Cleaning questions

[PopsnBurbles]

I'm scared to fudge something up baaad with my car. I have a few things of concern.

First, my tailpipes (my car came with BMW PE) are very pretty but they've gotten very dirty over 2 weeks. I'm scared I'll scratch it up pretty bad when cleaning off the carbon. Is it safe using a sponge mitt on it (multiple times because the carbon on/in the tips look very thick)?

Second, do I treat metallic paint differently from regular paint? For instance, Le Mans Blue vs Alpine White cars. I've never dealt with a metallic paint car before (at least not first hand in cleaning).

Third, I'm concerned what might go wrong if I somehow end up hosing water into the little inlets on the front bumper (the ones at the bottom left and right). Is it fine to project some water into it?

Lastly, Is there something specific for the M-Sport diffuser and other similar materials? I've encountered similar material before and they're not pretty when they age a little.

P.S. I'm no pro. I'm only doing a general wash -> dry (with microfiber) -> clay -> wax.

[jordantii]

For the pipes you can use wadding compound or any metal polish. Treat the paint the same since you are really treating the clear and not the base color. Don't worry about water being spayed in the brake ducts. Remember the car is driven outside in all sorts of wet conditions. And I have no answer for the rear. Mine is fine.

And drying is when you will induce swirls and scratches. I use a leaf blower and then use MF and quick detail to complete.

[Kgolf31]

Use Metal polish along with #0000 Steel Wool. It NEEDS to be #0000, not #000 or any other combination. This is the finest steel wool and will be the best.

Metallic vs any other paint, there is no difference.

I wouldn't call the inlets brake ducts, because they don't vent air to the brakes...more-so the wheel well area. Anyways you can spray water in there no problem.

The M-Sport diffusers are plastic. I personally use Black WOW to keep them in shape, and making sure they are conditioned.


Drying is NOT when you'll induce scratches, it is when you don't properly wash the car.

Research 2-Bucket Method and get a proper mitt, and bucket combo. Properly washing the car, and using waffle weave towels to dry will help reduce swirls.

[PopsnBurbles]

Thanks a lot guys.

I just wasn't very sure where those inlets lead to. I know it's definitely hits the wheel well area but I just wasn't sure if it was a direct route.

I'm really excited to clean!!!

[PTek Will]

Steel wool can be used in conjunction with a low grit sand paper. I chose to start with and SOS pad (the kitchen ones, basically soap and steel wool). Which got me to pictures 1 and 2. Which already is a great look from head height.


I decided to take it a bit further and used 500 grit sand paper on a drill to get as much of the caked on exhaust dust off as possible.


Next I used a 3" wool pad, that I was ready to toss, combined with M105.


The last step was using the same pad with optimum metal polish (new formula).


It is pretty blingin lol. If this is too much bling for you, I would say after the steel wool pad just go straight to a metal polish. But just wanted to show that polishing metal is very much like polishing paint, except you can start much more abrassive and work your way up. Using a drill attachment for the sand paper and pc for the compound and polish saved me tons of time and energy. Total work time was under 30 minutes.

Note: There are still very tiny specs of dust that just wont come off. I figure if i went to 500 grit and it still won't come off, then screw it! The finish is so blinding you cannot see it. Hope your project turns out well!

[litebulb]

I heard regular white tooth paste will works on the exhaust tips. Leave it on for a couple of minutes then scrub with a brush. I haven't had time to try though.

[PopsnBurbles]

I'll try out the wool first on the something else that's polished stainless. I'm scared that the wool might be too abrasive for the tips. I know I can use the wool for other stuff if it doesn't work out for the car. I hate it when shiny things look very scratched up.

[jordantii]

Originally Posted by Kgolf31

Use Metal polish along with #0000 Steel Wool. It NEEDS to be #0000, not #000 or any other combination. This is the finest steel wool and will be the best.

Metallic vs any other paint, there is no difference.

I wouldn't call the inlets brake ducts, because they don't vent air to the brakes...more-so the wheel well area. Anyways you can spray water in there no problem.

The M-Sport diffusers are plastic. I personally use Black WOW to keep them in shape, and making sure they are conditioned.


Drying is NOT when you'll induce scratches, it is when you don't properly wash the car.

Research 2-Bucket Method and get a proper mitt, and bucket combo. Properly washing the car, and using waffle weave towels to dry will help reduce swirls.

Oh ok on drying not inducing scratches, too funny. I have to assume that the car is washed properly so as to avoid scratching. I have been detailing my cars for over 30 years and I know for a fact that most scratching and swirls come from improper drying. As do most of the pro detailers. Hell even Jim Holloway, owner of mothers would tell you the same thing. Water is not a lubricant to the paint. It is a rinse/flush. Soap and quick detailer act as lubricants. So when you drag a towel over the finish you run the risk of scratches from debris stuck in the fibers, dirt still on the car and other contaminants. But to each his own I guess. And if you wash the car properly ie not in circular motions, you will not get swirls. Just think about it.

And a 2BWM is just the wash and rinse bucket. But if you use a sponge in that scenario you will get scratches. If you use a towel you will get scratches. It's all about encapsulating the dirt in the soap and using a wool mit or horse hair brush to hold the dirt away from the paint. If you are doing a full detail including clay, then minor swirls and scratches are not an issue since you will be polishing the car anyway.

And fine don't call them brake ducts, but that is what they are. Sure there is no hose to the brakes like I had on my race cars but it is still a duct to move air to the wheel well and assist in cooling the brakes.

I'm not a f_#king noob.

[Kgolf31]

Originally Posted by jordantii

Oh ok on drying not inducing scratches, too funny. I have to assume that the car is washed properly so as to avoid scratching. I have been detailing my cars for over 30 years and I know for a fact that most scratching and swirls come from improper drying. As do most of the pro detailers. Hell even Jim Holloway, owner of mothers would tell you the same thing. Water is not a lubricant to the paint. It is a rinse/flush. Soap and quick detailer act as lubricants. So when you drag a towel over the finish you run the risk of scratches from debris stuck in the fibers, dirt still on the car and other contaminants. But to each his own I guess. And if you wash the car properly ie not in circular motions, you will not get swirls. Just think about it.

And a 2BWM is just the wash and rinse bucket. But if you use a sponge in that scenario you will get scratches. If you use a towel you will get scratches. It's all about encapsulating the dirt in the soap and using a wool mit or horse hair brush to hold the dirt away from the paint. If you are doing a full detail including clay, then minor swirls and scratches are not an issue since you will be polishing the car anyway.

And fine don't call them brake ducts, but that is what they are. Sure there is no hose to the brakes like I had on my race cars but it is still a duct to move air to the wheel well and assist in cooling the brakes.

I'm not a f_#king noob.

Chances of scratching your car washing versus drying is much higher...is it not?

If proper wash isn't conducted...who cares about drying? You already caused the damage. Sure, if dirt is still on the car you're going to scratch the paint. Blow drying the car and using QD with the same towel will give you the same damage. You're still wiping the car down and drying the QD.

I have "brake ducts" on my Z4M and 128i, but they dump air onto the tire, they cannot physically dump air onto the rotor or caliper to assist in cooling.


Don't know where I called you a noob, but I haven't seen your work and I've been keeping my cars in perfect shape doing it with simply water sheeting, and drying.

[Kgolf31]

Originally Posted by 328pride

I'll try out the wool first on the something else that's polished stainless. I'm scared that the wool might be too abrasive for the tips. I know I can use the wool for other stuff if it doesn't work out for the car. I hate it when shiny things look very scratched up.

A used exhaust I bought and used Steel Wool on. Looks fine.

[jordantii]

It's your tone.

I'm not going to go into all of my steps. But lets say I have all the right tools for the job. And yes, if you pat the car dry with a waffle weave you hae a better chance of not scratching the car. The QD is the LUBRICANT for the paint and the MF towel. Mabe you need to look that word up. It acts like a bearing that evaporates. Almost no pressure is applied to the towel. Get it?

Yeah, I'm sure the ducts are there to dump air onto the tire.

I know I'm being a bit crass but...

[Zombie1]

Originally Posted by jordantii

It's your tone.

I'm not going to go into all of my steps. But lets say I have all the right tools for the job. And yes, if you pat the car dry with a waffle weave you hae a better chance of not scratching the car. The QD is the LUBRICANT for the paint and the MF towel. Mabe you need to look that word up. It acts like a bearing that evaporates. Almost no pressure is applied to the towel. Get it?

Yeah, I'm sure the ducts are there to dump air onto the tire.

I know I'm being a bit crass but...

Some people don't get along.. He isn't friendly that's for sure.

[Dackelone]

One great tip Phil from Detailer's Domain gave a while back is to use what ever you use to clean your alloy wheels on your exhaust tips.

For instance I use P21S wheel gel on my alloys and I always spray some on my exhaust tips. Then just rinse off. That seems to work for me. Using a sponge or MF towel with some soapy water would also do the trick. Just be fore not to use that same MF towel on the rest of the car.

[Kgolf31]

Originally Posted by jordantii

It's your tone.

I'm not going to go into all of my steps. But lets say I have all the right tools for the job. And yes, if you pat the car dry with a waffle weave you hae a better chance of not scratching the car. The QD is the LUBRICANT for the paint and the MF towel. Mabe you need to look that word up. It acts like a bearing that evaporates. Almost no pressure is applied to the towel. Get it?

Yeah, I'm sure the ducts are there to dump air onto the tire.

I know I'm being a bit crass but...

Sure, whatever makes you happy.

I thought with all you're racing experience......you would realize the "ducts" that are actually THROTTLED at the outlet dump air directly on tire, and no way possible to re-direct to the brakes.

How would I know such a thing...interesting.



As you can see, it is directly in front of the tire.

Go ahead and make a thread if you desire.

Originally Posted by Zombie1

Some people don't get along.. He isn't friendly that's for sure.

Of course not. I'm terrible.

[TOGWT]

I hope you don't mind if we interrupt this childish argument to provide an answer to the OP question


Using steel wool will leave small particles of carbon steel fibres that become embedded in the surface, which will produce rust spots when they come into contact with moisture.

Stainless steel is a ‘soft’ metal that is easily scratched, and even #0000 synthetic steel wool (which doesn't contain carbon) will cause micro scratches

I suggest that you use 3M Scotch-Brite™ Ultra Delicate Extra Thick Surface Cleaning Pad with a metal polish (P21S Finish Restorer) to provide lubrication, to remove any surface carbon grime or rust.

For really tough stains apply Optimum Metal Polish with a White 3M Scotch-Brite™ pad. It is very important to clean as you go

FWIW: there is a possibility of causing scratches whenever you 'touch' the paint surface

[jordantii]

Originally Posted by Kgolf31

Sure, whatever makes you happy.

I thought with all you're racing experience......you would realize the "ducts" that are actually THROTTLED at the outlet dump air directly on tire, and no way possible to re-direct to the brakes.

How would I know such a thing...interesting.



As you can see, it is directly in front of the tire.

Go ahead and make a thread if you desire.

Of course not. I'm terrible.

Thats not a picture of a 2011 135i MSport. On MY car the ducts, yes they are ducts are inboard of the wheels and DO direct air towards the brakes. I'm not sure what that is a picture of??

This is on my car. You can come to your own conclusions...





And Dack, sorry for being rude but he has a history of doing this sort of thing.

[cheshirecat79]

jesus I don't understand why people need to come in and crap all over a simple detailing thread

As far as scratches, IMO, they can happen during the wash phase if the contaminants are not gliding across the paint well enough (not enough lubrication) or during the drying phase if the contaminants have not been washed off or the drying media is too coarse for the relative hardness of the clear coat (which may vary by not just vehicle model but also the type of paint applied).

It's important to remember the fundamental of what creates scratches. Either it's you moving contaminants over the top of the paint or its your media (whatever it may be) that you're moving across the paint.

The idea is to loosen these contaminants as much as possible before physically interacting with them with any kind of wash mitt or handheld device. The more they break loose, the more likely they are to glide off of the paint and not be "dragged" across. Usually, a good, soapy mitt is enough to ensure that you're throwing down enough product to make this happen, but a good pre-wash soak and rinse on a dirty car can only help ensure this happens before you start your hands-on approach.

[PTek Will]

Originally Posted by 328pride

I'll try out the wool first on the something else that's polished stainless. I'm scared that the wool might be too abrasive for the tips. I know I can use the wool for other stuff if it doesn't work out for the car. I hate it when shiny things look very scratched up.

That's a good idea, not only for this instance, but for anything in general. Testing on something else is always the safe and sure way. You could test it on the underside of your exhaust pipe where it cannot be seen. But I assure you, steel wool is no where near too abrasive for stainless steel. I had to scrub extremely hard to get off the residue and then I even went as far as sanding with 500 grit. You are good my friend

[dcaron9999]

Are you guys referring to "mirror" chromed tips or black tips?

No one mentioned how to clean "black chrome" exhaust tips. Dont even know why they are called that way, as they look like flat black painted tips on my 2011 135i. The added baked on carbon probably makes them look worse, and they seem pitted from road debris. I probably need a thourough sand down, priming, and paint job, or just a replacement.


Here's what my tips looked like when they were new ...

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E82-135.../Tips/ES40649/