Intake valve cleaning time.

[Lambobimmer]

I have the intake manifold off and I am ready to clean but I have a few questions.

1. How do you turn the engine? I assume that one would turn the engine with the crank pulley. Is this the easiest way to open and close the valves? Also, what size is the nut?

2. How do you seperate the metal piece that connects to the intake manifold from the plastic wire case?

3. Should I clean the intake manifold since I have it off? What should I use to clean it?

4. I am going to use Redline SI-1 to soak and clean the valves. I bought a gun cleaning kit that contains brass brushes to brush off the carbon. I heard that Redline SI-1 has the highest concentration of PolyEther Amine which is supposed to be great at breaking down the carbon. Are the other cleaners that might be better?

My valves looked pretty dirty but I would say that they are probably average for 28k. Cylinders 1,2 and 3 were cleaner than 4,5 and 6.

[Impervious]

I'm interested to know also!

[Kamal]

Take photos and keep us updated on what happens! I'm certain that I'll be doing this soon.

[Lambobimmer]

Originally Posted by Kamal

Take photos and keep us updated on what happens! I'm certain that I'll be doing this soon.

I attempted to take some pics but I had a very difficult time getting any good ones. I have a Canon SLR but for some reason I wasn't able to get enough light in the valve area.

[Lambobimmer]

Anyone?

[miiipilot]

Not trying to bash at all, since I envy your courage to attempt said maintenance...BUT wouldn't you have a complete game plan going into this?

Good luck,
miiipilot

[Lambobimmer]

Originally Posted by miiipilot

Not trying to bash at all, since I envy your courage to attempt said maintenance...BUT wouldn't you have a complete game plan going into this?

Good luck,
miiipilot

Well, let me say this. I am not a novice at working on cars but this is the first DI turbo car that I have owned so the carbon build up issue is new to me. However, I like to work smart and usually there is always someone that has done what you are trying to so and they can typically save you some time.

Now, I am half way done. I have completed cylinders 1,3 and 5. It is easiest to move the valves by leaving the car in gear and pushing it back and forth. This will allow you to close the valves that you are working on.

This is not rocket science but very time consuming. I am sure that it will be worth is when I am done.

I am just closing the valves and using puring in Redline SI-1 to to soak the valved. Then I am using a gun cleaning kit and microfiber towels to clean the valves and port.

It is actually pretty bad for only 28k.

[cmdboy]

rocking the car back and forth should open the other valves if you have a manual.

[Focusedintntions]

Easiest way to open and close the valves is use a breaker bar into the crank and turn it. Usually you can just insert it w/o needing a socket as there's a square hole there just for that. That's a general rule though that I've seen on about 90% of the cars i've worked on. Never looked at ours though. But that's much easier and safer than rocking the car while it's in gear.

[Lambobimmer]

Done.

This is a very nasty dirty job but also not very difficult. If you have any wrench turning skills you can do this. Mostly unbolting and unpluging a lot of things to get to the valves. If you plan on keeping your car past the HPFP warranty you will need to know how to remove the intake manifold because it sits directly below it.

Make sure that you remove the plastic shield underneath the car before you get started. It is much easier to turn the engine with a 22mm socket on the crank.

Get a good copper and nylon brush set. I used a gun cleaning kit but I wish that I would have had a wider variety of brushes. The valves sit pretty deep and they are very difficult to get to .

Get a good pick set. I used a dental pick but I am sure that something better is out there. I used the so lightly scrape the valves.

You must have compressed air to blow the junk out.

I went thought about 15 microfiber towels. So be prepared and buy a bunch of them before you get started.

I used Redline SI-1 fuel injector cleaner and it worked pretty good. The next time, I will let it sit on the valves overnight.

[Si-M240i]

Originally Posted by lamboworld

I have the intake manifold off and I am ready to clean but I have a few questions.

1. How do you turn the engine? I assume that one would turn the engine with the crank pulley. Is this the easiest way to open and close the valves? Also, what size is the nut?

2. How do you seperate the metal piece that connects to the intake manifold from the plastic wire case?

3. Should I clean the intake manifold since I have it off? What should I use to clean it?

4. I am going to use Redline SI-1 to soak and clean the valves. I bought a gun cleaning kit that contains brass brushes to brush off the carbon. I heard that Redline SI-1 has the highest concentration of PolyEther Amine which is supposed to be great at breaking down the carbon. Are the other cleaners that might be better?

My valves looked pretty dirty but I would say that they are probably average for 28k. Cylinders 1,2 and 3 were cleaner than 4,5 and 6.

Do you have an OCC ?

[Lambobimmer]

Originally Posted by Si-135i

Do you have an OCC ?

No, but I heard that they do not work on our cars because of the design of the PVC system.

However, I would be intersted in doing something that would prevent/prolong this process.

[Si-M240i]

Originally Posted by lamboworld

No, but I heard that they do not work on our cars because of the design of the PVC system.

However, I would be intersted in doing something that would prevent/prolong this process.

Interesting. It must do something as mine does collect oil

[Kamal]

Originally Posted by lamboworld

No, but I heard that they do not work on our cars because of the design of the PVC system.

However, I would be intersted in doing something that would prevent/prolong this process.

My PCV system isn't doing much as my intake pipes and FMIC are full of oil. I've got the AR design OCC on order and it should be here soon. Some people have issues, some don't... if you notice oil seeping out of your intake pipes then you definitely have some issues!

[RPM90]

Originally Posted by Kamal

My PCV system isn't doing much as my intake pipes and FMIC are full of oil. I've got the AR design OCC on order and it should be here soon. Some people have issues, some don't... if you notice oil seeping out of your intake pipes then you definitely have some issues!

This is very common, normal, in turbo engines.
There will always be some oil in there.

If you notice oil seeping out of your intake plumbing, then you need to tighten up the clamps. If oil is getting out, then so is boosted/pressurized air.

At what point in the intake path did you notice oil seeping out?

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by lamboworld

No, but I heard that they do not work on our cars because of the design of the PVC system.

However, I would be intersted in doing something that would prevent/prolong this process.

I really do not think anyone knows the answer to this question about an OCC. Time will tell though.

My buddy sprayed down the valves(he used Seafoam, some use BG products) on his RS4 over a few days time. You really gotta let the carbon soak up as your cleaning agent - in order to soften the carbon enough to use a pick tool.

I know LiquMoly makes an intake tract cleaner... I have used it on my old e36. It comes with a really long tube to get deep into the intake manifold.

http://www.amazon.de/Liqui-Moly-5111...=3GW8AGS1IA178



As for the oil in the intake track... I wouldn't worry about that too much. Every turbo engine will have some blowby and some buildup of oil inside the intake pipes/FMIC.

As for an OCC... have you seen the ProVent one by Mann. ?


Dackel



PS: I can not wait to see your photos!

[Kamal]

Originally Posted by RPM90

This is very common, normal, in turbo engines.
There will always be some oil in there.

If you notice oil seeping out of your intake plumbing, then you need to tighten up the clamps. If oil is getting out, then so is boosted/pressurized air.

At what point in the intake path did you notice oil seeping out?

I was tightening up the steering rack post-DP install (was hearing some clicking when turning) and noticed a ton of oil getting ready to drip out of the intake pipes on the cold side of the IC.

I'll be taking a better look at this in a few days as I've got an HPF FMIC waiting to install and an AR Design OCC. First thing I'll do is check to see how tight the clamps are (or aren't).

[Lambobimmer]

Originally Posted by Dackelone

I really do not think anyone knows the answer to this question about an OCC. Time will tell though.

My buddy sprayed down the valves(he used Seafoam, some use BG products) on his RS4 over a few days time. You really gotta let the carbon soak up as your cleaning agent - in order to soften the carbon enough to use a pick tool.

I know LiquMoly makes an intake tract cleaner... I have used it on my old e36. It comes with a really long tube to get deep into the intake manifold.

http://www.amazon.de/Liqui-Moly-5111...=3GW8AGS1IA178



As for the oil in the intake track... I wouldn't worry about that too much. Every turbo engine will have some blowby and some buildup of oil inside the intake pipes/FMIC.

As for an OCC... have you seen the ProVent one by Mann. ?


Dackel



PS: I can not wait to see your photos!

If I was going to pick up an OCC it would be the Provent 200 OCC. I am considering purchasing one but I just don't know enough about them to spend the $150. I have read too many other threads on this board in which their OCC was completely dry after a certain amount of miles.


I tried to take some pics but I wasn't able to get enough light to bounce off of the valves. Flash would not do it and the flashlight that I was using was pretty poor.

To give you an idea, I probably spent an hour to clean each cylinder.

I poured Redilne Si-1 on the valves and let it sit for about 30 minutes to an hour, then I scrubbed away. I good pick set would have made this job much easier. With the right tools you can do it quicker.

I was able to get 1,3 and 5 and 2,4 and 6 to close at the same time so this made it a little easier.

I really don't want to do this again because it was a PITA but needed. I would say this, if you have more than 30k you probably need to clean your valves. I would not do it if I had to pay someone at 30k but if you have some basic wrench skills it would be worth it.

I also resued the intake manifold gaskets. These gaskets looked brand new with 28k on them.

[Brandon26pdx]

There will always be oil mist in the pipes. Unless you clean everything out carefully and completely bypass the PCV system at the same time (with a catch can vented to atmosphere or whatever) It did this on my old Talon. I does make a difference as the oil mist that collects in the intercooler hurts it's ability to cool. Over time you can lose performance over it.

[TJ bmw135i]

Is this covered with the 4/50 US warranty? I would think this should be part of the regular maintenance given it is 'normal' buildup on a DI motor. Has anyone had this covered?

[Kamal]

Originally Posted by TJ bmw135i

Is this covered with the 4/50 US warranty? I would think this should be part of the regular maintenance given it is 'normal' buildup on a DI motor. Has anyone had this covered?

Not directly, I believe cleaning the intake valve or replacing the top end has been covered under warranty only to those that are having some severe issues that can't be fixed by other means. I believe the decision to perform such a service is at the discretion of BMW NA, and not the dealership.

[JB135MDCT]

Originally Posted by lamboworld

If I was going to pick up an OCC it would be the Provent 200 OCC. I am considering purchasing one but I just don't know enough about them to spend the $150. I have read too many other threads on this board in which their OCC was completely dry after a certain amount of miles.


I tried to take some pics but I wasn't able to get enough light to bounce off of the valves. Flash would not do it and the flashlight that I was using was pretty poor.

To give you an idea, I probably spent an hour to clean each cylinder.

I poured Redilne Si-1 on the valves and let it sit for about 30 minutes to an hour, then I scrubbed away. I good pick set would have made this job much easier. With the right tools you can do it quicker.

I was able to get 1,3 and 5 and 2,4 and 6 to close at the same time so this made it a little easier.

I really don't want to do this again because it was a PITA but needed. I would say this, if you have more than 30k you probably need to clean your valves. I would not do it if I had to pay someone at 30k but if you have some basic wrench skills it would be worth it.

I also resued the intake manifold gaskets. These gaskets looked brand new with 28k on them.

The last time I did a head job, i used a shop vac with a plug and 1/4 or 3/8 tubing. FI safe Carburator cleaner from walmart destroyed the carbon build up and a lot cheaper than sea foam.