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[J-Sud]

Originally Posted by mikeo

That's right, only the 8.5s up front need spacers.

ptack, I painted out the red stripe with black.

what kind of paint/prep work did you do?

I want the black wheels since my car will be BSM, but i will have to see if i will like the stripe.......

[mikeo]

Originally Posted by J-Sud

what kind of paint/prep work did you do?...

Simple 1/2 pint satin black Rust-O-Leum and a very small brush. Did the painting on brand new wheels before they had tires mounted--didn't even sand. Took 45 minutes. If it ever peels, I'll touch them up.

[CAMike]

Love the wheels without the red stripe...how did you get them without it?

[mikeo]

Originally Posted by CAMike

Love the wheels without the red stripe...how did you get them without it?

See two posts up for explanation.

[J-Sud]

Originally Posted by mikeo

See two posts up for explanation.

[ptack]

Well done with the de-striping. Looks much better.

[CAMike]

Thanks Mikeo...was early morning and missed the post where you said how you did it. Looks great!!

[///M ichael]

Mikeo!
Can I run 8.5 235Front and 8.5 255Rear with a H&R sport spring drop?
Getting my suspension done in 2 weeks and will like some fat tires...

[joe black]

My basic issue - DForce Empower 18x8.5 front and rear; Star specs 225/40 front and 245/40 rear - major rubbing in rears. I have cut off almost eveything I can from the inside of the rear wheel well.

I adjusted the rear camber to 85% of the maximum the lower control arm would allow. We did not have any gauges but the rear wheel started out with some negative camber and we basically doubled it. According to the boards, 135 rear camber should range from -1.6 to -2.1. Based on this, I would guess I am at -1.9.

Before we did this, we measured the toe for the rears. Turns out that the rears were toed ‘out’ about ½ inch. Why would this be the OEM setting?

When we adjusted the rear camber, this made the rear toe out worse – basically doubling it. So we adjusted the rear toe out to make it neutral …or as close as we could given what that strut would allow – maybe ¼ inch toe out when all was done.

Here is the irony. The point of all this was to create more clearance for my new wheels and tires. While the increased negative camber did help some, making the toe neutral made the problem worse. This is because the rear tires rub most at the rear top of the tire. When the wheel was toes out, the tire fit under the fender better.

I am tempted to go back, max out the camber, and toe out the rears again. But this does not make sense to me…conversely the OEM setup with rear toe out does not make sense either.

Any advice is welcome.

[twinturbo135i]

this is the reason why I am sooo glad I decided to go with stock sizes on both tires and wheels when I ordered my Breyton and Yokohama S-Drive combination.

tire rubbing would've driven me insane.