New to the 135 and need a good auto cross set-up

[DABAZZ]

I just need to make sure I'm not blowing money. I am leaning towards the vorshlag camber plates and vorshlag/eibach pro plus setup(front and rear sways, springs and some end links. And m3 front control arms. Please help me out. Been reading through the forums an

[DABAZZ]

And, I can find much.

[DABAZZ]

i have a 2011 (N55 7 sp DCT)

[Freon]

What class do you want to run? Or do you really care and just want to go fast? I'm not sure the car is super competitive in any of its classes, so I wouldn't sweat it myself.

Camber is the #1 problem with the car from the factory, followed closely by the run-flat tires. I'd pick up a set of Apex wheels (ARC-8 or EC-7) and BFG Rivals or Dunlop Z2s as wide as you dare (255/35/18, 275/35/18 is a good target IMO, about as much as I'd bulge onto the wheels). Not cheap, looking at about $2k, but really that's worth it to improve handling. You dump a lot of rotating mass as well, as the factory run flat tires plus the wheels are boat anchors. I think I saved almost 20lbs per corner while adding 20-40mm of tire.

Eibach springs are probably less than optimal, especially with factory shocks. I'm not sure I suggestion much of a drop as the car is already very low and the front has poor travel. Might try checking classifieds for some used coilovers without a ton of miles.

Rear subframe bushings or inserts is a good idea. Inserts are super cheap and an easy DIY. I think ultimately the rest of the rear control arms and bushings could stand to be upgraded, but that $$ adds up fast.

[DABAZZ]

thanks for the imput! I;ve got a budget of Aprox $2300 for my first mods to this car (not including the Injen intake i ordered saturday) and im not to proud to buy used parts with low miles. i just want this car to autocross and DD.

[DABAZZ]

coming from an Evo x GSR ( Dyno'd @ 330 AWHP - 318AWTQ) fast but didnt do any additional handling upgrades, just 265's squared 18's

[jafo1701]

I also have a 2011 with a DCT. I'm not really competitive in Auto X. This last autocross this weekend I had the 25th fastest time. Once you account for class adjustment knocked me down to 33rd. I'm in ASP. This was out of 88 drivers.

Mods include M3 front control arms, Dinan camber plates, swift springs, Koni yellows, M3 subframe bushings, M3 swaybar, M3 upper and lower rear guide rods, Dinan rear shock mounts. ETS intercooler, ETS chargepipe, BMW PPK1. I also have a Berk sport exhaust and did the rear seat delete.
I have Apex ARC 8s 235/255 with Hancook RS3s. I much better in HPDEs then autox X. I run intermediate, sometimes advanced.

Best bang for the buck get rid of the stock dampers and runflats. I heard the 2011 springs are pretty good with the Koni yellows. Slowly upgrade to the M3 parts. It makes a difference.

[Groundpilot]

I agree with most of what iafo said. I have exactly the same car 2011 n55 w/DCT.
Heavily modded on r-compound tires. Never autoxed it, because i know that these cars with stock differential cant handle tight corners.
But it is very fast on the track. You should track it, a lot more fun than autox.

[Freon]

I don't think the 135 is really competitive in any of its classes, so I wouldn't sweat it too much.

[DABAZZ]

Hmm, kind of a buzz kill hahaha. so you guys are saying there is no real competitive set-up for the 135? I mean it is what it is but that sucks.

[Groundpilot]

Originally Posted by DABAZZ

thanks for the imput! I;ve got a budget of Aprox $2300 for my first mods to this car (not including the Injen intake i ordered saturday) and im not to proud to buy used parts with low miles. i just want this car to autocross and DD.

Honestly, if you are on a limited budget, you picked the wrong car.
Takes a lot of $$$ to make this car competitive.

[jafo1701]

Originally Posted by Groundpilot

I agree with most of what iafo said. I have exactly the same car 2011 n55 w/DCT.
Heavily modded on r-compound tires. Never autoxed it, because i know that these cars with stock differential cant handle tight corners.
But it is very fast on the track. You should track it, a lot more fun than autox.

Exactly take that car to the track. Much more fun. You can autocross too as long as you don't expect to finish high. I just go out there to have fun, mingle with the other drivers and its still fun to drive. Here's my run from this past weekend. Not bad. I think I could have knocked another second off my time, but they cut the afternoon session to two runs because it was running long.

[DABAZZ]

nice! our Autox place is substantially smaller and I feel like the Miata's always kill it haha. want to track it but the closest place is VIR which is 2 1/2 hrs. away from me.
Jafo1701, what set-up you running?

[Kgolf31]

Intake automatically bumps you into STU. That will put you against 4 banger boost buggies with typically can dominate the class.

Anyways, depends how involved you want to get into. I drive a 128i and currently prepping it for STX. You can look at my thread and see what I've had to go through so far with my setup. Feel free to ask me some questions if you see fit.

So far my current upgrades.

TCKline Dual Adjustable Suspension
APEX 17x8.5 ET40 with Dunlop ZII 245/40/17 Tires
Eibach 28mm Front Bar
Hawk HP+ Pads
BMW Performance SSK
Schroth Quick-Fit Pro Harness

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=946030

And my last event.

[DABAZZ]

Looks good man! I'm just looking for direction on my FIRST mods and am wondering if I want/ a wheel and tire package over the parts I've listed above.

[Kgolf31]

Originally Posted by DABAZZ

Looks good man! I'm just looking for direction on my FIRST mods and am wondering if I want/ a wheel and tire package over the parts I've listed above.

Depending on what wheel/tires you want to go with you may/may not need suspension in order to fit the wheels.

For example, for 245/40 tires up front I needed camber. For camber I needed suspension.

[jafo1701]

Originally Posted by DABAZZ

nice! our Autox place is substantially smaller and I feel like the Miata's always kill it haha. want to track it but the closest place is VIR which is 2 1/2 hrs. away from me.
Jafo1701, what set-up you running?

Swift springs with Koni Yellows. M3 subframe bushings, front sways, front control arms and upper rear and lower guide rods. Dinan Camber plates and rear shock mounts. BMW ppk1, ETS intercooler and charge pipe. Apex Arc 8s with Hancook RS3s 235/255

[DABAZZ]

I'm not looking into suspension to fit anything. my main priority is to the copious amounts of under steer (in a RWD mind you) that I encountered in my last Autocross. I Want to be able to use the RWD to my advantage (i.e. have the back end where i want it to go from a left right left right situation, with out PUSHING the front tires at lock). i want to crush winding backroads.

[DABAZZ]

oh, and where can I buy parts for a reasonable price? the evo was significantly more expensive to upgrade and ultimately why I chose to trade it for this. Is there a Facebook page that has classy for VA?

[Kgolf31]

Originally Posted by DABAZZ

I'm not looking into suspension to fit anything. my main priority is to the copious amounts of under steer (in a RWD mind you) that I encountered in my last Autocross. I Want to be able to use the RWD to my advantage (i.e. have the back end where i want it to go from a left right left right situation, with out PUSHING the front tires at lock). i want to crush winding backroads.

Unfortunately, you put yourself in a bad situation.

To reduce understeer, you essentially need more tire up front.

With the odd offsets the 1 series has, squeezing a 245 tire (or 255) is quite a task. Don't even think about a 265 tire, I'm almost certain that will not fit

With the e-diff/open diff in the rear, you need an actual mechanical LSD to reduce pushing and get the rear to rotate. This of course needs to be coupled with a square setup if you really want to get rid of a push.

With all of that, you need camber of all things to even begin to eliminate it.

You're going to need to compromise somewhere.

Now, with that being said. I'm still trying to dial out the understeer on my car. It is still apparent and needs to tweaking to figure this stuff out.

[gt4larry]

I have to agree with the other posts. Figure out how fast you want to go and develop a plan. The 135i is a very fast platform but dialing out the understeer requires camber plates, lots of rubber and ultimately a mechanical LSD rear differential. I run in ASP class at SCCA events to due to my modifications. I smile a lot after each run but try not to think about the money that got me there.

[Ginger_Extract]

Originally Posted by gt4larry

I have to agree with the other posts. Figure out how fast you want to go and develop a plan. The 135i is a very fast platform but dialing out the understeer requires camber plates, lots of rubber and ultimately a mechanical LSD rear differential. I run in ASP class at SCCA events to due to my modifications. I smile a lot after each run but try not to think about the money that got me there.

Would you mind elaborating on your setup? wheels/tires, which diff, etc.?