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      06-06-2016, 07:05 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RetroGrade View Post
Bad Camshaft & Crankshaft position sensors are known to exhibit these behaviors. Not sure if prevalent on BMWs though.

Keep us posted.
Good call. Camshaft position sensor sounds like a likely candidate! Here are the codes.

Stored Codes

P054B
Cold Start "B" Camshaft Position Timing Over Retarded Bank 1

P052B
Cold Start "A" Camshaft Position Timing Over Retarded Bank 1

P0300
Random Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected

P0301
Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected

P0303
Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected

P0304
Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected

P0305
Cylinder 5 Misfire Detected

P0306
Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected

Pending
P05CC
P0302

Permanent
P054B
P052B


So next question (assuming its just the camshaft pos sensor) is this a DIY project or does my mechanic need to jump in here.
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      06-06-2016, 07:48 PM   #46
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Have you checked the connectors to the sensors? something pop them loose?
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      06-06-2016, 08:49 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommyb13662 View Post
Have you checked the connectors to the sensors? something pop them loose?
A good point. Will check when I get home.

I'll check realoem for the location unless someone has that handy.

Also I was reading that there was a VANOS recall on our 2011+ N55 cars. Could this be related to the Vanos selenoid or that bolt shearing issue?
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      06-07-2016, 02:15 PM   #48
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I was reading the N55 fault codes (here) and I'm now thinking its actually the VANOS solenoid valve.

P054B

Potential problem source(s):- Contaminated oil passage at VANOS solenoid valve- Oil pressure too low- Defective wires or plug terminals on VANOS solenoid valve- VANOS solenoid valve seized. Vanos Solenoid Valve the camshaft cannot be adjusted to specified position.
The diagnostic fault code is logged when the fault remains present for longer than 1 min.

- Check oil level, change engine oil and filter as indicated- If faults related to the camshaft position sensor have been logged, repair these first- Check wiring harness between VANOS solenoid valve and DME- Perform system test - Check camshaft and VANOS unit for freedom of movement and mechanical damage -Clean VANOS solenoid valve, replace as required


This guy here was experiencing the same codes after his serpentine belt broke, and my belt is making squeaking noises.

The only difference is that I'm getting both P054B and P052B (he was only getting 1 at a time).
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      06-07-2016, 03:38 PM   #49
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OR could it be this: http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/acms/cs...V176-8618P.pdf

I have an appointment with my mechanic tomorrow to take a look.

Any insights or hints to help me (and my mechanic) along would be great.
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      06-07-2016, 09:27 PM   #50
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I would take the oil filter cap off, check to make sure the stem portion of the cap is there, and make sure the green o-ring is still on the end of the stem and in good condition... if not it will cause low oil pressure and vanos problems.
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      06-08-2016, 02:47 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gizmo135i View Post
I would take the oil filter cap off, check to make sure the stem portion of the cap is there, and make sure the green o-ring is still on the end of the stem and in good condition... if not it will cause low oil pressure and vanos problems.
Confirmed, also got ambitious this morning and decided to do a little DIY by cleaning the VANOS solenoids. I'm going to go ahead and install new camshaft sensors also since they are very cheap. Got the VANOS solenoids out with a bit of difficulty (they were stuck pretty tight), but scratching my head on how to get the camshaft sensors out, they are at a weird angle. Open to suggestions.

Got some pictures while working on it this afternoon.

Oil filter.. this is NEW oil, already looks dirty


Lower solenoid and housing




Upper solenoid and housing


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      06-08-2016, 06:19 PM   #52
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Ok, just got back from reinstalling the vanos solenoids after cleaning them. After clearing the SES codes and starting the engine.... the limp mode and rough idle came back within 2 mins.

Now here is where it got a bit interesting (or confusing).

Like I mentioned earlier there is a loud squeak near the alternator. I have ignored that since it should be an easy fix, but now I'm thinking the SES codes and the noise are likely directly related.

I sprayed WD40 on the rusty pulley where I think the noise is coming from, and the noise stopped and the engine began to idle smoother. I turned off the engine, cleared the codes again, and doused most of the pulleys with WD40 and there engine is much smoother. And no codes have been popped after 10 minutes of running.

If you watch this video it shows an interesting slow motion view of the belt struggling and "slapping" due to the resistance of one of the pulleys (i think). Skip ahead to 3:20 to see what I mean.



Can a seizing pulley or slipping belt cause the P052B/P054B codes? I guess if the oil flow is affected right?
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      06-09-2016, 02:56 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rezilient View Post
Ok, just got back from reinstalling the vanos solenoids after cleaning them. After clearing the SES codes and starting the engine.... the limp mode and rough idle came back within 2 mins.

Now here is where it got a bit interesting (or confusing).

Like I mentioned earlier there is a loud squeak near the alternator. I have ignored that since it should be an easy fix, but now I'm thinking the SES codes and the noise are likely directly related.

I sprayed WD40 on the rusty pulley where I think the noise is coming from, and the noise stopped and the engine began to idle smoother. I turned off the engine, cleared the codes again, and doused most of the pulleys with WD40 and there engine is much smoother. And no codes have been popped after 10 minutes of running.

If you watch this video it shows an interesting slow motion view of the belt struggling and "slapping" due to the resistance of one of the pulleys (i think). Skip ahead to 3:20 to see what I mean.


Can a seizing pulley or slipping belt cause the P052B/P054B codes? I guess if the oil flow is affected right?
Dude your belt is split. Watch the video again, I slowed it down even further using the YouTube interface (to .25 speed) and caught the attached pic. I highlighted the split section on the top in red and the blue line shows the path the rest of the belt is following.

If I were you I'd take the belt off, check it and check ALL of your pulleys, especially the tension pulley. Then go from there.

EDIT: Also make sure you take a pic of the belt path before you take it off. This might seem like a super noob thing to do but finding the right pattern online is annoying if you don't know it by heart.
Attached Images
 
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      06-09-2016, 03:03 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matticus91 View Post
Dude your belt is split. Watch the video again, I slowed it down even further using the YouTube interface (to .25 speed) and caught the attached pic. I highlighted the split section on the top in red and the blue line shows the path the rest of the belt is following.

If I were you I'd take the belt off, check it and check ALL of your pulleys, especially the tension pulley. Then go from there.

EDIT: Also make sure you take a pic of the belt path before you take it off. This might seem like a super noob thing to do but finding the right pattern online is annoying if you don't know it by heart.
Awesome, thanks for catching that! I knew I saw "something" at 3:20's in the video but lack of experience didn't catch that it was actually split!

So I'm going to go ahead and replace the belt, tensioner, and idler pulleys.

Here is what I'm ordering:

Serpentine Belt: 11287628653
Belt Tensioner: 11287582946
Idler pulley right: 11287578674
Idler pulley left: 11287578675

Question: Should I also get the Power Steering Pulley (32427582947) since it's only $35.

Anything else I should consider doing?
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      06-09-2016, 03:29 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rezilient View Post
Awesome, thanks for catching that! I knew I saw "something" at 3:20's in the video but lack of experience didn't catch that it was actually split!

So I'm going to go ahead and replace the belt, tensioner, and idler pulleys.

Here is what I'm ordering:

Serpentine Belt: 11287628653
Belt Tensioner: 11287582946
Idler pulley right: 11287578674
Idler pulley left: 11287578675

Question: Should I also get the Power Steering Pulley (32427582947) since it's only $35.

Anything else I should consider doing?
Way I look at it is you're already in there and doing the work, so do it all and do it once. You may as well also do a tune up; spark plugs, etc. since you're not really sure what the condition of the engine is yet.

One thing to check carefully is the oil filter housing gasket and make sure it's not leaking onto the pulleys. That could be causing this issue.
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      06-09-2016, 05:45 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matticus91 View Post
Way I look at it is you're already in there and doing the work, so do it all and do it once. You may as well also do a tune up; spark plugs, etc. since you're not really sure what the condition of the engine is yet.

One thing to check carefully is the oil filter housing gasket and make sure it's not leaking onto the pulleys. That could be causing this issue.
I think I know why the belt split. Question is how does a pulley crack in half???







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      06-09-2016, 06:46 PM   #57
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Interesting SIB (N54 engine, but still interesting)...

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...Part1ofSIB.jpg

Under extreme conditions.. engine movement can result in the serpentine belt or power steering pump pulley contacting the front engine carrier. If this occurs the belt and/or pump pulley could be damaged.
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      06-09-2016, 07:33 PM   #58
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Looks like some oil leaks too, filter housing? Did replacing the pulley and belt get it out of limp mode and clear up the codes?


Last edited by Mr Gasser; 06-09-2016 at 07:38 PM..
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      06-10-2016, 12:07 AM   #59
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Serious oil leakage there; almost certainly oil filter housing and/or oil cooler control block. This can foul the belt as well, so you should take care of that now...

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      06-10-2016, 12:13 AM   #60
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I don't think its the oil filter housing, its dry in that area. I think it is lower and more difficult to isolate. Where is the oil cooler control block? Are those the metal lines going through the radiator?
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      06-10-2016, 12:42 AM   #61
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It seems to be mostly on the driver side near the ac pump, below the alternator.







Not sure how to isolate aside from clean it up thoroughly and then wait for it to leak again with fresh oil.
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      06-10-2016, 09:29 AM   #62
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The chances of this being the OFHG are like 99/100. And, honestly, even if it's not you should still change it while you're doing all this work. You're planning to track prep this car right? Do all this now and you'll be much better off!

And while you're in there definitely thoroughly clean everything, brake cleaner works well but maybe do an actual engine degreaser and really get in there. This way you will be able to tell if you missed any other leaks.
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      06-16-2016, 02:27 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Gasser View Post
Looks like some oil leaks too, filter housing? Did replacing the pulley and belt get it out of limp mode and clear up the codes?
Unfortunately replacing the pulleys, tensioner, and belt didn't fix the limp mode and codes. Sounds a lot nicer though. Still getting these along with limp mode after 2 minutes (also tried clearing codes twice, still comes back).

P054B
Cold Start "B" Camshaft Position Timing Over Retarded Bank 1

P052B
Cold Start "A" Camshaft Position Timing Over Retarded Bank 1

As mentioned earlier I already tried cleaning the VANOS solenoids, and they look clean.

What next?
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      06-16-2016, 02:40 PM   #64
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Could it just be that the VANOS solenoids themselves are shot and need replacing?

Dunno, just a guess, but if you could wangle some for testing...

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      06-17-2016, 10:01 AM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ianc
Could it just be that the VANOS solenoids themselves are shot and need replacing?

Dunno, just a guess, but if you could wangle some for testing...

ianc
Going to try replacing both vanos solenoids today. Hopefully that is the fix.
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      06-23-2016, 04:42 PM   #66
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Fix the oil leak and replace the camshaft sensor, I think the oil may have messed it up. I heard you can swap the vanos around.
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