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01-14-2012, 03:36 PM | #1 |
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Intercooler and Down Pipes then JB4?
Hey guys sorry for so many noob questions, just got my 135i a couple of weeks ago and I am slowly learning. I was talking to one of my friends about getting a JB4 chip and he told me before I do to change my intercooler and down pipes, he said it would be much more safe and won't mess up the car. I was wondering is this true why or why not. Anything would help me. If true what intercooler and down pipes do you recommend for a n54. Thanks a lot!
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01-14-2012, 03:41 PM | #2 |
NCOIC of Kickin It
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intercooler first is fine. but if you go catless dp's, i would do them after, or at the same time as the JB4, to keep your check engine light from coming on
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01-14-2012, 04:21 PM | #4 |
NCOIC of Kickin It
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some people will drop $750+ on downpipes, I have AA's which are priced midrange. Honestly, if i were doing it again, id go with racelands. they are 2.5" all the way to the outlet, so there is more room=easier install. they are also about $250 bucks. so you could get dp's and JB4 for cheaper than some of the "Brand Name" dp's that do the same exact thing. A pipe is a pipe. Racelands might not come with a fancy heat coating (you can get them coated if you want, for a couple hundred bucks, or heat wrap them, for $50) the welds might not be the best in the world, but quite a few people are running them with no issues. raceland is also an established company, that makes parts for VW's, and i know a bunch of VW guys that run their products, and are all satisfied.
I have an ETS intercooler and its amazing. It replaces the pipe that goes from the intercooler to the charge pipe, with a wider-than-factory pipe, so flow is increased (the charge pipe probably still bottlenecks it, but you can buy a new charge pipe for under $300). It also requires no trimming, and the bumper doesnt have to be removed for the install, those things matter to some people. The quality was great, the end tanks seem like they were designed well, and the welds were amazing. I think i paid $600 for mine, but cant remember for sure. If you buy those 3 things, and a meth kit (BMS, CoolingMist, Snow, all make great kits) you are looking at 400+ whp for $2,000 or less. Meth will also help a great deal with heatsoak, keeping combustion temps down under spirited/track driving. Just something to think about. probably looking at 350-375whp without meth. for 1500 bucks. great bang for your buck. |
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01-19-2012, 06:44 AM | #10 |
livin la vida rapida!!
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+1!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Cobb AP stage 2+,MS DP's, Maddad Whisper, AA FMIC, BMS DCI, M3 Front Sway Bar, CF Spoiler, CF Diffuser,iCarbon Front Lip,Tints, Lux H8 V3, Black Kidney Grill, Alufelgen SF-71 19"
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01-19-2012, 01:43 PM | #11 |
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Currently running JB4 and an intake, no issues. I did the tune first because it was the most HP gain for the $$$. The DP's and intercooler will help lots too. IMO i would do the tune first then followed by the DP/intercooler.
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BMW 135i/6 Speed/Montego Blue/Formula One Ceramic Tint/JB4 G4/AA Sport Intercooler/19 inch Iconz 880Z(19X8.5 & 19X10)/PSS 225/35 & 265/30/E93 M3 front sway bar/TRW front and rear Control Arms/BMS Drop In Filter/Dinan Exhaust/BlackLines/Upgraded \\\M RSFB |
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01-19-2012, 05:25 PM | #12 |
Spoolin' & droolin'
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Have to look into these, never heard of them....
I didn't know we could do a tune before upgrading the intercooler first....this is good information. If you did the tune and then upgrade DP/intercooler/intake, would you need to do tune again or would it learn itself? This is my first BMW, I'm coming from the Honda (s2000) scene so stuff is a lot different with BMW, and still learning. Any information would be greatly appreciated. |
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01-19-2012, 05:31 PM | #13 |
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^depends on which tune you get, but the stock ecu adapts very quickly. you can run full-bolt ons on the stock ecu without causing any issues. unlike honda's (and evo/sti's), this ecu learns very quickly and is closed loop.
if you get a cobb accessport, you just have to upload a new map, which takes a min or two if you've already installed it. procede and jb4 are slightly easier, although you may need to hook-up a laptop to those tunes to adjust settings or load a more appropriate firmware/map |
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01-19-2012, 05:51 PM | #14 | |
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Thanks again for the help and sorry to somewhat thread jack this OP. |
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01-20-2012, 07:59 AM | #15 |
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You can adjust the settings yourself. Honestly- don't get a jb4; it only controls air/fuel and boost, it doesn't control timing. Get a procede or cobb accessport- they're complete tunes. Proced allows you to change boost, ignition correction, etc. Cobb will too, eventually. I've owned all major tunes (jb3, jb4, procede, cobb) and I prefer the way the procede drives best.
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02-01-2012, 01:45 PM | #16 | |
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02-01-2012, 02:00 PM | #17 | |
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Drives: 2008 135i 6MT
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2008 135i - FBO + JB4 15ohm + Water Meth
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02-01-2012, 03:31 PM | #18 |
livin la vida rapida!!
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+1!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Cobb AP stage 2+,MS DP's, Maddad Whisper, AA FMIC, BMS DCI, M3 Front Sway Bar, CF Spoiler, CF Diffuser,iCarbon Front Lip,Tints, Lux H8 V3, Black Kidney Grill, Alufelgen SF-71 19"
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02-01-2012, 03:34 PM | #19 | |
The Stig!
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Quote:
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=642945
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2008 135i - FBO + JB4 15ohm + Water Meth
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02-01-2012, 10:29 PM | #20 |
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I'll say this in relation to the raceland DP's, the 2.5" pipe makes the exhaust a little more raspy ( i am also running berk mid pipes and berk race muffler delete) when i put on my AR DP's it got noticeably deeper. If you only plan on doing DP's and leaving the rest stock racelands might not be a bad choice. Best advice would be to keep a watchful eye on the for sale section, good parts go fast.
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02-03-2012, 09:42 AM | #22 |
The Stig!
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How is that ignorance? A car with similiar mods put down 39*whp running similiar mods and on E85 and map 7? I never said JB4 is best, I just said it does me just fine and I am happy with it. You make it sound like you know some special secret with something against the JB4 that nobody else knows.
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