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      10-26-2012, 09:08 PM   #1
Jmanscotch
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Clutch Failure - 35K Miles

Well, it's been an interesting week...

The story begins with a 33K mile 135i that was purchased two months ago as a CPO. When purchased, the car behaved normally, clutch grabbed where it should and grabbed strong (CDV is still installed though).

One evening, about a week before failure, I was driving a little spirited with DSC OFF (or DTC I guess) and during some attempted wheel spin, the clutch decided to slip like crazy and I was rewarded with the enjoyable smell of burnt clutch material. I drove for another week, no issues to speak of (still driving spirited daily).

Now this past weekend, with about 35K miles now on the car, she decided to fail completely on me. While driving back from the store, very casually/non-spirited, the clutch slipped and revs built while I slowed in speed, then I heard a 'pop' and the clutch grabbed again and off I went.

Shorty after that, I realized that the clutch wouldn't disengage..I was stuck in 3rd gear. I managed to make it back to my apartment and yank it out of gear before nailing the parking curb...that was a bit nerve racking. So, step out of the car to be greeted by clutch aroma once again. I let her cool off some and tried to start her again, but was facing the same problem; clutch wouldn't allow for gear change input. I could start in a gear and she'd go just fine, but I couldn't change gears nor enter any gear if in nuetral.

So, I called and had it towed to the local stealership.

The SA was mostly friendly, but did warn that clutches were a 'sensitive subject' regarding warranty coverage. I told him I was aware, but I had not abused the car, only driven spirited like it was meant to be treated and that research on the forums showed an abnormal amount of low mileage clutch failures on the N54 equipped Bimmers. We then parted ways and I waited for the call.

Dealerships verdict:

- The pressure plate mounting bolts had backed out completely, allowing the pressure plate to collide with the clutch in a catastrophic manner.

Now, knowing how the clutch was acting (would propel the car forward just fine, with no clanks/rattling that'd be indicative of the pressure plate being loose in the transmission and free to move clank up against the clutch) I wasn't so sure I agreed with that verdict, but as it was going to be 100% covered under the 4 year/50K mile factory warranty...I didn't bother asking for more details.

Just figured I'd put my story out there as I know theres others that might encounter this down the road...Sorry, no pictures of the carnage, if they produce some for me I'll be happy to post them here at that time. Clutch is ordered and will be installed next week. Cost to me: Free tow. Free loaner. Free repair.

A picture offering since I hate threads without pictures

- Jake

Disclaimer* I've driven manuals all of my life, only ever owned 1 automatic. Many of those have been BMWs, most with much higher mileage and I've never once had a clutch problem in any vehicle I've owned. I drive spirited, but not abusive and I don't see this failure as a result of my driving.

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      10-26-2012, 09:25 PM   #2
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I have pretty much the same story as you. My SA's excuse was that it got "stuck" and wouldn't disengage. They had a BMWNA rep to check out the car(probably since I'm 24, but I've been driving manuals since I was 16 and haven't had any issues on my last car). Kinda makes me uneasy about the clutch system of this car in general... but whatever I'll drive it spiritedly for a year and if it fails after that, it's probably my fault. At which point I'll do the install or have some local pros do it(I have had quite the serious of failures due to my dealership's techs).
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      10-27-2012, 07:28 AM   #3
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I suspect bmw has changed something with the clutch parts on the early 2008/09 cars. Everytime I read about a sudden clutch failure story it is a '08/'09 car.

I just looked on RealOEM.com and it seems they now offer a reman clutch repair kit for just $407! #21207567623

http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...21&fg=05&hl=16

I would be curious to see what the part numbers are for your repair OP.
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      10-27-2012, 12:17 PM   #4
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Hmm interesting.

I'm going to stop by the dealership today to grab something outta the car and I'll see if I can get pictures and information on the clutch/part numbers. I'll also figure out my build date.
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      10-29-2012, 09:28 AM   #5
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The fact that you couldnt pull it out of gear with the pedal pushed in, makes me think that it was a pressure plate failure. A burned out clucth just wont hold the power but will disengage just fine. Glad they are covering it.
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      10-29-2012, 10:32 AM   #6
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it is good that the warranty will cover this.. is this always covered by warranty "Clutch/tranny" I heard that 6MT clutch and tranny might not get covered because it could be a driver problem.
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      10-29-2012, 10:58 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ash83 View Post
it is good that the warranty will cover this.. is this always covered by warranty "Clutch/tranny" I heard that 6MT clutch and tranny might not get covered because it could be a driver problem.
My dealer told me that they do a "color" test. They look at the clutch because depending on its color, that will indicate how exactly it was worn. I have no idea how that would work though. It is limitedly covered but is still considered a wear and tear item, meaning that it is fully up to the discretion of your dealer and BMWNA.

I was told that a clutch failure under 30k miles would get looked at, after that they probably wouldn't bother either way.
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      10-29-2012, 11:11 AM   #8
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The thing that is telling to me is how cheap the clutch kit parts are now. A year or two ago... the "few guys" (two or three posts I saw) those guys said the clutch job was gonna be around $3,5K USd (parts and labor). Now we see that bmw's remanufactured clutch kit is only $400. Now granted that doesn't include a new flywheel... but still that is a whole cheaper than in the past.

Just makes me wonder IF there are a lot of failures or people chewing thru the clutches that people post over here in 1Addicts.


And BTW... that "color test" they are looking for a "blue"(marks) on the flywheel and/or pressure plate, to indicated excessive heat/slippage/use.
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      10-29-2012, 11:17 AM   #9
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Thanks Dackel, you are right, they were looking for blue marks. But in my case I don't see why I wouldn't have had any because I could smell my clutch down the street and it was slipping terribly but intermittently.

I thought my failure was unique but the OP had the same exact issue as me. This leads me to believe that my case was not so unique. (pressure plate issue)
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      10-29-2012, 05:40 PM   #10
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Well I picked her up today, clutch feels as a brand new one should!

I asked if they took pictures; but they didn't. Parts according to receipt:

- 21-20-7-567-623 SET RMFD-CLUTH PAR $407.69
- 21-20-7-590-942 TWIN MASS FLYWHEEL $1,031.33
- 23-00-0-417-164 SET OF ALU. SCREWS $13.00

Problem according to this write up (slight different than originally reported):

"FAULTY DUAL MASS FLYWHEEL. CAUSED CLUTCH TO FAIL. REMOVED TRANSMISSION AND INSPECTED CLUTCH AND FLYWHEEL. FOUND EXCESSIVE AXIAL PLAY IN DUAL MASS FLYWHEEL. THIS CAUSED CLUTCH SLIPPAGE AND FAILURE. REPLACED FLYWHEEL AND CLUTCH. CHECKED OPERATION. OK"

Also, build date is July 2009.

Also worth noting; even though I never asked for this, the invoice shows, "CUST REQ. PLEASE CHECK WHEELS AND TIRES FOR WEAR"....I'm guessing that's something they added on their end out of suspicion.
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Last edited by Jmanscotch; 10-29-2012 at 05:45 PM..
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      10-29-2012, 06:16 PM   #11
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Does the dual mass flywheel cause that extra jolt in first gear when starting from a stand still unless you let out the clutch VEERRRRYYY slowly? And will the extra axial play in the dual mass flywheel give you more jolt?

EDIT: Btw glad you got everything fixed under warranty!
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