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      06-27-2011, 08:07 PM   #1
gotgemini2000
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E90 330i to 135i?

Hello,

My E90 330i has just 85K miles and has been having electrical problems to the point that it may warrant replacement. There are zero mods to the car other than a Valentine V1 hardwire and the battery melted into the trunk the other day and was smoking.

My younger brother has an E90 335i with the N54 engine, and the car is absolutely brilliant, however, I am very wary of the engine issues (HPFP) etc. So, my question is, should I try to get an E90 335i with the N54, or do you think it might be a better idea to go for the N55 135i? (I believe that the 335i with the N55 stays well above 40K which is more or less out of my price range).

If I were to get a N55 135i, is it only the 2011 model year?

Thank so much.

- Charlie
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      06-27-2011, 08:11 PM   #2
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The battery melted into the trunk!? WTF
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      06-27-2011, 08:20 PM   #3
gotgemini2000
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Yeah, I opened the trunk and the battery was smoking and melting.

It's a really weird problem. I had taken my car to a mechanic the previous week as the left headlight and turn signals had failed, and he determined that the wiring harness had melted, so 1300 dollars later of work, the battery suddenly melts and according to the dealer it is 900 dollars for a new battery harness.

This is leading me to thinking that perhaps I should look for a low mileage 2010 135i, or a 2011 135i. Is the 2011 135i the only one with the new N55 engine?
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      06-27-2011, 08:25 PM   #4
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No, I would get the problem fixed. I really think the mechanic you went to didn't really diagnose the problem. Find a place the specializes in electrics. The dealer should do it, but it will be $$.
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      06-27-2011, 08:48 PM   #5
gotgemini2000
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Perhaps you are right. My fear, however, is that the car will become even more expensive than it already is ($2200 in two weeks and that 2200 number seems likely to go up tomorrow when the BMW dealer moves on to diagnose other issues). I also have only one vehicle (other than family vehicles which are a 2.5 hour drive away) so the expense and time of dealing with repairs is really a pain.
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      06-27-2011, 10:45 PM   #6
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Just my $.02 but if the issue is electrical and the only mod is the hardwired V1, I would remove that first. It sounds to me that there is an exposed wire somewhere. The car would have to fixed if you were to sell/trade it anyway. The 330 is an excellent car, personal favorite next to the M3 of course. Good luck with the prognosis.
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      06-28-2011, 06:32 AM   #7
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I removed the hardwired V1 about a week before the melted battery issue occurred. I agree that the 330i is a great car and I am definitely getting it fixed. My fear is that the car is becoming unreliable and will continue to have similar problems.
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      06-28-2011, 07:26 AM   #8
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Get a CPO'd 135 or a new one. I know on my 09 135 Vert, I believe they are warranting the HPFP for 100,000 miles or something like that. You can have issues with any vehicle, but never heard of a melting battery.
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      06-28-2011, 09:09 AM   #9
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N55 is 2011 and 2010. The big difference going from a 3 to a 1 series is the small back seat. If one can live with that, it's a go. Otherwise, look for a used 3.
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      06-28-2011, 05:35 PM   #10
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Actually 2008-2010 has the n54 while the 2011+ have the new n55.
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      06-29-2011, 09:33 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diver View Post
N55 is 2011 and 2010. The big difference going from a 3 to a 1 series is the small back seat. If one can live with that, it's a go. Otherwise, look for a used 3.
Oddly enough, I found that there was more headroom in the 135, though. I'm 6'5" and have can't drive small sports cars like the s2000, Miata, Cayman S, ect.

Figured I might have to get an e90 due to this fact, but when I drove them back to back I found that I was more comfortable in the 1.
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      06-29-2011, 09:59 AM   #12
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2010 135i Coupe  [5.26]
Yeah, the back seat in the 1er has more headroom than a 3er due to the more conventional roof line.
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      06-29-2011, 10:14 AM   #13
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Dont change car because of a battery only. But generally euro cars starting 4-5 year are starting to give problems. Not engine wise, not tranny but peeling interior, suspension, electrical
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      06-29-2011, 11:02 AM   #14
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I think I would go to your nearest dealer and strike up a sweet deal on a CPO n54. 135i or e90/e92. What ever you find pulls at your heart strings most. There are some really great deals on used cars right now. Just make sure the car has had the latest HPFP and injector recall. And also make sure the tires are in good shape.


Sounds like your car is about to cost you alot more moeny soon. IF it doesn't catch on fire or melt your battery again.
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      06-29-2011, 02:53 PM   #15
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The dealer seemed to think that the problem was just related to a slightly corroded connection which perhaps makes sense. The car has only 85K miles on it and is a great car but if it is unreliable it is a huge problem.

What are the chances of getting a decent N55 engined 135i with M-sport and 6spd manual for less than 33K?

Additionally, I am going to business school in a year, and wonder if the size of the 1 coupe is completely ridiculous if I ever had more than 1 passenger? I guess I need to test drive one to figure this out.
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      06-29-2011, 03:19 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gotgemini2000 View Post
The dealer seemed to think that the problem was just related to a slightly corroded connection which perhaps makes sense. The car has only 85K miles on it and is a great car but if it is unreliable it is a huge problem.

What are the chances of getting a decent N55 engined 135i with M-sport and 6spd manual for less than 33K?

Additionally, I am going to business school in a year, and wonder if the size of the 1 coupe is completely ridiculous if I ever had more than 1 passenger? I guess I need to test drive one to figure this out.
85K is a lot IMO on a modern euro. Im sure the engine will go for a long time. But the rest......... Id say keep it and if down the line if gives to much problems change it. It wont break down like that. Might have to change shocks, alternator, rad etc in a near future but beside that it should be fine.
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Originally Posted by corneredbeast
An engine from a Z06 Corvette. A differential from a Vespa. Damn

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Originally Posted by Severious View Post
Its because a lot of BMW owners are housewives or business professionals and know little about cars other than BMW's are a status symbol in their own circles so that have to have one. But exotic car owners know cars, that's why they are willing to spend for a killer car and they know something different when they see one.
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      06-29-2011, 03:35 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gotgemini2000 View Post
The dealer seemed to think that the problem was just related to a slightly corroded connection which perhaps makes sense. The car has only 85K miles on it and is a great car but if it is unreliable it is a huge problem.

What are the chances of getting a decent N55 engined 135i with M-sport and 6spd manual for less than 33K?

Additionally, I am going to business school in a year, and wonder if the size of the 1 coupe is completely ridiculous if I ever had more than 1 passenger? I guess I need to test drive one to figure this out.
I have driven the car with myself and three other adults and there were no complaints about comfort at all.
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      06-29-2011, 03:51 PM   #18
gotgemini2000
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Can anyone here comment as to the difference in terms of suspension setup for the 135i relative to an E90 330i? I read in all of these reviews that the car understeers; is this noticeable?

Additionally, how is the car in the snow (with snow tires)? My 330i is great in the snow with snow tires although the open diff is a real pain if I slow down at all. Does the 135i e-diff (braking the wheel that is spinning) work well in the snow?
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      06-29-2011, 05:01 PM   #19
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It's only noticeable on the car if you really push it. For everyday driving you won't see it. The car in the snow with snow tires if fantastic and works great. The ediff does fine and much better than an open diff in the snow.
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