BlueStreak Builds A Racecar

[xBlueStreakx]

Originally Posted by dbronnik

How'd you do the hybrid skirts? Chop and graft?

Bought them used from a forum member who was doing the full 1M conversion from just the front end conversion. It was supposedly 'plastic welded' (?). Whomever did the work did a great job; literally seamless.

[xBlueStreakx]

Visited one of our local tracks twice in the span of a month or so; Canadian Tire Motorsports Park (Mosport).

First time out, managed a 1:37.2
Second time out, managed a 1:34.7. It was a scorcher that day. Hoping to go back in the fall when the weather is cooler and pull off a 1:33.X. The car is definitely faster than I thought it would be at this point.

In between the first and second visit, I removed around 100lbs from the car: AC compressor and condenser delete, gutted doors and swapped in an Odyssey PC680. I figure I'm juuuuusstttt under 3000lbs with no fuel.

[TZANIDO777]

Originally Posted by xBlueStreakx

Visited one of our local tracks twice in the span of a month or so; Canadian Tire Motorsports Park (Mosport).

First time out, managed a 1:37.2
Second time out, managed a 1:34.7. It was a scorcher that day. Hoping to go back in the fall when the weather is cooler and pull off a 1:33.X. The car is definitely faster than I thought it would be at this point.

In between the first and second visit, I removed around 100lbs from the car: AC compressor and condenser delete, gutted doors and swapped in an Odyssey PC680. I figure I'm juuuuusstttt under 3000lbs with no fuel.

Any details on the Ac delete? Been wanting to do this for a while but cant find any good info on doing it.

[asbrr]

Great job Blue Streak!

Any plan on doing the full 2-piece whiteline RSFB for the rear if you get a chance over the winter? Or go even further with solid bushings (there are a few vendors out there). Will help with the confidence in the rear end (especially once you have that diff) and lap time gains because of it I would think...

[Kgolf31]

Originally Posted by asbrr

Great job Blue Streak!

Any plan on doing the full 2-piece whiteline RSFB for the rear if you get a chance over the winter? Or go even further with solid bushings (there are a few vendors out there). Will help with the confidence in the rear end (especially once you have that diff) and lap time gains because of it I would think...

I think at the level of build he is doing, don't skimp out and take short cuts. Replace the whole bushings.

AKG make awesome replacements.

[asbrr]

Originally Posted by Kgolf31

I think at the level of build he is doing, don't skimp out and take short cuts. Replace the whole bushings.

AKG make awesome replacements.

Agreed - he put in the inserts only so far, feels like it's one of the obvious weak links left that with some elbow grease will pay off with noticeable dividends.

[TexSquirrel]

Wish I could see your car in person.
Sounds awesome!

[xBlueStreakx]

AC delete in the engine bay was pretty easy actually. First, remove the serpentine belt by loosening the tensioner with a T60 bit (there are DIYs online for that) then loosen the hardlines around the compressor itself. The compressor can be found below the charge pipe area at the front of the engine. Trace back the hardlines to the driver side firewall and remove any bolts that secure them.

You need the following serpentine belt in lieu of the OEM setup (info courtesy of scottn2retro): https://www.amazon.ca/Gates-K070673-.../dp/B000CRBRQC

When running the serpentine belt, just route it the OEM way and skip the compressor area and you're good to go.


Right now, I only have the whiteline bushing inserts out back. The plan is to go with solid aluminum in the future, however, I don't think it will be happening this year. I'm having fuel starvation issues on sweeping right handers at 1/2 tank and below so I need to address that. Furthermore, I want to install the VAC Motorsports N54 oil pan baffle up front. That'll eat up the budget for the subframe bushings this year. I'm also 90% comfortable the way it is; the car is very very stable and fast so I'll put money elsewhere this winter. I'm thinking full spherical bearings out back, front splitter, wing and tying in the cage to the front suspension.

And here's a video of me coming down the straight at CTMP Mosport. Topped off at 220km/h.
https://youtu.be/5hnvq7y_qcA

[TZANIDO777]

Great! Thanks for the info...last question...what did you do with the AC unit under the dash?

[xBlueStreakx]

I left the heater core and evaporator in for now. Still on the fence as go whether I will be pulling it in case I need to defog the windshield. I'll decide this winter.

[TexSquirrel]

Originally Posted by xBlueStreakx

You need the following serpentine belt in lieu of the OEM setup (info courtesy of scottn2retro): https://www.amazon.ca/Gates-K070673-.../dp/B000CRBRQC

Wow, 48.55 Canadian dollars.
I checked the US Amazon site and it is only US$24.97, which is just CA$32.35.

[xBlueStreakx]

Originally Posted by TexSquirrel

Wow, 48.55 Canadian dollars.
I checked the US Amazon site and it is only US$24.97, which is just CA$32.35.

Don't remind me :-P

[spxxx]

How are your brakes without ducts? Since the dual coolers cover the inlets

[xBlueStreakx]

The Stoptechs manage just fine without the ducts. That being said, I do have something in the works for this winter. Stay tuned.

[xBlueStreakx]

My dad and I have been real track sluts as of late. Some pics.










Hoping to get back to Canadian Tire Motorsports Park (Mosport) one last time in October before calling it a season.

But first...



Also have this coming and I need to find out how to shoehorn it in.

[xBlueStreakx]

Been a while since I updated.

Set a new personal best at Mosport at the beginning for October. 1:34.28. Next year, the plan is to get into the 1:30.XX with Bridgestone RE71Rs. Stay tuned for progress over the winter!

But in the mean time...

[Datka]

Bridgestone RE71Rs are great tires but why not R-compound tires?
With hoosier R7s you may even brake 1:30 on that track.
You will need good amount of negative camber up front. What are your F/R camber settings?
For hoosiers you will need at least -3.5 up front.

[xBlueStreakx]

Originally Posted by Datka

Bridgestone RE71Rs are great tires but why not R-compound tires?
With hoosier R7s you may even brake 1:30 on that track.
You will need good amount of negative camber up front. What are your F/R camber settings?
For hoosiers you will need at least -3.5 up front.

Ah. My father and I track the car together. He's pretty new at this so he doesn't go very hard. Given that, we'd just be heat cycling a really good tire without extracting the performance it can give. Waste of money for sure.

Next year though, I plan on competing in some local CSCS events which has the Pirelli Trofeo R as the spec tire. I'll grab a set and swap back and forth.

Started the season with -2.5*F/-2.2*R and was up to -3.5F/-2.2*R by mid season. Tire wear up front flattened out but in the rear, the outside edge showed just a hair more wear than the inside. I still have the OEM camber links in the rear and was told by my shop that they were maxed out. I'll be upgrading to a spherical link in the back which should hopefully give me the camber I need.

However... I did some wheel rate calculations and the rear is severely under-sprung compared to the front (which explains a tendency to really understeer at the limit). I'll need to upgrade to 1000lbs springs out back (from 670lbs) to balance the front and rear so the added camber may not be necessary. Regardless, the spherical link will go in for performance reasons.

[GoodMoodley]

Very nice. Car looks fantastic.

I'm heading down to Mosport this weekend for the Advanced Driving School. First time on track was this past July. Lots of fun.

[xBlueStreakx]

Originally Posted by GoodMoodley

Very nice. Car looks fantastic.

I'm heading down to Mosport this weekend for the Advanced Driving School. First time on track was this past July. Lots of fun.

Awesome! Hopefully the weather holds out.

[TZANIDO777]

Almost at the same point as you...thinning wiring harness and on the fence about deleting the heater core/evaporator back there.

[xBlueStreakx]

Originally Posted by TZANIDO777

Almost at the same point as you...thinning wiring harness and on the fence about deleting the heater core/evaporator back there.

Looking good! You need to get a build thread going

I was on the fence about the heater core too. Decided to go with the Bimmerworld defrost kit and call it a day.