Painting aftermarket exhaust tips

lithium1330 · 11-12-2010, 03:51 PM

I didn't find any related posts on this subject, so here is a quick write up for those interested in tackling...

My fiancee just bought the Berk axle-back (from another board member) and I took the day off to install it for her. As we were chatting last night about the install, I asked if I could paint the exhaust tips black (from the polished stainless). I have nothing against polished stainless. They look great if you have other polished stainless or chrome pieces on the car. Though exterior of her car has the black shadow line, black grill, darker tint... etc... so, the polished SS would look kinda out of place.
Before the install this morning I went to pick up a can of the gloss black engine paint - temperature rated to 500 degrees. Based on some research I did, exhaust tip temp usually avg about 300 degrees for most cars - even those with high flow systems. So, 500 should be acceptable. Plus, I think you'll only have flat black in the 1000 degrees range. Ideally, you want to do this with the exhaust off the car - it's just much much easier to maneuver the exhaust for prep and paint.
BTW, if anyone has an IR temp gauge, I would be interested in seeing some actual temp data off the 135's.

Get to work... Prep is the most important part of any painting project. With polished steel, you need to scuff up/dull the polish up with sand paper. I used 320 grit scuff up the tips. Take your time to make sure the polish is gone from the finish:
Left: (sanded), Right: (untouched)

Sand both tips... all around, including the inside.

Masking is optional, but makes for a cleaner look when done. Plus, no worries about paint spray getting to other parts of the muffler. Before painting, I used a clean cloth and wipe the tips clean with alcohol (rubbing alcohol will do fine, beer or liquor not so much).

Next is laying down the paint. Can spray paint is easy to use... just spray the tips in an even, sweeping motion of left to right. No need for heavy/thick coats since you'll do at least 2 more. Read the directions on can, paint I used calls for 10 minutes between coats.

I took my time removing the factory exhaust while I let the paint dry. Once paint is dry, you may want to cover it with bubble wrap or something so they don't get scuffed during installation. Note: some paint takes longer to cure than others, so you may need to be careful wrapping the tips in bubble wrap.

Here is what it looks like once installed - glossy black, matches the rest of the shadow line trim. In case anyone is wondering, the dish soap is used to "grease" removal and install of the exhaust hangers.

top view:

side view:

All in all, the project took ~4hrs total, with time to take pictures, etc.
Enjoy!

tcd223 · 11-12-2010, 04:00 PM

looks good, now get your diffuser painted.

Elsabor67 · 11-12-2010, 04:45 PM

Definetly like as I just got my exhaust today.

Dackelone · 11-12-2010, 05:13 PM

Your paint work looks great! Me likes.

What kind of exhaust you get Nick?

stevend218 · 11-13-2010, 12:05 PM

thats berks race catback

BerkTechnology · 08-26-2011, 01:12 AM

Looks great! Thanks for the write up!

larramy · 08-29-2011, 10:49 AM

Looks great!

1ToBeOn2Wheels · 10-24-2011, 04:19 PM

Looks great. A nice alternative to paying the extra $100 to have them ceramic coat it. How is it holding up?

Eeighty8 · 11-01-2011, 11:02 PM

I realize this is an old thread, but for anyone thinking of doing this, don't. Paint will not stick to stainless, whether it's 304/316/440 etc. It will eventually chip off, even if it's sanded, sandblasted, soaked in a caustic, etc.

Not all exhaust tips are stainless though, even if the muffler is. Some are mild steel with a chromium plate. Those can be painted if the chrome is blasted off and properly prepped. You can test if it's stainless with a magnet. 304 stainless is very slightly magnetic. Steel obviously is magnetic.

For the record, I work for a 150 year old metal fabrication shop specializing in stainless steel.

lithium1330 · 11-23-2011, 04:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1ToBeOn2Wheels

Looks great. A nice alternative to paying the extra $100 to have them ceramic coat it. How is it holding up?

The paint used is holding up really well since initial post (a year ago)... I haven't noticed or found any paint chip (car puts on 50 HWY miles each day). I did a visual checked when I installed the carbon diffuser in Aug. I thought about put another coat to "freshen it up", but found it wasn't necessary. HTH.

11-12-2010, 03:51 PM	#1
lithium1330 Private 3 Rep 63 Posts Drives: fiancee's 135 when she lets me Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: S. FL iTrader: (3)	Painting aftermarket exhaust tips I didn't find any related posts on this subject, so here is a quick write up for those interested in tackling... My fiancee just bought the Berk axle-back (from another board member) and I took the day off to install it for her. As we were chatting last night about the install, I asked if I could paint the exhaust tips black (from the polished stainless). I have nothing against polished stainless. They look great if you have other polished stainless or chrome pieces on the car. Though exterior of her car has the black shadow line, black grill, darker tint... etc... so, the polished SS would look kinda out of place. Before the install this morning I went to pick up a can of the gloss black engine paint - temperature rated to 500 degrees. Based on some research I did, exhaust tip temp usually avg about 300 degrees for most cars - even those with high flow systems. So, 500 should be acceptable. Plus, I think you'll only have flat black in the 1000 degrees range. Ideally, you want to do this with the exhaust off the car - it's just much much easier to maneuver the exhaust for prep and paint. BTW, if anyone has an IR temp gauge, I would be interested in seeing some actual temp data off the 135's. Get to work... Prep is the most important part of any painting project. With polished steel, you need to scuff up/dull the polish up with sand paper. I used 320 grit scuff up the tips. Take your time to make sure the polish is gone from the finish: Left: (sanded), Right: (untouched) Sand both tips... all around, including the inside. Masking is optional, but makes for a cleaner look when done. Plus, no worries about paint spray getting to other parts of the muffler. Before painting, I used a clean cloth and wipe the tips clean with alcohol (rubbing alcohol will do fine, beer or liquor not so much). Next is laying down the paint. Can spray paint is easy to use... just spray the tips in an even, sweeping motion of left to right. No need for heavy/thick coats since you'll do at least 2 more. Read the directions on can, paint I used calls for 10 minutes between coats. I took my time removing the factory exhaust while I let the paint dry. Once paint is dry, you may want to cover it with bubble wrap or something so they don't get scuffed during installation. Note: some paint takes longer to cure than others, so you may need to be careful wrapping the tips in bubble wrap. Here is what it looks like once installed - glossy black, matches the rest of the shadow line trim. In case anyone is wondering, the dish soap is used to "grease" removal and install of the exhaust hangers. top view: side view: All in all, the project took ~4hrs total, with time to take pictures, etc. Enjoy!
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11-12-2010, 04:00 PM	#2
tcd223 Captain 47 Rep 940 Posts Drives: '10 LeMans 135i Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: NYC iTrader: (1) Garage List 2010 135i [7.00]	looks good, now get your diffuser painted.
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11-12-2010, 04:45 PM	#3
Elsabor67 aiming for 450..... 303 Rep 2,910 Posts Drives: Totaled :-( Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Louisiana iTrader: (28) Garage List 2009 135i [10.00]	Definetly like as I just got my exhaust today. __________________ Quote from Ezeedee regarding car mods: "you're only done when you sell the car "
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11-12-2010, 05:13 PM	#4
Dackelone European Editor 10528 Rep 22,992 Posts Drives: N54 e82 Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Bayern, Germany iTrader: (1)	Your paint work looks great! Me likes. What kind of exhaust you get Nick?
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11-13-2010, 12:05 PM	#5
stevend218 Second Lieutenant 7 Rep 216 Posts Drives: In the left lane Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Phoenix iTrader: (1)	thats berks race catback __________________ 2011 135i AW/CR 6MT \| KW V2's \| Injen CAI \| AR Resonated Downpipe \| Berk Full Street Performance Exhaust System \| Vishnu N55 Tune \| AA Sport FMIC \|
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08-26-2011, 01:12 AM	#6
BerkTechnology Lieutenant Colonel 223 Rep 1,565 Posts Drives: Fast Join Date: May 2008 Location: Irvine, CA iTrader: (1)	Looks great! Thanks for the write up!
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08-29-2011, 10:49 AM	#7
larramy New Member 0 Rep 22 Posts Drives: BMW M135i Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Singapore iTrader: (0)	Looks great!
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10-24-2011, 04:19 PM	#8
1ToBeOn2Wheels Freude am Fahren 31 Rep 703 Posts Drives: B9 Audi S5 Coupe Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Sierra Nevada Foothills, California iTrader: (0)	Looks great. A nice alternative to paying the extra $100 to have them ceramic coat it. How is it holding up?
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11-01-2011, 11:02 PM	#9
Eeighty8 Private 1 Rep 56 Posts Drives: 2010 E88 Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: chicago iTrader: (3)	I realize this is an old thread, but for anyone thinking of doing this, don't. Paint will not stick to stainless, whether it's 304/316/440 etc. It will eventually chip off, even if it's sanded, sandblasted, soaked in a caustic, etc. Not all exhaust tips are stainless though, even if the muffler is. Some are mild steel with a chromium plate. Those can be painted if the chrome is blasted off and properly prepped. You can test if it's stainless with a magnet. 304 stainless is very slightly magnetic. Steel obviously is magnetic. For the record, I work for a 150 year old metal fabrication shop specializing in stainless steel.
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