[bimmernotbeamer]

Originally Posted by FlyingFinn

I have seen many different kinds of polishing pads and I'm a bit confused which ones to use. I have seen orange or yellow color pads which look like regular sponge and black ones which have kind of corrugated surface. I have understood that the yellow ones are used first for remowing swirls with some abrasive polish and the black ones for finishing with non abrasive polish. Is this correct?

Yellow (Cutting) - used with an meduim to heavy abrasive polish to remove medium to heavy swirls. Will have the most cut out of any combination. May leave paint looking hazy (this is OK - supposed to work this way)

White (Polishing) - used with a mild abrasive polish to remove hazing and mild swirls as well as bring out the full gloss in paint.

Orange - Hybrid yellow and white pad that is supposed to have the cut of an orange pad and the finish of a polishing pad and can be used with a mild or medium to heavy abrasive polishes.

Black (Finishing) - Has no cut at all and is used to apply waxes and sealants.

[FlyingFinn]

Originally Posted by DavidN

Yellow (Cutting) - used with an meduim to heavy abrasive polish to remove medium to heavy swirls. Will have the most cut out of any combination. May leave paint looking hazy (this is OK - supposed to work this way)

White (Polishing) - used with a mild abrasive polish to remove hazing and mild swirls as well as bring out the full gloss in paint.

Orange - Hybrid yellow and white pad that is supposed to have the cut of an orange pad and the finish of a polishing pad and can be used with a mild or medium to heavy abrasive polishes.

Black (Finishing) - Has no cut at all and is used to apply waxes and sealants.

Thanks a lot again David. Which brand of pads would you recommend? Have you tried Meguiar's?

[bimmernotbeamer]

Originally Posted by FlyingFinn

Thanks a lot again David. Which brand of pads would you recommend? Have you tried Meguiar's?

I use meguiars pads and I like the way they feel on the PC and the job they do. But I do not like the fact that they are poorly constructed. The velcro will rip off the back of the foam if used on a PC at speed 6 for half-3/4 of a car.

I would advise buying some Lake Country flat pads (as opposed to the Variable Contour aka VC Pads.) One place I know of that carries these pads is http://www.autogeek.net. The pads are called Wolfgang Eurotech foam pads and they are 6.5" (I believe).

[FlyingFinn]

Originally Posted by DavidN

I use meguiars pads and I like the way they feel on the PC and the job they do. But I do not like the fact that they are poorly constructed. The velcro will rip off the back of the foam if used on a PC at speed 6 for half-3/4 of a car.

I would advise buying some Lake Country flat pads (as opposed to the Variable Contour aka VC Pads.) One place I know of that carries these pads is http://www.autogeek.net. The pads are called Wolfgang Eurotech foam pads and they are 6.5" (I believe).

I understood that Porter cable 7424 and 7336 have no other difference than the size of the backing plate (5" and 6") to be used. Can I use 6.5" pads with both of these machines? Or is there something else why either of these would be better than the other?

I'm a total beginner with all this buffing and polishing thing but I really want to try it myself. I even found a tool store here in Finland which sells Porter Cable which on my opinion is quite amazing. When I get all these machines and pads I'll go to local junk yard and buy a hood of some black car and practise the polishing with it before I touch my Bimmer.

[bimmernotbeamer]

Originally Posted by FlyingFinn

I understood that Porter cable 7424 and 7336 have no other difference than the size of the backing plate (5" and 6") to be used. Can I use 6.5" pads with both of these machines? Or is there something else why either of these would be better than the other?

I'm a total beginner with all this buffing and polishing thing but I really want to try it myself. I even found a tool store here in Finland which sells Porter Cable which on my opinion is quite amazing. When I get all these machines and pads I'll go to local junk yard and buy a hood of some black car and practise the polishing with it before I touch my Bimmer.

The difference between the 7424 and 7336 is the size of the counterweight in each machine. 7424 comes with a 5" CW and the 7336 comes with a 6" CW. Usually you are supposed the match up the size of the backing plate with the size of the CW (ex. 6" BP with 6" CW, 5" BP with 5" CW). The reason for doing this is to minimze the vibration created by the machine while it is spinning. However many PC 7424/7336 users do not observe this rule because they cannot feel a difference between BP and CW combination.

Based on the above, I would say to you, buy whatever machine you can get easier and for less money, and use whatever size BP and pads you want. You will have no trouble if you do this.

[lenvage]

Awesome job! I took my car through a touch car wash once and there are swirl marks all over it. I get so pissed off at myself every time I look at my car. I can't wait to get a Porter-Cable polisher and start Zainoing my car back to new.

[aphall]

DavidN, I've been reading up on this backing plate business. A lot of places say to use the same backing plate as the size counterweight as this will not only decrease vibrations, but also increase the life of your PC. Supposedly the excess vibrations will wear on the ball bearings in your PC according to a PC representative. I just bought a 7424 PC, and it comes with a 5" counterweight, and a 6" backing plate. Doesn't that just seem odd that what they say, and what they sell is contradictory?

Anyway, so I've also read not to use the backing plate that comes with your PC. A few places recommend getting a Lake Country backing plate. First, is this true? If so, then I guess I'll go for a 5" backing plate to match my 5" counterweight.

Also, they say I can use a 5" backing plate with a 6" pad. Are there any negatives for not matching the backing plate size to the pad size? Thanks!

[bimmernotbeamer]

Originally Posted by aphall

DavidN, I've been reading up on this backing plate business. A lot of places say to use the same backing plate as the size counterweight as this will not only decrease vibrations, but also increase the life of your PC. Supposedly the excess vibrations will wear on the ball bearings in your PC according to a PC representative. I just bought a 7424 PC, and it comes with a 5" counterweight, and a 6" backing plate. Doesn't that just seem odd that what they say, and what they sell is contradictory?

Anyway, so I've also read not to use the backing plate that comes with your PC. A few places recommend getting a Lake Country backing plate. First, is this true? If so, then I guess I'll go for a 5" backing plate to match my 5" counterweight.

Also, they say I can use a 5" backing plate with a 6" pad. Are there any negatives for not matching the backing plate size to the pad size? Thanks!

Hey man. To answer your questions:

Q: Supposedly the excess vibrations will wear on the ball bearings in your PC according to a PC representative.
A: This is very possible, especially if you use your PC quite often. For detailing one or two cars a year you should be ok with a 5" CW and 6" BP.

Q: Doesn't that just seem odd that what they say, and what they sell is contradictory?
A: Not necessarily. The contraption that comes with the PC may be 6" in diameter, but its not as heavy as a urethane backing plate. It's the weight that also dictates whether a 5" or 6" CW should be used. Though as a guide they strictly go by plate diameter.

Q: A few places recommend getting a Lake Country backing plate. First, is this true?
A: Lake country makes quality prodcuts for the PC and rotary. I would definitley get Lake country pads and backing plates.

Q: Also, they say I can use a 5" backing plate with a 6" pad. Are there any negatives for not matching the backing plate size to the pad size?
A: No. The pads are so light that they can be used with a 5" or 6" BP.

Hope this helps.

[aphall]

Thanks D, that was helpful. Oh, and by the way, why use the flat pads from Lake Country, as opposed to the VC pads? As a beginner, don't I want that "pocket" in the middle of the pad to prevent splatter?

Now, I'm onto figuring out what polishes to use. I have two cars, a '93 Honda Civic that hasn't been waxed more than twice in its life, and my BMW.

I want to first practice and restore the paint on my Civic. From the looks of the paint, it's going to need something as strong as a compound. What compound would you recommend for extreme oxidation?

I guess, the short question is... what polishes/compound products would you recommend to restore my Civic, and also keep my Jet Black BMW swirl / cat paw scratches free?

Thanks again!!

[bimmernotbeamer]

Originally Posted by aphall

Thanks D, that was helpful. Oh, and by the way, why use the flat pads from Lake Country, as opposed to the VC pads? As a beginner, don't I want that "pocket" in the middle of the pad to prevent splatter?

Now, I'm onto figuring out what polishes to use. I have two cars, a '93 Honda Civic that hasn't been waxed more than twice in its life, and my BMW.

I want to first practice and restore the paint on my Civic. From the looks of the paint, it's going to need something as strong as a compound. What compound would you recommend for extreme oxidation?

I guess, the short question is... what polishes/compound products would you recommend to restore my Civic, and also keep my Jet Black BMW swirl / cat paw scratches free?

Thanks again!!

VC pads are good for a rotary where splatter is much more prevelant than on a PC. With a PC, as long as you spread the polish around on the panel prior to turning it on then you should be able to totally avoid spaltter regardless of what type of pad you are using.

Also, because the PC is not anywhere near as powerful as a rotary, you want to get as much pad to paint contact as possible to maximize the machines swirl removal abilities, hence why flat pads are the way to go.

In terms of your civic, first try Menzerna IP on a yellow cutting pad (I linked to the pad in a post above). Multiple passes may be necessary but it should do the job. If you are still having trouble then step up to something like Menzerna Power Gloss or 3M Fine Cut rubbing compound. Then you can clean up any hazing left via Zaino ZPC and a white polishing pad.

With regards to your Bimmer, a once a year clay and polish with ZPC on a white polishing pad in conjunction with semi regular washing and twice a year Z2'ing should keep the paint looking great for as long as you own the car.

Hope this helps.

[aphall]

David, thanks for the help again. Your response brings up another question. I use Klasse as my final polish/sealant. Using ZPC, will there be any chemical conflicts?

So, then the order of application would be:

Wash, clay, ZPC, AIO, then SG once a year, and then an AIO and SG application again about six months later?

Thanks! You rock. :rocks:

[bimmernotbeamer]

Originally Posted by aphall

David, thanks for the help again. Your response brings up another question. I use Klasse as my final polish/sealant. Using ZPC, will there be any chemical conflicts?

So, then the order of application would be:

Wash, clay, ZPC, AIO, then SG once a year, and then an AIO and SG application again about six months later?

Thanks! You rock. :rocks:

ZPC does not leave anything behind on the paint, so it will not conflict with klasse. Also of note, AIO is a chemical cleaner and will clean anything that a previous polish leaves behind, so you have no worries either way. One more note, if you don't really have any swirls, then you can skip ZPC and just do a wash, clay, AIO and then SG. AIO is primarily a chemical cleaner but does have some very very (and I mean very) mild abrasives that should suit a swirl free vehicle just fine. Just a thought for you

In terms of your steps and frequency, everyting looks good!