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      03-25-2014, 09:13 PM   #111
SteveAZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pj.rodriguez View Post
Hmm.. That's interesting that it took you a lot of fiddling around to get them out. Would you mind elaborating a little bit on what you did to finally get the bushings out? I'm sure after the first one, you knew exactly how to approach the other 3?

Just trying to get a perspective on how much time I actually need to put away to do this myself.

Thanks a lot!
Read posts 38 and 39 of this thread....this doesn't have to be that hard.
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      03-26-2014, 10:10 AM   #112
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I have a set of AKG Motorsport 95A (black) bushings ready to go in this weekend along with my TCKline DA coilovers. Thanks to SteveAZ for posting up details of what worked well for you!
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      03-26-2014, 10:23 AM   #113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSavela View Post
I have a set of AKG Motorsport 95A (black) bushings ready to go in this weekend along with my TCKline DA coilovers. Thanks to SteveAZ for posting up details of what worked well for you!
Make sure they are the right size before you install them. AKG has had some issues recently with their subframe bushings for other cars.
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      03-26-2014, 10:42 AM   #114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ian48 View Post
Right so figured I should come back and post results from this. Did the install my self and took about two and a half days. Had a friend of mine help me and our mechanical experience includes spark plugs and tire rotations.
This involved a lot of scavenging the garage for parts and a lot, I mean a lot of trial and error to get the bushings out. They make this seem easy in the diys. It needs a massive amount of force to get the rears and fair amount of heat.
Once those were out though getting the new ones in is really easy. Didn't have to take anything off except for the rear break lines. I did the 95A akg bushings and man can you feel the difference. This is my only suspension mod at the moment. Even so, the difference is staggering. It feels like the car is now one entity instead of two trying to rip each other apart.
The nvh has gone up a bit but that is partially due to the condition of the rear tires.
It's not a difficult job ( once you figure out how to get them out) my various methods included screw drivers, drills, wrench scaffolding. If you have the tool though I guess you can ignore all of that.
Here is the first bushing
You didn't do the two-jacks and heat gun approach? Guys were getting their bushings out in a matter of minutes that way, not days!!!
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      03-26-2014, 10:49 AM   #115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSavela View Post
I have a set of AKG Motorsport 95A (black) bushings ready to go in this weekend along with my TCKline DA coilovers. Thanks to SteveAZ for posting up details of what worked well for you!
Please post your experiences and lessons learned regarding the install when you get the chance. I am sure myself and others who are planning to do the install in the future would really appreciate it. Also would love to hear your thoughts on how you like the bushings once they are in. Last but not least, good luck!
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      03-26-2014, 08:16 PM   #116
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Thanks for the warning Stig.
I will definitely comment on how things go and offer any pointers I come up with.
I feel like I've read about someone doing this without disconnecting the rear brake line, but I can't find the post. To those that have done this already, can it be done with the brake lines still connected? I'd rather avoid the hassle if I can.
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      03-28-2014, 05:35 AM   #117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSavela View Post
Thanks for the warning Stig.
I will definitely comment on how things go and offer any pointers I come up with.
I feel like I've read about someone doing this without disconnecting the rear brake line, but I can't find the post. To those that have done this already, can it be done with the brake lines still connected? I'd rather avoid the hassle if I can.
I'd just keep a close eye on them. When I did mine, I originally started out with another DIY that said to disconnect them and then changed the methodology mid stream for the bushing removal. I have since lowered my sub frame pretty far when I did my LSD without disconnecting the brakes and they were fine. Be sure to unclip the pad wear sensor cables from the subframe though. Also, I have SS lines...so keep an eye on them and report back. And you're right, I believe somebody else has already confirmed it can be done...may have been earlier in this thread.
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      03-28-2014, 07:36 AM   #118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSavela View Post
To those that have done this already, can it be done with the brake lines still connected? I'd rather avoid the hassle if I can.
Given the scale of dropping the rear subframe, disconnecting the rear brake lines is so simple and such a good idea that it doesn't even register on the hassle-meter. Why would you risk damaging a line when it is so easy to disconnect the lines without spilling a drop of fluid? Obviously the clamps need to be just tight enough to pinch off the flow. You can't do that with SS braided lines, but alternately you could block the pedal at half stroke to stop flow from the reservoir, bleed off rear pressure in the lines a the rear brake bleeder, then disconnect the lines without them dripping. Capping or at least bagging the ends of the lines is necessary to keep contamination out while you work. If it is really dirty under there, wash it and blow it down with air before disconnecting the lines.

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      03-28-2014, 11:28 AM   #119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fe1rx View Post
Given the scale of dropping the rear subframe, disconnecting the rear brake lines is so simple and such a good idea that it doesn't even register on the hassle-meter.
Never underestimate people's desire to be cheap/lazy when it comes to cars.

Which most amusingly usually ends up costing them more.
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      03-28-2014, 04:48 PM   #120
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I tried the original heat and two jack stands method at first. That was the first thing I tried but I was having no luck. They said to heat for about 20 seconds or so. I did this and no luck. No I did not use a conventional press. What I ended up doing was going back to the heat method but really heating them up and using a press I made with the threaded rod and some wood I had laying around. After I figured out how to work that one it took, without exaggeration, 10 minutes to get the three other ones out. And then bolting it all back up and bleeding brakes was another hour and a half to two hours with breaks taken every so often.
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      03-28-2014, 10:26 PM   #121
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Just got done with installing the AKG bushings. It took us under two hours. Here are a few details about my experience. Overall, it was not difficult by any means. Everything came apaet easily and smoothly. We used two jacks, a torch and a large, shallow socket to press them out. I think it was a 20mm or so. It took a good amount of heat, to the point where the bushing was smoking a bit. Just be patient and it'll come out. I left the brake lines connected, but we kept a close eye on them the whole time. For the rears, the car's weight wasn't enough to get them out, so I had two friends sit in the trunk. After they sat in there, they came right out. That's about it. If anyone has a specific question, let me know. Like steveAZ said, this is way easier than people make it out to be. If you have the tools and are comfortable using them, you'll be just fine.
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      03-29-2014, 05:32 AM   #122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ian48 View Post
I tried the original heat and two jack stands method at first. That was the first thing I tried but I was having no luck. They said to heat for about 20 seconds or so. I did this and no luck. No I did not use a conventional press. What I ended up doing was going back to the heat method but really heating them up and using a press I made with the threaded rod and some wood I had laying around. After I figured out how to work that one it took, without exaggeration, 10 minutes to get the three other ones out. And then bolting it all back up and bleeding brakes was another hour and a half to two hours with breaks taken every so often.
I don't know where you read " 20 seconds or so" but it sure wasn't from me. It takes a little patience for sure. Either way...glad you were able to get it done. Nice job!

Quote:
Originally Posted by JSavela View Post
Just got done with installing the AKG bushings. It took us under two hours. Here are a few details about my experience. Overall, it was not difficult by any means. Everything came apaet easily and smoothly. We used two jacks, a torch and a large, shallow socket to press them out. I think it was a 20mm or so. It took a good amount of heat, to the point where the bushing was smoking a bit. Just be patient and it'll come out. I left the brake lines connected, but we kept a close eye on them the whole time. For the rears, the car's weight wasn't enough to get them out, so I had two friends sit in the trunk. After they sat in there, they came right out. That's about it. If anyone has a specific question, let me know. Like steveAZ said, this is way easier than people make it out to be. If you have the tools and are comfortable using them, you'll be just fine.
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      04-01-2014, 08:23 AM   #123
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Just completed this install (Whiteline bushings) on Saturday. I would not consider this to be a difficult job, as long as you are careful and pay attention to what you are doing while dropping the sub-frame. The actual pulling/install process isn't difficult, just time consuming.

I ended up making my own bushing puller from some 3-3/4" ID pipe for the rear, and 3-1/4" ID pipe for the front along with a thin piece of large OD aluminum round bar with a shoulder cut into it to fit into the ID the pipe so the threaded rod remains centered axially (I have access to a lathe at work). It only took about 10 minutes (and some elbow grease) to actually pull each bushing out once I got access to it.

I can't really comment on the performance yet as the weather here in NY has been ridiculous over the past few days. However I did drive it on Sunday for a bit and the the car just feels very solid all around, like it's actually once piece instead of two. And even when taking turns at normal speeds the whole suspension just seems to be working better.

I also just ditched the RFTs for some PSS, so they should compliment each other nicely once the weather gets better!
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      04-02-2014, 03:55 PM   #124
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sorry for my noobish question. im planning on doing aftermarket prothane bushings with my coilover install:

do these aftermarket prothane bushings completely replace the stockers? they're just easier to install than m3 bushings right?
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      04-02-2014, 08:48 PM   #125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wildacex187
sorry for my noobish question. im planning on doing aftermarket prothane bushings with my coilover install:

do these aftermarket prothane bushings completely replace the stockers? they're just easier to install than m3 bushings right?
Yeah, they replace the entire stock bushings. The aftermarket alternatives are an easier install and in some cases, offer an even stiffer option than the M3 bushings. I did the bushings along with my coilovers last weekend and the bushings were no more difficult than everything else I did.
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      04-06-2014, 10:09 PM   #126
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Installed a set of white line subframe bushings today using a heat gun, and a the largest socket (not deepwell) in my Craftsman set. That's all it takes to push these out.

Worked great. Took about 3 min of heat per bushing, and they slid right out.
I had one that wasn't coming and a moved the jack to a better spot and it came right out.

Thanks for the pics and steps earlier in this thread Steve!
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      04-16-2014, 12:38 PM   #127
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Quick question. Are you guys loosening one side at a time? for example, on the drivers side, you remove the wheel, strut, spring, front and rear subframe bushing bolts, and that will be give enough room to slide a socket in to push the bushing out? Or would you have to remove the passenger side subframe bushing bolts as well to do the drivers side?
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      04-16-2014, 01:14 PM   #128
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Originally Posted by houtan View Post
Quick question. Are you guys loosening one side at a time? for example, on the drivers side, you remove the wheel, strut, spring, front and rear subframe bushing bolts, and that will be give enough room to slide a socket in to push the bushing out? Or would you have to remove the passenger side subframe bushing bolts as well to do the drivers side?
yes, you need to at a minimum loosen the passenger side subframe bolts (I removed them). I dont know. You might/could bend the passenger side bolts by leaving them in, I would just pull them out with the subframe supported by a floor jack in the middle of the diff.

you'll see when you get in there. there is limited movement on the drivers side due to the brake lines, and lot of room on the passenger side. I did the drivers side first, all slow and careful, then the passenger side was done quick.

This mod is worth the work! I love the handling now.
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      04-16-2014, 04:04 PM   #129
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Ok, that makes sense. So the jack is always on the diff, and the second jack is used to push out the bushing, and you adjust the height of the jack on the diff as you adjust the height of the jack used to push out the bushing so everything stays somewhat level. Does that sound right?
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      04-16-2014, 08:09 PM   #130
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Originally Posted by houtan View Post
Ok, that makes sense. So the jack is always on the diff, and the second jack is used to push out the bushing, and you adjust the height of the jack on the diff as you adjust the height of the jack used to push out the bushing so everything stays somewhat level. Does that sound right?
Yeah, that's the idea.

With the car on jack stands using the rear jack points. I lowered the entire subframe (a few inches onto the jack supporting the diff (call this jack one). Figure which one you are going to start with and get the socket between the bushing and the frame mount. I then used jack two to lift up on the subframe right next to the bushing (for this I used a 16" long 4x4 I had laying around and a 36mm socket) I used the 36mm socket as it was a decent size to push against the subframe beside the bushing.
Lift jack two until the car is 1/4"-1/2" off the jack point on the side you are working. Heat (this took me 2-2.5 min with my heat gun on high, you'll start smelling rubber). Raise the jack as need while the bushing slides out. Once the bushing is 2/3 out you can wack it with a rubber mallet and they come right out.
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      04-17-2014, 01:41 AM   #131
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Cool. Thanks.
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      06-12-2014, 05:06 PM   #132
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Does anyone know if Whiteline changed their bushing's material or color? I ordered what I thought was the right part, KDT917, but the ones I got are black instead of the pictured yellow. Has anyone else had this happen, I wonder if I got the wrong ones and need to send them back. Their is a sticker on the bag that does list KDT917 which is what Whiteline list on their site for the e82 and had been referenced earlier in this thread.
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