2011 135i w/DCT No Crank/No Start

[BMWguy206]

Hey guys,

I have a 2011 135i with DCT transmission and it has a no crank/no start. Battery is good. It made a loud click so I figured the starter got seized up. Couldn't tap the starter because the DME and manifold were in the way. After working on the car for more than 4 hours, the new starter didn't work and makes the same loud click. I thought the engine might have seized up but I was able to turn it by hand. The starter is a Bosch rebuilt. Any thoughts?

[captain slowly]

how do you know the battery is good? I had the same symptoms as you, where even a jump start with a battery pack wouldn't work, and it ended up being the battery for me. Did you load test the battery?

[MightyMouseTech]

Check the positive cables at the underhood charging point and point where the cables come together. Common failure.

[BMWguy206]

Originally Posted by captain slowly

how do you know the battery is good? I had the same symptoms as you, where even a jump start with a battery pack wouldn't work, and it ended up being the battery for me. Did you load test the battery?

Thanks for your response. I had the battery on a high amp charger and no change. Even after a few hours after charging the battery, battery voltage remained at 12 volts. The only time it would drop to 11volts or 10.9volts is when I try to start the car.

[NorthernDancer]

Originally Posted by BMWguy206

Thanks for your response. I had the battery on a high amp charger and no change. Even after a few hours after charging the battery, battery voltage remained at 12 volts. The only time it would drop to 11volts or 10.9volts is when I try to start the car.

Something very wrong here. A battery on charge should read 13.5 - 14 volts. After removed from charger, should still read over 13 volts. Even a good battery can drop to 9.6 volts while cranking.

Follow MMT's advice above. Most electrical issues are loose or dirty connections.

[Esteban]

Just a thought, but did you have the battery cable recall done?

[BMWguy206]

Found the problem. Stupid Battery Positive cable that runs from the jumper terminal to the starter and to the alternator was broken. I was checking all of the ground cables and they were good. Check the battery cable and when I wiggled the cable next to the battery positive terminal, the cable just came off. I jumped it and the engine started. Thanks MightyMouseTech and to everyone else that responded!

Looking at the diagram, I will have to remove the intake manifold to replace the cable since they are bolts to the alternator and starter.

[NorthernDancer]

Mighty Mouse strikes again.

[sandlion]

had that happen on mine, same symptoms. took a few hours to replace. I removed the throttle body and they say to put a new gasket when you do that.

[JCip91]

You might be able to just crimp another connector on the wire and bolt it back on. Judging from your picture it looks like it wouldn't be too hard.

[juld0zer]

I dont remember where i read it but that cable is made of aluminium, not copper to save weight.

Mine did the same and i just chopped off about 20cm and crimped a proper copper section and an eye lug on the other side. Saves the effort of accessing the starter!

[HyeWarrior]

Same thing happened to me a few months ago

[sandlion]

Originally Posted by juld0zer

I dont remember where i read it but that cable is made of aluminium, not copper to save weight.

Mine did the same and i just chopped off about 20cm and crimped a proper copper section and an eye lug on the other side. Saves the effort of accessing the starter!

I tried to crimp but didn't have the proper tools, and the connection was not good, and was overheating. so if you try crimping just be sure to do it correctly like this guy did!

I ended up replacing the entire wire after my crimping attempt failed. the dealer had it in stock so it was the easiest route for me at that point. and yes, the starter nut was very tricky!

[djkaka76773]

What size is that nut