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      04-14-2014, 06:48 PM   #1
scottn2retro
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Stepping up the N54 135i race car

Hi All -

We've been racing our 135i since mid 2008, but up until this year, it has all been in stock/sport class where we have very little to the car's drivetrain output other than a Dinan tune (Stage 2 I believe), a Borla exhaust and an LSD.

This year, with the new tire sponsor, we finally get to move her up in class. We're running the Achilles slicks, so we're officially racing in B-Mod, but we're going to continue to develope the car up the G-Prepared rules. We're no longer going to keep the car street legal, so we won't have to pass smog, but I would like it to still be quiet enough to pass sound at most tracks (almost nothing passes 92 dbm at Laguna Seca).

So looking for recommendations for prepared class legal parts that make power and save weight. If any vendors want to work with us on this, feel free to contact me via PM:

- Intake
- down pipes
- exhaust
- intercooler
- tune

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      04-15-2014, 08:20 AM   #2
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I would go a Mr5 custom intake, VRSF DPs, Berk Race Axleback, Berk mids, VRSF 7" FMIC and then get a PTF Cobb custom protune.

Oh and don't forget to get an ER chargepipe or something so that the stock plastic one doesn't explode on you when you turn up the boost.
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      04-15-2014, 10:17 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by froop View Post
I would go a Mr5 custom intake, VRSF DPs, Berk Race Axleback, Berk mids, VRSF 7" FMIC and then get a PTF Cobb custom protune.

Oh and don't forget to get an ER chargepipe or something so that the stock plastic one doesn't explode on you when you turn up the boost.
Thanks for the recommendations. Any recommendation on the order of the mods (assumption is I won't get to do them all at once). Sounds like the charge pipe should be near the top of the list, or that can be done before the new tune?
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      04-15-2014, 10:25 AM   #4
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Why don't you do a custom titanium exhaust with a turn-down?

IMO, it makes no sense to stick with aftermarket parts on a race car. You can do stuff cheaper, make more power and sound.

Just IMO
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      04-15-2014, 10:43 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kgolf31 View Post
Why don't you do a custom titanium exhaust with a turn-down?
IMO, it makes no sense to stick with aftermarket parts on a race car. You can do stuff cheaper, make more power and sound.
Just IMO
I may work with an exhaust shop like JP Performance, but there are some sound restrictions at some tracks I'll want to still meet.
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      04-15-2014, 10:46 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottn2retro View Post
I may work with an exhaust shop like JP Performance, but there are some sound restrictions at some tracks I'll want to still meet.
Turn-down will greatly reduce sound...common trick for autocrossers to meet the 100' 98dB limit.

Of course you'll still have to put in a muffler or something, but a burns race muffler or similar should be right up your alley. You should be single pipe all the way too, IMO...increase the top end power
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      04-15-2014, 12:05 PM   #7
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How much money do you have to spend on mods? If it's a lot, then words like "VRSF" and "Berk" should not be in your vocabulary.
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      04-15-2014, 01:18 PM   #8
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ORDER:

Further Weight Reduction (if possible)
ER Charge Pipe
COBB TUNE V2
DP's (AR, BMS, VRSF)
ETS Intercooler
Custom Intake
single pipe exhaust

If you ever run Road Atlanta, Atlanta Motorsports park, or Barber please let me know as I'd love to come watch, or be a pit monkey!!!!
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      04-15-2014, 03:10 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ONDEMAND View Post
ORDER:

Further Weight Reduction (if possible)
ER Charge Pipe
COBB TUNE V2
DP's (AR, BMS, VRSF)
ETS Intercooler
Custom Intake
single pipe exhaust

If you ever run Road Atlanta, Atlanta Motorsports park, or Barber please let me know as I'd love to come watch, or be a pit monkey!!!!
We've been to RA and Barber, but will let you know if we go again. What hp at the wheels do you have?

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      04-15-2014, 03:39 PM   #10
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Please do let me know, I watch the burton 128i last year in the CTSCC and always try to hit the CCA club races at road atlanta, but I have yet to see a 135 race.

Have not dyno'd yet which is a shame!

Also I'm N55 so I don't expect anything crazy but I plan to dyno (stage 2+ aggressive) as soon as I get my new coils in, then a Pro Tune and dyno again.

I don't get into E85 or methanol, but sunoco GTX is fun!

I'd guess right now on the 2+ aggressive I could top 390tq and 340hp at the wheels...on a dynojet anyway!

with the Pro Tune maybe 410/370?
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      04-16-2014, 10:14 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ONDEMAND View Post
Please do let me know, I watch the burton 128i last year in the CTSCC and always try to hit the CCA club races at road atlanta, but I have yet to see a 135 race.

with the Pro Tune maybe 410/370?
We do look to make trips every year somewhere we haven't gone before. So even though we are base in SoCal, we've been to Watkins Glen, Road America, Mid-Ohio, Road Atlanta, Barber, Motorsport Ranch Ft. Worth, COTA. This year, we're looking at Portland and Miller in Salt Lake City. But VIR is a track that is very much on our wish list and if we can combine that trip with a race at another track in the area (RA, Roebling Road, etc.) that's what we'll be looking for in upcoming years.

I'm hoping to get somewhere in the neighborhood of 380 hp to the wheels on 100 octane without going too crazy on the boost.
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Last edited by scottn2retro; 04-16-2014 at 01:11 PM..
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      04-17-2014, 11:50 AM   #12
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A lot of people recommend the ER charge pipe, so that's good that there is one product with such overwelming support.

ER sells their FMIC and charge pipe in a kit. It appears to be a 6" intercooler. Would that be enough to support a rwhp target of 380 and are there any other reasons (bad construction reputation, not optimal design) why the ER FMIC would not be a good option?
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      04-17-2014, 12:11 PM   #13
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I am pretty positive that ER has a track car with off the shelf products on it. From everything I have seen all of their products are top notch. You should give them a call. You may want to think about an oil cooler also if you track the car. Protuningfreaks can make a map based on your needs and how you want the car to perform.
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      04-17-2014, 05:18 PM   #14
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380 WHP is an easy target to hit. Look into an ETS Intercooler. Very good product, the core design is very good compared to some other popular brands. You will have to choose between a 5 and 7 inch. The 7 inch is normally overkill for stock turbos, but I think your car is an exception to the rule. Downpipes, take your pick, just about any you can find besides racelands will be fine. ER Charge pipe is a good unit. On the tune side of things I would highly suggest getting in contact with wedgeperformance@gmail.com. He creates awesome custom flash tunes for you car to meet your needs, and he works off of donations. You can run his flashes standalone, so you don't have to put money into a physical tuner. You just need a 170$ Bavarian Technic cable, which can also do datalogging and many other useful things.

Best of luck.
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      04-17-2014, 07:31 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edisapimp View Post
How much money do you have to spend on mods? If it's a lot, then words like "VRSF" and "Berk" should not be in your vocabulary.
Bullshit. No reason to pay a premium for the same damn thing.

I echo what others said above by saying go custom!
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      04-17-2014, 08:07 PM   #16
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I would do the below mods. Tuned your car will generate a lot more heat than before and an Intercooler and Oil cooler will greatly improve the car. With our cars there are generally good quality brands and then bad brands. Not too much in between. Most reputable companies make very similar products. As noted, VRSF have in fact received very positive feedback on their products on both 1addicts and more so on e90post.

Tune
Intake - Drop in filter and/or MR 5
Inter cooler
Oil cooler
Charge Pipe
Downpipes
Exhaust

But more importantly, what is the current suspension set up?
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      04-17-2014, 09:27 PM   #17
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I would think if you don't have any restrictions I would go with
-Big Tom style intercooler or Custom in front of the radiator
-Custom Radiator full height, this should add quite a bit of cooling
-Bigger or Dual Oil coolers if your not already running that.
-Cobb Accessport or BB Flash something that you can custom tune the power delivery depending on track needs and fueling.
-Downpipes - pick a brand they are all about the same. BMS, CPE, VRSF, Macht Schell, AR etc.
-Chargepipe they are all the same just depends on where you want the BOV and what style.
-Lightest exhaust you can get even with no muffler it might be quiet enough, turbo's really quiet down exhaust. If not have a lightweight straight through design for the quiet tracks and a muffler delete for others.
-Custom Cold Air Intake or MR5 style plenty of copies out there if you search that think they have come up with a better solution. Different hosing, hard pipes, better smoother adapters etc.
-Turbo's stock turbo's don't last the longest at higher power levels I'd consider VTT Stage 1 or 2 the bigger compressor wheel slows down the shaft speed for hopefully more reliability plus fixes seal issues.
-Assuming all the M3 suspension bits, camber plates, coilovers and LSD are already done to the car.
-Assuming the Dual Mass Flywheel has already been ditched for a aluminum flywheel and upgraded clutch.
-Solid Motor/Trans mounts
-HPA Aluminum Clutch Pedal Assembly.
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      04-18-2014, 03:08 PM   #18
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A lot of good info/recommendations so far. With more power generated, should be more heat.

I'm thinking maybe one of the first areas I should go after is making sure it can handle the extra heat generated. I already have a Dinan oil cooler and an aftermarket (OEM height) radiator, but it sounds like I'll need to upgrade/augment both of those areas.
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      04-19-2014, 11:08 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottn2retro
A lot of good info/recommendations so far. With more power generated, should be more heat.

I'm thinking maybe one of the first areas I should go after is making sure it can handle the extra heat generated. I already have a Dinan oil cooler and an aftermarket (OEM height) radiator, but it sounds like I'll need to upgrade/augment both of those areas.
I think if you have an upgraded oil cooler and radiator paired with an FMIC you should have no issues with heat.

Get the tune, CP, FMIC and exhaust and you should be good to go. If you still have any heat issues pop up then you can look at possibly getting a dual oil cooler setup, but see how it goes first.
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      04-19-2014, 12:06 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ONDEMAND
ORDER:

Further Weight Reduction (if possible)
ER Charge Pipe
COBB TUNE V2
DP's (AR, BMS, VRSF)
ETS Intercooler
Custom Intake
single pipe exhaust

If you ever run Road Atlanta, Atlanta Motorsports park, or Barber please let me know as I'd love to come watch, or be a pit monkey!!!!
Same!! Rb's 135i here.
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      04-21-2014, 09:56 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by froop View Post
I think if you have an upgraded oil cooler and radiator paired with an FMIC you should have no issues with heat.
You'd be surprised. Remember, we're racing (up to 45 min. continuous sprint racing), and we could be at places like Willow Springs in July (110+ deg. outside). We already run the heater in the car full blast, but we are looking to delete the heater box.

I have the 1M aux. radiator parts on order.
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      04-21-2014, 10:46 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shmorgan77 View Post
Same!! Rb's 135i here.
NICE!

______________ Thread Jack____________

Would love to check out the RB's!

You shoudl come the the Taco Mac in Johns Creek on Wed after work - See the Southeastern Regional Section | Caffine and Octane thread.


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