Cobb AP Datalog, please review

[2kredz3]

Hello all,

I am trying to trace a problem (leaning toward a cracked manifold) on my 135i. At wide open throttle the car feels awesome but has random lag in spots across the RPM range (you can see it is pulling timing) Also it has a metallic ping at idle that goes away once over 1,000 rpms and also at idle has an audible misfire from the exhaust (please see these two videos)

Idle tick:

Idle misfire:

Datalog of 1st gear, 2nd gear, and first part of 3rd:

[135Pats]

Upload it to datazap you’ll get many more eyes on it. Datazap.me

[2kredz3]

Setting it up now :-)

Thanks

[2kredz3]

All right try this:

http://datazap.me/u/2kredz3/1st-3rd

[FactorX81]

my car ticks like the first video I thought that was normal 27k its been doing that for as long as I can remember

[2kredz3]

Mine did not start doing that until after the dealer replaced all 6 injectors because one failed. Some say it maybe the new injectors but the noise goes away if I drive the car hard. . .

[FactorX81]

I had some injectors replaced for the recall and 3 more later but I always remember it ticking. Mine ticks for a little while stops then ticks then stops just sitting there idling. Very interested in knowing whether this is an issue.

[135Pats]

If possible a 3rd gear log would be preferable, 1st and 2nd just don’t have enough load to really see what’s going on. Ideally a 3rd gear pull into 4th would be best.

With that said you are overshooting boost, the cars response is to slam the throttle plate closed to trim said overshoot. Would consider pulling out a bit of boost to see if that settles things. What specific problems are you having? I seriously doubt the intake mani is cracked, you’d throw 30FF very quickly and you’d have little to no pressure.

[2kredz3]

Originally Posted by 135Pats

If possible a 3rd gear log would be preferable, 1st and 2nd just don’t have enough load to really see what’s going on. Ideally a 3rd gear pull into 4th would be best.

With that said you are overshooting boost, the cars response is to slam the throttle plate closed to trim said overshoot. Would consider pulling out a bit of boost to see if that settles things. What specific problems are you having? I seriously doubt the intake mani is cracked, you’d throw 30FF very quickly and you’d have little to no pressure.

This is all I could do of a 3rd gear pull 100mph on a two lane road is asking for trouble:

http://datazap.me/u/2kredz3/bmw-135i...esive-3rd-gear

[2kredz3]

Originally Posted by 135Pats

If possible a 3rd gear log would be preferable, 1st and 2nd just don’t have enough load to really see what’s going on. Ideally a 3rd gear pull into 4th would be best.

With that said you are overshooting boost, the cars response is to slam the throttle plate closed to trim said overshoot. Would consider pulling out a bit of boost to see if that settles things. What specific problems are you having? I seriously doubt the intake mani is cracked, you’d throw 30FF very quickly and you’d have little to no pressure.

I did throw the 30ff code a long time ago, while on the track the one and only time I took it on track. I limped it home, the code cleared after 250mi and the car drove normally. I was thinking an exhaust manifold was cracked not the intake manifold. I posted the log to see if anyone saw anything wrong with it :-) the noise and misfire at idle are my main concern. Why would it be overshooting boost? Everything is stock except the tune. I do have an intake and charge pipe to install once I get this noise sorted out.

thanks

[135Pats]

That’s certainly much cleaner. Timing curve looks solid and the boost overshoots are much more manageable. Obviously don’t do a log if the circumstances are unsafe..

[2kredz3]

Also did you see the timing values for the individual cylinders? is it normal to pull timing from cyl 3,5,and 6 and not the rest?

Well on the 3rd gear pull it is only cyl #2 that is pulling timing.

[135Pats]

Well what are we looking at here, STG1 Aggressive? There are any number of reasons for an overshoot, in this case I’d guess it’s just the OTS map not being 100% suited to your car, wastegates, elevation, etc.

I would be absolutely shocked if you had a crack in the exhaust manifold. You’d need to build up a huge amount of heat very rapidly; I could see it on a really aggressively driven hybrid twin setup but not stock wheels. Certainly not at 14 pounds of boost. EGTs should be fine.

[2kredz3]

Originally Posted by 135Pats

Well what are we looking at here, STG1 Aggressive? There are any number of reasons for an overshoot, in this case I’d guess it’s just the OTS map not being 100% suited to your car, wastegates, elevation, etc.

I would be absolutely shocked if you had a crack in the exhaust manifold. You’d need to build up a huge amount of heat very rapidly; I could see it on a really aggressively driven hybrid twin setup but not stock wheels. Certainly not at 14 pounds of boost. EGTs should be fine.

Good to know, when the #3 injector failed it failed open and with in a 1/2 mi the car chugged more then a 1/4 of a tank. It had codes for rich on bank 1 also knock. My theory on this is when #3 started dumping fuel the computer leaned out bank one and that cyl 1 and 2 went very lean. Would that cause the type of EGT's you are talking about for cracking a manifold?

just trying to wrap my mind around the new noise and the stumble at idle.

[2kredz3]

Cobb AP Stage 1 LT Aggressive btw.

[135Pats]

Originally Posted by 2kredz3

Good to know, when the #3 injector failed it failed open and with in a 1/2 mi the car chugged more then a 1/4 of a tank. It had codes for rich on bank 1 also knock. My theory on this is when #3 started dumping fuel the computer leaned out bank one and that cyl 1 and 2 went very lean. Would that cause the type of EGT's you are talking about for cracking a manifold?

just trying to wrap my mind around the new noise and the stumble at idle.

If you really had an entire bank lean out for an extended period of time you’d throw numerous lean codes and knock codes. If it was bad enough you’d melt something. Again I doubt you cracked the exhaust manifold.

[2kredz3]

Originally Posted by 135Pats

If you really had an entire bank lean out for an extended period of time you’d throw numerous lean codes and knock codes. If it was bad enough you’d melt something. Again I doubt you cracked the exhaust manifold.

well that is good news!

What else coild cause the noose and misfire at idle?

[E82MSport]

For what it's worth, my car had a very very similar idle quality (seemingly random miss-fires) before I had the intake valves cleaned. I was especially noticeable on cold start warm-up. How many miles do you have on your car and have you had the intake valves cleaned?

The ticking sound in the first video sounds a lot like the normal EVAP purge (something emissions related) that plagues our vehicles. do a search on "ticking" and you will find there are several threads about this issue.

Always hard to diagnose via video clip so I might be way off, but that's my $.02..

BTW nice Crimson M Sport - looks just like mine!

[milocher]

My car exhibits an identical ticking and "misfire" on cold start. I took it to the dealer on three separate occasions as I couldn't wrap my head around it being normal. Anyway, in all cases BMW ran emissions tests among a plethora of others, gave me the all clear and a "that's just what N54's do". I wouldn't worry about it, especially considering your third gear pull.

[2kredz3]

Originally Posted by E82MSport

For what it's worth, my car had a very very similar idle quality (seemingly random miss-fires) before I had the intake valves cleaned. I was especially noticeable on cold start warm-up. How many miles do you have on your car and have you had the intake valves cleaned?

The ticking sound in the first video sounds a lot like the normal EVAP purge (something emissions related) that plagues our vehicles. do a search on "ticking" and you will find there are several threads about this issue.

Always hard to diagnose via video clip so I might be way off, but that's my $.02..

BTW nice Crimson M Sport - looks just like mine!

Thanks, car has 42k mi and valves were cleaned after the misfire issue came up as someone else said the same thing on another forum. Car goes to dealer for the last time on monday, if they cant figure it out then all the mods go back on and i will just drive it until something breaks.

Originally Posted by milocher

My car exhibits an identical ticking and "misfire" on cold start. I took it to the dealer on three separate occasions as I couldn't wrap my head around it being normal. Anyway, in all cases BMW ran emissions tests among a plethora of others, gave me the all clear and a "that's just what N54's do". I wouldn't worry about it, especially considering your third gear pull.

Yeah im sure that is what they are going to say come Monday. But regular warranty ends next month so i gotta try, after that its just the cpo 100k to pick up any additional issues :-/

Ill post more logs soon, will try to do a full 3rd gear pull tomorrow. Anyone concerned about it pulling timing on random cylinders?

[2kredz3]

Here is a log of all of 3rd gear:

http://datazap.me/u/2kredz3/full-3rd...0&data=1-19-20

And here is a log of the car on start up and idle

http://datazap.me/u/2kredz3/idling-misfire-log

[135Pats]

Originally Posted by 2kredz3

Here is a log of all of 3rd gear:

http://datazap.me/u/2kredz3/full-3rd...0&data=1-19-20

And here is a log of the car on start up and idle

http://datazap.me/u/2kredz3/idling-misfire-log

That’s fairly clean but you’re still having some overshoots, and as you can see the throttle plate closes to compensate. Maybe consider pulling out some duty cycle or load. AFRs, timing, etc look fine to me. Boost curve is better in this log as well, just not perfect.