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      03-20-2012, 06:08 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vgr02 View Post
Just noticed you are from Brisbane. I'm about to get into one of the M Sport plus editions in Carbon Black and thinking of getting this Clear bra applied also. Can I ask who did your job in Brisbane?
Carbon black...
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      03-20-2012, 07:59 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMW86 View Post
Carbon black...
Yes .... i'm really hoping this colour will look good on a 1 ser coupe. This colour with 313 wheels and blackline tail light should look the business.
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      03-20-2012, 08:00 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimMc View Post
I'm not sure if he's still in business but it was this guy;
Dijon Johnson.
"The Racing Room".
PO Box 818, Everton Park QLD 4053
Ph: 07 3325 2886
Fax: 07 3325 4886
Email: dijon at theracingroom dot com dot au
Web: theracingroom dot com dot au

I hope you get better follow up service than I did from him.
Thank you ..... will get in contact with him
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      03-20-2012, 08:29 PM   #26
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Other protective measures ~

Scotchgard for the interior. Do it yourself but mask the dash, windows: anywhere you don't want it. That's all that the dealers do and charge $$$ for it. Protect your engine with extra, i.e. non scheduled, oil changes.
Make sure your dealer has stocks of the CORRECT oils for the first service where engine, gearbox and diff oils are changed.
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      03-20-2012, 10:02 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gazz View Post
Other protective measures ~

Scotchgard for the interior. Do it yourself but mask the dash, windows: anywhere you don't want it. That's all that the dealers do and charge $$$ for it.
Thanks for the tip Gazz... Thats a great idea to keep the alcantra looking like new..
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      03-21-2012, 12:28 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by Zuzu View Post
Thanks for the tip Gazz... Thats a great idea to keep the alcantra looking like new..
Message sent, Joe.
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      03-21-2012, 12:58 AM   #29
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Thanks for all the replys and PM's guys. So much info. Can't wait to get the car. First stop is to get paint protection and a clear bra.

Cheers!
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      03-21-2012, 01:34 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TWD View Post
Message sent, Joe.
Thanks again Raj for all your help and insight, with detailing and purchasing the correct products..
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      03-21-2012, 02:29 AM   #31
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I was thinking of getting Opticoat as I've heard good things about it.
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      03-21-2012, 06:35 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ianf View Post
+1 to OptiCoat. It is a permanent clear coat ceramic resin. I had it on my 135i and was very impressed. Downside is that it gives the car's paint a hard look, not like the soft wet look of wax.
As you'd know Ian, there are a few good products on the market and OptiCoat is one of them
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      03-21-2012, 07:57 PM   #33
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Good stuff, gonna get a quote for a light polish and opticoat.
I try to wash my car well (snow foam, two buckets etc) fortnightly but don't always have the time. It does get a bit dusty as it's in a carport and not a garage at home.
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      03-22-2012, 10:37 PM   #34
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Hi, I was going to get a 3M Ventureshield when I first got the 1M because I do a heap of highway driving. I've been lucky so far and only copped a couple of chips but want to get a full bonnet, front bumper, fenders, front and back wheel arches and mirrors done.

I've found a couple of them but the products look dodgy (not Ventureshield) and its usually an add-on to their business and don't seem all that interested, which makes you wonder about after sales issues like yellowing. I'm located on the Gold Coast, does anyone know of a decent supplier/installer. Thanks

Last edited by AUS1M; 04-07-2012 at 05:38 PM.. Reason: Typo
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      04-03-2012, 10:33 PM   #35
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Now that Ive got the car I popped past a local place in Adelaide to see what they recommendation for the paint. The mentioned Gtechniq C1 on the pain, trim and wheels. I didn't get a lot of info about its benefits other than it provide a hardened surface and repels water/dirt etc, but its about $1k to apply.

The question is, is this worth it? or am I better off getting another product and doing this myself. I have no problems spending time washing and waxing the car and if the process is not complicated I'm happy to apply my own protection. eg. I will be scotchguarding the interior myself this weekend.

Being in SA, I feel as if there isn't much choice regarding this type of thing.
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      04-04-2012, 01:54 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matts325i View Post
Now that Ive got the car I popped past a local place in Adelaide to see what they recommendation for the paint. The mentioned Gtechniq C1 on the pain, trim and wheels. I didn't get a lot of info about its benefits other than it provide a hardened surface and repels water/dirt etc, but its about $1k to apply.

The question is, is this worth it? or am I better off getting another product and doing this myself. I have no problems spending time washing and waxing the car and if the process is not complicated I'm happy to apply my own protection. eg. I will be scotchguarding the interior myself this weekend.

Being in SA, I feel as if there isn't much choice regarding this type of thing.
I'm in the NT - so it's worse in terms of choice!

I ordered a full front & side mirror Ventureshield wrap from Laminx.com. Cost me around ~$400 - I think.

I then got a signwriting company here - that does a lot of work for us to wrap it - somewhat reluctantly.

It's been on since August and has definitely copped a beating over the last 20K kms. The thing has discoloured somewhat so Lamin-X sent me another wrap kit - I added the rocker panel and rear guard (very important in hind site) to order as well.

The paint protection kits are pretty useless in the long term - in my opinion.

AlpineE92M3's Full Metal Jacket looks excellent though, but that is done by a very specialised shop in Melbourne.
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      04-04-2012, 02:58 AM   #37
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Thanks for the laminx link, I'll read further about this. I guess for $1k I'm wondering if I'm better off keeping up my regular waxing of the car, or is this really much better?
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      04-04-2012, 03:02 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matts325i View Post
Thanks for the laminx link, I'll read further about this. I guess for $1k I'm wondering if I'm better off keeping up my regular waxing of the car, or is this really much better?
Not sure about the product in question. The guy who details my car rubs some stuff on it regularly. The stuff costs next to nothing and it doesn't take a lot to apply it but is charged like the Running of Bulls in Pampelona.

I guess it's an individual decision. I like the wrap as I can see the protection it offers from stone chips - I can't see the same from anything else.
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      04-04-2012, 12:29 PM   #39
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Paint Protection Maintenance Suggestions

I have been installing film for 15+ years here are a few lessons learned.

Use wax on the film 3M (Scotchgard & Venture as well Now) recommends 3M Performance Finish Polymer wax. PLUS if you have any issues you can always say "Hey I used what was recommended by you to protect it" less chance of a warranty rejection.

DO NOT use tire shine. Petroleum distillates will yellow the film within 6 months, no matter the mfg. Unless you plan on drifting no good for the track either.

DO NOT use pink or blue waxes on any white paint. The film is softer than paint so it is designed to absorb an impact and reject it without damaging the paint below. If you use pigmented wax it will absorb the pigment slowly but eventually. If you do not wash & wax it it will absorb whatever the road attaches to it, hence the need for a sacrificial layer of wax.

Full panel installs hide subtle differences in the appearance vs doing partial panel installs.

Automated car washes (heaven forbid we take our cars there) literally etch the dirt off the car. Great for automated car wash profits bad for paint & film. At a recent dealer conference it was advised to communicate to owners to limit automated washes to a few a year. Hand wash locations use milder detergents as they come into contact with workers skin.

There are retailers out there offering NON top coated versions of pretty much all film out there. Great for seasonal racers who want lower pricing as they will be either changed (new sponsors) or need paint by the end of the season. FOR THE LONG TERM demand only top coated films, you'll thank me in 6 months.

Any other questions feel free to contact me.

Laszlo
Monster Coatings Inc.
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      04-04-2012, 03:57 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MonsterCoatings View Post
I have been installing film for 15+ years here are a few lessons learned.

Use wax on the film 3M (Scotchgard & Venture as well Now) recommends 3M Performance Finish Polymer wax. PLUS if you have any issues you can always say "Hey I used what was recommended by you to protect it" less chance of a warranty rejection.

DO NOT use tire shine. Petroleum distillates will yellow the film within 6 months, no matter the mfg. Unless you plan on drifting no good for the track either.

DO NOT use pink or blue waxes on any white paint. The film is softer than paint so it is designed to absorb an impact and reject it without damaging the paint below. If you use pigmented wax it will absorb the pigment slowly but eventually. If you do not wash & wax it it will absorb whatever the road attaches to it, hence the need for a sacrificial layer of wax.

Full panel installs hide subtle differences in the appearance vs doing partial panel installs.

Automated car washes (heaven forbid we take our cars there) literally etch the dirt off the car. Great for automated car wash profits bad for paint & film. At a recent dealer conference it was advised to communicate to owners to limit automated washes to a few a year. Hand wash locations use milder detergents as they come into contact with workers skin.

There are retailers out there offering NON top coated versions of pretty much all film out there. Great for seasonal racers who want lower pricing as they will be either changed (new sponsors) or need paint by the end of the season. FOR THE LONG TERM demand only top coated films, you'll thank me in 6 months.

Any other questions feel free to contact me.

Laszlo
Monster Coatings Inc.
Thanks for taking the time to post Laszlo. Appreciate your time and info.
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      04-04-2012, 05:10 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MonsterCoatings
I have been installing film for 15+ years here are a few lessons learned.

Use wax on the film 3M (Scotchgard & Venture as well Now) recommends 3M Performance Finish Polymer wax. PLUS if you have any issues you can always say "Hey I used what was recommended by you to protect it" less chance of a warranty rejection.

DO NOT use tire shine. Petroleum distillates will yellow the film within 6 months, no matter the mfg. Unless you plan on drifting no good for the track either.

DO NOT use pink or blue waxes on any white paint. The film is softer than paint so it is designed to absorb an impact and reject it without damaging the paint below. If you use pigmented wax it will absorb the pigment slowly but eventually. If you do not wash & wax it it will absorb whatever the road attaches to it, hence the need for a sacrificial layer of wax.

Full panel installs hide subtle differences in the appearance vs doing partial panel installs.

Automated car washes (heaven forbid we take our cars there) literally etch the dirt off the car. Great for automated car wash profits bad for paint & film. At a recent dealer conference it was advised to communicate to owners to limit automated washes to a few a year. Hand wash locations use milder detergents as they come into contact with workers skin.

There are retailers out there offering NON top coated versions of pretty much all film out there. Great for seasonal racers who want lower pricing as they will be either changed (new sponsors) or need paint by the end of the season. FOR THE LONG TERM demand only top coated films, you'll thank me in 6 months.

Any other questions feel free to contact me.

Laszlo
Monster Coatings Inc.
Koszi, Laszlo!
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      04-04-2012, 07:00 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matts325i View Post
Now that Ive got the car I popped past a local place in Adelaide to see what they recommendation for the paint. The mentioned Gtechniq C1 on the pain, trim and wheels. I didn't get a lot of info about its benefits other than it provide a hardened surface and repels water/dirt etc, but its about $1k to apply.

The question is, is this worth it? or am I better off getting another product and doing this myself. I have no problems spending time washing and waxing the car and if the process is not complicated I'm happy to apply my own protection. eg. I will be scotchguarding the interior myself this weekend.

Being in SA, I feel as if there isn't much choice regarding this type of thing.
Gtechniq make some very good products, the results I have seen from Andrew @ OziCozi have been fantastic.

They don't sell C1 to the public, simply because you need to know what you're doing. It's not simple to apply and that's why you are paying 1k to have it applied. All in all, not a bad price considering the complete exterior is being treated. However, I'm not sure about its durability range.

Nanolex has a similar product in their Professional line, but again, you need to know how to apply, otherwise you won't get the intended results.

Alternatively, you can buy a sealant that you can re use over time and will work out cheaper for you. I sent you a PM a while back with all that information.
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      04-22-2012, 07:16 AM   #43
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Sorry to revive a relatively old thread fellas, but I didn't want to start up another one.

My dealer's offering me a full interior and exterior protection package called Platinum Plus, anyone heard of it? They say that the paint protection is a sort of ceramic coating that protects the paint work from everything (bar physical damage, stone chips) for life. Has anyone got any experience with this? Total cost is just under the $3k mark. I've always felt dealer protection was a scam (which has also been expressed over the last 3 pages!) but I've never heard of anything like this.

And can anyone recommend somewhere in Melbourne to apply 3M Ventureshield or XPEL film?
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      04-23-2012, 09:20 AM   #44
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Wouldnt the ventureshield be better at protecting the paintwork than opti coat and the like?
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