Planning for a track day, what do I need?

[TechieCarGuy]

Ok, so its been about 15 years since I regularly did a track day. I use to do club events and some solo events in my Miata about 6-8 times a year, but haven't felt the cars I was driving since were capable of or worthy of offering the same level of fun and enjoyment as the Miata.

Now that I have a 135i, I've rejoined Chin and am eyeing a track Day in late March at Road Atlanta. Which was the last track I ever drove my Miata on... sort of a sentimental thing I guess.

Anyway, my 135 is a 2010 N54 that I bought used with the automatic. The only thing the previous owner did was replace the RFT's with street tires, but the car has mismatch brands front to rear (Nexan and Nitto). The only service I haven't had done and suspect the previous owner neglected was the brake fluid flush, my mechanic says I have a few more miles on my pads.

I'm not looking to do any upgrades before this first event and would prefer to get to know the car stock before I make any changes, or start dropping money into it (which is hard as we all know). I do drive the car everyday as my commuter car so am not seeking to create a racecar, but want to balance my desire to enjoy the cars full capabilities (on the track) with the need to remain comfortable in stop-and-go traffic I face every day.

Despite my first outing being with an instructor, and probably spending more time in a classroom to refresh my vocabulary on the art of racing I don’t expect to be able to, nor plan on really pushing the car this trip. My initial concern however the brake fluid… the car is telling me the service is overdue, but in consultation with my mechanic I am holding off a little longer to do pads and fluid (and possible brake lines) all at the same time. I wasn’t planning on doing either before this event, but don’t want to end my outing prematurely into a tire barrier, like the one at the end of the downhill bit at Road ATL.

Bottom-line, I’m looking for feedback, suggestions and otherwise unsolicited wisdom from others who have experience with these cars in similar settings. I could also use some input on preparing for my first track day in a number of years.

All I have is an Snell 2010 open-faced helmet that I found at a discount store a few months ago. It meets the standard that Chin requires. I have a Longachre tire guage, small tool kit and a couple of all-in-one jack stands/bottle jacks but I have no other gear.

I do have the Carly BT dongle for the OBDII and have solicited input elsewhere for a data logger app for my Android phone, but more personal than that stuff. What else should I have handy? I don’t want to bring a whole ton of stuff in the car since my memory has me lining the paddock with the contents from the trunk of my Miata and some of said stuff never making it home, but I do want to be prepared.
Any help for a re-first timer is appreciated

[killerhurtalot]

Well, with most track days, before you can actually go out on a track, you'll need to get a garage to pass you on the tech inspections.

The local groups here require your pads to have a minimum of 35% left and also the brake fluids to be less than 12 months old and the tires aren't too worn down (our minimum here is like 4/32 or 5/32 left on the treads)

Check with your club for the tech inspection sheets and ask your mechanic to do everything on there.

I would say that as long as everything checks out and your tires aren't going to explode provided that you pass the tech inspection, it's more than enough to get you through your first track day in a 135i.

Edit: And honestly, the car doesn't need much more power (but that's what people get anyways since it's the most noticeable). The car needs suspension improvements badly to get rid of the understeer prone set-up... Basically, wider front tires, M3 control arms, and front thicker sway bars. Besides that, the only thing I would do is get better brake pads and maybe stainless steel brake lines/better fluid.

[Ric in RVA]

Originally Posted by killerhurtalot

Edit: And honestly, the car doesn't need much more power (but that's what people get anyways since it's the most noticeable). The car needs suspension improvements badly to get rid of the understeer prone set-up... Basically, wider front tires, M3 control arms, and front thicker sway bars. Besides that, the only thing I would do is get better brake pads and maybe stainless steel brake lines/better fluid.

Bigger front bar has always equaled MORE push, not less.

I would do the least amount of mods possible and the most amount of maintenance. You want safety and reliability first. Speed comes later.

New pads, new fluid, New brake lines, check wheel bearings, change the oil and fluids, check belts.

Believe me there is way more to be found in YOU than in the car.

[TechieCarGuy]

I am playing around with the idea of doing some sort of mild tune, like the Burger JB+, but have decided that I will go ahead and upgrade the brake fluid with a higher temp variety and may go ahead and do new pads. I am torn between seeking a lower dust and a higher performance, unless one exist that offers both. If I can do new pads for under $300 I will do new lines as well since the brakes are the one area on this car that I am uncertain of how the previous owner maintained them.

Whether or not I do a mild tune, after I have done my first track day I will re-evaluate my other needs, including suspension mods.

What about personal items for a fun and successful track day? Obviously things like chairs, coolers, etc but I also want to travel light and not have to worry about air tanks, etc. I'd like to just show up with my helmet, smartphone and mount and drive.

[The Wind Breezes]

0) DSC OFF (hold button for 2 seconds), and drive accordingly. You're wasting your time with aids that masc the physics and chassis dynamics of driving hard.

1)Coding: Disable the E-diff or you will be lapping slower than if you had an open diff to begin with. It heats up the rear brakes too much and the car cuts power as a result.

2)Coding: Disable brake adaptation and pre-tension. This makes braking much more consistent and may possibly help prevent damage. Unfortunately I don't have a link for these and e-diff coding, but someone else should be able to share. Plenty of people have tracked without doing 1 and 2, so it's not necessary for your first track day, but desirable.

3) Make sure you have a good driving position. You should be able to put your head and back against the seat and lay your wrists over the top of the wheel without your arms being completely locked. Very important.

4) Consider the seat belt trick depending on how hard you intend to drive. Slide the seat back farther than you need, yank the seat belt tightly while plugged in to lock it, and slide the seat up so it holds you firmly in place. Makes a big difference if you're pushing.

5) Take all the shit out of your car. I don't mean strip the interior, but you certainly don't want any loose items in the cabin, or anything that could even remotely detach and fly around.

6) Concentrate on accelerating as early as possible out of each corner, and don't push yourself on braking. You'll be less likely to go off and much faster this way, especially with little current experience.

7) Don't be too aggressive with the throttle until you are able to do so without getting the car sideways.

[John_01]

Its a really bad idea to go to the track with worn out pads. (I see your post where you decided to get new ones - v. good!) The stock pads are a weak link for a stock 135i even when they are in good condition. When they are worn out they will be even more prone to pad fade due to lower capacity to absorb heat. Reduced pad thickness also transfers more heat into the caliper and brake fluid.

I suggest getting Ferodo DS2500 pads for dual-duty street and track use. It will reduce the risk of brake problems, so its a kind of insurance. You you won't need to worry so much about pad fade, but still need fresh high temp fluid and inspect the caliper dust boots regularly. The dust boots on the brake pistons are likely to get melted as the pads wear down, but it depends on a few variables.

[TechieCarGuy]

How are the Ferodo DS2500 pads on the street, or are you suggesting I do a swap from street pads before the TD? Not ideal, nor probably necessary for my first outing since I will be lucky to get in a dozen or so laps period, more or less angrily. I was thinking of going with one of the Hawk Street/autocross style pads when I get my service done next month before the event.

[John_01]

The DS2500 are very usable on the street, so its not necessary to change them out between track days. However they aren't quite as user-friendly as a stock or OE style pad. They require about 50% increased pedal effort when they are cold, but its not a serious issue in my opinion. They will squeal from time to time. The dust levels are similar to stock. They last quite well and are not harsh on the brake rotors. The negative aspect is they don't accept the OE brake sensors, which must be relocated or cable tied to the suspension arm. Also they are slightly undersize compared to stock pads, so they make a "clunk" sound when you reverse or change direction backwards/forwards.

The DS2500 will perform extremely well for people using street, sport or autocross style tires. If you step up to R-comp (semi-slick) tires, they will still work reliably but will be at the top of their temperature range when doing more than a few successive hot laps on the 135i. That can result in some gradual pad fade assuming the fluid and callipers are not overheated before then.

I never tried the hawk pads so I can't comment about them.

[2PUTT]

Honestly, the car is plenty capable stock. Only thing I would suggest:
- full brake fluid flush (Motul RBF600 or Castrol SRF (I use SRF))
- better front brake pads (I use Porterfield R4.)
- better tires (Bridgestone RE-11 or RE-71/Dunlop ZII Star Spec)

I usually just bring:
- extra oil
- extra brake fluid
- torque wrench
- jack
- spare

[Rikx1M]

Good advice here already... For me I replaced OEM pads with Ferrodos, inserted titanium shims to dissipate heat, installed SS
lines, and changed to higher temp fluids. Car ran great on track but could have used a 4 or 5 point seat belt harness. For my 1M I had a custom harness made.

I normally travel with jack, stands, small air compressor, impact wrench, torque wrench, R888 Toyo track tires, oil, water, GoPros and basic tools. ... And make sure you consider insurance in case you bite it!

[hoki06]

Read through these:

https://www.nasaproracing.com/hpde/preparing.html
https://www.nasaproracing.com/hpde/firstday.html

All you really need is fresh brake fluid (other fluids are a good idea too), pads with greater than 50% life, tires is good shape (they DO NOT have to be anything special, all seasons are perfectly fine) and most importantly... a good attitude and open mind. Listen to your instructor and have fun!

[houtan]

Originally Posted by Rikx1M

Good advice here already... For me I replaced OEM pads with Ferrodos, inserted titanium shims to dissipate heat, installed SS
lines, and changed to higher temp fluids. Car ran great on track but could have used a 4 or 5 point seat belt harness. For my 1M I had a custom harness made.

I normally travel with jack, stands, small air compressor, impact wrench, torque wrench, R888 Toyo track tires, oil, water, GoPros and basic tools. ... And make sure you consider insurance in case you bite it!

Any recommendations on companies for track day insurance?

[MightyMouseTech]

Originally Posted by Ric in RVA

Bigger front bar has always equaled MORE push, not less.

I would do the least amount of mods possible and the most amount of maintenance. You want safety and reliability first. Speed comes later.

New pads, new fluid, New brake lines, check wheel bearings, change the oil and fluids, check belts.

Believe me there is way more to be found in YOU than in the car.

Not on a front strut suspension. Keeping the tires flatter provides more front grip than what you loose by increasing weight transfer to the outside front.

But agreed about the rest. Just get some good, fresh brake fluid and enjoy yourself. Just drive within the limits of the car.

[Rikx1M]

Originally Posted by houtan

Any recommendations on companies for track day insurance?

in the past I've used Lockton Motorsports dot com or Motorsportreg dot com

[houtan]

Originally Posted by Rikx1M

in the past I've used Lockton Motorsports dot com or Motorsportreg dot com

Thanks

[Mega Man]

Originally Posted by 2PUTT

I usually just bring:
- extra oil
- extra brake fluid
- torque wrench
- jack
- spare

You'll need the oil running at the RPM range you'll be at for the day.
You may or may not need the brake fluid, but it's cheap and might make the difference between a bad day and a great day.
The torque wrench! Check and torque down those lug nuts between runs.
Obviously, the jack and spare.

And buy 2PUTT a beer, that was great advice.

[houtan]

Why extra brake fluid?

[NorthernDancer]

-drinking water
-ginger ale
-torque wrench (or just borrow one while there)
-fresh brake fluid (NOT racing brake fluid)
-qt oil
-your stock pads if BMW will be ok for first few times

many places sell a simple colored gage to measure brake pad thickness; usually 50% or 6mm is minimum. Your helmut is perfect.

[tuj]

I would drive the car stock. BTW, the RFT dunlops absolutely SUCK on the track. Just no grip. The best pressures I found were 45 in front, 40 in back. If you have other tires, you will have much more fun.

Stock pads and fluid are ok if your lapping sessions are relatively short.

[John_01]

Extra brake fluid would be useful if you start to run low as pads wear or if you discover a fluid leak in the bleeders, for example. Also you can do a brake bleed if needed. Personally I do all brake Maintenance in advance. If any unknown brake issue comes up, it seems too risky to keep running. I keep spare fluid just in case I need to top up before driving home. I never needed to use it so far.

[chris82]

If you haven't had a brake fluid flush in a while, then get that done and get some high temp stuff put in.

[titium]

can high temp brake fluid like castrol srf be run all the time on the street?