When to use Loctite vs Anti-Seize

[drufe]

In the next week or two, I'm going to be doing some upgrades to my suspension (coilovers, M3 control arms, Dinan camber plates, etc) and I was wondering on what parts should I be using Loctite vs. Anti-seize compound? I know the general rule of thumb is to use Loctite on things that won't be coming apart often or ever and anti-seize on things you want/need to remove again (like brake caliper bolts). Will that pretty much cover me or is there some better wisdom out there that I should know about?

Thanks!

[Dackelone]

I believe the suspension bolts are stretch bolts - meaning you can not reuse them. You might want to check with your bmw dealer.

Every tool box should have some blue and red loctite as well as some anti-seize in it.

[AlBinVA]

Your rule of thumb is spot on.

[Suds]

Originally Posted by drufe

In the next week or two, I'm going to be doing some upgrades to my suspension (coilovers, M3 control arms, Dinan camber plates, etc) and I was wondering on what parts should I be using Loctite vs. Anti-seize compound? I know the general rule of thumb is to use Loctite on things that won't be coming apart often or ever and anti-seize on things you want/need to remove again (like brake caliper bolts). Will that pretty much cover me or is there some better wisdom out there that I should know about?

Thanks!

OP, you rule is good, as an engineer I add, always use anti-seize if both parts are the same material, this keeps galling from happening where the parts weld together from friction, our rule at work is always use two different materials at connections. Like stainless steel and alloy steel will not gall.

WTF, I'm trying to think of what parts on a car would gall together, nevermind.

From one of our techs.
Galling is like when two dogs get stuck humping, yep, he's from the country.

[blinded]

Anti-seize is for dissimilar metals. Spark plugs are the canonical example.

[drufe]

Thanks for all the advice and feedback, guys. Particularly the nice visual of dogs humping. I'll never forget what galling means.

[BrokenVert]

Originally Posted by blinded

Anti-seize is for dissimilar metals. Spark plugs are the canonical example.

Also wheels.


A bit of anti seize on the studs and the hubs makes taking them off in 6 months a wonderful experience.

[Pyrat 2]

Originally Posted by BrokenVert

Also wheels.


A bit of anti seize on the studs and the hubs makes taking them off in 6 months a wonderful experience.

+1

[n2djazz]

I've some say use anti-seize on the N54 spark plugs and I've heard some say not to use it. I tend to believe in the use of anti-seize. Your thoughts?

[Suds]

Humping dog is back.
Locations where there is a lot of heat will dry out lubricants on threads, spark plugs, brakes etc. Most fasteners on cars, bolts, are high tensile strength and low elongation, they will snap if their strength is exceeded by mutch, because they don't stretch excessively like cheap stainless.
In areas that get hot, the lube on the threads will dry up over time, the engaged threads now have a low coefficient of friction, lower than when installed from being cooked, and the bolt will snap when you try to remove it.
Damn, you need anti-seize here.
In locations up to 350f, of high vibration, normal stuff, loctite blue 242 is good for most dry applications, red 266 works well wet.

[Southjersey128]

The only problem with using anti seize and loc tite is it changes the actual torque when tightening. So if BMW says 100 Ft lbs on a bolt, it means dry. When you add anti seize to it, it may not be as tight as it should be because of the lube.

[drufe]

So I guess my question would be: should I use anything when installing my new M3 control arms, or just go dry?

[Suds]

I would go with the instructions, if they were included, if a torque is specified without reference to lube, then they assume the bolt is dry, no loctite or lube is needed.

[S4Sprint]

I generally apply a drop of thread locker on suspension pieces as it may prevent the fastener from loosening and may prevent corrosion to some degree on the threads.

[ggcadc]

suspension, if it has torque specs, use them. if it doesnt, use lots of torque and relax. i would never use antiseize on suspension parts, that's for very specific applications where seizure is likely, suspension can take abuse and hammering to get out if necessary with minimal risk of damage.


thread locker is again for parts where it is likely to come apart and applying sufficient torque is difficult, this is not the case with most suspension parts, i cant think of a single time I used thread locker on a suspension part.

[n2djazz]

I found this interesting thread by NGK. Basically it says if the plugs have a shiny plating on the thread then anti seize is not needed.

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/TB-...1antisieze.pdf