HELP!: Stripped Rotor Set-Screw

[dsh135]

During an attempted front rotor replacement on my 135i I managed to strip the hex head of the 6mm set screw (don't ask ). So now it's round and there's no way any size of hex or torx will get a grip on it. The screw is also in there pretty tight, which is why it stripped in the first place. Any tips on the best way to get this thing out at this point? Would a screw extractor have any hope of working on this or is it unlikely to be able to hold the torque? If a screw extractor is a good option, what size?

Thx

[Pig Farmer]

Soak it with PB Blast, Liquid Wrench or CRC Freeze Off and let it sit for at least 30 minutes. You can pick up a whole set of screw extractors at Harbor Freigt for under $10. This happened to me on an old VW GTI. After soaking it with PB Blast, I hammered a large flat head screw driver into the bolt and got it to turn with almost zero effort.

[Horigan]

Just drill it out with a bit a little larger than the threaded portion. Once the head is removed you can remove the rotor and the remaining screw should come out relatively easily. If not, grind flats on it and remove with a wrench.

These don't need to be tight at all. They just hold the rotor in place until you get the wheels on. Use anti-seize on the new one.

[AKopp]

For next time... These are worth every penny.

[dsh135]

Thanks for the suggestions. Yes, I should have used a correct fitting hex driver from the outset instead of an allen key and my jack handle. I have one now to do the others.

[Fed P]

The suggestion is to use an impact gun / screwdriver - the impact really helps get these free.

As for the screw itself, same exact thing happened to me, I drilled it out (w/o screw extractor). Once the bulk of the screw was gone, it came out pretty easily.

[e36addict]

Get a torx socket slightly too large for the hole, and hammer that sucker down in there. Works every time

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by e36addict

Get a torx socket slightly too large for the hole, and hammer that sucker down in there. Works every time

+1

I have a T27 that I use for this very thing. A T25 is too small and a T30 is too big. A T27 is just right for the brake rotor set screws.

Sometimes it helps to spray down the set screw bolt with WD40 or LiquidWrench... let it sit for a while. Then use a 8mm punch on the head of the set screw with a BFG(Big F-ing Hammer) giving it a nice Luv tap! Don't be shy either with the LUV!! That will "wake up" thread rust and then you can tap on the T27 and turn it SLOWLY. IF that strips... use an easy out.


Another method is what a mechanic friend would say is the Gorillia technique! Since you are replacing your rotors... once you have removed the brake caliper and bracket... use your BFG hammer(5 kg or larger) and WHACK the back of the rotor off the hub. This will "pop" the head of the set screw off and the rotor will fall off.

Good Luck,
Dackel

[dsh135]

Good idea with the over-sized torx driver. I ended-up drilling it until the head popped off and then I pulled off the rotor and got the threaded part out with an extractor. I used a hex driver on the rest of the set screws and they all came out like butter.

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by dsh135

Good idea with the over-sized torx driver. I ended-up drilling it until the head popped off and then I pulled off the rotor and got the threaded part out with an extractor. I used a hex driver on the rest of the set screws and they all came out like butter.

^^

I forgot to mention that using a zinc anti-seize on the new screw will help the "next guy" doing a brake job. I also use zinc anti-seize around the hub and wheel bolt area - so the alloy wheel doesn't stick to the hub.

[SayHack]

get a drill, and drill a small hole in the middle of the screw....then get one of those Harbor Freight screw extractors and using that hole as a guide screw the extractor in there and that should work...(pb blaster optional but personally for me I didn't need it)

[Blacksport]

Here's how you get it out....take a Dremel with a cut-off disc and grind a straight, deep slot right across the screw...if you go into the rotor a little, don't worry, no biggie....now get an impact screw driver, one of those you hit with a hammer...put the biggest blade in the driver that'll fit the slot you cut...make the slot bigger if you have to....make sure the impact driver is set to "remove" and give a very serious wack with a large hammer or small sledge...wear a welding glove on your left hand if you're a lousy shot...whatever, but you got to really hit, and on the first shot...