DIY: Whiteline rear subframe inserts

[Naoto]

Originally Posted by Gray_Panther

Quoting those "orignales" who did the install about two years ago. How have the inserts held up over time? Has the effect decreased? Any issues with the rear subframe bolts loosening?

I would love to install these while I am installing koni yellows and eibach springs.

my inserts still feel the same as they did when I first installed them. I also rechecked the bolts last weekend and nothing has loosened.

no ride height difference with these inserts for me either.

[loesch]

Originally Posted by 02rsxpilot

No ride height change for me. At least not a detectable one. Certainly not a 1/2 inch.

Car was excellent on track last week. Much more stable in corners and under braking.

What torque did you use on the subframe bolts during install? Did you then re-torque them later?

[02rsxpilot]

Originally Posted by loesch

What torque did you use on the subframe bolts during install? Did you then re-torque them later?

Hey Loesch, I used 74 ft. lbs. which felt plenty tight. I have not re-torqued them as nothing in the car's performance has indicated they might be loose. I might check them out of curiosity the next time I have the rear wheels off, but really not that concerned.

[E82MSport]

I figure I'd add to this, what's one more positive review. For the time, money and improvement this should be on anyone's list not wanting to invest in M3 bushings.

About the install -

The instructions supplied are straight forward and if followed correctly make this a 2 hr max job. That includes jacking the car into position and properly supporting the vehicle.

The true key is not to remove the front bolts (both the subframe and cross brace) but to loosen within 4 threads. This allows you to keep the subframe positioned while the rear bolts are removed and give you enough room at the rear to install properly.

I'll take a moment and state the supplied grease is more than enough to properly coat all the contact surfaces of the inserts. I do recommend spraying some soapy water or spray detailer into the cavities of the bushings in order to help with lubrication and generally clean out and dirt or grime.

The instructions list paired part numbers to make it straight forward that identify which inserts go in the front or rear. The alignment of the bushing inserts as others stated is very easy to identify, as the bottom inserts are keyed and the tops only go one way.

Installing the rear was quite easy and you can basically squeeze the two parts into the bushing with your hands to get them positioned properly. The full engagement of the inserts is done with tightening the subframe bolts. Make sure to watch as you tighten to make sure both inserts are properly seated. I chose to run the bolts in all the way to seat the inserts before starting work on the fronts. After the inserts were compressed and seated I then backed the bolts out within about 4 threads to give enough clearance to install the fronts.

On the front I basically repeated the process of the rear, although I chose to install the top inserts on both sides so that I wouldn't have to go back and fourth an additional two times. With the top inserts in place I used a small pry bar to force the insert into the bushing because I couldn't quite get my hands in to squeeze it in due to limited space. Once that was completed I installed the bottom inserts, raised the subframe and installed the subframe bolts. I then evenly tightened all 4 subframe bolts to the point I could install the cross brace bolts and then proceeded to do the final tightening. My final step was to torque the subframe bolts to 74 ft-lbs and the cross brace bolts I set at 60 ft-lbs. I guessed the cross brace bolt torque since I didn't have the actual spec.

Just wanted to say I didn't see a difference in ride height at all. Still measured out the same as before without the inserts.

With everything buttoned up and installed I went out for a drive and here are my impressions.

Immediately I noticed the ride was improved, the rear of the vehicle seemed connected. The stock bushings are quite soft so this wasn't a big surprise. I would say this is probably the stiffness level the car should have came from the factory. I doubt this is as good as the M3 bushings but for the time and money it leaves me satisfied. If this was any stiffer I'd probably want higher rate springs, as bushings and suspension complement each other.

For anyone on the fence I'd say do it.

[2010MSPORT335i]

Originally Posted by mike082802

cant really tell the difference that much. didnt really push the car hard. im putting koni yellows and bmw ps on tomorrow so i will get an alignment next week. i think the passenger front bushing rotated 90 degrees while tightening but i was too spent to redo it. before the alignment i'll check. the car pulls to the left ever so slightly, wasnt like that before. im going to get a new bolt from bmw and redo the one i stripped before the alignment.

Did you ever find out why the car is pulling slightly to the left now?

I'm having the same issue, gonna re-check all of the torque settings.

[Pissoff]

Originally Posted by loesch

I would like to comment on ride height since there seems to be some confusion. These DO increase ride height in the rear by about 1/2 inch. I'm pretty disappointed by that. When I first installed them I was on stock M sport suspension and I thought there was a slight difference but wasn't positive. I just installed a set of Eibach Pro-Kit lowering springs (2097.140) and you can definitely see about a 1/2 inch difference from front to rear.

You say you just added springs also. I am thinking that the control arm bolts got tightened up without the suspension being fully loaded. This can and will affect ride height. Others who have put the inserts on have just done that hence no ride height change.

[loesch]

Originally Posted by Coleroad

You say you just added springs also. I am thinking that the control arm bolts got tightened up without the suspension being fully loaded. This can and will affect ride height. Others who have put the inserts on have just done that hence no ride height change.

Good thought but I made sure to loosen those before hand. It's so minor now I think a lot of what I was seeing was due to the car being just lowered down off the jack. Once the wheels roll the rear lowers quite a bit.

[KNS]

I'm thinking of these for my 128. One or two of you have mentioned a bit more harshness, is that what most here have found? Anybody else had these for 30,000 miles or more?

Also, just curious, what does the bushing material feel like..? A hard rubber or more of a polyurethane?

Excellent write up BTW!

[Pissoff]

Originally Posted by KNS

I'm thinking of these for my 128. One or two of you have mentioned a bit more harshness, is that what most here have found? Anybody else had these for 30,000 miles or more?

Also, just curious, what does the bushing material feel like..? A hard rubber or more of a polyurethane?

Excellent write up BTW!

It is a polyurethane. I personally don't notice extra NVH. They have held up well for me.

[KNS]

Well, I went ahead and installed the Whiteline inserts in the rear of my non sport 128i. One of the original factory bushings was leaking out its oil. Surprising as the car has less than 30,000 miles.

The install was straight forward (this is a great thread!). My right rear side of the car is about 1/8 inch higher which is strange and I'll have to look into that and recheck torque later on. My original measurements might have been slightly off...

Definite improvement in the car's handling (I've got non runflats). I'm even getting a little bit of tire squeal in hard corning - never had that before. Eventually I may get the M3 bushings or something similar but these are well worth the time and money.

[PG]

did the install today on M-sport 135i. Very easy install if you have the correct tools. All about prep-work. Only hardest thing for me was getting the damn wheels off he hub (why does ze germans make everything difficult).
Car feels more planted and doesn't crash over bumps like it did before (running PSS). Not a bad mod!

[04gto]

I got these slightly used from another forum member for $25. Install was pretty easy. Took about 1 hour 45 minutes.

How does it feel? It makes a huge difference, especially under acceleration. No more squatting. Also helps a lot when going through corners, expecially bumpy ones. No more wiggle. You go into a turn and it just sets up better. Because the rear is not dancing around so much, the steering is much more direct, accurate and confidence inspiring. Makes just a little more of an audible thump noise that you can feel a bit more. I think these are about as firm as you would want for a DD in Los Angeles. If you really have a good feel and are a viscerally connected driver, you will notice the difference right when you pull out of your driveway onto the street. It really is that noticeable. Compliments my new ECS FSB perfectly. Best bang for the time/buck I have done to this car. I wish I would have done this sooner. Thank you OP and everyone for your valuable contributions to this thread.

[Gangplank]

Good to hear. I planning to get mine on the car this week. Nice!!

[martinblair]

I installed mine on Saturday. Considering the little cost involved, and the couple of hours it took me to do, it is a noticeable and much needed improvement on my Touring. I ordered my new Bilstein suspension kit last week, figured I should get these installed quick so I can try and isolate the improvement before doing the rest of the suspension.
Considering my low level of DIY ability, these were quite reasonable to do on my own.

[mr.fabulous]

This is a rear bushing from my car, from the ground looking up. Not much wiggle-room? Looks new.

I bought a Whiteline insert kit shortly after buying my car CPO 14mos ago and reading this thread (*very* good stuff, btw). I've been sitting on this since, waiting for temps around here to cool to where I can actually spend a few quality hours in my garage without melting. Just about getting ready.... but I've always wondered if the RSFBs in my car were factory, as I don't believe I feel the slop many of you guys do. And so I took a peak tonight. Well, mine are clearly stock (rats).

I suppose I'll get around to it.....

[mr.fabulous]

Originally Posted by loesch

What torque did you use on the subframe bolts during install?

tightening torque (Bentley): subframe to body 100nm (74 ft-lb), replace fasteners

[HyeWarrior]

Tagged for later

[Gangplank]

I thought the bolts could be reused?

[04gto]

Originally Posted by Gangplank

I thought the bolts could be reused?

I re-used mine. No problem.

[squidge]

This thread was very helpful for my installation yesterday.

One difference on my 2013. The two bolts on each side that hold the cross brace to the front of the subframe were held on by torx-head bolts rather than the 16mm bolts in the OP. I used a female torx bit to remove them. I can't remember the size but it wasn't E18, so just buy yourself a good set. Heads up to newer production date owners.

Only bummer is the 16mm gearwrench was naturally the one I'd lost out of my set and I spent $15 to replace it before I did the job. Oh well, it'll have its moment some day...

[tjswarbrick]

Will refer to your DIY when I install inserts next week. I got the PowerFlex Black, though.
Been reading on this for a year - first I noticed the E18 socket. Just ordered one of those, along with replacement bolts.
I need to check to see if the brace bolts on my 2012 are Hex or Torx...

[Freon]

Originally Posted by Gangplank

I thought the bolts could be reused?

Depends on who you ask. I believe the reason they're marked as replacement by BMW is due to an anti-corrosion coating. They're far too light to be steel or iron, therefore I do not think they are stretch bolts. Al and Mg are not suitable materials for stretching.