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11-30-2011, 12:19 PM | #23 |
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OK, I was wrong, it does stay in auto mode when you turn off the AC button. Although I could swear it didn't use to do that.
In any case, it probably depends on where you live. Here in AZ, humidity is rarely a problem, especially in the winter. So it's still a waste to run the compressor when it's cool. Thanks for straightening me out everybody, I will use this more often now. |
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11-30-2011, 12:42 PM | #24 |
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Most cars run the A/C when you set it to defrost the front window. May or not make you aware of it in the process, but do it. If our Auto mode hits the front window it's not surprising it turns the A/C on as well.
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11-30-2011, 01:23 PM | #25 |
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My 2006 Suzuki SUV works the same as my 2009 128i vert. Auto turns on the AC, pushing the AC button turns it back off. Most of the time, it is set in Auto with AC off. I don't like having to set the temp slider to get the temperature I want but I want to decide if I need the AC or not. I don't fully understand what the bimmer is doing yet but the zuk likes to switch on the AC on cool days just because the temp inside the car is high. Running the vent solves it in a couple minutes. Silly to run the AC. The zuk also wants to run in recirc mode - even under these circumstances.
I like conveniences but I also want the car to do what I want it to do. And yes, my bimmer (and zuk) are manual transmissions. Jim
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11-30-2011, 03:16 PM | #26 |
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you're right. the main and most important purpose is keeping the windows DEGOGGED.
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11-30-2011, 05:05 PM | #28 | |
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2. The eastern US tends to have much lower humidity in the winter so defogging is normally not required. And if it is, is it that hard to push the damn snowflake button? I'm reminded of my 1973 Plymouth Fury which featured an A/C compressor which was designed to always be engaged whenever the motor was running. As A/C dropped the 400ci engine's fuel mileage from about 11 to 8 mpg, I wired a switch to turn it off. At least our modern cars have that switch. Tom |
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11-30-2011, 05:33 PM | #29 | |
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11-30-2011, 08:45 PM | #31 |
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11-30-2011, 09:44 PM | #32 | |
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So I don't believe it's on your car. Tom |
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11-30-2011, 09:58 PM | #33 |
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I think so. I know for sure this was a change on the 2010 335
Last edited by BimmerEnthusiast99; 12-01-2011 at 12:14 AM.. |
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12-02-2011, 12:12 PM | #35 |
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The Rest function was sppressed in 2010 or 2011. My 2011 does not have it
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12-02-2011, 01:10 PM | #37 | |
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This is about the air inside of the car, not out. The air starts drier but as you and / or other passengers breathe inside the car the humidity goes up. Not much but noticeable. The real problem is the outside temperature making the windows very cold. Now that humidity condenses on them. Ever see a foggy window in the summer? No. Ever see it in winter? Yes, all the time - well in MN I do. |
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12-02-2011, 02:09 PM | #39 | |
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Also, having the ac cycle every once and a while helps deal with the collection of stagnet condensate that collects in the evaporator box... the ac on cause fresh condensate to wash things down, sort to speak. also cycling the ac helps keep all the seals and the ac clutch cycled. ever try to start a car that hasent been started in a while... first thing to seize is the ac clutch.. hence all the red dust near the ac
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12-03-2011, 10:08 AM | #40 | |
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Tom |
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12-05-2011, 11:03 AM | #41 |
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12-12-2011, 08:45 AM | #42 | |
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12-12-2011, 11:44 AM | #43 |
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Power Loss
I notice a slight power loss ~5-10% when the A/C compressor is engaged. I am almost positive that it is not in my head. Anyone else feel that way?
My Ford Ranger could barely get out of its own way when the compressor is engaged. Well it could barely ever get out of its own way - it was just even more pronounced when the ac was on. |
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12-12-2011, 12:00 PM | #44 | |
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