DIY: Installing ST Coilovers

[SGM <3]

Originally Posted by Rukuss

Before and after pics

Mine are only down halfway because I don't want mad reverse rake when I still have the stock suspension in the front

Once everything is in and lined up and such I shall post pictures, I promise.

[lastMleft]

Originally Posted by SGM <3

Mine are only down halfway because I don't want mad reverse rake when I still have the stock suspension in the front

Once everything is in and lined up and such I shall post pictures, I promise.

Thank you

[iStig]

I am considering a set of ST's but still a little skeptical of the quality concerning the collars being plastic. It's this or KW's and I can't decide.

[SGM <3]

Originally Posted by iStig

I am considering a set of ST's but still a little skeptical of the quality concerning the collars being plastic. It's this or KW's and I can't decide.

ST's = Relabeled KW V1's just without the anodizing on struts. Aka the ST's will wear a little quicker if you live in a state where they salt the roads for snow.

Mine ride really great, I'd recommend them for a great drop for a great price and great ride.

[AKopp]

Originally Posted by SGM <3

Just got my rears done and they were a piece of cake. Just make sure you have all the right tools and take your time while doing everything. Toughest part for me was either getting the trunkliner back in, or screwing in the colossal lugbolt again (the two holes wouldn't line up). But everything fits and is all back together now.

That trunk liner was the worst part of the whole thing. As far as the lug bolt, it was easy with a hi threaded jack and the lift. A hammer also helped slam it through.

[worries]

Thanks for the DIY, does anyone happen to know the torque values for everything?

[AKopp]

Originally Posted by worries

Thanks for the DIY, does anyone happen to know the torque values for everything?

If you get a hold of a manual, that'll probably tell you. I just go by feel. (Not exactly by the books, but my car stays together and every other one that I've worked on) Except the wheel bolts, they're way to easy to over-tighten.

[AKopp]

Something else I should add, that trunk liner is easy to take in and out if you do it properly. By properly, I mean that you remove the rear seat and the side bolsters. then it slips in and out no issues. In case any one is fighting with it.

[Katkarot]

I have my trunk liner out quite a few times and it is currently out at the moment as I am adjusting the shocks.

However I don't remove the seats nor side bolster. I do lower the seats though.

I put the liners back by wedging the tips in first into the side bolster, at about 45 degrees, once that is in, then the rest will fit back.

I will take some pictures later when I put my back in.

[dfv2]

Few tips - for the fronts you only need to remove the pinch bolt, the three upper tower nuts and sway endlink connection to the strut. You then turn the wheel at full lock away from the side of the car you're on (clockwise turn for drivers side) and the strut assembly can be carefully pulled from the hub assembly. No need to remove the tie rod connection or leveling links. YMMV, but I've done this on a few 1'ers. Just push the caliper down with your foot to get the clearance you need.

For the rears, just pull the liner a bit there is no need to remove the whole thing.

Always work on the front with BOTH wheels at full droop, otherwise the sway will load the end links and be impossible to insert/remove without a struggle.

Enjoy!!

[worries]

Originally Posted by dfv2

Few tips - for the fronts you only need to remove the pinch bolt, the three upper tower nuts and sway endlink connection to the strut. You then turn the wheel at full lock away from the side of the car you're on (clockwise turn for drivers side) and the strut assembly can be carefully pulled from the hub assembly. No need to remove the tie rod connection or leveling links. YMMV, but I've done this on a few 1'ers. Just push the caliper down with your foot to get the clearance you need.

For the rears, just pull the liner a bit there is no need to remove the whole thing.

Always work on the front with BOTH wheels at full droop, otherwise the sway will load the end links and be impossible to insert/remove without a struggle.

Enjoy!!

Worked perfectly. I replaced my control arms the first time, so I had to loosen those. The second time I realized I had the grooved washer, inside the top mount, upside-down and did your method and had no problems dropping the strut and out the wheel well with little force.

Also for anyone wondering about torque specs, I found them all in this video by by ECS Tuning: http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=810625. With that video and this DIY I felt pretty comfortable and had no problems, thanks!

One tip I want to share is that when loosening the knuckle around the front struts, instead of using a chisel, you can simply use a 6-8mm hex socket by pushing it between the gap and rotating it 1/4 with a breaker-bar which will safely spread the knuckle. It's basically the same thing as http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E82-135...ader/ES198389/.

[135iam]

Thanks for the DIY, installing KW's this weekend

[AKopp]

Originally Posted by 135iam

Thanks for the DIY, installing KW's this weekend

[EOD23]

Awesome guide, used it today to put a set of E9X ST's on my car. Thanks!

[CrimsonXV]

Nice write up, should be easy enough as my e46 was. One question though, why do you suggest putting anti-seize on the perch threads?

[AKopp]

Originally Posted by CrimsonXV

Nice write up, should be easy enough as my e46 was. One question though, why do you suggest putting anti-seize on the perch threads?

Probably not necessary, I just try to make life easier in the future for adjustments and if anything else needs to be done. Simple oil on the threads would probably be sufficient to make the adjusters turn smoother.

[worries]

Having a hard time lining up the lower control arm to the wheel hub to get the bolt through. Any tips?

[worries]

Figured it out by doing a combination of the following:

Adjusting camber eccentric bolt on the lower control arm.
Raising/lowering control arm with jack.
Raising/lowering wheel hub with another jack.

It seems like you have to have the control arm and hub at just the right height for it to line up vertically, and then use the camber adjustment to line it up horizontally.

I put a mark on the eccentric bolt and control arm to get the camber back to as close as it was before, that way the camber/toe was good enough for me to drive to the alignment shop.

[AKopp]

Originally Posted by worries

Figured it out by doing a combination of the following:

Adjusting camber eccentric bolt on the lower control arm.
Raising/lowering control arm with jack.
Raising/lowering wheel hub with another jack.

It seems like you have to have the control arm and hub at just the right height for it to line up vertically, and then use the camber adjustment to line it up horizontally.

I put a mark on the eccentric bolt and control arm to get the camber back to as close as it was before, that way the camber/toe was good enough for me to drive to the alignment shop.

Missed this... It was a bitch to get the bolt in, but jack up and hammer that thing in. I didn't touch my alignment and everything is good here. My camber is in the negative I'm sure but my wheels clear the fenders this way. I'm not changing it and it drives straight as an arrow.

[michaelmarx]

Hello AKOPP
Just wanted to thank you for this older post and directions on installing ST Coil overs.
Everything went exactly as planned in your directions until I went to install the wheels back on the car.
I have purchased a set of APEX wheels which I really am happy with. Unfortunately, I went with 8.5 in the front with a 45 offset. The rims are 18’s. I presume I will have to now figure out a spacer system to make this work as the rims hit on the coil inside of the wheel. I was wondering what size rims you used and what their offset was. Hopefully you are still around on this site.