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      10-11-2013, 10:39 PM   #221
flinchy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSt|G View Post
I have everything from headers to double adjustable coilovers. If you are looking for unmodified you are barking up the wrong tree. It's a pretty safe bet I have the most modified 128i in the world period.
Haha, i know, i did remember you were quite modified

should put in a 3.85 M3 rear end too
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      10-11-2013, 11:45 PM   #222
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flinchy View Post
Haha, i know, i did remember you were quite modified

should put in a 3.85 M3 rear end too
Limited slip is on the game plan. I would stick with the stock 3.23. I've never found faster gearing anything but worse. Probably will just stick with a Quaife.
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      10-12-2013, 01:12 AM   #223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSt|G
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Originally Posted by flinchy View Post
Haha, i know, i did remember you were quite modified

should put in a 3.85 M3 rear end too
Limited slip is on the game plan. I would stick with the stock 3.23. I've never found faster gearing anything but worse. Probably will just stick with a Quaife.
3.23? 128i manuals are 3.23? Wow that must suck!.. Such long gearing for the power and revs

Manual 130's are 3.46, It would be craaazy fun with 3.85.. I'd imagine it'd be pretty fun to drift in with 3.85 LSD .. Even the 135 feels a little slow untuned with 3.08

.. I'll sell you my 3.46 for cheap if you change your mind? Haha
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      10-12-2013, 08:23 AM   #224
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flinchy View Post
3.23? 128i manuals are 3.23? Wow that must suck!.. Such long gearing for the power and revs

Manual 130's are 3.46, It would be craaazy fun with 3.85.. I'd imagine it'd be pretty fun to drift in with 3.85 LSD .. Even the 135 feels a little slow untuned with 3.08

.. I'll sell you my 3.46 for cheap if you change your mind? Haha
Good gearing is a combination of transmission ratios and a final drive ratio. BMW does a pretty excellent job from the factory with this, and the 128i is no exception. My final drive might be less aggressive than the M3, but my individual transmission ratios are more aggressive than the M3. One needs to look at the bigger picture when modding.
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      10-13-2013, 01:16 AM   #225
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSt|G View Post
Good gearing is a combination of transmission ratios and a final drive ratio. BMW does a pretty excellent job from the factory with this, and the 128i is no exception. My final drive might be less aggressive than the M3, but my individual transmission ratios are more aggressive than the M3. One needs to look at the bigger picture when modding.
Ahhh true, different transmissions

however, looking at the 130i's ratios... compared to the 128i

they're identical...

The only difference is in the actual model of the gearbox (128i has GS6-17, 130i has GS6-37), and final drive, mine being shorter.

hence, I'd still say the 3.85 is an awesome idea (and at the very least, the 3.46 would give waaaaaay better acceleration anyway) :P

very confusing though... why did they release the lower power 128i with LONGER gearing than the higher power 130i?... did they want to make the 135i seem even faster in comparison?.. so no, seems like BMW didn't do a very good job with the 128i gearing as a 'sports car'... surely decent as a highway cruiser being quite low revs at highway speeds (mine being 2500rpm @ 63mph)
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      10-13-2013, 06:27 AM   #226
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flinchy View Post
So... you have a completely stock unmodified car? :P

when have i cheaped out? it was like $400 anyway...

there's no other 'tuning' options here in Australia haha... besides, i haven't cheaped out on anything else? i'm spending something like $10k rebuilding the engine ffs. (no budget, but it's what i'm working it out to about)

Unless you count this thread as 'cheaping out'?... Maybe i'm just not a sucker, and like getting value for money?


So i take it you think the JB4 is terrible too?... yeah the powerbox wasn't optimal, but it worked, and got rid of the throttle lag when i wasn't used to it. What would you have suggested that doesn't cost ~$1500 for 10hp?.. And that i can actually get in australia!

Uh... downgrade? .. single piston 330m+single piston 300mm.. to 6 piston 338mm+2 piston 325mm... are a downgrade?? (yes i get that as brembos go, they kinda suck, with weak pistons...) but firstly, to get it street legal, i have to put in brakes from the car the engine is coming from.. secondly, yes i realized afterwards that 1M brakes would also be ok, but much harder to find for reasonable money... but i'll be likely going to them, when i do eventually find a set (when the rears come 9/10 times with the M3 rear subframe)

Getting it engineered as road legal with 'better' aftermarket brakes (would love a stoptech set), would be near impossible with the swap on top of it... However, once the swap is done and plated as 'legal', it's somehow much easier to go a BBK then.

And, not a cheap swap for either...

Aftermarket Headunits... again, showing you don't really know everything at all.. the factory head unit and stereo is TERRIBLE, and any 'drop in' upgrade is neutered right from the start... so an alpine head unit (9887 being one of the better SQ ones, and i had it from my previous two cars) with a H701 or H800 + 3 way active seemed like fun to me .. Plus, with the nice fascia, and the fact it still has orange lights.. it actually looks pretty damn good, doesn't 'jump' out at you... the added functionality and quality is just a huge bonus on top of that.... so yes, such a bad idea upgrading to a competition grade stereo >_>, and even cheaping out on JL/ amps...

Sure, i could have kept the stock head unit and wired the new on in sorta parallel like some people do.. but it's a huge waste of effort, and a pain in the ass finding somewhere to hide it, as well as the difficulty added wiring it in.

and shit, 3 things in one post? Solid subframe bushings (not engine or transmission) add next to no NVH, but are a vast improvement over rubber or poly alternatives for feel and performance.... you realize the new M3/M4 is going solid in the subframe.. right? and the F10 M5 is solid?

Plus, there's another guy in Australia getting the M3 rear put in... with the solid bushings from turner, and a few more of us wanting to either get a set custom made or buy a few... instead of the M3 ones for the same price.

Oh, and if you also don't like the fact i have BC coilovers... people with M3's put them on their cars, i *did* get a VERY good deal on them, they're SHITLOADS better than OEM 'sport' suspension with 70k miles, and i'll be upgrading to something much fancier after the engine is in.

yeah... we're pretty clearly not on the same page, you're quite a few pages behind?
Powerbox: just reduces driver control by making a very small portion or pedal travel do all the work. Does not decrease lag at all. Makes the car worse, not better, when driven near the limit. Downgrade.

Brakes: went from a setup that fades when driven hard to one that cracks pistons and melts boots when driven hard. Downgrade.

head unit: BMW's just can't pull them off without it looking awful-- they're just the wrong size, and no amount of bezel can hide that. And, yes, I'm well aware of what's involved in integrating with stock. So, yes, I also view that as a downgrade. Makes the car look and feel cheap.

The new M3/M5 are designed around solid subframe bushings and address it via sound deadening and isolation elsewhere in the system. Solid subframe mounts make a large difference in NHV. And, yes, I'm well aware of the marginal benefits of them, as I have them in my race car. For a street car, absolutely downgrade. Why'd you start with a BMW if civility wasn't part value equation?

Suspension, since you brought it up: better than completely worn out stock isn't an option I'd consider. I'd at least want it to be better than new stock to consider putting it in, and really I'd go for something actually good.

So, yeah. As I said, I don't think we see eye to eye on things
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      10-13-2013, 06:41 AM   #227
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Obioban
Quote:
Originally Posted by flinchy View Post
So... you have a completely stock unmodified car? :P

when have i cheaped out? it was like $400 anyway...

there's no other 'tuning' options here in Australia haha... besides, i haven't cheaped out on anything else? i'm spending something like $10k rebuilding the engine ffs. (no budget, but it's what i'm working it out to about)

Unless you count this thread as 'cheaping out'?... Maybe i'm just not a sucker, and like getting value for money?


So i take it you think the JB4 is terrible too?... yeah the powerbox wasn't optimal, but it worked, and got rid of the throttle lag when i wasn't used to it. What would you have suggested that doesn't cost ~$1500 for 10hp?.. And that i can actually get in australia!

Uh... downgrade? .. single piston 330m+single piston 300mm.. to 6 piston 338mm+2 piston 325mm... are a downgrade?? (yes i get that as brembos go, they kinda suck, with weak pistons...) but firstly, to get it street legal, i have to put in brakes from the car the engine is coming from.. secondly, yes i realized afterwards that 1M brakes would also be ok, but much harder to find for reasonable money... but i'll be likely going to them, when i do eventually find a set (when the rears come 9/10 times with the M3 rear subframe)

Getting it engineered as road legal with 'better' aftermarket brakes (would love a stoptech set), would be near impossible with the swap on top of it... However, once the swap is done and plated as 'legal', it's somehow much easier to go a BBK then.

And, not a cheap swap for either...

Aftermarket Headunits... again, showing you don't really know everything at all.. the factory head unit and stereo is TERRIBLE, and any 'drop in' upgrade is neutered right from the start... so an alpine head unit (9887 being one of the better SQ ones, and i had it from my previous two cars) with a H701 or H800 + 3 way active seemed like fun to me .. Plus, with the nice fascia, and the fact it still has orange lights.. it actually looks pretty damn good, doesn't 'jump' out at you... the added functionality and quality is just a huge bonus on top of that.... so yes, such a bad idea upgrading to a competition grade stereo >_>, and even cheaping out on JL/ amps...

Sure, i could have kept the stock head unit and wired the new on in sorta parallel like some people do.. but it's a huge waste of effort, and a pain in the ass finding somewhere to hide it, as well as the difficulty added wiring it in.

and shit, 3 things in one post? Solid subframe bushings (not engine or transmission) add next to no NVH, but are a vast improvement over rubber or poly alternatives for feel and performance.... you realize the new M3/M4 is going solid in the subframe.. right? and the F10 M5 is solid?

Plus, there's another guy in Australia getting the M3 rear put in... with the solid bushings from turner, and a few more of us wanting to either get a set custom made or buy a few... instead of the M3 ones for the same price.

Oh, and if you also don't like the fact i have BC coilovers... people with M3's put them on their cars, i *did* get a VERY good deal on them, they're SHITLOADS better than OEM 'sport' suspension with 70k miles, and i'll be upgrading to something much fancier after the engine is in.

yeah... we're pretty clearly not on the same page, you're quite a few pages behind?
Powerbox: just reduces driver control by making a very small portion or pedal travel do all the work. Does not decrease lag at all. Makes the car worse, not better, when driven near the limit. Downgrade.

Brakes: went from a setup that fades when driven hard to one that cracks pistons and melts boots when driven hard. Downgrade.

head unit: BMW's just can't pull them off without it looking awful-- they're just the wrong size, and no amount of bezel can hide that. And, yes, I'm well aware of what's involved in integrating with stock. So, yes, I also view that as a downgrade. Makes the car look and feel cheap.

The new M3/M5 are designed around solid subframe bushings and address it via sound deadening and isolation elsewhere in the system. Solid subframe mounts make a large difference in NHV. And, yes, I'm well aware of the marginal benefits of them, as I have them in my race car. For a street car, absolutely downgrade. Why'd you start with a BMW if civility wasn't part value equation?

Suspension, since you brought it up: better than completely worn out stock isn't an option I'd consider. I'd at least want it to be better than new stock to consider putting it in, and really I'd go for something actually good.

So, yeah. As I said, I don't think we see eye to eye on things
Powerbox: when turned to 30%, maintains most of the pedal travel, also adds a little more power.. Plus removes the 1" of 'nothing', until your right foot gets used to it..:upgrade

Fwiw, i turned it off a while ago, and recently removed to sell lol.. Need money for the n54 fund.

Brakes: new pistons mean they won't crack when driven hard, upgrade... Regardless i'd like to go m3/1m soon, then 'proper' BBK not long after.. And you're ignoring the fact i need brakes from an n54 car to make the conversion road legal, and they came up at a convenient time (when my pads and rotors were due anyway)!

9887 actually looks pretty good, i need a black bezel, but the trim is the same colour andall, would have to see before judging!.. Regardless, it's very clearly an upgrade haha

I do agree, it CAN get much more stealth... But for me... Quality+functionality>stealth.. Or i'd integrate an ipad mini or something instead lol

I'd aLso rather a mechanized double din, but my dash is non heated seats, is missing the bottom slot the Climate control would move down to with the new fasia.. I simply don't have enough room without extensive trim swapping... Besides, it's expensive enough as is haha

Solid subframe mounts do NOT add almost any nvh, try again... Solid DIFF mounts vibrate like crazy (been in cars with both, solid subframe was fine)

And.. Civility? If i cared much about that, i'd have gotten a 3er/5er.. Or a merc... Or a lexus... I bought this for a fun sports car.. Now i'm turning it into something fairly unique .. Even compared to the 2008+ 1ers, mine feels pretty pov-pack lol... Nice, but if you'd call them spartan, mine is .. Yeah, far worse.... Regardless, PLENTY of people strip out bmw's and street drive.. Or at least track car them, what's wrong with that??

Plus, I used to have to do 200-250km a day, now i have to do 50km at most, i fun>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>comfort/nice.

Suspension: better than a 135i with 50,000km, better than one with 40,000km, that i've tested..

So yeah, upgrade from brand new, try again!

I mean, maybe you're ridiculously wealthy and can do it all 100% as best as it gets at the start, but some people have more specific goals
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      10-13-2013, 08:01 AM   #228
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flinchy View Post
Ahhh true, different transmissions

however, looking at the 130i's ratios... compared to the 128i

they're identical...

The only difference is in the actual model of the gearbox (128i has GS6-17, 130i has GS6-37), and final drive, mine being shorter.

hence, I'd still say the 3.85 is an awesome idea (and at the very least, the 3.46 would give waaaaaay better acceleration anyway) :P

very confusing though... why did they release the lower power 128i with LONGER gearing than the higher power 130i?... did they want to make the 135i seem even faster in comparison?.. so no, seems like BMW didn't do a very good job with the 128i gearing as a 'sports car'... surely decent as a highway cruiser being quite low revs at highway speeds (mine being 2500rpm @ 63mph)
Totally agree with you! I have always thought what is the point of having 6 speeds (or whatever the number is) if you dont use them all, the 128 reaches top speed little after changing from 5th to 6th and at about 5.5K rpm, the 130i though, it reaches max speed at max power rpm point, so it is a true 6 speeder, and it can actually almost go all the way in 6th to the red line if limiter is removed.

The 128 NEVER will run like a 130i for several reasons, this is one of them, unless of course the owner swaps all missing bits.

128i hits 100 mph in 3rd, the 130i is already back in the power band in 4th at 100mph.

I do hate long gearing! and back to the point of the TRW bits, I just bought them, will share pics onces I have them. I do believe the only diff is the sanded down //M logo, which is just nothing to worry about since those things live in the filth all the time anyway

Last edited by maupineda; 10-13-2013 at 08:15 AM..
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      10-13-2013, 08:02 AM   #229
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I like how this thread started about facts on manufacturing and parts quality and has degraded into attempts at invalidating forum members statements based on their cars modifications.

Thanks for all the info on the TRW arms, and their quality certifications as a company. I think the initial questions have been answered thoroughly.
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      10-13-2013, 04:44 PM   #230
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maupineda View Post
Totally agree with you! I have always thought what is the point of having 6 speeds (or whatever the number is) if you dont use them all, the 128 reaches top speed little after changing from 5th to 6th and at about 5.5K rpm, the 130i though, it reaches max speed at max power rpm point, so it is a true 6 speeder, and it can actually almost go all the way in 6th to the red line if limiter is removed.

The 128 NEVER will run like a 130i for several reasons, this is one of them, unless of course the owner swaps all missing bits.

128i hits 100 mph in 3rd, the 130i is already back in the power band in 4th at 100mph.

I do hate long gearing! and back to the point of the TRW bits, I just bought them, will share pics onces I have them. I do believe the only diff is the sanded down //M logo, which is just nothing to worry about since those things live in the filth all the time anyway
Well, 250km/h (limiter) in a 130i is 6250RPM in 6th gear

But yes, given enough road delimited, 280km/h is 7000rpm

Long gearing is great if you have a peaky/midrange powerband, and obviously you can have a WAY too short gearing... but high powerband, high enough revs, good fun :P

ALways good to get more pics of the arms, getting the thread back on topic!
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      10-16-2013, 02:53 AM   #231
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I was done with this debate quite a while ago...so I'll just go on record as having the TRW part installed on my car for the last 7K miles...no issues to report. I can take pics tomorrow if anyone wants to see how they're holding up.
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      10-17-2013, 04:26 PM   #232
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveAZ View Post
I was done with this debate quite a while ago...so I'll just go on record as having the TRW part installed on my car for the last 7K miles...no issues to report. I can take pics tomorrow if anyone wants to see how they're holding up.
I am planning on doing the TRW M3 bits as well. Glad to hear they are holding up!
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      10-17-2013, 06:47 PM   #233
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steve, that would be awesome. They are next on my order list (full M3 bits going on with new tires and a proper alignment to save dime).
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      10-18-2013, 01:59 AM   #234
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Just got them yesterday looks ok grinded M... oh well our community dont love M logos on non M cars anyway JK
There was a thread after install how to adjust steering rods to be able to drive car to wheel alignment shop anybody can find this? Ive tried but no luck...
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      10-18-2013, 06:05 AM   #235
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I got mine too, they come nicely packaged and with the //M grinded off. but who cares, this is a non appearance item anyways. The bushings by hand are rock solid, whereas the regular ones can be moved around with your hand. They even have green dots which means they have passed quality inspections and the reason TRW tears the logo is for branding and commercial, not quality issues.

it is the genuine item and real deal, even the part numbers match those of the //M branded item.
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      10-18-2013, 08:43 PM   #236
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShocknAwe View Post
steve, that would be awesome. They are next on my order list (full M3 bits going on with new tires and a proper alignment to save dime).
Sorry...ended up working on something else...I'll get some pics.

On a side not...doing the rear m3 bits in the next week or two (depending on when things arrive) and they're also TRW. Also doing an lsd, and will probably do the differential bushings as well since I'll be in there.

I had put a set of spacers (10mm) on the rear and the first hard corner I thought "wtf?" As the rear felt different and then remembered, I just changed the geometry and placed more strain on the suspension, so hopefully this will pacify me in the meantime. Also putting in n55 mids w/y pipe at the same time so I'll have some tuning to do.

Will still be on stock m springs and dampers though...gotta wait a bit and recover the funds before ordering ohlins r&t...they're not cheap!
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      10-18-2013, 10:39 PM   #237
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RimasRS View Post
Just got them yesterday looks ok grinded M... oh well our community dont love M logos on non M cars anyway JK
There was a thread after install how to adjust steering rods to be able to drive car to wheel alignment shop anybody can find this? Ive tried but no luck...
Before driving the car, adjust the alignment yourself. Adding the M3 bits results in severe toe in. To get the toe back to where it was before you added the M3 bits, adjust both tie rods by exactly 3.5 turns (longer). Mark the tie rod so you can count the rotations, and make sure you start and finish with the tie rod outer end centered in its range of travel.

from #5:

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...4#post12391804
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      10-19-2013, 02:35 AM   #238
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fe1rx View Post
Before driving the car, adjust the alignment yourself. Adding the M3 bits results in severe toe in. To get the toe back to where it was before you added the M3 bits, adjust both tie rods by exactly 3.5 turns (longer). Mark the tie rod so you can count the rotations, and make sure you start and finish with the tie rod outer end centered in its range of travel.

from #5:

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...4#post12391804
Thank You that's what I was looking for....
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      10-24-2013, 07:47 AM   #239
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Is it possible to get the Rear guide rods 33322283547 (left)/33322283548 (right) and Rear upper links/wishbones 33322283545 (left)/33322283546 (right) from TRW?

Last edited by Cozy; 10-24-2013 at 08:22 AM..
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      10-24-2013, 09:04 AM   #240
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cozy View Post
Is it possible to get the Rear guide rods 33322283547 (left)/33322283548 (right) and Rear upper links/wishbones 33322283545 (left)/33322283546 (right) from TRW?
33322283547 - Yes - LINK
33322283548 - Yes - LINK
33322283545 - Yes - LINK
33322283546 - Yes - LINK

Or a simpler option, our TRW M3 rear upgrade kit, LINK.

-James
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      11-02-2013, 02:27 PM   #241
crex
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Do you sell the e92 m3 front swaybar as well? I couldn't find it on your site.
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      11-03-2013, 07:26 PM   #242
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ECSTuning View Post
... Or a simpler option, our TRW M3 rear upgrade kit, LINK.
-James
Saved in my spring 2014 wish list, with a few other goodies ...
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2011 X3 35i with M pack + 2011 135i w/6SPMT | 255 square tire setup | Quaife 3.46 LSD | Diff lock down bracket | Bilstein B8+Swift SpecR springs+H&R FSB | CDV delete | BMS Oil Tstat bypass | ER FMIC & CP | N54Tuning DP | GC Street Camber Plates | M3 FCA +guide rods+RSFB's+Tranny mounts | Manzo toe arms | Cobb Stg2 agressive tune | Hawk DTC70 brake pads | RB SS brake pistons | Goodridge SS brake lines | Custom brake cooling ducts
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