Fueling issue? Car is in safe mode! Codes included, HELP!

[SukSqueezeBangBlo]

So I pulled into my driveway and let my car idle for a few mins. After a few mins went by the car started jumping in rpm and sounding like a cam'd evo. I tried to back into my parking spot and i had to give the car full throttle to even move it slightly. I'm pretty sure it went into some kind of safe mode. I shut it off and read the codes which are posted below. Cleared the codes, went for a drive and the same codes came up again(also safe mode). Cleared the codes then drove again and only the 2C32 and 2C6C codes came up? Weird. HELP!


2D1C
2D1C Accelerator pedal module, pedal sensor signal 2
Error will not cause a warning light
Error is not currently present
Test conditions have been completed
Short circuit or signal interruption

Freeze Frame Information
Event 1Odometer 50912kms 31635miles
voltage pedal sensor 1 0.72 V
voltage pedal sensor 2 4.98 V
supply output encoder 2 5.04 V
voltage Kl. 87 13.41 V

Event 2Odometer 50912kms 31635miles
voltage pedal sensor 1 0.72 V
voltage pedal sensor 2 4.38 V
supply output encoder 2 5.04 V
voltage Kl. 87 10.05 V

Event 3Odometer 50912kms 31635miles
voltage pedal sensor 1 0.70 V
voltage pedal sensor 2 4.59 V
supply output encoder 2 5.04 V
voltage Kl. 87 9.95 V



29E2
29E2 Fuel injection rail, pressure sensor signal
Error will cause a warning light
Error is not currently present
Test conditions have been completed
Short circuit or signal interruption

Freeze Frame Information
Event 1Odometer 50912kms 31635miles
Engine speed 480.00 rpm
rail pressure 274,420.58 hPa
voltage of the fuel pressure sensor before mass control valve 2.34 V
average rail pressure 4.98 V

Event 2Odometer 50912kms 31635miles
Engine speed 544.00 rpm
rail pressure 274,420.58 hPa
voltage of the fuel pressure sensor before mass control valve 2.36 V
average rail pressure 4.98 V

Event 3Odometer 50912kms 31635miles
Engine speed 448.00 rpm
rail pressure 274,420.58 hPa
voltage of the fuel pressure sensor before mass control valve 2.30 V
average rail pressure 4.98 V



2D33
2D33 Absolute pressure sensor, intake pipe: Signal
Error will cause a warning light
Error is not currently present
Test conditions have been completed
Short circuit or signal interruption

Freeze Frame Information
Event 1Odometer 50912kms 31635miles
suction pipe pressure 120.00 kPa
Engine speed 480.00 rpm
Engine temperature 105.75 °C
status motor control 2.00 0-n

Event 2Odometer 50912kms 31635miles
suction pipe pressure 120.00 kPa
Engine speed 1,664.00 rpm
Engine temperature 98.25 °C
status motor control 2.00 0-n

Event 3Odometer 50912kms 31635miles
suction pipe pressure 120.00 kPa
Engine speed 1,664.00 rpm
Engine temperature 95.25 °C
status motor control 2.00 0-n



2ABC
2ABC Charging pressure sensor, electrical
Error will cause a warning light
Error is not currently present
Test conditions have been completed
Short circuit or signal interruption

Freeze Frame Information
Event 1Odometer 50912kms 31635miles
Engine speed 480.00 rpm
pressure in front of throttle valve 251.00 kPa
throttle valve actual value 0.00 °TPS
status motor control 2.00 0-n

Event 2Odometer 50912kms 31635miles
Engine speed 640.00 rpm
pressure in front of throttle valve 251.00 kPa
throttle valve actual value 0.00 °TPS
status motor control 2.00 0-n

Event 3Odometer 50912kms 31635miles
Engine speed 256.00 rpm
pressure in front of throttle valve 251.00 kPa
throttle valve actual value 13.07 °TPS
status motor control 2.00 0-n



3100
3100 boost-pressure control, deactivation
Error will not cause a warning light
Error is not currently present
Test conditions have been completed

[SukSqueezeBangBlo]

any suggestions would really help!

[SfValley335i]

If you have a tune, remove it and see if it still happens. If it occurs again, email the manufacturer of the tune. If you have no tune then take your car to a dealer/mechanic

[Freon]

I bet you have a bad ground some where.

If your accelerator pedal was failing it wouldn't cause fuel pressure to actually be wrong. Or if you had a bad MAP sensor it shouldn't cause fuel pump failure or accelerator pedal failure. Those just don't seem related besides grounding.

[SukSqueezeBangBlo]

Originally Posted by Freon

I bet you have a bad ground some where.

If your accelerator pedal was failing it wouldn't cause fuel pressure to actually be wrong. Or if you had a bad MAP sensor it shouldn't cause fuel pump failure or accelerator pedal failure. Those just don't seem related besides grounding.

Hmm thats weird, out of no where a bad ground?

[Freon]

Yes, it's odd. But slightly less odd than all those codes which don't have much to do with one another.

It makes no sense for the accelerator pedal sensor to fail at the same exact time as your fuel pump and MAP sensor fail. 120 kPa is about 17 psi, or 3 psi of boost. That's not a correct reading... And if pedal sensor 1 is reading 0.7v and sensor 2 is almost maxed out at 5v at idle it is failing. Also, I see the supply rail reading 10.05v amd 9.95v, which also says bad ground to me.

Maybe last time you took it in for service the ground wasn't tightened all the way on the battery, or likewise another ground somewhere in the engine bay. It's SOP to disconnect the battery when servicing a car. Plus, I have no idea if you have been doing anything under the hood of your car. Never assume!

I'd start by checking the battery terminals in the trunk. I don't know the engine and chassis grounds in the engine bay well enough, but there should be at least one big one to the engine block and likely cylinder head.

[SukSqueezeBangBlo]

Originally Posted by Freon

Yes, it's odd. But slightly less odd than all those codes which don't have much to do with one another.

It makes no sense for the accelerator pedal sensor to fail at the same exact time as your fuel pump and MAP sensor fail. 120 kPa is about 17 psi, or 3 psi of boost. That's not a correct reading... And if pedal sensor 1 is reading 0.7v and sensor 2 is almost maxed out at 5v at idle it is failing. Also, I see the supply rail reading 10.05v amd 9.95v, which also says bad ground to me.

Maybe last time you took it in for service the ground wasn't tightened all the way on the battery, or likewise another ground somewhere in the engine bay. It's SOP to disconnect the battery when servicing a car. Plus, I have no idea if you have been doing anything under the hood of your car. Never assume!

I'd start by checking the battery terminals in the trunk. I don't know the engine and chassis grounds in the engine bay well enough, but there should be at least one big one to the engine block and likely cylinder head.

Thank you for the advice, i removed the jb4 tune and it seems to be running normal. I think something went wrong with the tune( its been installed for over 3 months). Maybe there was a short circuit or something. I am going to check all the grounds and battery terminal, then re install the tune

[Mike@N54Tuning.com]

These are the codes triggered if the DME is powered up while the tune is disconnected. Either during the install if you forgot to remove the battery cable or something is loose or wrong with the install.

Mike

[SukSqueezeBangBlo]

Originally Posted by Mike@N54Tuning.com

These are the codes triggered if the DME is powered up while the tune is disconnected. Either during the install if you forgot to remove the battery cable or something is loose or wrong with the install.

Mike

its weird the tune has been on for awhile with no codes what so ever, then all of a sudden this happens. Nothing was touched or changed.

[WPG D33Z]

Maybe a wire came loose and shorted. Try reinstalling the tune and see if it comes back. Perhaps your JB is broken.

[SukSqueezeBangBlo]

Originally Posted by WPG D33Z

Maybe a wire came loose and shorted. Try reinstalling the tune and see if it comes back. Perhaps your JB is broken.

Yeah or the software is corrupt. If it is still messed up ill update the firmware.

[SukSqueezeBangBlo]

Update: Re installed the jb4 and updated the software. Car seems to run just fine now, i bet it just needed to be updated/recovered.

Thanks for all your help!