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      01-30-2012, 10:19 PM   #23
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Mine runs on methane from converted pigs manure - car goes like stink.
Literally ...
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      01-30-2012, 10:29 PM   #24
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I fill up on Caltex 98 only cause it's 200m from my home. Always have some MS109 in the garage to have some more fun but at $10 a litre one can go bankrupt quite fast.
I use Mobile 1 0W40. Change between 4000-5000 whenever is convenient.
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      01-30-2012, 10:38 PM   #25
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Usually Caltex 98, or BP Ultimate. But in the 3 years I've had the car, and using all 3 of the big brands, I can't tell the difference.
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      01-30-2012, 11:03 PM   #26
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I use BP Ultimate 98 and Motul 300V 10/40 every 5000KM for me its free
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      01-31-2012, 01:22 AM   #27
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Hahahaha - I actually 'laughed out loud' at this - people at the office were looking at me stranger than usual

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeef Beef View Post
whatever fuel was in the car I siphoned out of. I try to pick high performance cars to maximise my chances of good octane petrol
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      01-31-2012, 03:15 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimMc View Post
E10 fuel & Homebrand oil.
Canola or Sesame? My mother-in-law made a nice sichuan pepper infused canola oil when she was here, mayber it's good for a few extra killer wasps...

I think ianf's point was around the idea of while blunt, his point is valid. Using this would have turned up a number of threads from the past three years on the topic.

but since you asked, 98RON fuel except I avoid Shell V-power on the advice that some of the additives (yes I know all fuels have additives) aren't particularly conducive to performance.

10W-60 oil as it doesn't get cold enough here to warrant a lower winter rated multi-grade oil, and I want the higher end protection. Change it every 6,000-8,000 kms using an OEM filter and Castrol oil.

Changed the transmission oil at about 34,000km, there's a thread with the details buried somewhere.

Last edited by MikeVictor; 01-31-2012 at 04:38 AM..
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      01-31-2012, 08:35 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattyv
Quote:
Originally Posted by TimMc View Post
E10 fuel & Homebrand oil.
Canola or Sesame? My mother-in-law made a nice sichuan pepper infused canola oil when she was here, mayber it's good for a few extra killer wasps...

I think ianf's point was around the idea of while blunt, his point is valid. Using this would have turned up a number of threads from the past three years on the topic.

but since you asked, 98RON fuel except I avoid Shell V-power on the advice that some of the additives (yes I know all fuels have additives) aren't particularly conducive to performance.

10W-60 oil as it doesn't get cold enough here to warrant a lower winter rated multi-grade oil, and I want the higher end protection. Change it every 6,000-8,000 kms using an OEM filter and Castrol oil.

Changed the transmission oil at about 34,000km, there's a thread with the details buried somewhere.
Waiting on Dac to say 10w60 is too thick for our engine
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      01-31-2012, 08:36 AM   #30
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^ iPad app quote bug
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      01-31-2012, 08:43 AM   #31
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Like someone said before, the actual fuel that you get doesn't necessarily come from the brand you buy it from, all fuel in QLD only comes from two sources: BP and Caltex, in NSW it looks like Caltex is the sole remaining refinery, Shell has or is shutting down its refinery (turning it into Import terminal).

Victoria has Mobil and Shell, SA has well nothing, and WA is BP

So if you go to a BP in NSW you'll either be buying Caltex or Shell fuel, depending on which one the BP distributor got it the cheapest for that tanker load...

If you live in QLD, and go to Shell or an independant then you're getting BP or Caltex.

Realistically its not like any of the companies are going to refine it to have a higher octane rating / performance etc... than they need to, anywhere you're going to get 98 from will be the same as the other petrol station down the road, its basically all the same stuff that goes into their tanks...

I remember it used to be a hit and miss affair for a while before they brought in mandatory labeling of fuels containing Ethanol.

But these days, unlike Oils, Fuels are Fuels.... and with any of our cars, with their advanced knock sensors etc... a tank of 91 isn't going to hurt them.
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      01-31-2012, 09:40 AM   #32
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Exclamation BMW Long Life-1 (LL1) oils: 0w40, 5w30 or 0w30 grades

Quote:
Originally Posted by sparoz View Post
Waiting on Dack to say 10w60 is too thick for our engine

Yes, it IS too thick(!) and does not comply with what BMW says to use in the N55/N54 motors!

OP - you should only use oil that carries BMW type approval:

BMW Long Life-1 (LL1) rating and that comes in 0w40, 5w30 or 0w30 grades. API SM(or higher), ACEA C2, C3

Any oil that meets all these criteria can be used. There are not many oils that meet the above criteria.


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      01-31-2012, 02:49 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
Yes, it IS too thick(!) and does not comply with what BMW says to use in the N55/N54 motors!

OP - you should only use oil that carries BMW type approval:

BMW Long Life-1 (LL1) rating and that comes in 0w40, 5w30 or 0w30 grades. API SM(or higher), ACEA C2, C3

Any oil that meets all these criteria can be used. There are not many oils that meet the above criteria.


Dackel
Hi Dack,

I know you like to fly the flag for the company on this one and I agree that I wouldn't recommend a 10W-60 for all cars in all climates.

When I'm dealing with a temperature range of 5C-38C for the year, can you share technical reasons why the oil isn't suitable, other than "BMW said so?"

Again, personally speaking, I'd rather the protection at higher temps I get with this oil especially given the tendency for our cars to run comparitively quite hot.
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      01-31-2012, 03:08 PM   #34
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Castrol and V power.

I believe these to be good, I heard something about BP not being as good as Shell fuel. Also about Royal Purple which I used at times not being as good as Castrol but to find The best oil it depends what grade you are using.
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      01-31-2012, 03:51 PM   #35
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Slightly off topic, but for the Brisbane guys, has anyone tried United Fuels 100 Octane? I just drove past a station that now has it.

Did a quick google and apparently it's similar to V-power 100 when it was here. It's a mix of 10% Ethanol, http://www.unitedpetroleum.com.au/fuels/premium-100

I know United isn't exactly the first place I'd go for fuel, so was a bit hesitant in trying it out, but I've never come across 100 Octane since Shell stopped selling it...
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      01-31-2012, 06:31 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BBK View Post
Slightly off topic, but for the Brisbane guys, has anyone tried United Fuels 100 Octane? I just drove past a station that now has it.

Did a quick google and apparently it's similar to V-power 100 when it was here. It's a mix of 10% Ethanol, http://www.unitedpetroleum.com.au/fuels/premium-100

I know United isn't exactly the first place I'd go for fuel, so was a bit hesitant in trying it out, but I've never come across 100 Octane since Shell stopped selling it...
I'm a bit hesitant too because I am inclined to think they either added octane booster to get 100RON or just put ethanol in to increase knock resistance. E10 actually has a RON of approx 94 since it is more resistant to knock. E85 is over 100. However, RON is no indication of how much energy is in the fuel, plus ethanol has a bunch of other nasty side effects.

Plus think about how many people get that fuel...which means it probably sits in the storage tank for months at a time. We all know that petrol starts going stale if you store it for long periods.
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      01-31-2012, 07:08 PM   #37
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Yeah, I might try a tank and see how it goes. It's only new so it can't have been sitting there for long.

I have tried a mix of E85 and 98RON before and it went fine so this can't be too bad.
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      01-31-2012, 07:13 PM   #38
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From the chief engineer who designed the injectors for our car, in regards to E85

"Have you experience with this engine and E85 fuel or do you have any thought on it ? Can e.g. the injectors handle alcohol ?

We have a lot of experience with E85. Currently, we have an issue that if the injector is hotter than 100 Celsius, we are seeing melting of the fuel filter in the injectors. As long as the temperature of the injector stays under the 100 Celsius, this engine is perferctly capable to run E85. As a matter of fact, it will run E100 without any problem under cold conditions. There is no need to preheat the fuel.
We are investigating the filter issue, and we hope to have a solution next year. Whether or not we will create injectors for this engine, depends on the market (read: BMW).
It is not possible to replace this filter yourself; you cannot open the injector to get to that part."

Thought it would be interesting for people, though I suppose the other parts of the engine might not be able to handle E85.
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      01-31-2012, 08:29 PM   #39
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really? I've heard that shell put more alcohol in their fuel which increase the engine temperature and power but it will damage the engine too...
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      01-31-2012, 08:38 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BBK View Post
Slightly off topic, but for the Brisbane guys, has anyone tried United Fuels 100 Octane? I just drove past a station that now has it.

Did a quick google and apparently it's similar to V-power 100 when it was here. It's a mix of 10% Ethanol, http://www.unitedpetroleum.com.au/fuels/premium-100

I know United isn't exactly the first place I'd go for fuel, so was a bit hesitant in trying it out, but I've never come across 100 Octane since Shell stopped selling it...
Where is this servo Rich? About a year ago I started looking into United Petroleum fuel and they didn't supply 100RON anywhere in Brisbane. I later found out that the increase in 2RON is due to 10% ethanol mix which put me off. When things slow down for me I might fill up a 20L jerry can and do some back to back logs and test it out. Only way to know for sure.
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      01-31-2012, 08:41 PM   #41
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All good I found it Richard. About 12 months ago there wasn't any United's that sold this fuel and now there is quite a few. Quite a few on the south side

Btw, just called up and they said it's $1.54 so it's reasonably priced too.

Last edited by BMW86; 01-31-2012 at 09:24 PM..
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      01-31-2012, 09:53 PM   #42
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I saw it at the Hillcrest/Boronia Heights one on Middle Rd, so not far from you.
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      02-01-2012, 04:55 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewCowley View Post
I understand that oils ain't oils, and as a result oil choice is the basis of many forum wars. However, if one choses to change their oil frequently (every 6 months) then surely any differences (e.g. Castrol Edge Sport vs. factory Castrol, as someone asked above) are minimal and not worth worrying about especially so for an unmodified car?
nah, there are quantifiable differences in the quality of fresh oils

ftr, BP 98, all i know is it has more toluene than any other 98 octane. Vpower ran shit in my LANCER. vortex i hear is alright though.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeef Beef View Post
I'm a bit hesitant too because I am inclined to think they either added octane booster to get 100RON or just put ethanol in to increase knock resistance. E10 actually has a RON of approx 94 since it is more resistant to knock. E85 is over 100. However, RON is no indication of how much energy is in the fuel, plus ethanol has a bunch of other nasty side effects.

Plus think about how many people get that fuel...which means it probably sits in the storage tank for months at a time. We all know that petrol starts going stale if you store it for long periods.
depends. shell E10 was 94 (varied) BP was 91.



E85 is something like 114 octane though
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      02-01-2012, 04:45 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flinchy View Post
nah, there are quantifiable differences in the quality of fresh oils

ftr, BP 98, all i know is it has more toluene than any other 98 octane. Vpower ran shit in my LANCER. vortex i hear is alright though.



depends. shell E10 was 94 (varied) BP was 91



E85 is something like 114 octane though
I had the impression that E10 was just 91 petrol mixed with 10% ethanol, and since ethanol has higher knock resistance, increases RON to 94. If BP E10 is STILL only 91 AFTER adding ethanol, that means they are mixing something like 88RON fuel with E10 to achieve the 91 rating. I would not put that shit in any car.

Ethanol has higher knock resistance than petrol, but lower specific output per litre. If the 100RON rating is achieved via ethanol addition on 98RON fuel, then it should be CHEAPER than 98 just like how E10 is cheaper than regular 91. If it's not, then you are essentially being ripped off with fuel that gives less energy output. RON should not be indicative of price if there are additions into the petrol.
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