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      09-10-2015, 04:15 AM   #1
trap
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LED Angel Eyes with 13.8v mod

Hi
A friend coded my angel eyes to 13.8v for me some time ago and now I bought LED Angel Eyes. Should I go back to stock before installing them?
No specs or instructions in the box...


Thanks
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      09-11-2015, 08:44 AM   #2
reisf
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What angel eyes do you have? I've got LED ones at 13.8V and they look really good. No issues in over 8 months.
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      09-11-2015, 05:44 PM   #3
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Bought them at BMRAW, you can see pics in this post (not mine)
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...1&postcount=19

thanks
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      09-11-2015, 06:53 PM   #4
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It should be ok, i have very similar ones but i got them off ebay, i think they all come from the same manufacture anywayr.
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      09-11-2015, 09:00 PM   #5
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it's the brightness difference noticeable?
I ended up buying the Carly app to get the volts to normal and I notice the outer ring is not well defined/bright enough
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      09-12-2015, 08:53 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trap View Post
it's the brightness difference noticeable?
I ended up buying the Carly app to get the volts to normal and I notice the outer ring is not well defined/bright enough
I would say it's definitely brighter on 13.8V.

About your outer rings, that's just how the fibre optics in the headlights work. Only thing to do is to make sure the bulb is properly secured and not crooked or anything so the light spreads evenly.

How many watts are you angel eyes?

Last edited by reisf; 09-12-2015 at 08:58 AM..
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      09-13-2015, 01:17 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trap View Post
it's the brightness difference noticeable?
I ended up buying the Carly app to get the volts to normal and I notice the outer ring is not well defined/bright enough
If they use a ballast to drive the LEDs (which the should have). The input/output wattage is calculated based on the stock input voltage (12V, or w/e).

P(W) = V(V) × I(A)

Where P is power in watts, V is voltage, and I is amperage. By increasing V, assuming your amperage stays constant, you're increasing the input wattage.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Understanding LED Drivers
https://www.1000bulbs.com/pdf/unders...ed-drivers.pdf

What Is An LED Driver?
Due to increasing energy regulations, most people are familiar by now with the long life spans and energy savings associated with LEDs, or light-emitting diodes. However, many are not aware that these innovative light sources require specialized devices called LED drivers to operate. LED drivers (also known as LED power supplies) are similar to ballasts for fluorescent lamps or transformers for lowvoltage bulbs: they provide LEDs with the electricity they require to function and perform at their best.

LEDs require drivers for two purposes:

1. LEDs are designed to run on low voltage (12-24V), direct current electricity. However, most places supply higher voltage electricity. An LED driver rectifies higher voltage, to low voltage, direct current.

2. LED drivers also protect LEDs from voltage or current fluctuations. A change in voltage could cause a change in the current being supplied to the LEDs. LED light output is proportional to its current supply, and LEDs are rated to operate within a certain current range (measured in amps). Therefore, too much or too little current can cause light output to vary or degrade faster due to higher temperatures within the LED. In summary, LED drivers convert higher voltage, to low voltage, direct current. They also keep the voltage and current flowing through an LED circuit at its rated level.

Constant-Current Drivers
Constant-current drivers power LEDs that require a fixed output current and a range of output voltages. There will be only one output current specified, labeled in amps or milliamps, along with a range of voltages that will vary depending on the load (wattage) of the LED. In the example below to the left, the current output is 700mA, and the output voltage range is 4-13V DC (volts of direct current).

Constant-Voltage Drivers
Constant-voltage drivers power LEDs that require a fixed output voltage with a maximum output current. In these LEDs, the current is already regulated, either by simple resistors or an internal constant-current driver, within the LED module. These LEDs require one stable voltage, usually 12V DC or 24V DC. In the example below to the right, the output voltage is 24V DC, and the output current is a maximum of 1.04A.
So what does this mean? Well depending on the type of driver the LED has, its operating range, etc. an increase in voltage may have no effect (since the driver compensates and resolves the increase in power), or it may increase the brightness of the LED because you've increased the input voltage and some drivers will accept an input range, and proportional output range.

If it's the latter this means you've increased the supply power to the LED, which is designed to operate at a specific voltage and amperage input, and as a result the LEDs will likely fail prematurely.

If it's the former, it means you're supplying more power, drawing more energy from the battery, for no effect. Your alternator will produce electricity from the engine and this means that you'll end up going through a tank of gas just a little bit earlier than you would before.

My assumption with eBay and other 'low price' LED options would be that they do not use high end drivers, so increasing the input voltage will end up increasing the output voltage and cause the LEDs to fail prematurely. Ultimately though you would need to talk to the manufacturer to find out. Again, another assumption would be that the load on the LEDs is calculated from the stock input voltage of 12V, and did not account for a constant 13.8V input voltage. If it was me, I would keep it at the stock voltage.

Take this with a grain of salt though, I'm not an electrical engineer, just my best guess based on the above and my experience/knowledge.

As for your outer ring being dim, this is something you can only resolve with new rings (ie OSS, or similar) - Just the way the headlights are built. What you should look at though is the lumen output of the LED bulbs you have, compare it to the stock lumen output (halogen) and then compare it to other LED options. If the LEDs you have, have a dramatically lower lumen output that dim outer ring will be really noticeable. Make sure you're comparing one bulb output to one bulb output as some manufactures market their lumen output as the combined output of both bulbs (ie 2x 1500 lumen bulbs, they market them as 3000 lumen angel eyes.)

Check out this video as well for DIY installation if you run into adaptive headlight issues, made using LUX but should work with any bulb:

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Last edited by 6MT_Addict; 09-13-2015 at 01:31 PM..
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      09-13-2015, 06:15 PM   #8
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Can anyone confirm which module and setting needs to be coded in INPA?

I tried looking a while ago but could not see which setting needs changed.
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      09-14-2015, 05:09 AM   #9
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Thanks for the info 1AddictsAnonymous, not changing the voltage after reading that
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      09-14-2015, 01:07 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trap View Post
Hi
A friend coded my angel eyes to 13.8v for me some time ago and now I bought LED Angel Eyes. Should I go back to stock before installing them?
No specs or instructions in the box...


Thanks
If you leave the car coded at 13.8 V i would expect that the ones you bought will just run at full power all the time, and therefor get a bit hotter than usual. I would expect they would work either way.
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      09-22-2015, 04:44 PM   #11
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there is no point to code your LED angel eyes past 13.8 vdc, it may cause premature failure of the driver module, LED angel eyes are already perfectly fine how it is, while it will work and function, the choice is up to you.
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