Cross Coilover Initial Review

[m3bs]

Originally Posted by Clap135

Its not the camber plates, the front shock travel is less than stock so it bottoms out over bigger holes. No way around this.

I did experience some bottoming when the front shocks were set full soft. It is seldom an issue when set mid-range or higher. I set mine at click #6 of 15 for daily driving.

[Clap135]

im at 10f 5r

[rodi]

Originally Posted by Clap135

im at 10f 5r

and you're bottoming out?

[m3bs]

Originally Posted by rodi

and you're bottoming out?

Must be curb-hopping. On run-flats.

[Clap135]

there is a loug thud from the front, whatever side hits, when i go over big holes. On the stock suspension, this didnt happen. So my theory is that the travel on these is less than stock

[m3bs]

Originally Posted by Clap135

there is a loug thud from the front, whatever side hits, when i go over big holes. On the stock suspension, this didnt happen. So my theory is that the travel on these is less than stock

PM on the way. Sounds like you may have a setup/installation issue.

[Clap135]

It is not a setup installation issue. I have the little flimsy spacers, on top of the camber plates installed. the height is adjusted via the body, not the spring perch. My spring is compressed more to give more preload to help assist with bottoming out by giving the maximum amount of compression travel available. My was slammed, and stock height, it makes no difference. It is back to being pretty low. Setting 1-15 make a difference obviously, however I dont want to ride around on full stuff for various reasons.

Ive contacted vivid and cross, trust me this is not an installation error. I was pretty much told it is expected over bigger potholes, happens I live in the nyc area so its pretty much as bad as it gets. IMO the front needs more travel and a stiffer srping rate rate to resolve this problem. Some thing like 12-13k front should do it.

[m3bs]

Glad I don't have your roads!

[m3bs]

Finally got the car on track with the new suspension. Update here:

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?p=5849329

[vividracing]

The clock noise that you hear when you hit a hard bump can also be the strut top monoball loose or even the bolts that go through the chassis to mount the coilovers maybe be to long on the head side and hitting the upper spring seat. That was a small issue for a second on some Porsche kits we did.

Just an FYI, if you want to go with stiffer spring rates, they are available for purchase through JIC. I believe they are 62mm ID and I need to find out the lengths. The sound you are describing is not bottoming out as I have heard it on my car too. Remember if you go to stiff of a spring rate, and are not running R compound tires on the track, then you will not have proper balance. I think we should look at this further as a group.

[Victory Road]

Clap135...can you please do me a favor?

move the dust boot out of the way. take a ziptie and wrap it around the damper shaft and place it at the bottom of the shaft body, tight enough where it will stay in place but loose enough where it will slide. Now go do your normal driving where you would normally see it "bottom out". go back home and check the position of the ziptie. If the ziptie is pressed up against the bump stop than you are in fact bottoming out. If the ziptie is located somewhere in the middle of the shock body than bottoming out is not the problem.

I am somewhat of a suspension nerd and coilovers can make all sorts of noises that are not present on stock suspension setup. The upper pillow ball mounts transmit A LOT more noise than the stock rubber bushings.

Not saying your incorrect about bottoming out. I would just like to know as I have a personal interest in these coilovers.

Thank you!

[vividracing]

Good idea Frank....

[m3bs]

I was planning to try that on mine this weekend.

[Clap135]

Havnt tried the zip tie trick, however if the suspension is fine then all of a studden you hit a crack (say you hight a slightly raised concrete bridge on a asphalt highway at 60) the front bangs hard, while the rear just takes it fine.

However I put on my snow tires, the front is now a 225/40 non runflat and i have yet to hear the car bottom out where it would normally bottom out. Im guessing the softer/taller tire takes the initial hit better?

[m3bs]

Gotta get rid of my RFTs.

[Victory Road]

Originally Posted by Clap135

Havnt tried the zip tie trick, however if the suspension is fine then all of a studden you hit a crack (say you hight a slightly raised concrete bridge on a asphalt highway at 60) the front bangs hard, while the rear just takes it fine.

However I put on my snow tires, the front is now a 225/40 non runflat and i have yet to hear the car bottom out where it would normally bottom out. Im guessing the softer/taller tire takes the initial hit better?

This further makes me question whether you are actually bottoming out. I suspect that the noise you are hearing, and mistaking for bottoming out, is the impact sound traveling through a solid metal bushing, instead of the oem rubber bushing. Now that you put the taller sidewall tires on, the impact is less harsh and thus less sound is being created and transmitted to the cabin.

The rear creating less sound can be due to two reasons and is very common in my experience. The rear suspension, on this particular model looks to have rubber isolators on both the spring and shock that will absorb a lot of the noise. Also, the rear suspension has more rubber bushings throughout that are indirectly connected with the spring and shock, than the front. In the front suspension that camber plate is placed in direct metal to metal contact at the strut tower, which than transmits the sound directly to the cabin. In the rear suspension the entire spring and shock assembly is supported by the rear subframe...which is connected to the unibody not directly, but rather through rubber bushings. Furthermore, the suspension arms that the spring and shock are connected to are attached to the subframe through rubber bushings.

[Clap135]

Ive thought about this for some time now, but ruled it out due to fact of how violent it is. It is not just a noise, this is felt through the car and gets better the stiffer i got on the shocks and the more preload I run, however it does not go away, just gets better. I will try the zip tie test this weekend, however im 99 percent sure the springs are not stiff enough for the amount of travel the front of these coilovers have.

[vividracing]

The 1 step stiffer spring rate is available, I will be more then happy to send you one so you can prove whether or not your suspension is bottoming out. Of course that will be determined of actions on other threads.

[Clap135]

Originally Posted by vividracing

The 1 step stiffer spring rate is available, I will be more then happy to send you one so you can prove whether or not your suspension is bottoming out. Of course that will be determined of actions on other threads.

Simply put, no thx.
I rather finish my posts and spread how you treated me. Plus im in the middle of typing up the BBB complaint. Don't want to lose the time i put into that already.

[vividracing]

Everyone here is trying to help your "situation" and it appears your car is not bottoming out.

If any other JIC Cross user would like to get stiffer or softer springs, they are available and I have no problem passing on dealer cost to you to help fine tune your suspension for your driving needs.

[Clap135]

please watch that before you blame ride height for my issues

I am not the only one with this problem. Not everyone lives on glass roads. Hell even the OP has experienced bottoming out.

[vividracing]

Nobody is blaming anything. In fact, we have all made suggestions. And you need to compare apples to apples. That is a video on Skunk2.