BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

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      06-10-2013, 12:17 PM   #23
mikal7
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I love all the information in this thread!

If I had the money i would definitely buy a stoptech or apracing kit. Bbk's do shorten your stopping distance, are usually lighter, and run cooler. Even on the street the best part is how they bite.

Has anyone tried to retro fit m3 calipers?? I just want more stopping power. Going to try f30 backing plates + hawk pads + aftermarket 330i front rotors to see results. Already running motul rb600. If it's not enough next season I'm going bbk. Do the stoptechs clear 17s?? I don't wanna buy wheels again.
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      06-10-2013, 12:45 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikal7 View Post
I love all the information in this thread!

If I had the money i would definitely buy a stoptech or apracing kit. Bbk's do shorten your stopping distance, are usually lighter, and run cooler. Even on the street the best part is how they bite.

Has anyone tried to retro fit m3 calipers?? I just want more stopping power. Going to try f30 backing plates + hawk pads + aftermarket 330i front rotors to see results. Already running motul rb600. If it's not enough next season I'm going bbk. Do the stoptechs clear 17s?? I don't wanna buy wheels again.
I dont think the stop techs clear 17s or I would have my problem solved. I will order thos f30 backing plates to start with. I want the bling and the function at the same time. as for those ducts I try to look at ny bumber and I couldn't see where you would punch out the liner. I have the 128i with sports package and its us spec.
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      06-10-2013, 01:25 PM   #25
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2008 BMW 128i  [10.00]
BMW 17 wheels usually have a groove that allows BMW brakes to fit. Plenty of e87's running front PerfBrakes and some 335i front brakes

Quote:
Originally Posted by mikal7 View Post

Has anyone tried to retro fit m3 calipers?? I just want more stopping power. Going to try f30 backing plates + hawk pads + aftermarket 330i front rotors to see results.
Mikal,
the 330mm sized rotors from 330i/130i need that caliper carrier from 330i. The best 330mm rotor is from the e89 z4 current gen 35i from 2009/8. Its the 2-pieace style
Cost is about $150 per side for the caliper carrier. This has been confirmed by the 1series race car/ grand am in a few pages of threads ago via photos (128i caliper on 330i carrier).

Also a reminder: Performance Friction released a true 2-piece rotor for 330i e90 in 330mm. Their 330i brake pads(sold separate) wont work cuz of the different caliper, but the rotors should fit. Expensive but quality suff @ 900 usd
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Last edited by andrey_gta; 06-10-2013 at 01:39 PM..
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      06-10-2013, 03:45 PM   #26
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Andre can you clarify?

Oem z4 35is calipers for 08/09 are 330mm correct??

To fit these calipers we need a "caliper carrier" part?? What is this? Do you have BMW oe p/n??
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      06-10-2013, 07:09 PM   #27
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First, I'm not putting them on until I get the F30 backing plates; ordered this morning, so I won't start for another week.

Another thing, I won't be able to replicate the results on the same day. There's a ton of parts going in my car at once, it'll take a few days at the least.

Testing: This ain't no Mythbuster's. I simply don't have the tools or measuring equipment to make this authentic as possible. But, I'll try a few things, here are my notes:
-It's a public road with houses, trees, railings, markers, and other landmarks along the side. I plan on using said landmarks to aid in measuring. Possibly a chalked line adjacent a telephone pole as the initial braking point.
-Speed limit is 55mph so only 60-0. It's a very slow road, barely any traffic, ever. I would never do this if I felt it were a danger to the public or my immediate surroundings.
-Both brakes are nearly brand new (new front rotors and pads on stock set)
-Temperature (outside): It's california, the weather is the constant. As an east coaster, it's pretty monotonous. It'll be 72F with a slight breeze and very low humidity on BOTH days - TRUST ME.
-Time: Arguably more important than the outside temperature, time of day will determine the surface road temperature (because: cali sun). Again, I'll keep these the same and within the same hour of the day.
-Tires: I'll give them a good run in prior, they'll be plenty of warmth in them for both tests. I'll check the PSI before each test too.

Instead of measuring the 60-0 distances, I plan on measuring the differences (if any) between runs. If it's too small of a difference or negligible, than that's our answer! What else am I missing??

Last edited by Dafttt; 06-10-2013 at 08:20 PM..
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      06-10-2013, 09:47 PM   #28
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^^ I noticed a positive result with full F+R 135i brakes compared to my OEM 128i with crappy squealing pads( prob not OE BMW grade, from past owner). More sudden, the same effort at casual street driving stopped me a car length early. Now I happen to glance into rear-view much more often to be sure of the person behind me.
I did change to Motul 5.1 Bbrake fluid now, otherwise stock new pads and rotors ( dealer takeoff sold with 35 km on the kit).

I didnt do PerfBrakes software... I consulted Tisher/getbmwparts they said no need with 135i rears

Overall very satisfied and feel better on the street and the type of driving i do. For when I take up tracking, I will consider the piston upgrade kits and better pads.
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"The 1-series is the last car that BMW engineered before the Germans, as a car-making culture, fell out of love with driving." - R&T 2013 135is

Last edited by andrey_gta; 06-10-2013 at 09:53 PM..
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      06-11-2013, 06:24 AM   #29
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Just a little blurb from Stoptech that I feel nearly everyone in this thread could use. This is a company trying to sell BBKs. Notice how stopping distance isn't discussed. Also key to note is the part on braking bias, which is very relevant when you are swapping on the brakes of other cars.

Quote:
Big Brake Kits give your vehicle that Supercar look and feel, and exceed stock performance in two areas. First, larger rotors increase heat capacity. Second, stiffer calipers and stainless steel lines reduce system compliance.

The key, however, is to increase heat capacity and reduce compliance without upsetting the stock front to rear brake torque ratio. If the brake upgrade you select adds too much front torque (as many do), you reduce your car's ability to utilize the tractive capacity of all of the tires to the maximum practical extent (even on ABS equipped cars) and you therefore create performance sacrifices. In addition, too many pistons or pistons that are too large will make the brake pedal much more difficult to modulate, which limits a driver's control of brake input on the race track.
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      06-11-2013, 02:15 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daft Auto




First, I'm not putting them on until I get the F30 backing plates; ordered this morning, so I won't start for another week.

Another thing, I won't be able to replicate the results on the same day. There's a ton of parts going in my car at once, it'll take a few days at the least.

Testing: This ain't no Mythbuster's. I simply don't have the tools or measuring equipment to make this authentic as possible. But, I'll try a few things, here are my notes:
-It's a public road with houses, trees, railings, markers, and other landmarks along the side. I plan on using said landmarks to aid in measuring. Possibly a chalked line adjacent a telephone pole as the initial braking point.
-Speed limit is 55mph so only 60-0. It's a very slow road, barely any traffic, ever. I would never do this if I felt it were a danger to the public or my immediate surroundings.
-Both brakes are nearly brand new (new front rotors and pads on stock set)
-Temperature (outside): It's california, the weather is the constant. As an east coaster, it's pretty monotonous. It'll be 72F with a slight breeze and very low humidity on BOTH days - TRUST ME.
-Time: Arguably more important than the outside temperature, time of day will determine the surface road temperature (because: cali sun). Again, I'll keep these the same and within the same hour of the day.
-Tires: I'll give them a good run in prior, they'll be plenty of warmth in them for both tests. I'll check the PSI before each test too.

Instead of measuring the 60-0 distances, I plan on measuring the differences (if any) between runs. If it's too small of a difference or negligible, than that's our answer! What else am I missing??
thanks for experimenting for us! I just want something that looks good (yeah my ricer side is coming out) lol but at the same time is going to the the beating and heat. if my brakes are on fire all the time in my 128i on the track because of fad and being hot I want something thats going to help with cooling down. im leaning towards the f30 plates and bmw bbk or the stop techs and calling it a day
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