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01-04-2013, 07:42 PM | #23 |
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01-04-2013, 07:47 PM | #24 |
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01-05-2013, 01:47 AM | #25 |
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I am considering a set of ST's but still a little skeptical of the quality concerning the collars being plastic. It's this or KW's and I can't decide.
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01-06-2013, 01:09 AM | #26 | |
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Mine ride really great, I'd recommend them for a great drop for a great price and great ride. |
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01-06-2013, 03:16 PM | #27 | |
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2009 135i - SG/Coral - 19" Alufelgen SF-71 - ST Coilovers - Cobb Stage 2+ - AR Downpipes - Berk Sport Exhaust - Active Autowerke Charge Pipe - AMS FMIC - AFE DCI - LUX V3 Angel Eyes - LCI Blacklines - Active Autowerke Strut Tower Brace - BMW Performance CF Spoiler - Kerscher Carbon Splitter - Scopian CF Diffuser - MusicarNW Level 2
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08-01-2013, 04:17 AM | #28 |
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Thanks for the DIY, does anyone happen to know the torque values for everything?
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08-08-2013, 10:51 AM | #29 |
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If you get a hold of a manual, that'll probably tell you. I just go by feel. (Not exactly by the books, but my car stays together and every other one that I've worked on) Except the wheel bolts, they're way to easy to over-tighten.
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08-08-2013, 10:52 AM | #30 |
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Something else I should add, that trunk liner is easy to take in and out if you do it properly. By properly, I mean that you remove the rear seat and the side bolsters. then it slips in and out no issues. In case any one is fighting with it.
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08-08-2013, 12:11 PM | #31 |
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I have my trunk liner out quite a few times and it is currently out at the moment as I am adjusting the shocks.
However I don't remove the seats nor side bolster. I do lower the seats though. I put the liners back by wedging the tips in first into the side bolster, at about 45 degrees, once that is in, then the rest will fit back. I will take some pictures later when I put my back in. |
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08-08-2013, 12:43 PM | #32 |
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Few tips - for the fronts you only need to remove the pinch bolt, the three upper tower nuts and sway endlink connection to the strut. You then turn the wheel at full lock away from the side of the car you're on (clockwise turn for drivers side) and the strut assembly can be carefully pulled from the hub assembly. No need to remove the tie rod connection or leveling links. YMMV, but I've done this on a few 1'ers. Just push the caliper down with your foot to get the clearance you need.
For the rears, just pull the liner a bit there is no need to remove the whole thing. Always work on the front with BOTH wheels at full droop, otherwise the sway will load the end links and be impossible to insert/remove without a struggle. Enjoy!!
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08-31-2013, 08:41 PM | #33 | |
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Also for anyone wondering about torque specs, I found them all in this video by by ECS Tuning: http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=810625. With that video and this DIY I felt pretty comfortable and had no problems, thanks! One tip I want to share is that when loosening the knuckle around the front struts, instead of using a chisel, you can simply use a 6-8mm hex socket by pushing it between the gap and rotating it 1/4 with a breaker-bar which will safely spread the knuckle. It's basically the same thing as http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E82-135...ader/ES198389/. Last edited by worries; 08-31-2013 at 08:50 PM.. Reason: Added tip |
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03-30-2014, 06:43 PM | #35 |
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04-17-2015, 02:26 PM | #37 |
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Nice write up, should be easy enough as my e46 was. One question though, why do you suggest putting anti-seize on the perch threads?
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04-19-2015, 09:49 AM | #38 |
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Probably not necessary, I just try to make life easier in the future for adjustments and if anything else needs to be done. Simple oil on the threads would probably be sufficient to make the adjusters turn smoother.
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08-03-2015, 02:26 AM | #39 |
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Having a hard time lining up the lower control arm to the wheel hub to get the bolt through. Any tips?
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08-04-2015, 04:06 PM | #40 |
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Figured it out by doing a combination of the following:
Adjusting camber eccentric bolt on the lower control arm. Raising/lowering control arm with jack. Raising/lowering wheel hub with another jack. It seems like you have to have the control arm and hub at just the right height for it to line up vertically, and then use the camber adjustment to line it up horizontally. I put a mark on the eccentric bolt and control arm to get the camber back to as close as it was before, that way the camber/toe was good enough for me to drive to the alignment shop. |
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08-20-2015, 07:15 PM | #41 | |
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09-21-2016, 05:54 PM | #42 |
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Wheel Size and offset numbers
Hello AKOPP
Just wanted to thank you for this older post and directions on installing ST Coil overs. Everything went exactly as planned in your directions until I went to install the wheels back on the car. I have purchased a set of APEX wheels which I really am happy with. Unfortunately, I went with 8.5 in the front with a 45 offset. The rims are 18’s. I presume I will have to now figure out a spacer system to make this work as the rims hit on the coil inside of the wheel. I was wondering what size rims you used and what their offset was. Hopefully you are still around on this site. |
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