N55 High Pressure Fuel Pump

[lupa]

Hey guys --

I've gotten great advice in here in the past (suspension), so I thought I'd throw this up on the wall as it is happening:

2011 135i M Sport-- about a year or so ago, I got the dreaded limp power warning on the dash on the way home one day. Rough idle, stalled at a traffic light. Got it off the road when there was finally a chance, and couldn't find anything in the manual that helped. I parked, shut down, turned off an on, and the warning light cleared. I watched it for a while, but I've had a lot going on in my life (three kids in two years, big project for work overseas, burgeoning love for golf and whisky in my free time), so I sort of forgot about it. I was more concerned about the terrible handling in the interim, which, with your help, I diagnosed and had fixed.

I got the limp power light yesterday. Tried the same thing over the last day -- run gently, let it heat up, shut down, turn back on. I check the error codes through the dash, and only get CC ID 29...which means it is at low power. When it runs, it operates smoothly, but it is pretty clear that the turbo is being bypassed (or not used, don't know how to describe it), and effectively I'm in a 128.

I'm heading out to buy a code reader today so I can at least see what is going on in the ECU. From my online research, it looks like this could be a problem with the high pressure fuel pump (likely), the VANOS, or a sensor.

I've never checked codes on a vehicle before, and I will be clear: I don't trust my local BMW dealership. I have video of issues with my car that they claim just weren't happening, and I've had other issues with them since day one.

I think I'm looking for a little guidance here if anyone else has had this problem on the N55, and if it is possible to handle myself, as I am out of warrantly -- 73k miles.

Any input is appreciated.

EDIT: I think I may have landed in the wrong forum section...I don't have the 1M, it is the 135i with the sport package. If this is in the wrong place, my apologies, can we move it?

[lupa]

Update: fault codes P052B and P054B...cold start cam shaft position A and B problems.

Looks like it is either VANOS solenoids or the whole bolt shearing deal? I've been online a lot looking for direction, and it isn't exactly clear if there is a recall on the N55 or not..? Does anyone have info on this before I head to the dealership tomorrow?

Thanks!

[Solo_M_Tech]

1. Wrong Section

2. There is an active recall for the Vanos bolts on the N55.

3. Take it to the dealer.

[The Wind Breezes]

Go here and enter your vin or last 7 to see open recalls on your car. If the vanos bolts don't show you should be good on that issue.

http://www.bmwusa.com/standard/conte...eoverride=true

[lupa]

I'm going to move this over to the right sub forum, recreate it there. I originally posted from my phone, didn't see I was in here...my bad.

I have some updates and questions.

[lupa]

There is a recall on the N55 VANOS, check your VIN to verify.

^^ I checked, and my VIN is only showing the airbag issue.

So, I got a cheap code reader for $40. Originally I had

- P052B -- Cold start camshaft position A over retarded
- P054B -- Cold start camshaft position B over retarded
- P300 series...random cylinder misfires

So, I decided I wanted to poke around a little in there before I limp to the dealership (because I don't trust them at all...could start other threads for that), and because I'm curious and would like to learn. I pulled the air intake off last night with all associated parts. Nothing major, just wanted to get a better view.

The entire right side of the engine was splattered with oil. This part is odd, because I haven't been seeing any warnings about oil, but it is difficult to estimate how much is there. I cleaned what I could reach, and cracked open the oil filter...the top of the filter housing body was completely flooded to the point that some spilled out, then it started quickly draining down and in. I could hear it trickling down into the engine. My experience here is nil, so I have no idea if this is normal. I'll probably replace the filter because of what happened (next paragraph, one code is gone). Other than that, it looks like the O-ring was flattened out on one side; it wasn't terribly crushed, but it is bad enough that this is probably the issue. I should note that I have the oil changed at 5k miles consistently (no idea if this is overkill or not).

I decided it was late, I was tired and cranky, so I put everything back together, hooked up the battery, cleared the codes. Started it back up, and P052B hasn't returned, P054B is still there. It ran in limp mode for a while pretty smoothly, but then cylinder misfires started happening again. Shut it down after that.

So, I think my question is if problems with oil pressure or flow could cause the VANOS solenoids to not function properly and give me these codes? Are the two problems just not related at all and I'm seeing two things happening at once? Anyone have any good advice?

I've searched for instructions on getting to the solenoids on the N55 here and at other sites, and either I am completely P054b (over retarded), or there is no instruction set. I see tons of them for the N54, but not mine. Help?

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by lupa

Update: fault codes P052B and P054B...cold start cam shaft position A and B problems.

Looks like it is either VANOS solenoids or the whole bolt shearing deal? I've been online a lot looking for direction, and it isn't exactly clear if there is a recall on the N55 or not..? Does anyone have info on this before I head to the dealership tomorrow?

Thanks!

These links might help you...

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1007913

(also read the 2nd page)
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=831971

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=970569

[Solo_M_Tech]

100% Vanos bolts. Have it towed to your local dealership and have it repaired. Your car should be covered by the recall.

[lupa]

I talked to the dealership yesterday, and they told me there are no recalls on my vehicle after looking up the VIN other than the airbag issue.

I've found all the articles stating that this recall exists, but they are telling me no.

What to do? Is this reparable at home?

[ignote]

I think you need to either find an independent shop that knows BMWs to look at it or just take it in to the dealer. These cars are very complicated and difficult to diagnose when there is something wrong.

[lupa]

Spoke to a different bloke at the dealership, and now they are claiming that the recall work was done on my car during the regular maintenance they performed in Sept 2014. This is after telling me there was no recall.

They are a bunch of asshats.

I feel like I need to figure this out for myself before I head in.

[lupa]

Thread bump update:

I decided to eliminate all possible issues that could cause the codes I was getting (P052B and P054B with random misfires) before I went back to the dealership that I don't trust.

So, I took out the VANOS solenoids last night and cleaned them thoroughly. They were COMPLETELY fouled with sludge and what at first glance looked like metal. I also hooked up a 12V DC power supply to each of them to check that the solenoids actually fired (they did), so I finished cleaning them, made sure they were clear, and re-installed.

The car gave the cold position cam code (P052B) again, but the engine idled nicely and actually ran pretty smoothly. No misfires. I kinda figured it would need to run a bit to rebuild oil pressure and actually let the solenoid move the cam, so I drove it softly for a few miles until it warmed up.

I then cleared the codes, restarted, and waited. I sat idling for a few minutes, just waiting for the limp mode signal to come back on, but it never happened. I drove it for about 15 miles, gently, but now with full power. There was no indication of problems.

Last check I did was this morning -- I figured if it was going to fail, it would be on a cold start. It fired up, and then dropped to normal idle way more quickly than it has in a long time.

I drove it another 15 or so miles tonight, and it runs very nicely again. I pushed it *a little* to see if it would give some failure, but it seems pretty solid.

I guess the fouled solenoids weren't letting oil flow, which was putting those cams out of position?

As for the stuff that looked like metal at first glance -- I checked the oil filter and saw no metal pieces in it, so I kinda crushed the bits between my fingers and they crumbled immediately, almost like they were weak crystals. Any ideas what that could be?

Anyway, again, thanks for the help and the ideas. I now know to clean those solenoids periodically...

[Downeaster1]

Shoot me the last 7 of your VIN number, and I'll check the history at the dealership.

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by lupa

Thread bump update:

I decided to eliminate all possible issues that could cause the codes I was getting (P052B and P054B with random misfires) before I went back to the dealership that I don't trust.

So, I took out the VANOS solenoids last night and cleaned them thoroughly. They were COMPLETELY fouled with sludge and what at first glance looked like metal. I also hooked up a 12V DC power supply to each of them to check that the solenoids actually fired (they did), so I finished cleaning them, made sure they were clear, and re-installed.

The car gave the cold position cam code (P052B) again, but the engine idled nicely and actually ran pretty smoothly. No misfires. I kinda figured it would need to run a bit to rebuild oil pressure and actually let the solenoid move the cam, so I drove it softly for a few miles until it warmed up.

I then cleared the codes, restarted, and waited. I sat idling for a few minutes, just waiting for the limp mode signal to come back on, but it never happened. I drove it for about 15 miles, gently, but now with full power. There was no indication of problems.

Last check I did was this morning -- I figured if it was going to fail, it would be on a cold start. It fired up, and then dropped to normal idle way more quickly than it has in a long time.

I drove it another 15 or so miles tonight, and it runs very nicely again. I pushed it *a little* to see if it would give some failure, but it seems pretty solid.

I guess the fouled solenoids weren't letting oil flow, which was putting those cams out of position?

As for the stuff that looked like metal at first glance -- I checked the oil filter and saw no metal pieces in it, so I kinda crushed the bits between my fingers and they crumbled immediately, almost like they were weak crystals. Any ideas what that could be?

Anyway, again, thanks for the help and the ideas. I now know to clean those solenoids periodically...

You might just replace both sensors and see what happens. The sensors aren't that expensive at around $120 each.

Definitively find a new dealership or indi shop.

Good Luck,
Dackel

[rezilient]

Originally Posted by lupa

Thread bump update:

I decided to eliminate all possible issues that could cause the codes I was getting (P052B and P054B with random misfires) before I went back to the dealership that I don't trust.

So, I took out the VANOS solenoids last night and cleaned them thoroughly. They were COMPLETELY fouled with sludge and what at first glance looked like metal. I also hooked up a 12V DC power supply to each of them to check that the solenoids actually fired (they did), so I finished cleaning them, made sure they were clear, and re-installed.

The car gave the cold position cam code (P052B) again, but the engine idled nicely and actually ran pretty smoothly. No misfires. I kinda figured it would need to run a bit to rebuild oil pressure and actually let the solenoid move the cam, so I drove it softly for a few miles until it warmed up.

I then cleared the codes, restarted, and waited. I sat idling for a few minutes, just waiting for the limp mode signal to come back on, but it never happened. I drove it for about 15 miles, gently, but now with full power. There was no indication of problems.

Last check I did was this morning -- I figured if it was going to fail, it would be on a cold start. It fired up, and then dropped to normal idle way more quickly than it has in a long time.

I drove it another 15 or so miles tonight, and it runs very nicely again. I pushed it *a little* to see if it would give some failure, but it seems pretty solid.

I guess the fouled solenoids weren't letting oil flow, which was putting those cams out of position?

As for the stuff that looked like metal at first glance -- I checked the oil filter and saw no metal pieces in it, so I kinda crushed the bits between my fingers and they crumbled immediately, almost like they were weak crystals. Any ideas what that could be?

Anyway, again, thanks for the help and the ideas. I now know to clean those solenoids periodically...

Hi Lupa.

I have the exact same symptoms right now with my 2011 135i. I'm praying that it isn't the VANOS bolt shearing issue because my car probably wouldn't be covered under the recall.

Just wondering if you are still running fine after cleaning up the solenoids? I pulled mine this morning and they don't seem to be THAT dirty but I'll clean them up anyway and maybe try that 12V test as well. Thanks.

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by rezilient

Hi Lupa.

I have the exact same symptoms right now with my 2011 135i. I'm praying that it isn't the VANOS bolt shearing issue because my car probably wouldn't be covered under the recall.

A dealer can NOT deny to perform a recall on your car. No matter how highly mod'd it is. A recall has no expiration date. Doesn't matter if your 1st owner or the 21st owner. A recall is a recall.

Now a service action(or TSB, technical service bulletin) is different. A TSB is only valid while the car is under warranty(and more importantly) WHEN the customer is complaining about an issue that the TSB addresses.

The HPFP recall was only for 2008 & 2009 model year 135i's (N54). The 2010 and later N54's(also 1M's) were never recalled. N55's were never recalled as well.

IF your car does need a new HPFP... they are not that expensive at $400ish plus that low pressure switch and two hours labor.

Dackel

[rezilient]

Originally Posted by Dackelone

A dealer can NOT deny to perform a recall on your car. No matter how highly mod'd it is. A recall has no expiration date. Doesn't matter if your 1st owner or the 21st owner. A recall is a recall.

Now a service action(or TSB, technical service bulletin) is different. A TSB is only valid while the car is under warranty(and more importantly) WHEN the customer is complaining about an issue that the TSB addresses.

The HPFP recall was only for 2008 & 2009 model year 135i's (N54). The 2010 and later N54's(also 1M's) were never recalled. N55's were never recalled as well.

IF your car does need a new HPFP... they are not that expensive at $400ish plus that low pressure switch and two hours labor.

Dackel

Hi Dackel. Thanks for the quick reply. In the case of this thread, the OP found out it was the VANOS solenoid valves (not HPFP) that was causing his issue. I have the exact same codes being thrown, so I am going to clean the VANOS solenoids and see if that helps.

I was worried about the VANOS bolt shearing recall mentioned here: http://www.bmwblog.si/media/2014/08/...V176-8618P.pdf

This impacts my 2011 135i with Nov 2010 build date. However my car has a SALVAGE/REBUILT title which means it was declared a total loss at one point (only cosmetic issues which were resolved). So I believe BMW can decline the recall on my vehicle.

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by rezilient

Hi Dackel. Thanks for the quick reply. In the case of this thread, the OP found out it was the VANOS solenoid valves (not HPFP) that was causing his issue. I have the exact same codes being thrown, so I am going to clean the VANOS solenoids and see if that helps.

I was worried about the VANOS bolt shearing recall mentioned here: http://www.bmwblog.si/media/2014/08/...V176-8618P.pdf

This impacts my 2011 135i with Nov 2010 build date. However my car has a SALVAGE/REBUILT title which means it was declared a total loss at one point (only cosmetic issues which were resolved). So I believe BMW can decline the recall on my vehicle.

Ok, I understand now.

But "how" would a BMW dealer know your car had a salvaged title? As long as your car is registered I would just have them do the recall and be dine with it.

Maybe M3 Adjuster might know IF the DMV shares this info for its dealers. ?

I would just play "dumb" and see IF they repair your car under the warranty.

Dackel

[M3 Adjuster]

Originally Posted by Dackelone

Ok, I understand now.

But "how" would a BMW dealer know your car had a salvaged title? As long as your car is registered I would just have them do the recall and be dine with it.

Maybe M3 Adjuster might know IF the DMV shares this info for its dealers. ?

I would just play "dumb" and see IF they repair your car under the warranty.

Dackel

I agree. I can't imagine the dealer knowing the repair history unless you tell them. Mums the word. If the cars damage and repairs didn't involve replacement or modification to the OE parts, the same warranty should apply.

[Downeaster1]

In DCS, I've seen vehicles with special notes rendering the warranty invalid. How that information gets there, I have no idea...but they do know sometimes.

[geeyore]

Originally Posted by lupa

they are claiming that the recall work was done on my car during the regular maintenance they performed in Sept 2014.

You might ask them to send you a copy of the Sept 2014 service invoice.

Hard to imagine they'd have done the recall without logging it in their system and on your service invoice.

[jafo1701]

Originally Posted by M3 Adjuster

I agree. I can't imagine the dealer knowing the repair history unless you tell them. Mums the word. If the cars damage and repairs didn't involve replacement or modification to the OE parts, the same warranty should apply.

My car is a salvage, cosmetic only. Bought it in 2012, it's a 2011 135i. Never denied any warranty work or recalls. I didn't tell them, obviously didn't come in their computers.