eBay Rear Toe Arms?

[rod.bearings]

Debating if I need rear toe arms or not. Don't need the extra adjustment but would like the rear end more planted. Read that aftermarket toe arms are stronger than stock, which reduces flex and toe changes when accelerating. Would it reduce wheel hop also?

Current suspension mods - Diff lockdown, white line RSFB inserts, kwv1
These helped alot but wanted to see if rear toe arms would make it even better

Found some on ebay, for about $60 I guess it wont hurt to try them lol
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/ADJUSTABLE-RE...RVraSn&vxp=mtr

[Solo_M_Tech]

Get rid of the inserts and go with full M3 bushings or Solid. That's what you should do. if you don't need the extra adjustment range, don't waste your money.

[rod.bearings]

Originally Posted by ApexResistance

Get rid of the inserts and go with full M3 bushings or Solid. That's what you should do. if you don't need the extra adjustment range, don't waste your money.

Yea but it would be more money and labor for m3 bushings. Ive been reading some others already have m3 bushings and still have issues with rear stability torque steer. With rear toe arms they were able to correct this.

Just wondering if anyones tried these eBay ones and had similar results

[houtan]

Interested to know as well. I have read a lot on toe arms and it seems switching to a toe arm with a firmer bushing/bearing/ball joint increased rear stability. I have the white line replacement bushings and it improved the rear end a lot, but the rear end still shifts back and forth under wot.

Other options I have seen that have good feedback are the arms by manzo and megan racing. But the ones you posted are lower in cost by a large margin.

[Bimmer-Bob]

I'm not convinced that the M3 RSFB's are in fact any better than poly inserts. Yeah, they're "only" inserts, but I think they're a higher durometer rating than the full M3 bushings. There's a reason M3 owners themselves upgrade to poly bushings.

The question, of course, is what is the durometer rating of the stock bushings + inserts combined versus just the M3 pieces. Even if it's higher (which I'm not convinced of), I'm not sure for most people the extra expense is worth it. I spent $45 for the Whiteline inserts and installed them myself in my driveway. The M3 RSFB's would've cost $200-$300 + something like 8 hours of labor at a shop.

[houtan]

I don't have any experience with the inserts, but I believe the weak point is the softness of the stock RSFB. Slipping the inserts may firm things up, but wont they still wiggle when the stock rubber gives?

Either way, if you are going to install the inserts, might as well spend the extra hour and half and do the full white line bushing. That way you are not mixing materials. If you rent the tool from hpa, removing the stock bushings is extremely easy. The install of the two piece whiteline bushings are easy as well.

[Solo_M_Tech]

Get the Ebay toe arms and install them. Only way if you'll know if they help or not. I can't see how they will make any difference with how firm the rear subframe feels but knock yourself out!

[gap]

I installed the M3 rear subframe bushings in January with Rogue toe arms and it pulls straight under load. Toe did get out of alignment a few months after the install and the rear was once again became squirrely. I was told that this can happen as the bushing seat.
After the second alignment all is well.
If I were to do it again I would probably go with Tuner solid bushings.

More money for the Rogue set but it looks to be better made.
http://www.rogueengineering.com/rogu...RM/E9X_TA.html

[Dackelone]

krazi3azn How low is your car? It's my understanding that you only need these links when you really get the car lowered OR if you use the rear M3(1M) control arms. You really should ask Harold HP Autosport He is the suspension Meister.

Have you had your alignment checked? That would tell you IF you need these links too.

I think most instability when lowered and running stiller shocks is due to the rear subframe bushings - flexing. M3/1M rsb is the answer.

[HP Autosport]

PM or email me with any questions you may have.

[rod.bearings]

Originally Posted by Dackelone

krazi3azn How low is your car? It's my understanding that you only need these links when you really get the car lowered OR if you use the rear M3(1M) control arms. You really should ask Harold HP Autosport He is the suspension Meister.

Have you had your alignment checked? That would tell you IF you need these links too.

I think most instability when lowered and running stiller shocks is due to the rear subframe bushings - flexing. M3/1M rsb is the answer.

Yea I'm not too low, I had an alignment last year and it was all good
Just looking at different alternatives to make the rear end more planted for next season

Maybe all I need is a better alignment lol, just thought this would be a great option to try for only $60

[John_01]

Are those ebay parts really safe?

If the toe link fails, you are going to have a massive crash. I'd be wary.

[zapatista]

Originally Posted by John_01

Are those ebay parts really safe?

If the toe link fails, you are going to have a massive crash. I'd be wary.

Well of course the toe arms are safe...they're are Red, G Plus RED!

[AlexR6]

Originally Posted by krazi3azn

Yea I'm not too low, I had an alignment last year and it was all good
Just looking at different alternatives to make the rear end more planted for next season

Maybe all I need is a better alignment lol, just thought this would be a great option to try for only $60

I installed Manzo rear toe arms, rubber bushings are much stiffer than the stock bushings in the OEM arms but.... no effect on the stability of the rear end once the alignament has been done properly.

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by zapatista

Well of course the toe arms are safe...they're are Red, G Plus RED!

You know... lots of stuff on ebay is counterfeit "stuff". I think that is what John_01 was alluding too.

[houtan]

Originally Posted by AlexR6

I installed Manzo rear toe arms, rubber bushings are much stiffer than the stock bushings in the OEM arms but.... no effect on the stability of the rear end once the alignament has been done properly.

Have you upgraded your rear subframe bushings?

[AlexR6]

Originally Posted by houtan

Have you upgraded your rear subframe bushings?

Yes, first mod I've done

I have whiteline bushings.

[houtan]

Originally Posted by AlexR6

Yes, first mod I've done

I have whiteline bushings.

Daym! I was hoping you were going to say you were on the stock bushings still haha

I have the whiteline bushings as well. Was thinking about getting the megan racing toe arms to see if they would help with the rear end wiggle under heavy load. I know the manzo arms are hard rubber vs ball joints in the megans, but not sure there is a dramatic difference between the two.

hmmmmmm, what to do..

[Solo_M_Tech]

Have you looked at tire type and pressure? That makes a huge difference. I am all stock on the rear end minus the ///M3 bushings and I have Zero stability issues under load. Car tracks nice and straight and there is no rear end wiggle.

[houtan]

really? are you running a tune on your car?

i have played with pressures a little bit. Tire shop told me to run 30 psi, which I did for a while. Then i switched to 35 psi. no difference. Tires in the rear are sumitomo htr z 275s. not the greatest tire but they have done me well so far.

The wiggle is honestly not horrible. I mainly feel it when doing WOT pulls under heavy load. For example when doing a 3rd gear pull to log a tune. When boost hits 20psi and the torque goes full tilt is when I feel it. when going WOT in the upper revs my car tracks straight and is very stable. So that's what kind of led me to maybe the rear toe is moving around under heavy load, because that is the only time it happens.

[houtan]

doing way more reading on toe arms than I ever thought was possible i realize this started out as a eBay toe arm thread, but figured i would post here than start a new thread.

in my research i came across two other potential toe arms that are available.

one from bimmerworld which comes with aurora bearings. It seems like this is a great option being that some have replaced the RE bearings with Aurora bearings. http://store.bimmerworld.com/bimmerw...set-p1992.aspx

one from ground control which comes with a lifetime warranty. This seems like a great option because of the lifetime warranty. What I don't like is it doesn't have a hex anywhere on the arm to help with making adjustments. http://www.ground-control-store.com/...hp/II=908/CA=6

Does anyone have experience with either product?

[Suprgnat]

Originally Posted by houtan

doing way more reading on toe arms than I ever thought was possible i realize this started out as a eBay toe arm thread, but figured i would post here than start a new thread.

in my research i came across two other potential toe arms that are available.

one from bimmerworld which comes with aurora bearings. It seems like this is a great option being that some have replaced the RE bearings with Aurora bearings. http://store.bimmerworld.com/bimmerw...set-p1992.aspx

one from ground control which comes with a lifetime warranty. This seems like a great option because of the lifetime warranty. What I don't like is it doesn't have a hex anywhere on the arm to help with making adjustments. http://www.ground-control-store.com/...hp/II=908/CA=6

Does anyone have experience with either product?

I have RE toe arms with about 15k miles on them with no issues so far. I purchased much better FK bearings over a year and 10k miles ago "just in case", but they still remain on the shelf in my garage.

All the bearing manufacturers have different grade bearings, it's just that Rogue didn't spec a particularly high grade from FK. The stock ones are 5/8-18, rated at 7,400 pounds and cost about $14 each. The replacements I purchased were $27 each from Summit, are rated at 17,959 pounds and you can really feel the difference in the bearing. I had also purchased one replacement from HP just to see if they were a higher spec, but they were the exact same FKs. In fact the description Harold sent me before I bought it was cut-and-paste from the McMaster-Carr web site for P/Ns 2458K171 (RH) and 2458K172 (LH)

The higher spec FK bearings are P/N JMX10T (RH) and JMXL10T (LH). They are available from Summit (FKB-JMX10T & FKB-JMXL10T) and McMaster-Carr (60745K271 and 60745K272, but $37.47 each).

One nice thing about the Rouge arms is that they came with Seals-It rod end boots (also available at McMaster, FWIW) which I think has really kept the crap out of the bearings. Then again, I live in California and don't see a lot of inclement weather.