BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

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      08-08-2015, 01:49 PM   #45
champignon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaicoJr View Post
Well, it looks like they want $7500 more for the 135is and in some cases 10k more. One year difference and 10k extra miles should not make the difference. It is definitely not worth paying that much extra when i have been told i can get more horsepower, same sound by adding the new muffler and same wheels for less.
I have looked at a number of online ads for 135is vehicles. All of them were grossly overpriced for what you would get. People like to talk about the limited number of these cars that were produced and describe them as a "future classic." Since all of the additions to the 135is could be put onto a 135i after the fact, it strains belief that there is any value there beyond the cost of putting those same options on later, and that is assuming that you really wanted all of those options and would be willing to pay individually for them and not just for some of them.

The only 135is that I saw that was not "overpriced" was for sale somewhere in the SE and had a whole bunch of aftermarket mods on it, that the seller (a 2nd hand dealer) could not vouch for as regards function or even whether they were properly installed in the first place. The most the dealer would say and guarantee was that the car was running . . . . now. Even though there was warranty remaining on the car, it appeared that the warranty had been voided as evidenced by the fact that the car had never gone back to the BMW dealer and was having its oil changes done at a quick lube shop.

I would make the best deal I could make on a 135i, equipped the way you want it, then consider upgrading parts of it as you see fit based upon your own experience with driving it in the stock condition.
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      08-08-2015, 07:39 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Rooty Von Tooty
The question should be how much more is an extra 20HP, wheels with a slightly different look, and a different sounding exhaust worth?

Having driven both cars when nearly new, I'd say not much.
You can get the PPK for less than 3K and get that extra power anyway right? And use the difference to do mods you actually want or are more useful (suspension) right?
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      08-09-2015, 12:43 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShocknAwe View Post
If you are pretty sure you won't be doing any modding, just cut to the chase and get the 135is.

If you are going to mod the car, get the 135i and go nuts.

On the out of warranty issues:
Been out of warranty for a year and a half so far, no problems. Car has been more reliable through ownership than my old Honda. All that "never own a BMW out of warranty" thing is dealership bullshit, at least as it pertains to the E82 anyway.

+1, if you're not the mod type go IS

If you plan to customize it, get a 2011 N55 and chip it and go nuts
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      08-11-2015, 08:09 PM   #48
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Since every opinion here is bias here goes mine. I choose the i over the is because I didn't like the 313 wheels, the badge in the inside and I wanted wood trim. I added the PE and the PPK for 1050 installed. So besides the water cooler which you don't need and the wheels your car will perform just as well as the is and you will save money! The PE is worth every penny sex to your ears as my wife would tell you. Also living in VT I would argue that it is better to have a 6mt then an AT. Just my opinion!!!!
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Last edited by angler; 08-11-2015 at 08:26 PM..
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      08-11-2015, 08:40 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaicoJr
I can get a 2012 135i msport, 6 spd, premium, navi, leather, heated seats for about $29k but 4 months of waranty left or 2013 135is for maybe $34k, 15k miles w/navi, DCT, red Boston leather, heated seats.
In Chicago there's a few more on autotrader including a private seller with a 2010 6mt m-sport that's about $21k. That leaves a lot of room to self-insure for maintenance. You could blow the engine and come out ahead of the 2012s.

Best of luck finding your 1. Hope to see you around.
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      08-21-2015, 03:52 PM   #50
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At the end of the day, i am down to a 2012 135ifully loaded w/ 6 spd 25k mile for $27k warranty until jan or 2013 135 is for $35 k certied 13k miles dct fully loaded. What to pick
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      08-21-2015, 04:13 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaicoJr View Post
At the end of the day, i am down to a 2012 135ifully loaded w/ 6 spd 25k mile for $27k warranty until jan or 2013 135 is for $35 k certied 13k miles dct fully loaded. What to pick
You want the manual, get the manual. That seems to be the deciding factor. You can add the Performance parts (as been said before). The 135is doesn't have a manual. The 2012 135i DOES. Easy decision. Or keep looking for a 135is with a manual if you HAVE to have a 135is.
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      08-21-2015, 06:42 PM   #52
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I am leaning to the 2013 is since it is white with black interior.
The DCT trans was a lot more fun than i thought it would
Be. So, even though i wanted 6 sp, the dct did win me over.
Time to fly out and srive it back.
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      08-29-2015, 12:58 AM   #53
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Just got back home from purchasing 2013 135is white with black leather DCT fully loaded from New Jersey to Chicago. I will post picks once I get all the bug splash off the car😉
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      08-29-2015, 07:25 AM   #54
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Forgot to mention# 8 / 586
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      08-29-2015, 10:22 AM   #55
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I had the cheapest and cleanest 135is manual fully loaded on the market and hardly anyone contact me about it . 32K
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      08-29-2015, 12:13 PM   #56
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I did but my bank would only allow me to buy from Dealer.
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      08-29-2015, 12:21 PM   #57
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Here are the picks. Have not had a chance to wash her since it is raining in Chicago today.
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      08-29-2015, 12:27 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaicoJr View Post
Here are the picks. Have not had a chance to wash her since it is raining in Chicago today.
Congrats on a wonderful car. You're in for some fun. Drive her in good health.
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      08-29-2015, 12:29 PM   #59
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Thanks. Want to do some suspension work, probably wait until next spring. I was told to do lowers springs before sway bars. What do you guys think?
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      08-29-2015, 12:46 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaicoJr View Post
Thanks. Want to do some suspension work, probably wait until next spring. I was told to do lowers springs before sway bars. What do you guys think?
I have the BMW Performance suspension because I wanted to stay conservative and as OEM as possible. BMW advertises it lowers the car by 10mm and increases the spring rates by 34%.

A lot of people change the runflats out as well. A popular tire here are the Michelin Pilot Super Sports. You should get a lot of suggestions here as people have varied opinions on the subjects. Good luck with whatever you do.
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Last edited by Esteban; 08-29-2015 at 01:06 PM..
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      08-29-2015, 12:46 PM   #61
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FIRST: learn to do simple maintenance yourself, ie: oil changes, air & cabin filters. Then, learn to inspect brakes, followed by doing brakes and brake flush.
SECOND: take a proper driving school; the car is far more capable right now than you can likely handle.
THIRD: join BMWCCA

Otherwise spend money on good tires and brakes (pads & rotors; you donot need a BBK)
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      08-29-2015, 02:54 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaicoJr View Post
Thanks. Want to do some suspension work, probably wait until next spring. I was told to do lowers springs before sway bars. What do you guys think?
Quote:
Originally Posted by EvenEsteban View Post
I have the BMW Performance suspension because I wanted to stay conservative and as OEM as possible. BMW advertises it lowers the car by 10mm and increases the spring rates by 34%.
Wanted to add, since you mentioned sway bars, that the BMW Performance suspension comes with a new front sway bar. Again, very conservative and not for everybody.
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      08-29-2015, 03:31 PM   #63
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Niiiiiice. Hope you enjoy it. Will be at the Big Meat BMW get together tomorrow with my 'is'. At Busse Woods in Elk Grove Village.
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      08-30-2015, 02:47 PM   #64
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I wish i could of gone but i have a baseball game in the southside. Is there going to be another?
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      08-30-2015, 03:16 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NorthernDancer View Post
FIRST: learn to do simple maintenance yourself, ie: oil changes, air & cabin filters. Then, learn to inspect brakes, followed by doing brakes and brake flush.
SECOND: take a proper driving school; the car is far more capable right now than you can likely handle.
THIRD: join BMWCCA

Otherwise spend money on good tires and brakes (pads & rotors; you donot need a BBK)
I think joining BMW CCA should be 2nd on the list. They usually put on some great driving schools.
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      08-30-2015, 04:02 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Rooty Von Tooty
The question should be how much more is an extra 20HP, wheels with a slightly different look, and a different sounding exhaust worth?

Having driven both cars when nearly new, I'd say not much.
Shows you missed all the little details of the interior and ..... The extremely limited production. They made fewer 135is's than 1M's. The extra money for the "is" has everything to do with that.
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