Terrible suspension non RF

[heist_tub]

Okay so I know that the ride quality is worse with non run flats but holy hell it is awful! I have put up with it for 3-4 months now and just want a better ride quality. I have m sport suspension with 45k miles sitting on alufelgen 19's wrapped in PSS'. I do rub on the inner plastic in the rears, I'm assuming that would only be fixed with different tires or camber. But I am looking to stay close to stock height.

So my question is do coilovers adjust to stock height or will they always be lower even at the highest setting? I just don't want to get into fender rolling And what not. So ideally stock height is best with maybe a little camber to get rid of the rubbing on bumps and dips.

Thanks

[Ultimateone]

Your ride quality probably sucks because you're running 19's. What are your tire sizes?

[Pig Farmer]

You can definitely find coilovers which will allow you to run stock height. That being said, start with adding the E92 M3 FSB and RSFBs. The front swaybar will help with turn-in feel, and the RSFBs will make the rear (and front for that matter) more predictable. The 135i RSFBs are so soft, I wouldn't even consider coilovers until you get them replaced. They will always be the weak link in the suspension, and a firmer spring/damper setup will just cause the RSFBs to flex even more.

[ShocknAwe]

Originally Posted by Ultimateone

Your ride quality probably sucks because you're running 19's. What are your tire sizes?

I'm on 19s with stiff sidewalled tires and my ride quality is amazing. Its not the wheels.

[John_01]

Smaller rims will always be more comfortable if you drive on bad roads. The Michelin PSS is a fairly comfortable tire IMO. On that basis it should feel softer on +1 size rims than the standard 18" RFT "tires". If you are used to other really soft sidewall tires on 17 or 18 rims, then the 19" PSS will probably feel firm. It depends what your reference point is.

The 1 series M-sport suspension isn't really known for being harsh, I would say its more soft and floaty. Any harshness is more likely caused by the tires.

[heist_tub]

Thanks for the input guys, that was really quick on the responses lol. I know that 19's won't be the most comfortable ride, but feel like it shouldn't be that big of a difference. I am running 255/30 rears and 225/35 fronts.

It definitely feels floaty and soft at higher speeds, but my main complain is low speed i feel everything on the road and find myself bouncing around all over inside the car. I was thinking maybe a stiffer suspension set up might ease that, or is that in the wrong direction?

[chris82]

Originally Posted by ShocknAwe

I'm on 19s with stiff sidewalled tires and my ride quality is amazing. Its not the wheels.

Originally Posted by heist_tub

Thanks for the input guys, that was really quick on the responses lol. I know that 19's won't be the most comfortable ride, but feel like it shouldn't be that big of a difference. I am running 255/30 rears and 225/35 fronts.

It definitely feels floaty and soft at higher speeds, but my main complain is low speed i feel everything on the road and find myself bouncing around all over inside the car. I was thinking maybe a stiffer suspension set up might ease that, or is that in the wrong direction?

It can't be the wheel size, I've been in a 1 with 19s and PSS and the ride was fine. Maybe your shocks are bad?

[swagon]

It's the crappy shocks mainly. I've ditched the factory run-flats to non-RFT Dunlops while maintaining the stock M Sport suspension and wheels and yes, it's gotten better in terms of comfort compared to what I had to suffer before but it is still crappy, harsh, bumpy ride. My 135 has got about 20k miles.

KW Street Comfort, Öhlins and maybe TCK are coilovers that can be set at the stock ride height.

[Crazycarl]

Originally Posted by John_01

Smaller rims will always be more comfortable if you drive on bad roads. The Michelin PSS is a fairly comfortable tire IMO. On that basis it should feel softer on +1 size rims than the standard 18" RFT "tires". If you are used to other really soft sidewall tires on 17 or 18 rims, then the 19" PSS will probably feel firm. It depends what your reference point is.

The 1 series M-sport suspension isn't really known for being harsh, I would say its more soft and floaty. Any harshness is more likely caused by the tires.

Definitely agree. I switched the RFTs for PSS and harsh bumps softened up quite a bit. The overall stability and grip feel better, but there are way less jarring bumps.

The tires are what soak up the majority of bumps, and larger rims/smaller sidewall will absolutely make the ride feel stiffer. Doesn't mean horrible, but stiffer.

[Freon]

Originally Posted by heist_tub

Okay so I know that the ride quality is worse with non run flats

Wat.

I would've said the exact opposite. Steering is slightly more numb even with a performance tire with a stiff sidewall, but I'd say ride quality (NVH) drastically improved moving away from RFTs.

However, adjusting for the feel difference I think the car steers much better. It takes a bit more initial turn in to get the feedback since there's slightly more slop with the softer tires.

Are your tires stretched on the wheels? That could contribute. It seems common on this forum stretch 225 on something like a 9" or wider wheel...

[Crazycarl]

Originally Posted by Freon

Wat.

I would've said the exact opposite. Steering is slightly more numb even with a performance tire with a stiff sidewall, but I'd say ride quality (NVH) drastically improved moving away from RFTs.

However, adjusting for the feel difference I think the car steers much better. It takes a bit more initial turn in to get the feedback since there's slightly more slop with the softer tires.

Are your tires stretched on the wheels? That could contribute. It seems common on this forum stretch 225 on something like a 9" or wider wheel...

Yeah, I had the opposite experience as well. RFTs made a horrible ride. The PSS have a great direct steering feel. Read reviews from Tirerack, they praise the PSS's steering feel.

Also, RFTs track grooves more than anything I've ever seen. Mine felt dangerous on bad highways as they would jump left/right constantly.

[heist_tub]

haha sorry about that sentence structure, just meant that i know the suspension we have is "floaty" and "soft" when you switch out of RFT's. Which is what I kinda meant as "worse". The tires don't seem to be stretched, and if they are its minimal. I guess only way to try a solution is pull the trigger on some coils and suspension tad bits and see the difference.

This just really was made obvious to me when I drove my Toyota Celica (2000) around the same roads I usually take in the 1 series and it felt like such a smoother ride. I was shocked that a car 9 years older felt better.

and don't get me wrong I really like my PSS, they are awesome tires. What I complain about is the car just being bumpy as heck haha

[Crazycarl]

I know exactly what you mean. I had a 2000 Celica GTS and that car was light and planted. The 1 series has a lot of grip but totally jumps around on bumpy roads.

Do some more research, most people say replacing the subframe bushings and shocks transform the car.

With the Celica I had a ton of body roll even after putting on stiffer shocks and springs. Once I put on a beefy front sway bar it turned into a brick. ZERO body roll. I wonder if the 1 series is the same?

[SixBanger]

Originally Posted by heist_tub

Okay so I know that the ride quality is worse with non run flats but holy hell it is awful! I have put up with it for 3-4 months now and just want a better ride quality. I have m sport suspension with 45k miles sitting on alufelgen 19's wrapped in PSS'. I do rub on the inner plastic in the rears, I'm assuming that would only be fixed with different tires or camber. But I am looking to stay close to stock height.

So my question is do coilovers adjust to stock height or will they always be lower even at the highest setting? I just don't want to get into fender rolling And what not. So ideally stock height is best with maybe a little camber to get rid of the rubbing on bumps and dips.

Thanks

So what'd you end up doing? I'm in the same boat and on Monday I'm bringing it in to a shop that only tracks cars.
Here's my dilemma:
I drive an 08 135i 6 speed manual. The following is everything that has been updated to the vehicle in year time frame, suspension wise. The car rides like it's floating, steering has some slack in it. Meaning, when I'm cruising down the street, I can move the steering wheel an inch, left and right, and the car wont move at all. It's like there's a gap in steering. Today I pulled out of a plaza and got on it, and the rear end bounced a couple times before it was able to catch traction, with traction on. When entering and exiting I95 ramps and making hard turns the car sways too much.
Back in April, when I had struts and springs installed by a suspension shop. For a few months, whenever I drove over a bump or pot hole in the road the rear end would make a slamming noise. Took a couple visits for the shop to get it right, but they said I needed my bushings trimmed and shims replaced. The owner of the suspension shop was really Cantakerous. Eversince, the car has driven like shit and continues to get worse. There's this one suspension shop in Miami that has a great reputation, but before I make an appointment I'd like some feedback first as to what to do.
2013 M3 rear subframe bushings
2013 M3 front sway bar
2014 M3 front lower control arms
2016 Dinan Koni adjustable struts and Swift springs.
2016 M3 front tension arms
Stock 18 inch wheels and Michelin PSS stock size.

[overklok]

You should replace all of the control arms, front and rear with the aluminium M3 suspension parts. They are lighter and more robust than the stock stamped steel setup. I went with the BMW Performance suspension and the M3 front and rear control arms. It makes a big difference, much better in the turns.

[SixBanger]

Originally Posted by overklok

You should replace all of the control arms, front and rear with the aluminium M3 suspension parts. They are lighter and more robust than the stock stamped steel setup. I went with the BMW Performance suspension and the M3 front and rear control arms. It makes a big difference, much better in the turns.

I thought M3 parts were M3 parts, wait, so you're telling me there's another version of M suspension bits and pieces?

[John_01]

I know you referenced it as "The following" in your post, but it probably not clear enough for everyone to catch on.

[lowbudgethero]

Originally Posted by SixBanger

So what'd you end up doing? I'm in the same boat and on Monday I'm bringing it in to a shop that only tracks cars.
Here's my dilemma:
I drive an 08 135i 6 speed manual. The following is everything that has been updated to the vehicle in year time frame, suspension wise. The car rides like it's floating, steering has some slack in it. Meaning, when I'm cruising down the street, I can move the steering wheel an inch, left and right, and the car wont move at all. It's like there's a gap in steering. Today I pulled out of a plaza and got on it, and the rear end bounced a couple times before it was able to catch traction, with traction on. When entering and exiting I95 ramps and making hard turns the car sways too much.
Back in April, when I had struts and springs installed by a suspension shop. For a few months, whenever I drove over a bump or pot hole in the road the rear end would make a slamming noise. Took a couple visits for the shop to get it right, but they said I needed my bushings trimmed and shims replaced. The owner of the suspension shop was really Cantakerous. Eversince, the car has driven like shit and continues to get worse. There's this one suspension shop in Miami that has a great reputation, but before I make an appointment I'd like some feedback first as to what to do.
2013 M3 rear subframe bushings
2013 M3 front sway bar
2014 M3 front lower control arms
2016 Dinan Koni adjustable struts and Swift springs.
2016 M3 front tension arms
Stock 18 inch wheels and Michelin PSS stock size.

your shocks are probably toast, mine were done by 40K miles

[SixBanger]

Originally Posted by lowbudgethero

your shocks are probably toast, mine were done by 40K miles

New struts were installed in April of 2016.

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by heist_tub

Okay so I know that the ride quality is worse with non run flats but holy hell it is awful! I have put up with it for 3-4 months now and just want a better ride quality. I have m sport suspension with 45k miles sitting on alufelgen 19's wrapped in PSS'. I do rub on the inner plastic in the rears, I'm assuming that would only be fixed with different tires or camber. But I am looking to stay close to stock height.

So my question is do coilovers adjust to stock height or will they always be lower even at the highest setting? I just don't want to get into fender rolling And what not. So ideally stock height is best with maybe a little camber to get rid of the rubbing on bumps and dips.

Thanks

Yes, some coilovers do. TCKline Racing single or doubles or Ohlins R&T all adjust to stock height. In addition, on softer setting you will have a better ride than the stock suspension due to the much higher precision and quality dampers.