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03-23-2014, 12:11 PM | #1 |
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Rear tire rubbing, need advice
I have a ZII square setup 245/40/17 on 40 et wheels, OEM suspension and vorslag camber plates, -2 camber in the front and -1.5 in the back. I've been breaking in the tires with street use ~250mi, and thought there was no rubbbing (although i did hear a squeak over a big pothole on the right rear) When i went to take the tires off, noticed the right rear did have some rubbing. There is a dark 1/2" wide band on going half way around of the outside edge of the tire. I looked under the fender and saw no signs of rubbing.
So, I want to do a autocross in a couple of weeks and don't know if i should even attempt it, or should i get a fender roll? Am i making too much out of the situation?
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Last edited by Hops128i; 03-23-2014 at 12:15 PM.. Reason: formatting text |
03-23-2014, 02:05 PM | #3 |
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how much risk is fender rolling to the paint?
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03-23-2014, 02:16 PM | #4 |
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There is a special 3M spray(or body shop chemical supplier) that you spray onto old paint and it softens the paint so you can roll the fenders or do some mild metal work on that panel. When you don't use a special chemical spray you can "pop" the paint off the panel that your trying to "roll". Also using a heat gun does wonders too. (Y)
Any body shop in your area should be able to handle this for you.
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03-23-2014, 02:52 PM | #5 |
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Heat gun and patience is all you need. I've rolled several cars w zero issues and rented out my roller to dozens of guys. The only times there are problems are due to prior body work
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03-23-2014, 03:23 PM | #6 |
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Did it for the first time last weekend with the Eastman tool and a heat gun. Went slow and kept the paint nice and warm, had zero problems. That rear lip is pretty thick though.
I only needed a few mm of clearance so I didn't take out the sealant inside the lip, but now I'm thinking of going more aggressive. Any advice on taking out the sealant inside? |
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03-23-2014, 04:47 PM | #7 |
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Hops, that a significant rub. Roll it and add some rear camber.
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03-23-2014, 05:47 PM | #8 | |
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Quote:
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03-24-2014, 08:43 AM | #10 |
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A roll will be good! But theres a lot of lip on the rear of these cars so if your still rubbing after a roll you might want to just trim. Also the rear bumper tab will also cause some rubbing if your wide. A lil trimming will help. Just make sure you go to someone who can roll fenders otherwise you will have some weird fender angle or curve.
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03-24-2014, 11:01 AM | #11 |
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I'm keeping the car 10+years, i have thoughts of retiring its DD duties as a track car, but i now realize a e36 i probably the better route.
Anyway, i realize fender rolling will probably effect the paint long term, but i don't care, i bought this car to drive hard, and get little opportunity in my commute. I probably should have gone 235 on the tires, but i found examples of a 245 square working in a et 40 wheel, even found an example with my exact tires. I guess i just didn't understand there were more variables involved.
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Last edited by Hops128i; 03-24-2014 at 11:35 AM.. |
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03-24-2014, 11:35 AM | #12 | |
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03-24-2014, 11:44 AM | #13 |
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Now you have me concerned... My understanding was that after I rolled, pulled and trimmed a little I applied a little clear coat on the inside of my fenders because of the removal and stretching of the paint, I would be good.
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03-24-2014, 11:49 AM | #14 |
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Fender rolling is generally judged by people who only have their cars for a short period of time. I'm not saying you are 100% guarenteed to have rust and a ruined car, but the fact is that paint is not designed to strech like that after curing. It bonds with the metal and you have a very good chance of breaking that bond.
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03-24-2014, 12:40 PM | #15 |
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I had the rear arches rolled on my E46 due to very serious tyre rubbing (much worse than yours), and the guy who did it also trimmed the plastic liners back in places. He then re-sealed where the arch had been rolled with a black polyurethane sealant to stop any water/dirt gathering. I expect the 1 series could be done in a similar fashion.
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03-24-2014, 03:48 PM | #16 |
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12 years and no rust on the fenders of my M3, nor my WRX, both of which were properly rolled.
Might it rust in 20 or 30 years? Sure. But other parts of the car will probably rust anyway. And can be repaired with little issues, especially on that portion of the car. |
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03-24-2014, 03:49 PM | #17 | |
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03-24-2014, 03:53 PM | #18 | |
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I'm not saying it will cause rust, I'm saying it increases your chances of rust. Lets people make an informed decision instead of just "do it do it do it".
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03-24-2014, 05:02 PM | #19 |
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Definitely get your fenders rolled. If the rolling is done correct, you won't have any cracked paint. Just find someone that has experience rolling fenders, and make sure they take their time. Some shops/fender rolling guys will have photos of their work, which could help you make your decision easier.
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03-24-2014, 05:05 PM | #20 |
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When I rolled my rear, I took 3M Underbody Spray and sprayed some within the "crease" portion of the rolled fender to eliminate any possible salt build-up down the road.
The rear fender lining is THICK, it is a difficult roll for sure. When I rolled mine, it ended up pulling slightly a bit...but we think I gained around 5mm of clearance for tires. |
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03-24-2014, 11:14 PM | #21 | |
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My other thoughts are: -If my math is right, i can get 2-3mm by going an extra .5 degrees camber on the rear. -And i'm thinking i just taking a metal file to the some of the roughness to the inner fender (that's what's making those two lines), think that might be worth 1mm. What a PITA this all is!!!
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03-25-2014, 08:01 AM | #22 | |
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I'm all for informed decisions as well, but you act like it's very common to encounter rust in a properly-rolled fender lip. Where are you seeing this as an issue that comes up with any regularity? |
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