BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

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      01-04-2012, 12:09 PM   #1
ken1137
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Fumoto Oil Drain Valve

Anyone try this yet? I was trying to think of a new drain valve for the N54 and I see this from ECS...looks pretty good.

http://www.ecstuning.com/News/BMW_Fu...il_Drain_Valve

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      01-04-2012, 12:26 PM   #2
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I prefer to use the UUC magnetic drain plug. It really picks up a lot of metal that flaots around the engine. Have a look at my photos here(at the bottom of the page)...

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...nge+diy&page=3


Btw... if your worried about oil spilling out under the belly pan when changing your oil... do what I do... I took a "tetra package"(boxed ice tea) and cut the box to make a little baffle to deflect any oil when it shoots out of the oil sump - when you remove the drain plug. Works like a charm.
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      01-04-2012, 12:50 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
I prefer to use the UUC magnetic drain plug. It really picks up a lot of metal that flaots around the engine. Have a look at my photos here(at the bottom of the page)...

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...nge+diy&page=3


Btw... if your worried about oil spilling out under the belly pan when changing your oil... do what I do... I took a "tetra package"(boxed ice tea) and cut the box to make a little baffle to deflect anu oil when it shoots out of the oil sump - when you remove the drain plug. Works like a charm.
Yep, already bought the magnetic drain plug per your thread
Yeah, I hate oil spills and the N54 design doesn't make it easy. Good idea...will do with the box cut out, or I will buy the form a funnel and do the same. Thx.
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      01-05-2012, 09:21 AM   #4
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Does the 1-series have a magnet in the oil pan like some cars do? I know the auto transmissions do, but not sure about the oil pans. The Fumoto valve is fairly popular, not necessarily because ease of use, but rather because it prevents the possibility of stripping the oil pan threads from repeated oil changes.
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      01-05-2012, 10:11 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AW128i View Post
Does the 1-series have a magnet in the oil pan like some cars do? I know the auto transmissions do, but not sure about the oil pans. The Fumoto valve is fairly popular, not necessarily because ease of use, but rather because it prevents the possibility of stripping the oil pan threads from repeated oil changes.
Nope...so I just changed to the magnetic drain plug (per Dackelone's thread). One problem solved, so now just have to control the oil spillage. Thought the Fumoto was a good idea, but it wont help with the metal particles.
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      01-14-2012, 07:39 AM   #6
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I always use aluminum foil to protect the undertray and make a clean path for the oil to drain into the pan. Works pretty well.
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      01-14-2012, 09:56 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ken1137 View Post
Nope...so I just changed to the magnetic drain plug (per Dackelone's thread). One problem solved, so now just have to control the oil spillage. Thought the Fumoto was a good idea, but it wont help with the metal particles.

I use to stuff some old rags between the inside of the belly pan and the engine/oil pan area. But I always made a mess. No matter how hard I tried I ended up with some oil insde the belly pan.

Now I have my routine down pat with my homemade "oil deflector". I made it from an old tetra box of IceTea(square box). I just jam my custom IceTea box up in the belly pan... and when the oil comes out it gets deflected down into my oil catch pan.


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Also...

Griot's Garage sells a Form-A-Funnel® Draining Tool...

http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/form-a-funnel.do
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      01-14-2012, 11:25 AM   #8
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ok...I see what you mean now. Thx...I went ahead and bought the form a funnel so we'll see how clean I can keep the oil change
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      01-15-2012, 02:35 PM   #9
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The fumoto valve is great to keep things mess free....

You can do without the magnetic plug. Buy a strong magnet and on the steel pans you can just stick it to the pan near the plug, when you drain the oil just remove the plug and what was stuck inside the pan will release and drain with the oil. On aluminum pans you can use a dab of epoxy and permanantly mount it there. To clean it, every couple oil changes you can pop it off of there and it will all drain with the oil still.
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      01-15-2012, 06:37 PM   #10
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I put one of the Fumoto quarter turn ball valve drain plugs on my Suzuki SUV several years ago. It's drain plug goes horizontal - not at an angle like the 135i but horizontal. My first oil change was a disaster when I missed the pan initially and then again later when most of the oil was out. So I put in one of these drain plugs that has a nipple for a piece of clear plastic hose on the outlet. I drop the hose into the pan and move the lever. The opening is smaller so I go do something else for awhile. Works great.

But if you put a valve like this on a car with a near vertical drain plug you will loose ground clearance. They are long. You also need enough clearance around the drain plug to rotate it. It is somewhat wide. I'm not sure your bimmers are a good application for this in my opinion. It would allow you to avoid the mess but if your drain plug contacted the pavement it could damage the drain plug or possibly even the engine.

Jim
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      01-15-2012, 07:05 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimD View Post
...But if you put a valve like this on a car with a near vertical drain plug you will loose ground clearance. They are long. You also need enough clearance around the drain plug to rotate it. It is somewhat wide. I'm not sure your bimmers are a good application for this in my opinion. It would allow you to avoid the mess but if your drain plug contacted the pavement it could damage the drain plug or possibly even the engine.

Jim

Hi Jim,


FYI...

128i = vertical oil drain plug (ie bottom of the oil pan). 8mm(?) hex socket
135i = (near) horizontal oil drain plug. 17mm bolt.


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      01-16-2012, 06:33 AM   #12
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Dack,

I did not go back and look at the oil change thread in the DIY section but my recollection is the drain plug on the N54 (and presumably N55) sits at around a 45 degree angle. Anything less than horizontal means reduced ground clearance with a long drain plug. Maybe there is something substantial hanging down that would prevent damage to a lower drain plug but I can't think of anything. The plastic under-the-engine pan wouldn't be much protection.

The body of the drain plug is brass. It is probably better it is not harder, it might mean the drain plug would give before the engine.

I like mine. I am just not as sure it works for the N54.

Jim
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      01-16-2012, 12:33 PM   #13
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I went and looked at the 135i oil change DIYs and the drain plug appears to be near horizontal as Dack suggests. I am still not sure there is space to rotate a wide plug nor am I sure there is room for it's length. But it might work. If you can install one with the nipple for a piece of clear tubing you can eliminate a cause for spilling oil. It also eliminates the need for tools to drain the oil. The ball valve turns easily with one finger.

The drain plug in at least my 128i (N52) is 17mm. Apparently that is like the N54 but my drain plug is vertical.

Jim
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      05-06-2012, 05:57 PM   #14
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Photo on 135i

FYI. On the 135i, the opening is horizontal on the oil pan.

You will need the extension with the fumoto valve since the opening is recessed into the pan. Opening and closing is fairly simple. Just attach a tube to the end and with one finger, lift the lever and rotate. You can't see the lever in the attached photo because it actually points vertically up.
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      05-06-2012, 07:28 PM   #15
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Looks good. On my zuk I started with a hose that was, in retrospect, too long. It's cheap and I just bought too much. I gradually shortened it to the point that it is just long enough to direct the oil down to the drain pan. When the hot oil goes through it it softens making the oil go more down. I just tuck it up when done. I have a frame hole to go into. On your 135i I think it would just put it inside the underpan and put the trap door back.

I've found it easy to move the little lever even several years and tens of thousands of miles after installation.

Jim
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      05-06-2012, 07:34 PM   #16
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I considered the Fumoto, but I ended up with the ECS magnetic one on my car instead.
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