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01-27-2017, 12:16 AM | #23 |
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Drives: F80 M3
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Location: Santa Barbara, AP, Brembo, GIAC, Koni, Ohlins, Performance Friction, www.hpautosport.com
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Like "houtan" said, there are guides that will guide you in. There is some play though as BMW build some tolerances into the subframe/mounts so it is much easier to assembly on the assembly line. That play will also mean that your subframe will likely not go back to the exact spot before you removed it so an 4-wheel alignment is required to get the thrust angle correct.
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02-02-2017, 09:00 PM | #24 |
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There really is no downside. Even if you have to go through 2-3 hole saw kits and shoulder replacement surgery. Seriously get a heat gun, 27mm-30mm socket and some automotive KY jelly equivalent.
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A couple or fifteen mods.
Last edited by zapatista; 03-10-2017 at 07:07 AM.. |
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02-03-2017, 05:09 PM | #25 |
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I can echo most comments and will say its a no brainer. I went with nolathane 2 piece bushings. Install was straightforward using a homemade bushing removal tool and a heat gun. Total cost of job was about 130aud, as i bought bnib bushings from a forum member.
Back end feels noticeably tighter, and the pogoing effect has been reduced going over bumps, speed humps, highway expansion joints. I do believe the front end is tighter also. Only other susp related mods so far are MPSS tyres. Summary: just get it done! |
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03-04-2017, 12:15 PM | #26 |
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Drives: 2010 128i 6MT Sport Pkg. 18"
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Upgrading rear bushings is highly recommended. That mid-corner bump/ wiggle which I found downright scary will be gone. My shop advised that inserts would work fine for a street driven/ street tire car at a lot less $. They have a lot of race prep experience so I took their advice and have not been disappointed. For a car that's going to see a lot of track with comp. tires then no doubt the full bushings would be the way to go. Depends on your budget and application. That my car puts down less power than the turbo guys could also have figured into their thinking.
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05-06-2017, 08:13 PM | #27 |
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Appreciate this thread. Recently got a 2012 135i M-sport with DCT. I went to get the KTD-917 kit at tunersport and it says only for 2008-2011 but the whiteline site says 2004-2013. I am pretty sure there is no difference in the subframe for 2011 vs 2012, but am a bit paranoid about these things. Anyone running the 917 kit on a 2012? TIA.
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Andy '12 E82-PS2,Stoptechs,Clubsports+M3 bits,Accusump,Wagner DP+EVO III FMIC,ERCP,BMS Intake,Mason Strut Bar,Wedge Tune |
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05-06-2017, 08:17 PM | #28 | |
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Quote:
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05-06-2017, 08:33 PM | #29 |
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Realoem is pretty good...but I've seen errors there. Plus when I go aftermarket, all bets are off, sometimes! Thx for the confirmation. I am going to get them.
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Andy '12 E82-PS2,Stoptechs,Clubsports+M3 bits,Accusump,Wagner DP+EVO III FMIC,ERCP,BMS Intake,Mason Strut Bar,Wedge Tune |
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