BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

Post Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
      12-03-2013, 06:15 PM   #23
flinchy
Brigadier General
124
Rep
3,099
Posts

Drives: E82 135i
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: QLD, Australia

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kkuba View Post
Wow. First of all, thank you for all that information!

Let me address some points.

Keep in mind, the donor vehicle will be complete
ok cool, so you can grab literally EVERYTHING. much easier.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Kkuba View Post
What's the going rate for a 6AT at the moment, is there even any demand? If you don't mind me asking, how much did the 6MT set you back? Used? Shipping would have been a killer...
6AT's make for easier 1/4 mile times as long as you're not shooting for major power (too weak past 500ft-lb or so).. and yes they break, it would sell... eventually at least for sure, locally especially with people used to paying lots for BMW parts haha

I got my 6MT shipped from the uk for roughly $1200AUD air freight and all. could possibly get cheaper if you were willing to wait, i think there's a couple 6MT and 6AT on ebay right now to check pricing... i'd say $800 pretty easily without having it wait around? ymmv, don't quote me on that lol.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Kkuba View Post
"absolutely" to "easy enough?" or "missing parts...causing a cost blowout" ? Or both...?

I'm guessing cost blowout because of drive-shaft, diff and half-shafts, hubs? unique to N54 6MT? Or unique to just 6MT?
absolutely to yes it should work. anything your'e worried about parts not working, check realoem for parts numbers, see what models they came on.

half shafts for non-m's are shared, drive shaft modification is cheap.. diff from the donor car?.. apart from fitting the 135i brakes, the hubs are the same/will fit up to the diff etc. (more on brakes below)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kkuba View Post
CAS and dash cluster, does that mean the dash has to come out? Is there a lot of interior work?
no, just the cluster (gauge pod tacho/speedo bit), it unscrews from under the dash cluster hood bit, has a few plugs on the back. no worry there.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kkuba View Post
So it does need to be shortened/modified? My research tells me that all E8x have the same wheelbase. Does that not mean overall length from motor to diff should be the same?
yes, and check realoem, you'll find comparing say.. a 130i to a 128i, which are both N52's, have different length driveshafts for whatever reason.. i know the 128i has a different transmission, so that's where my guess goes, just different length of parts.

i just checked for you

118i manual: L=1531MM auto: L=1407MM

135i manual: L=1353MM auto: L=1373MM

longer trans/engine is my guess. engine for sure though hah
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kkuba View Post
Have not heard great things about iDrive, so will avoid.
much easier. kinda cool, but easier.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Kkuba View Post
When you say models, you mean the different motor/box combinations? Eg 4cyl has short block/box and long shaft, and 6cyl has opposite? This goes back to my response to (6) above.
yes, as above, different motor/box combos have widely varying driveshaft lengths. i can't be 100% sure as to WHERE the lengths have to differ, just that they do lol



Quote:
Originally Posted by Kkuba View Post
Have heard bad things about active steering when it comes to a 'driver's car' so will avoid if I can. The rack on the donor car is mashed anyway, so that won't be carried over. Just thinking here: if it does have active steering, is that still hydro assisted? Or is that then electric? Because then I would have to figure out how to provide hydro pressure to the regular rack in the project vehicle.
i can't give you a 100% answer (resident mechanics would maybe?).. but i'm pretty sure hydro assisted? as far as i'm aware, all N54 135i's came with hydraulic steering, N54 engine you take out should come with a power steering pump.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kkuba View Post
Engine has just over 30,000km on the clock, so I would hope that all of the above, injectors, fuel pump, trans/engine mounts, could be carried over without too much worry.
30kkm isn't mcuh no, would be unlocky if had troubles. i 100% suggest getting the valves cleaned while it's out though, much easier/cheaper just to take off the intake manifold+new gasket for that, and scrub off the carbon buildup while you can... would definitely still check the water pump. at the front middle bottom of the engine. easy to bump in a bad crash/transit or something

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kkuba View Post
Is that the cost to get them engineered? Or does that include purchase price?
that's purchase price.. rears need the 135i hubs as they're 10mm thicker - the calipers (possibly with rotors/pads oem) sell often for about the $1k mark. hubs are $90 or so each (still ok on donor vehicle by any chance?), and pads/rotors if needed

engineering isn't expensive for factory>factory stuff. and to put in the N54, you need brakes from an N54 equipped car to get it certified.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kkuba View Post
Because donor vehicle is complete, with 135i brakes ready for the taking. Should be an easy swap I would think.
yep, i'm about to swap in the 135i brakes, have all the parts, hubs, bearings etc. but i'm half tempted to go to M3 brakes instead. probably shouldn't for sake of ease and minimising delays hahaha

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kkuba View Post
I will not be taking the motor apart.
I have not yet seen the car in the flesh, however, photos show what looks to be like minor modifications. Pod filters, and a white 'canister' where there is not mean to be anything... someone suggested it might be meth injection?
But either way, I will be happy with the standard motor. The car should be a lot quicker than my current car at the moment, so that's all I need.
good, much cheaper - i don't know on the meth injection.. pics?. standard motor and turbos should get you close to 400whp without worry, which sounds like plenty


Quote:
Originally Posted by Kkuba View Post
Yes, I am not doing it to save money. I think the end result will be cool and unique. I also like the hatch, and am sick of having a 2 door. Although I do have to admit that the E82 is growing on me the more I look at it... =\

And I am happy to spend $5k on top of purchase price, and more if it includes a 6MT conversion

Some more questions:

13. How easy is it to pull the motor/box? Someone suggested I should look into borrowing a hoist and dropping the subframe, reversing what happens at the factory. Would you recommend this? It would be difficult to organise, but not impossible. I also know that some new cars, you find that you can almost unbolt the front end and pull the engine out forwards (or something to that effect). Is this one of those cars?

I forget what else... will edit this post if I remember soon enough. But, I guess if you could elaborate on my question above, and give me an idea of how much extra it would cost to include a manual conversion.

Cheers!
the E82 really does grow on you, and clean 135i's are around the $40k mark now.

13. yes, smart idea to have the tools just in case, when they're not super expensive.. hoist with a bar, jack to get the trans/subframe/whatever up as needed.. i got myself a crane for $150 lightly used.. and if i wanted, could sell it for $150 today, so no biggie.

yes, you can unbolt the front crossmember and have the front wide open. easier.

so yes could get a 6MT for $1000 shipped say (unknown condition, easy enough to get opened and eyeballed), $1000 for a GOOD clutch+flywheel... sell 6AT for a good percentage of the cost of the 6MT itself?

Last edited by flinchy; 12-03-2013 at 06:21 PM..
Appreciate 0
      12-03-2013, 08:28 PM   #24
135i2
Lieutenant
106
Rep
419
Posts

Drives:
Join Date: Oct 2008

iTrader: (0)

It takes all types....ya dreamin'
__________________

135i - RHD Bottom Mount Single Turbo - GTX3584RS
Appreciate 0
      12-03-2013, 09:14 PM   #25
racer_x
Second Lieutenant
racer_x's Avatar
13
Rep
226
Posts

Drives: When He Has To
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Sydney

iTrader: (0)

I love your optimism but I have to ask.

Who will want to buy this Chimera off you when you decide to sell? Assuming it ever makes it out of the garage. Fiddling with BMW ECUs is not for the faint of heart (or wallet).

My 2.3c (inflation adjusted) - You would be better off starting with a 135i, chopping the boot and grafting 2 back doors.
Appreciate 0
      12-04-2013, 12:41 AM   #26
510135
Captain
Australia
59
Rep
791
Posts

Drives: f32
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Earth

iTrader: (0)

Flinchy have you created Kkuba to talk to yourself, making yourself feel better about your build? Surely there isn't two of your kind in Australia.
Appreciate 0
      12-04-2013, 01:55 AM   #27
Zuzu
Major General
Zuzu's Avatar
Australia
2814
Rep
7,637
Posts

Drives: M2C HS 6MT
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Sydney Australia

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by 510135 View Post
Flinchy have you created Kkuba to talk to yourself, making yourself feel better about your build? Surely there isn't two of your kind in Australia.
Appreciate 0
      12-04-2013, 02:20 AM   #28
flinchy
Brigadier General
124
Rep
3,099
Posts

Drives: E82 135i
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: QLD, Australia

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by 510135 View Post
Flinchy have you created Kkuba to talk to yourself, making yourself feel better about your build? Surely there isn't two of your kind in Australia.
shit, they're on to me
Appreciate 0
      12-04-2013, 04:17 AM   #29
BMW86
Major General
Australia
395
Rep
9,156
Posts

Drives: RS3 Sedan / Macan S
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Australia

iTrader: (0)

The people that do engine swaps in modern BMW's don't do it to save a few bucks, in fact it's quite the opposite. They do it because they can. There are a lot of people doing conversions, but not many out there have been completed.
Appreciate 0
      12-04-2013, 06:10 AM   #30
david.orr
Lieutenant Colonel
Australia
123
Rep
1,852
Posts

Drives: Cars
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Australia

iTrader: (0)

c'mon fellas, the guy has a dream car in mind and also the coin, so who are we to say it's crazy, stupid or foolish to do so. Group think isn't always right. Even if we are correct and he's nuts, it's still his dream car for now. I say go for it if you can!!
Appreciate 0
      12-04-2013, 06:23 AM   #31
flinchy
Brigadier General
124
Rep
3,099
Posts

Drives: E82 135i
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: QLD, Australia

iTrader: (0)

'snot fair.. no one told ME it was a terrible idea, i was sold it as 'awesome' hahahahah
Appreciate 0
      12-04-2013, 06:26 AM   #32
Kirst
First Lieutenant
Australia
20
Rep
319
Posts

Drives: BSM e82 135i
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Sunshine Coast - BMW Club QLD Member

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by flinchy
'snot fair.. no one told ME it was a terrible idea, i was sold it as 'awesome' hahahahah
I distinctly remember saying
WHYYYYY
Appreciate 0
      12-05-2013, 06:14 AM   #33
Kkuba
Private First Class
24
Rep
101
Posts

Drives: N54 135i
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: VIC, Australia

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by flinchy View Post
ok cool, so you can grab literally EVERYTHING. much easier.



6AT's make for easier 1/4 mile times as long as you're not shooting for major power (too weak past 500ft-lb or so).. and yes they break, it would sell... eventually at least for sure, locally especially with people used to paying lots for BMW parts haha

I got my 6MT shipped from the uk for roughly $1200AUD air freight and all. could possibly get cheaper if you were willing to wait, i think there's a couple 6MT and 6AT on ebay right now to check pricing... i'd say $800 pretty easily without having it wait around? ymmv, don't quote me on that lol.





absolutely to yes it should work. anything your'e worried about parts not working, check realoem for parts numbers, see what models they came on.

half shafts for non-m's are shared, drive shaft modification is cheap.. diff from the donor car?.. apart from fitting the 135i brakes, the hubs are the same/will fit up to the diff etc. (more on brakes below)


no, just the cluster (gauge pod tacho/speedo bit), it unscrews from under the dash cluster hood bit, has a few plugs on the back. no worry there.



yes, and check realoem, you'll find comparing say.. a 130i to a 128i, which are both N52's, have different length driveshafts for whatever reason.. i know the 128i has a different transmission, so that's where my guess goes, just different length of parts.

i just checked for you

118i manual: L=1531MM auto: L=1407MM

135i manual: L=1353MM auto: L=1373MM

longer trans/engine is my guess. engine for sure though hah


much easier. kinda cool, but easier.




yes, as above, different motor/box combos have widely varying driveshaft lengths. i can't be 100% sure as to WHERE the lengths have to differ, just that they do lol





i can't give you a 100% answer (resident mechanics would maybe?).. but i'm pretty sure hydro assisted? as far as i'm aware, all N54 135i's came with hydraulic steering, N54 engine you take out should come with a power steering pump.



30kkm isn't mcuh no, would be unlocky if had troubles. i 100% suggest getting the valves cleaned while it's out though, much easier/cheaper just to take off the intake manifold+new gasket for that, and scrub off the carbon buildup while you can... would definitely still check the water pump. at the front middle bottom of the engine. easy to bump in a bad crash/transit or something


that's purchase price.. rears need the 135i hubs as they're 10mm thicker - the calipers (possibly with rotors/pads oem) sell often for about the $1k mark. hubs are $90 or so each (still ok on donor vehicle by any chance?), and pads/rotors if needed

engineering isn't expensive for factory>factory stuff. and to put in the N54, you need brakes from an N54 equipped car to get it certified.


yep, i'm about to swap in the 135i brakes, have all the parts, hubs, bearings etc. but i'm half tempted to go to M3 brakes instead. probably shouldn't for sake of ease and minimising delays hahaha


good, much cheaper - i don't know on the meth injection.. pics?. standard motor and turbos should get you close to 400whp without worry, which sounds like plenty




the E82 really does grow on you, and clean 135i's are around the $40k mark now.

13. yes, smart idea to have the tools just in case, when they're not super expensive.. hoist with a bar, jack to get the trans/subframe/whatever up as needed.. i got myself a crane for $150 lightly used.. and if i wanted, could sell it for $150 today, so no biggie.

yes, you can unbolt the front crossmember and have the front wide open. easier.

so yes could get a 6MT for $1000 shipped say (unknown condition, easy enough to get opened and eyeballed), $1000 for a GOOD clutch+flywheel... sell 6AT for a good percentage of the cost of the 6MT itself?
Again, thank you very much.

You have made my decision much easier.

Just when you say:

"yes, you can unbolt the front crossmember and have the front wide open. easier."

I'm not sure I follow. To me a cross member is what the motor rests on, and if you unbolted that, the motor would drop or sag, and there would be no influence on the front end of the vehicle.

On another note, I don't understand what is the cause of the negativity from most others. The way I see it, it could be several reasons.

- Is it that because so many projects end up unfinished due to lack of time/money?

- Is it that because so many projects end up unfinished due to lack of motivation?

- Or is it because so many BMW projects in particular end up unfinished? Because they are more complex than most other cars, or for whatever other reason that is unique to BMW/Euro cars?

What I am basically asking is if I am being warned against taking on a BMW project, or just "don't start a project car" in general?

I suppose people's responses will vary.

PS. That realoem.com is awesome.
Appreciate 0
      12-05-2013, 03:20 PM   #34
flinchy
Brigadier General
124
Rep
3,099
Posts

Drives: E82 135i
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: QLD, Australia

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kkuba View Post
Again, thank you very much.

You have made my decision much easier.

Just when you say:

"yes, you can unbolt the front crossmember and have the front wide open. easier."

I'm not sure I follow. To me a cross member is what the motor rests on, and if you unbolted that, the motor would drop or sag, and there would be no influence on the front end of the vehicle.

On another note, I don't understand what is the cause of the negativity from most others. The way I see it, it could be several reasons.

- Is it that because so many projects end up unfinished due to lack of time/money?

- Is it that because so many projects end up unfinished due to lack of motivation?

- Or is it because so many BMW projects in particular end up unfinished? Because they are more complex than most other cars, or for whatever other reason that is unique to BMW/Euro cars?

What I am basically asking is if I am being warned against taking on a BMW project, or just "don't start a project car" in general?

I suppose people's responses will vary.

PS. That realoem.com is awesome.
sorry, i meant front carrier/beam thing, got confused with names

http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...02&hg=51&fg=15

- yes

- yes

- swapping a motor of the same 'generation' (E8x motor into E8x.. or even say an S65, which requires a few more parts at least) isn't a huge project... getting an N54 into .. well, anything older, is a bit different. - I can't speak for them specifically in this thread, but as a global thing, MANY people get part way through projects and life/money/motivation issues happen.

I'd say my lack of major progress for so long isn't helping either lol

A couple of big differences between N54/E8x and say, S54 or an older BMW motor... everything's even more heavily tied together electronic wise, and there's still no real affordable aftermarket engine management solution, given the direct injection and other complexities inside.. compared to an older motor where if you want you can run just about anything decent.. drop an S54 into an E30? sweet!.. N54 into E30? unless you can/want to spend megabucks on a Motec, you have to carry over a lot more electronics for the stock immobilisation.

N54 into E87.. well there's already two that i know of over in europe - the only thing stopping you is motivation and the money to do so.

Heck, people put chain driven bike engines in cars all the time, JZ's, RB's, rotors, and large V8's into cars that have no business having them, are much larger projects requiring custom engine mounts, custom brake setups often, and hand wired ECM.

Last edited by flinchy; 12-05-2013 at 03:27 PM..
Appreciate 0
      12-06-2013, 11:28 AM   #35
RimasRS
Colonel
RimasRS's Avatar
85
Rep
2,438
Posts

Drives: BMW X3 SD
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Europe

iTrader: (0)

Just remembered Flinchy and here he is
Appreciate 0
      12-07-2013, 01:11 AM   #36
Aussie M3ti
Racer
Australia
0
Rep
33
Posts

Drives: White 130i
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sydney Australia

iTrader: (0)

Flinchy, kkuba,

Don't pay any attention to the nay sayers. For most of them a big thing is taking their car to a workshop and getting some bolt on parts done. Woohoo yawn.

I have done a number of late model BMW swaps and race car builds including two 130i race cars. Doing a swap project is very fulfilling when you are driving the swapped car.

The difficult things with late model BMW swaps is the electrics. Especially with the newer E8X and E9X cars.

My advice is decide if you want a auto or a manual. If you want or would be happy with an auto go an find the nicest 118i auto you can find and then move all the electrics and mechanical components over from your 135i donor. You may need to move the whole wiring loom over. There would be enough wiring and electrical component differences that you would be having to do lots of special wiring or splices to get some of tag components working together if you don't use the whole loom.

If you want a manual look for a manual donor car. They come up at the auctions reasonably often and they are cheap for a stat write off.

I have thought about doing a E90 M3 into an E87.

Regarding Auto versus Manual I had an Auto 130i as my road car for 4 years and it was great fun. Drove it like a manual using the paddle shifts all the time. They are not like the traditional auto. They are also quick off the line and great at the traffic light drags as they auto change up so you don't make mistakes in the gear shifts. Worth considering.

You need to get hold of a WDS (BMW wiring manual) and research the electrical components in conjunction with realoem.

Good luck with the swap.

Cheers

Brian
Appreciate 0
      12-09-2013, 08:31 PM   #37
Kkuba
Private First Class
24
Rep
101
Posts

Drives: N54 135i
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: VIC, Australia

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aussie M3ti View Post
Flinchy, kkuba,

Don't pay any attention to the nay sayers. For most of them a big thing is taking their car to a workshop and getting some bolt on parts done. Woohoo yawn.

I have done a number of late model BMW swaps and race car builds including two 130i race cars. Doing a swap project is very fulfilling when you are driving the swapped car.

The difficult things with late model BMW swaps is the electrics. Especially with the newer E8X and E9X cars.

My advice is decide if you want a auto or a manual. If you want or would be happy with an auto go an find the nicest 118i auto you can find and then move all the electrics and mechanical components over from your 135i donor. You may need to move the whole wiring loom over. There would be enough wiring and electrical component differences that you would be having to do lots of special wiring or splices to get some of tag components working together if you don't use the whole loom.

If you want a manual look for a manual donor car. They come up at the auctions reasonably often and they are cheap for a stat write off.

I have thought about doing a E90 M3 into an E87.

Regarding Auto versus Manual I had an Auto 130i as my road car for 4 years and it was great fun. Drove it like a manual using the paddle shifts all the time. They are not like the traditional auto. They are also quick off the line and great at the traffic light drags as they auto change up so you don't make mistakes in the gear shifts. Worth considering.

You need to get hold of a WDS (BMW wiring manual) and research the electrical components in conjunction with realoem.

Good luck with the swap.

Cheers

Brian
Hi Brian,

Thanks for your input.

The plan would be to take the whole loom over. To avoid splicing.

However, you seem to be suggesting that there would still be a requirement for splicing? I don't understand why.

Coming from the auto industry, I expected to hear that everything is plug and play for different motors, to reduce complexity (as it is with all the cars I am currently working on). Basically, if you go back far enough along the wiring loom, you will find a connector that can be unplugged, and will be common back from there, between whatever two cars you are trying to combine (within the same model range of course). How far you have to go back depends on how much difference there is in the cars you are trying to combine.

And initial responses seem to have confirmed this, but you seem to have a different view. Could you please elaborate?

Given your experience, what were some examples of electrical issues which you ran into in your swaps of E8x/9x cars??

I have seen a few 135i wrecks come and go, but they have all been auto. And if I look on carsales it seems a large proportion of 135i cars are auto. It makes me think it will be hard to find a complete MT wreck.

I am now pretty set on an MT car, it seems fairly easy to do the transmission conversion while doing the engine conversion. Provided I have all the changeover parts. Would you disagree?

The main reason I don't want an AT is because I don't like the lack of clutch pedal. I find a clutch pedal makes the drive so much more interesting. Also, I get the perception that it makes the car more predictable, and the drive more involving. But hey, that's just me.

What are "tag components" ?

Cheers!
Appreciate 0
      12-11-2013, 05:31 PM   #38
Aussie M3ti
Racer
Australia
0
Rep
33
Posts

Drives: White 130i
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sydney Australia

iTrader: (0)

Hi Kuba,

Sorry I hadn't checked the thread in the last few days.

Even when you take the loom across (highly recommended) there may be still some components that have to stay in the original chassis. An example for an E87 is that the LCI tail lights have a different plug to the earlier version. Therefore you need to either change the light (easy if from E87 to E87) or splice in the new connector.

Some examples from your conversion is rear doors and windows, hatch and rear lights. You may need to splice in wiring for these. Also you may want to remove the convertible top wiring.

You may also need to do some coding for the rear doors etc as well as the convertible.

None of these issues should be a problem, you just need to go in with eyes open.

Cheers

Brian
Appreciate 0
      12-11-2013, 05:36 PM   #39
Aussie M3ti
Racer
Australia
0
Rep
33
Posts

Drives: White 130i
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sydney Australia

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kkuba View Post
Hi Brian,


What are "tag components" ?
tag = the hehehe

However it raises a good point. When you remove the harness put a little tag on each of the wires so you know where they come from. I just use masking tape and permanent marker to create a tag label.

Cheers

Brian
Appreciate 0
      12-11-2013, 11:01 PM   #40
Kkuba
Private First Class
24
Rep
101
Posts

Drives: N54 135i
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: VIC, Australia

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aussie M3ti View Post
Hi Kuba,

Sorry I hadn't checked the thread in the last few days.

Even when you take the loom across (highly recommended) there may be still some components that have to stay in the original chassis. An example for an E87 is that the LCI tail lights have a different plug to the earlier version. Therefore you need to either change the light (easy if from E87 to E87) or splice in the new connector.

Some examples from your conversion is rear doors and windows, hatch and rear lights. You may need to splice in wiring for these. Also you may want to remove the convertible top wiring.

You may also need to do some coding for the rear doors etc as well as the convertible.

None of these issues should be a problem, you just need to go in with eyes open.

Cheers

Brian
Hey,

Appreciate your response very much.

I do have some questions though.

Sorry, I should clarify some ambiguity in my post. I meant the whole *engine* loom, as it is my understanding that the engine loom simply unplugs from the body loom, with a common connector to all the other engine looms.

Simplified: Pull out engine, pull out engine harness, plug and install new engine harness, install new engine. Install new ECU, re-code for non-iDrive, 5 doors, non-'vert, ready to go?

Is this not how it works?

Only thing with above is I'm not sure what are the responsibilities of BCM and ECU and if there is any cross over. ie. if they are completely separate, then maybe no/minimal re-coding required.

But coding i suppose is the least of my worries.

Thanks again for your help.
Appreciate 0
      12-12-2013, 12:06 AM   #41
flinchy
Brigadier General
124
Rep
3,099
Posts

Drives: E82 135i
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: QLD, Australia

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aussie M3ti View Post
Hi Kuba,

Sorry I hadn't checked the thread in the last few days.

Even when you take the loom across (highly recommended) there may be still some components that have to stay in the original chassis. An example for an E87 is that the LCI tail lights have a different plug to the earlier version. Therefore you need to either change the light (easy if from E87 to E87) or splice in the new connector.

Some examples from your conversion is rear doors and windows, hatch and rear lights. You may need to splice in wiring for these. Also you may want to remove the convertible top wiring.

You may also need to do some coding for the rear doors etc as well as the convertible.

None of these issues should be a problem, you just need to go in with eyes open.

Cheers

Brian
E87 LCI is a simple change, and i believe one of the only non 100% plug and play modules, due to the addition of the LED strips.

basically every module is identical between years and chassis, even to E9x

things like the doors/convertible top are on the JBE>chassis modules side of the electrics, in the FRM i believe (http://bmw.workshop-manuals.com/1_Se...ex.php?id=3856), rather than the JBE>DME side

so the key/buttons send the unlock code outside of the DME, and only require the DME>CAS interaction to be successful in de-immobilising the car.

so it's a waste of time swapping in the body loom, as all you'll really achieve is making things unhappy.. all you need is the engine loom to plug into the DME, then the DME plugs into the chassis side connector (large grey lead i think?)
Appreciate 0
      12-12-2013, 01:45 AM   #42
Aussie M3ti
Racer
Australia
0
Rep
33
Posts

Drives: White 130i
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sydney Australia

iTrader: (0)

Ok but I in some of the swaps I have done there have been differences between the modules ie Instrument Panels, mirrors etc between models. All I am saying is do your research using WDS to ensure the various modules use the same plugs and wiring.

Also if you are just changing the engine loom (which should just plug in) will there then be VIN differences between ECU, EWS, Speedo etc which means it will not work. What about the other modules?

Cheers

Brian
Appreciate 0
      12-12-2013, 02:41 AM   #43
flinchy
Brigadier General
124
Rep
3,099
Posts

Drives: E82 135i
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: QLD, Australia

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aussie M3ti View Post
Also if you are just changing the engine loom (which should just plug in) will there then be VIN differences between ECU, EWS, Speedo etc which means it will not work. What about the other modules?

Cheers

Brian
instrument cluster stores VIN and current mileage, and should be swapped over.. if mileage mismatch, as far as i remember there's certain circumstances it'll show a tamper light, others it'll rewrite the mileage (could vary per model year etc.. though i think the dash can be almost, or 100% coded as desired, VIN overwritten etc..)

if swap dash with DME and CAS, then no issues, it all matches.

CAS stores the immobilisation code for the ECU and is needed for it to be started

I can't remember any others that store VIN or anything, just need calibration/synch., part numbers for things like ABS sensors are identical.
Appreciate 0
      12-13-2013, 09:09 PM   #44
MrBlonde
Colonel
MrBlonde's Avatar
Australia
122
Rep
2,695
Posts

Drives: Audi TTRS, M Coupe, 1299
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Merewether

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by flinchy View Post
'snot fair.. no one told ME it was a terrible idea, i was sold it as 'awesome' hahahahah
No.
__________________
.-=[ Kenny ]=-. 1999 BMW M Coupe 10.775 @ 134.35 mph w/1.600 60' (Best 136.07 mph) 25th August 2004. +2010 X5 35D+

Check out the 1Addicts Drag Racing Standings and Drag Racing 101.
Appreciate 0
Post Reply

Bookmarks

Tags
n54 e87 conversion

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:49 AM.




1addicts
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
1Addicts.com, BIMMERPOST.com, E90Post.com, F30Post.com, M3Post.com, ZPost.com, 5Post.com, 6Post.com, 7Post.com, XBimmers.com logo and trademark are properties of BIMMERPOST