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07-25-2020, 07:30 PM | #1 |
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2009 135i ate a belt
Hi all, I'm hoping to get some expertise as I'm really uncertain as to what lies in the future.
So about a week ago my N54 ate a belt, I am assuming due to oil leaks. I subsequently pulled the engine (first time ever!) to address all the gaskets, turbos, pcv etc, basically all key maintenance items. So when my car ate a belt, I got the half engine light immediately and drove for less than a block before I realized my belt was gone then I instantly turned the engine off. I have already confirmed that some belt went through the seal which is the main reason I pulled the engine. So anyways, here's the question; immediately after turning the engine off I checked the codes and got the following: -2a98 Crank shaft - inlet camshaft, correlation -2a99 Crank shaft - outlet camshaft, correlation -2e97 Generator -3100 low boost mode engaged -- CEL displayed So given these codes, are these common to have after eating a belt, or is it safe to assume I jumped timing? If that's the case, is there any easy method to check timing? I mean at this point it doesn't really matter since the engine is out but will I need the tool to check first or what? Let me know, thanks guys. |
08-01-2020, 11:57 AM | #2 |
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Timing is controlled by the timing chain, which is independent of that belt that ate itself. I'd say unless something else extreme happened at the same time as the belt failure, timing should be unaffected. Since you have the engine out already, might as well do a full check-over. How many miles on it?
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08-01-2020, 05:25 PM | #3 |
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How much oil was leaking before it snapped?
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2012 BMW 135i - 6MT w/ OEM 550i clutch & MFactory LWFW, Pure Stage 1, MFactory LSD, VRSF Catless Downpipe, JB4 w/ MHD BEF |
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08-01-2020, 07:54 PM | #4 |
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You defiantly want to take off the valve cover and oil pan, check the timing chain/sprockets, and oil pickup tube for pieces of belt.
Given you have timing faults I would also carefully inspect the timing guides for damage and check the timing. Your going to need timing tools which you can get off amazon and also the special tools to install the front main seal. |
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08-01-2020, 09:25 PM | #5 |
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And get one of these after you sorted the engine issues, probably the worst catastrophic event for the N54, everyone should put on one of these:
https://www.ebay.com/i/254490645479?chn=ps
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Metallic Black on Black 2009 135i, new waterpump, OFHGs, and VC gasket...RB turbo PCV valve (ooo), NGK performance plugs...V3Cobb access port stage 2+FMIC, Injen intake, Mishimoto clone FMIC, ARM charge pipe, ARM downpipes, Whiteline subframe bushings
Last edited by Mr Gasser; 08-01-2020 at 09:30 PM.. |
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08-02-2020, 09:40 AM | #6 | |
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Quote:
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08-02-2020, 09:56 AM | #7 | |
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The problem here in my opinion is when the oil filter housing leaks onto the belt, sometimes people change the gasket, sometimes sloppier techs drip oil directly onto the belt when changing it, and no one thinks twice about the belt that is now soaked in oil. It also doesn’t help that the belt on the n54 is a headache to change so it adds an hour or two of labor to the bill. |
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08-02-2020, 12:53 PM | #8 |
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It's a nice invention, but sure if you keep up with the gaskets and keep everything dry, there should be no problems...
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Metallic Black on Black 2009 135i, new waterpump, OFHGs, and VC gasket...RB turbo PCV valve (ooo), NGK performance plugs...V3Cobb access port stage 2+FMIC, Injen intake, Mishimoto clone FMIC, ARM charge pipe, ARM downpipes, Whiteline subframe bushings
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ate, belt, n54, serpentine |
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