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08-03-2015, 10:20 AM | #1 |
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Aftermarket/Larger Radiator - How do you deal with EAC Sensor (Prem-Air Sensor)?
Hey all, so I'm sure some of you have installed larger radiators for track use and you ended up with a check engine due to the EAC/PremAir Ozone sensor on the radiator not being there any more.
From what I read it is hard/close to impossible to transfer a sensor to another radiator and even then it doesn't usually work right. Is there a way to code it out in one of the BMW software - what are they ... INPA and what not? I'm thinking of using an Arduino and programming a simulator of some sort, although I can't find enough info on how it works and it says it is not a simple temp sensor, it actually communicates with the ECU and has an identifier of some sort. I just keep thinking there has to be a way to take care of this for track use. There is no reason the light should be on. You need to know when something important actually breaks while on the track, so if the light is on all the time, there is no way to know ... Someone will come up with a solution to this, I know I will definitely work on it but if anyone has info please share. I haven't been able to find anything, for BMW, VW, Mercedes, etc ... |
08-15-2015, 10:14 PM | #2 |
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Can anyone comment on this? Did not even know that this was an issue.
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09-11-2015, 12:41 PM | #3 |
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I was just looking at upgrading my radiator in my 128i due to limp mode on track. If anyone has some more info on this it would be appreciated!
Maybe it's covered on the E90 forums? |
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09-11-2015, 03:17 PM | #4 |
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I'll be installing a CSF racing radiator in my 135i next week. I'll let you know if anything pops up.
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09-28-2015, 02:11 PM | #5 |
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Update: Had no issues installing the CSF racing radiator. Unsure about the sensor that you're referencing. Is your car an Auto/DCT? Maybe it's different than my manual-trans car.
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Streets of Willow: 1:27.7 CW 11/15/15; 1:29.5 CCW 8/15/15 |||| Autoclub Speedway ROVAL (CCW): 1.52.6 - 12/2/17
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09-28-2015, 07:06 PM | #6 |
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Considering either the PPK2 auxiliary water cooler or the CSF radiator. Please update (or post a new thread, maybe with a review if you can?) when you have results on any temperature drop data at the track.
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09-28-2015, 07:08 PM | #7 | |
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Have one track day on it thus far, want to do a bit more testing before consolidating my findings. Stay tuned.
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10-06-2015, 06:40 AM | #8 | |
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Drives: 2010 128i
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There was a guy running a 128i a few years back that kept going into limp mode and he discovered that an overactive e-diff made his car think the brakes were overheating (it doesn't actually measure temps, but guesses based on use), which threw the car into limp mode in order to save the brakes. So I wouldn't assume it was an engine cooling issue, unless you've pulled the codes and confirmed. In any case, both the e-diff and the "brake protection mode" can be coded off.
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10-07-2015, 12:55 PM | #9 | |
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Although it's fairly infrequent, the e-diff can be overly active and intrusive at times. Car has an LSD so it'd be great to code that off. Did not know that was possible! |
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10-07-2015, 03:54 PM | #10 | |
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Drives: 2010 128i
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10-07-2015, 07:05 PM | #12 | |
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Drives: 2010 128i
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I haven't done it yet on my car beacsue I'm still on the stock open diff, but I was poking around the DSC module and saw parameters for DIFF_LOCK and E89_FLR; both were set to aktiv and should be set to nicht_aktiv instead. The 1st is the e-diff; FLR is the power reduction to prevent brake overheating. |
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10-08-2015, 11:38 AM | #13 | |
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On the stock diff, I guess you can still test and verify if the coding worked by trying a standing burnout. If the e-diff is active, even the slightest touch of the brakes will quickly end any burnout attempt. |
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10-14-2015, 01:47 PM | #14 | |
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Yes, after reviewing the codes with Carly (no actual check engine light came up) it seems the brakes were causing limp mode. Not sure what to do about this other than disable this "feature" via NSCexpert as others have suggested... I was running with TC on btw. It was my second time on track and a few cars spun out right in front of me throughout the day so I was hesitant to turn DSC all the way off... My oil and coolant temps were too hot too though. Not hot enough for limp mode, but my oil was hot enough for the computer to pull power. I hit 140c. From what I've read on the E90 forums, the threshold for oil is: 270F-300F = power loss and 300F+ = Limp mode? I would be willing to invest in a better radiator if the price was reasonable, but nothing is available for the auto! |
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11-15-2015, 08:54 PM | #15 |
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01-04-2016, 08:13 AM | #18 |
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Basically you have to buy a radiator with a sensor already on it.
No way around it, Removing existing sensor is very very tricky and just as tricky to mount on the new rad and even then the new one doesn't have the special coating (forget the name), so the sensor will complain that the coating has worn off |
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01-04-2016, 08:52 AM | #19 |
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So what brand did you buy that did not come with the sensor?
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01-04-2016, 01:00 PM | #21 |
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Guessing the sensor may be for specific models only. My 6MT US-spec 135i didn't have anything like that.
Test results/write-up on the CSF Racing Radiator that I use: http://oppositelock.kinja.com/my-tho...ato-1745809742
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Streets of Willow: 1:27.7 CW 11/15/15; 1:29.5 CCW 8/15/15 |||| Autoclub Speedway ROVAL (CCW): 1.52.6 - 12/2/17
Willow Springs - Big Willow (CW): 1:35.8 - 3/31/18 |||| Buttonwillow #13 (CW): 1:59.3 1/27/18 https://www.facebook.com/JakeStumphRacing |||| http://www.youtube.com/user/RaceMeMZ3 |
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01-04-2016, 01:38 PM | #22 |
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Thanks for the link.
Not sure about the sensor being different beteween manual and auto/dct. But I do know the auto/dct have a heat exchanger for the transmission, so the radiator would need to include connections for that. |
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