they are the OE brand that BMW uses.

https://www.oembimmerparts.com/BMW-1...7273ser1kt.htm

When I removed my old plugs I noticed some crud down in those holes... so I taped a 10mm fish tank hose to my vacuum cleaner and used a little non flammable(very important! when using with a vacuum cleaner!!) brake cleaner and suck'd away. You can see that most of the "crud" was gone.

It also helps to have a magnetic wand near by when removing those two rear 6mm hex(allen) screws that secure the pseudo valve cover. For some reason that left rear screw always manages to drop into never never land. Having a telescoping magnet can work wonders!

Also... use a 1/2 six in extension as leverage when removing the old coil packs from the "holes". Sometimes they can be really stubborn!


Here are my pics...

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      08-09-2017, 03:13 PM   #214
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How many miles on those plugs?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
I recently replaced my spark plugs and coil packs on my 135i. I took this time to also replace the pollen filter and run some AC Klima cleaner down the evaporator. I forgot to take pics of that... but it was very simple... I just ran some Klima spray down the interior fan drum - on the passenger side. Once the pollen filter has been removed - the fan is exposed... I just ran the plastic hose down to the fan and ran the fan on HIGH.

Replace the spark plugs is fairly easy. I would suggest you get the special spark plug socket.

I went with a Mahle pollen filter and BMW-Bosch spark plugs bought at a local BMW dealer. I ordered my new coil packs from OEM Bimmerparts. I went with the Eldor coil packs since they are the OE brand that BMW uses.

https://www.oembimmerparts.com/BMW-1...7273ser1kt.htm

When I removed my old plugs I noticed some crud down in those holes... so I taped a 10mm fish tank hose to my vacuum cleaner and used a little non flammable(very important! when using with a vacuum cleaner!!) brake cleaner and suck'd away. You can see that most of the "crud" was gone.

It also helps to have a magnetic wand near by when removing those two rear 6mm hex(allen) screws that secure the pseudo valve cover. For some reason that left rear screw always manages to drop into never never land. Having a telescoping magnet can work wonders!

Also... use a 1/2 six in extension as leverage when removing the old coil packs from the "holes". Sometimes they can be really stubborn!
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      08-09-2017, 03:49 PM   #215
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ayao View Post
How many miles on those plugs?
I think around 50K miles. I know I should have replaced them sooner but LIFE just kept getting in the way. I also have a tune so I really went way too long on them.


One thing I noticed on my first test drive after the new plugs and coils... man does my PE now pop and crackle much more!! A sweet (good)side effect of changing ones worn out plugs.

Dackel
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      08-09-2017, 04:11 PM   #216
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
When I removed my old plugs I noticed some crud down in those holes... so I taped a 10mm fish tank hose to my vacuum cleaner and used a little non flammable(very important! when using with a vacuum cleaner!!)
Looks like you had some spare tubing from fixing your wind noise.

Don't you mean 13mm?
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      08-09-2017, 04:32 PM   #217
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech View Post
Looks like you had some spare tubing from fixing your wind noise.

Don't you mean 13mm?
Yeah... that is what it was from. I couldn't remember the exact dia. Having some odd ends in one's tool box can come in handy every now and then!

Dackel
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