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08-09-2011, 11:07 PM | #1 |
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Clay Bars...What will each do?
I have 2 new packages of Griots clay and 1 of Zymol clay.
I recently got my first bird dropping etch(light etching), and couldn't get it out with a basic OTC product (Meguiars scratch X 2.0). I didn't attempt any other measure yet other than regularily detailing my car. My question is this: Will the clays remove the etch? I know that all clays are an abrasive. And the Zymol clay is strong. It can leave marring and did on my car. I had to use a machine 2 polish to remove the marring. If clay is able to take out light bird etching I may give it a valliant try with the "safe" Griots clay....and I may even use the Zymol clay if I have to. I also have Zymol HD cleanse paint cleaner and several polishes from Griots and Meguairs mirror glaze line. They may work as well....but I would like to start with clays first (If they can take out light etching)
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Jimmy
1988 325i sedan (Cirrus Blue Metallic, Silver Grey Leather) 2011 128i convertible (Blue Water Metallic, Grey Leather) 2013 320i sedan (Sapphire Black Metallic, Black/Black) 2016 228i convertible (Mineral White, Oyster Leather, Luxury Line) |
08-10-2011, 12:08 PM | #2 |
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Claybar will only remove above surface contaminants. Etching is below the surface and would require to level out the surface using a polish. Seeing as scratch X hasn't worked, maybe move up to Meguiars Ultimate Compound, and then use scratch X afterwards (to restore paint to good clarity). There are other ways to remove etching CG Waterspot Remover which is an acid and it technically burns the minerals in the etch. Depending on how long its been on the paint it might require multiple tries with the acid.
What type of machine are you using? |
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08-10-2011, 09:02 PM | #3 |
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I've never used Meguairs ultimate compound, although I've seen it on the shelf at the several locations. I've yet to use anything else on the car other than the scratch x, which is always the closest thing in my garage to grab although I rarerly ever have to use it. (In this instance I applied and removed the product by hand).
I have a porter cable buffer (griots) and have some polishes of choice to use. I'm going to pick up the ultimate compound and try that, but I may start with a paint cleaner such as Zymol's HD cleanse. I'm due for a complete detail, as there is a car show on August 21 that I'm attending with my car. So this weekend will be the days in which I attack my flaws while doing the detail. I have absolutely no flaws anywhere interior/exterior other than this fresh bird etch and the horrible rock chip that is on my hood and is not anywhere near 100% fixed. That stone chip, btw will be the reason my car will not be competitive enough at the car show. The car is pretty much brand new so you can't miss the stone chip on the hood. Stands out way too much for my liking.
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Jimmy
1988 325i sedan (Cirrus Blue Metallic, Silver Grey Leather) 2011 128i convertible (Blue Water Metallic, Grey Leather) 2013 320i sedan (Sapphire Black Metallic, Black/Black) 2016 228i convertible (Mineral White, Oyster Leather, Luxury Line) |
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08-10-2011, 10:59 PM | #4 | |
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Quote:
Waterspot remover acts to suspend the mineral deposits in the solution so that it all can be removed from the surface together. It does nothing to remove actual etching damage; it only works to rid surface deposits that are left from things like hard water. |
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08-14-2011, 05:40 AM | #5 |
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As an amateur detailer (have a check of my threads in the Aussie section) I can offer this advice:
Wash down the car with a heavy sud wash and let it work in (2 to 3 mins). Wash off. Take a light compound (meguairs ultimate is what I use) and a random orbital. Lightly go over the area using less pressure at each pass but never let the orbital stay stationary. If this doesn't work, try a heavier compound. Meguairs ultimate should do the trick. I've used it on my car to remove some fairly deep scratches and paint damage and it works perfectly with 3 passes. |
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