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      03-15-2012, 10:47 AM   #67
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Ok Gary. I understand. As i said before, hopefully RB ppl respond soon.
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      03-15-2012, 11:17 AM   #68
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I drove for 8 months with calipers that needed new boots. Just a data point.
Race rubber could help the brake situation since you would be braking for shorter distances - maybe?

Kori - not trail brake? That's just crazy talk! Perhaps an option would be taking a fast lap, then a slower lap to keep the brakes cool. I agree that we're not in a race, certainly don't want to drive beyond our means/cars capabilities and want to come home with no dents!; but it's also fun to learn how to go faster.

How did you loose nearly 300lbs from your car?!
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      03-15-2012, 12:42 PM   #69
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My car is bare bone with only cold weather package & M sport package. Wheels are only 15 lbs each. The slicks are also 7 lbs lighter than RFT. Don't get me wrong, I'm all about going fast but you have to drive within the cars capabilities
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      03-16-2012, 08:00 PM   #70
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It seems my 7 x 20 minutes is a new world's record.
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      03-16-2012, 09:19 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GaryS View Post
It seems my 7 x 20 minutes is a new world's record.
holy crap! even my EBC Ultimax Slotted Rotors with DTC-70/60 have gone through 5 track days now, braking hard and late.. and they're still in really good condition.

I was really looking forward for a set of RB floating rotors, but this kinda puts me off.. hopefully it's just a bad batch.
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      03-16-2012, 10:48 PM   #72
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I have brand new RB rotors looking nice and clean for now. I wonder if they look the same as Garys rotor in that picture after my first event of this season coming up in april
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      03-16-2012, 11:04 PM   #73
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Mine aren't much better. As of now they are trying to blame it on our calipers.
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      03-17-2012, 06:54 AM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Groundpilot View Post
I have brand new RB rotors looking nice and clean for now. I wonder if they look the same as Garys rotor in that picture after my first event of this season coming up in april
If you were with us last weekend, we'd know whether steel pistons would have prevented the damage, as RB seems to be saying. I know less about brakes than anyone, but I find that hard to believe.

Anyway, I've had enough and am ordering a BBK on Monday. Joe, Chris, Kori, I have one set of brand new DTC-70 front pads and one set of brand new BMW Performance front rotors for sale, best price anywhere. Er Chris, please cancel my order for caliper bolts if that's okay.

Now to rub some salt in my wounds, at noon today I'm scheduled for a BMW club DIY on servicing the brakes that I'm going to replace. Can anyone think of something else I should learn instead?
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      03-17-2012, 10:49 AM   #75
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Pixelblue, I tryed cooling ducts and they helped but still did not do what was needed. Also added the BMW sloted and drilled rottors and ruined them. Here are some not so good pics of the cooling ducts. This was done back in 2009.
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      03-17-2012, 11:41 AM   #76
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Originally Posted by Focusedintntions View Post
Mine aren't much better. As of now they are trying to blame it on our calipers.
so they are not even giving you replacement rings? that is totally bogus and their reputation will be ruined because of this. Racing Brakes my ass...

@Buzz135 that is an interesting method to scoop air. what was your pad/fluid setup?

Gary what are you planning to get?
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      03-17-2012, 12:36 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pixelblue View Post
so they are not even giving you replacement rings? that is totally bogus and their reputation will be ruined because of this. Racing Brakes my ass...

@Buzz135 that is an interesting method to scoop air. what was your pad/fluid setup?

Gary what are you planning to get?
Pixelblue, At that photo I think I still had stock pads and ATE fluid, I did use with the cooling ducts Hawk HP+ with BMW slotted and drilled rotors. Did not have T shims back then or RB rotors. I just could not seem to address all the heat issues with the changes I made. It is really hard to get cooling ducts to fit under our cars without pinching the ducting or cutting the front for an opening.
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      03-17-2012, 01:11 PM   #78
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Buzz, I've never been a big fan of Hawk and ATE products. I think with a better pad/fluid setup you would have faired better. getting some air in there would make a world of difference. where did you find that scoop in your setup?
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      03-17-2012, 02:33 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pixelblue View Post
so they are not even giving you replacement rings? that is totally bogus and their reputation will be ruined because of this. Racing Brakes my ass...

@Buzz135 that is an interesting method to scoop air. what was your pad/fluid setup?

Gary what are you planning to get?
He offered a partial refund. Whatever. The price for a real BBK is so crazy, in comparison the loss on RB rotors seems small.

I'm planning ST-60 in front and stock in back. The price is insane. The guys at Induktion also have some ducting idea they want to try.
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      03-17-2012, 03:02 PM   #80
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Gary, anything below $3k would be sweet. I saw on TC Kline's web site selling brembo GT 6 piston kit for $3395. if your shop is charging anything near this price for ST60 you should reconsider
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      03-17-2012, 04:59 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pixelblue View Post
Buzz, I've never been a big fan of Hawk and ATE products. I think with a better pad/fluid setup you would have faired better. getting some air in there would make a world of difference. where did you find that scoop in your setup?
They have them at Pelican Parts, I may have got them there but may have been somewhere else. I know I purchased all the parts seperate and made the inlet to the rotor
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      03-17-2012, 05:05 PM   #82
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Look here for the F30 backing plate install !!!

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=663510
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      03-18-2012, 08:54 AM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buzz135 View Post
I just could not seem to address all the heat issues with the changes I made.
Buzz135 are your rear brakes still stock?

edit: I found it, still stock in back, thanks.
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      03-18-2012, 09:19 AM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Focusedintntions View Post
Mine aren't much better. As of now they are trying to blame it on our calipers.
I just remembered, don't your calipers have steel pistons?
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      03-18-2012, 09:41 AM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GaryS View Post
Buzz135 are your rear brakes still stock?

edit: I found it, still stock in back, thanks.
GaryS yes, I have had good luck with the Stop Tech BBK in the front and stock in the back. I did upgrade when I replaced my rear rottor to a slotted rear but the stock rear was fine.

I am sure someone will figure out how to address the heat issue in the stock fronts at the track but I got tired of spending money and working on it and then going to the track and on second lap at Thunderhill and going into turn 10 and not having any brakes. I am on my 3rd set of pads on the Stop Tech BBK including the Stop tech that came with the BBK, Hawk HP+ and now DS 2500. And they have all worked for me, I do like the DS 2500 the best.
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      03-18-2012, 12:06 PM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Focusedintntions View Post
Mine aren't much better. As of now they are trying to blame it on our calipers.
What is the theory behind blaming the calipers ??? too strong, too weak, not enough surface area, ?????? what ?? whats the technical reason ?? i dont get it...

i could understand pad choice overheating, but again whats that got to do with the calipers..
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      03-18-2012, 12:18 PM   #87
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it's just a copout. the crappy oe rotors are better which btw are not racing rotors. at the least, they screwed up with the material when they made their batch of rotors
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      03-18-2012, 12:33 PM   #88
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If it was a bad batch of rotors why wouldnt they admit it? Maybe because they dont want to issue the full refund and came up with BS like blaming our calipers that are just fine with other brand rotors?
I am seriously considering to return my new RB rotors before they are destroyed after one track day.
What do you guys think?
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