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06-29-2011, 04:49 PM | #23 | |
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http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=450160 |
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06-29-2011, 04:53 PM | #24 |
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that post says:
***The heater closing panel may have to be removed or slightly modified to install the M3 strut tower brace on 2011 vehicles. It's number 13 in the parts illustration drawing*** Does the 1M use the same parts as the M3? I would pick this up if I knew for sure it was a direct bolt in with zero modification and verified it was the smae setup as the 1M.
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06-29-2011, 06:28 PM | #25 | |
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2011 and later cars will require minor mods or a heater panel from 2010 and earlier cars. Last edited by HP Autosport; 06-30-2011 at 12:08 AM.. |
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06-29-2011, 10:49 PM | #26 |
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Direct bolt in if you order from the HPA site. It's what's on the 1M also.
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07-05-2011, 10:13 AM | #28 |
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400 F, 600 R
I have been advised that because of the geometry of the rear suspension (the spring acts on a lever arm), the effective spring rates are about even on all four corners. I also raised my car a couple times after the initial installation: first the fronts to eliminate rubbing, then the rears to re-gain rake to reduce a front-end-floating sensation at ludicrous speed.
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07-05-2011, 10:39 AM | #29 | |
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In addition, with 600# R you must be careful not to run the car too low, otherwise the rear suspension will likley to sit or bottom out on the rear bump stops and cause some undesirable handling characteristics. |
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07-05-2011, 11:54 AM | #30 | |
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07-05-2011, 08:31 PM | #31 |
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A more common setup would be 400F and 800R.
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07-06-2011, 08:36 AM | #32 |
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350/700 isn't enough after i've been driving on these for a while. Good balance between comfort and performance but its not an all out track setup.
I would almost say that 450/800 might be a good setup... This winter I'm going to move up to stiffer springs and get the koni's rebuilt... love this setup for daily driving though
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07-06-2011, 10:47 AM | #33 | |
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I must apologize for my mistake, please allow myself to correct... myself: Because the rear springs act on lever-arms, the effective (wheel) spring rate is reduced (from 600 pounds per inch), so it is closer to the front spring rate (400 pounds per inch) than the specifications suggest. Maybe they aren't all about the same. Or maybe your idea of "about the same" is different than mine. Maybe the rear end is a little softer than the front. Whatever the actual rates are, and how they compare to each other, and why he chose those springs...I don't really care. It's currently not my job to figure that stuff out and I trust my adviser to figure those things out for me. He is an expert.
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07 R1200R 08 135i [SOLD] 98 M3/4 [SOLD] Last edited by spk74; 07-06-2011 at 11:06 AM.. |
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07-06-2011, 10:57 AM | #34 |
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It really depends on what you are doing with the car. For the street 350# F and 700# R works well. A dual purpose car would be 400# F and 800# R(rear subframe bushing replacement recommended). If you are more of a track guy, you will find 450# F or higher better suited for the car.
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07-06-2011, 01:21 PM | #35 |
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I have KW3 Coilovers and after 1 track day quickly realized that springs vere to soft for the track. I dont remember the spring rate of KWs but i do know that their s.rate is a little higher than stock springs. Many thanks To Harold from HPA who suggested to install swift springs 400/800 and the car now feels like a go kart with BFG R1 tires( 245/265). I do have m3 conversion kit and vorshlag plates as well.
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07-06-2011, 02:00 PM | #36 | |
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07-06-2011, 02:16 PM | #37 |
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I would go 450 up front but it would be undrivable on the street. Its very stiff as it is now since my shocks are set for almost full stiff and i dont change it. I go to the track and come back with very soft street tires and i dont drive it on the street if i dont have to since there are two other cars in my garage as daily drivers.
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07-08-2011, 05:59 PM | #39 |
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Hey Steven, if you're at the SASCA event this weekend, I'd like to visit with you about your car and the suspension upgrades you've done so far. You had very nice times at the recent Spokes/SASCA autocross, so it looks like the car is working well. I've ordered a 2012 135i coupe and I'm starting to investigate upgrades.
Edit: I canceled the 135 and found a 1M allocation. It would still be helpful to see what you've done with your 135 setup. Last edited by Texas F1; 07-09-2011 at 09:00 PM.. Reason: changed cars |
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07-11-2011, 10:39 AM | #41 | |
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the 1M should be really competitive out there. Your best bet will be a full coilover setup on that car with as close to -3 degrees camber up front and -2.5 camber in the rear. Camber, tires, and seat time have been the way I've been dropping my times in the autox. I ran the car on stock suspension and got absolutely smoked by everyone. When you get your 1M i would love to meet up and get a ride and see whether I want to dump the 135 for one...
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07-11-2011, 10:52 AM | #42 |
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It's not that hard actually. I have a 245 up front aswell.
You just need proper offsets |
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07-11-2011, 11:48 AM | #43 |
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07-11-2011, 12:00 PM | #44 | |
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I have 245/40 17s on my car and I got confused. haha whoops |
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